CHAPTER X.
BUFFALO--THE NIAGARA FALLS--A FROST--ROCHESTER TO THE RESCUE OF BUFFALO--CLEVELAND--I MEET JONATHAN--PHANTASMAGORIA.
_Buffalo, January 14._
This town is situated twenty-seven miles from Niagara Falls. The Americans say that the Buffalo people can hear the noise of the water-fall quite distinctly. I am quite prepared to believe it. However, an hour"s journey by rail and then a quarter of an hour"s sleigh ride will take you from Buffalo within sight of this, perhaps the grandest piece of scenery in the world. Words cannot describe it. You spend a couple of hours visiting every point of view. You are nailed, as it were, to the ground, feeling like a pigmy, awestruck in the presence of nature at her grandest. The snow was falling thickly, and though it made the view less clear, it added to the grandeur of the scene.
I went down by the cable car to a level with the rapids and the place where poor Captain Webb was last seen alive; a presumptuous pigmy, he, to dare such waters as these. His widow keeps a little bazaar near the falls and sells souvenirs to the visitors.
It was most thrilling to stand within touching distance of that great torrent of water, called the Niagara Falls, in distinction to the Horseshoe Falls, to hear the roar of it as it fell. The idea of force it gives one is tremendous. You stand and wonder how many ages it has been roaring on, what eyes besides your own have gazed awestruck at its mighty rushing, and wonder if the pigmies will ever do what they say they will; one day make those columns of water their servants to turn wheels at their bidding.
[Ill.u.s.tration: SHOOTING THE RAPIDS.]
We crossed the bridge over to the Canadian side, and there we had the whole grand panorama before our eyes.
It appears that it is quite a feasible thing to run the rapids in a barrel. Girls have done it, and it may become the fashionable sport for American girls in the near future. It has been safely accomplished plenty of times by young fellows up for an exciting day"s sport.
On the Canadian sh.o.r.e was a pretty villa where Princess Louise stayed while she painted the scene. Some of the pretty houses were fringed all round the roofs and balconies in the loveliest way, with icicles a yard long, and loaded with snow. They looked most beautiful.
On the way back we called at Prospect House, a charming hotel which I hope, if ever I go near Buffalo again, I shall put up at for a day or two, to see the neighborhood well.
Two years ago I was lucky enough to witness a most curious sight. The water was frozen under the falls, and a natural bridge, formed by the ice, was being used by venturesome people to cross the Niagara River on.
This occurs very seldom.
I have had a fizzle to-night. I almost expected it. In a hall that could easily have accommodated fifteen hundred people, I lectured to an audience of about three hundred. Fortunately they proved so intelligent, warm, and appreciative that I did not feel at all depressed; but my impresario did. However, he congratulated me on having been able to do justice to the _causerie_, as if I had had a b.u.mper house.
I must own that it is much easier to be a tragedian than a light comedian before a $200 house.
_Cleveland, O., January 15._
The weather is so bad that I shall be unable to see anything of this city, which, people tell me, is very beautiful.
On arriving at the Weddell House, I met a New York friend.
"Well," said he, "how are you getting on? Where do you come from?"
"From Buffalo," said I, pulling a long face.
"What is the matter? Don"t you like the Buffalo people?"
"Yes; I liked those I saw. I should have liked to extend my love to a larger number. I had a fizzle; about three hundred people. Perhaps I drew all the brain of Buffalo."
"How many people do you say you had in the hall?" said my friend.
"About three hundred."
"Then you must have drawn a good many people from Rochester, I should think," said he quite solemnly.
In reading the Buffalo newspapers this morning, I noticed favorable criticisms of my lecture; but while my English was praised, so far as the language went, severe comments were pa.s.sed on my p.r.o.nunciation. In England, where the English language is spoken with a decent p.r.o.nunciation, I never once read a condemnation of my p.r.o.nunciation of the English language.
I will not appear again in Buffalo until I feel much improved.
[Ill.u.s.tration: "GOING TO PITTSBURG, I GUESS."]
_En route to Pittsburg, January 16._
The American railway stations have special waiting rooms for ladies--not, as in England, places furnished with looking-gla.s.ses, where they can go and arrange their bonnets, etc. No, no. Places where they can wait for the trains, protected against the contamination of man, and where they are spared the sight of that eternal little round piece of furniture with which the floors of the whole of the United States are dotted.
At Cleveland Station, this morning, I met Jonathan, such as he is represented in the comic papers of the world. A man of sixty, with long straight white hair falling over his shoulders; no mustache, long imperial beard, a razor-blade-shaped nose, small keen eyes, and high prominent cheek-bones, the whole smoking the traditional cigar; the Anglo-Saxon indianized--Jonathan. If he had had a long swallow-tail coat on, a waistcoat ornamented with stars, and trowsers with stripes, he might have sat for the cartoons of _Puck_ or _Judge_.
In the car, Jonathan came and sat opposite me. A few minutes after the train had started, he said:
"Going to Pittsburg, I guess."
"Yes," I replied.
"To lecture?"
"Oh, you know I lecture?"
"Why, certainly; I heard you in Boston ten days ago."
He offered me a cigar, told me his name--I mean his three names--what he did, how much he earned, where he lived, how many children he had; he read me a poem of his own composition, invited me to go and see him, and entertained me for three hours and a half, telling me the history of his life, etc. Indeed, it was Jonathan.
All the Americans I have met have written a poem (p.r.o.nounced _pome_).
Now I am not generalizing. I do not say that all the Americans have written a poem, I say _all the Americans I have met_.
_Pittsburg (same day later)._
I lecture here to-night under the auspices of the Press Club of the town. The president of the club came to meet me at the station, in order to show me something of the town.
I like Pittsburg very much. From the top of the hill, which you reach in a couple of minutes by the cable car, there is a most beautiful sight to contemplate: one never to be forgotten.
On our way to the hotel, my kind friend took me to a fire station, and asked the man in command of the place to go through the performance of a fire-call for my own edification.