DEAR SIR,--Your communication of the 20th October, 1844, was duly received, and a press of business has delayed my reply till now.
In relation to the subject of inquiry contained in your letter (being the natural resources of Oregon), I can truly say that I entertain a very high opinion of the great and decided advantages bestowed by nature upon this most interesting and beautiful portion of our globe.
Our facilities for commercial enterprise are most decided, as the rapidly increasing commerce of the great Pacific lies at our very door.
The climate of this country is more _equable_, subject to fewer extremes than any, perhaps, in the world. I have been here about one year, and have found it most delightful, and I can truly say that it is the most healthy country I have ever lived in. During the present year, I have scarcely heard of a case of fever in the whole country. The timber of Oregon is indeed most superior, and const.i.tutes a large portion of its wealth; and we have not only the tallest, finest timber in the world, but we have everywhere water power to any desirable extent, suitable for propelling all kinds of machinery.
The soil of this country is most excellent, and can be prepared and cultivated with less labor than that of any other country. Wheat is the great staple of the world, and as a wheat-growing country, this ranks in the very first cla.s.s. The crop is not only of the _best quality, but is always large, and there is no such occurrence as a failure of the wheat crop_. For potatoes, melons, turnips, and garden vegetables generally, our soil is superior. Indian corn does not succeed well, and in fact we have no use for it, as our cattle live all the year upon the natural pastures of the country. Since I have been here, I have been myself engaged in farming occupations, and I have been astonished at the very small amount of labor required to cultivate a farm. Potatoes are planted, and nothing more is done to them until they are ready for digging, when they are not dug, but generally turned up with the plow.
Peas are sown broadcast, like wheat, and are neither staked nor cultivated, and produce in great abundance. Plowing is done here from the month of September until July, and wheat is sown from October to May, and potatoes are planted in March, April, and May. A team of two horses, with a very light, easy plow, can break prairie land, but a team of two yoke of oxen is most generally used. I am informed that timothy, clover, and blue gra.s.s all grow well in the soil of Oregon. For pasturage this country is pre-eminent. Horses, cattle, and sheep require neither feed nor shelter, and keep fat all the year round. Hogs are raised here with partial feeding, and pork is generally fattened upon wheat, and finer pork I never saw anywhere.
I omitted to mention in its appropriate place that our harvesting commences about the 20th of July, and continues throughout the month of August; and during the present year we had no rain from about the 1st of July to the 15th of October, so that we had the finest weather for saving our crops imaginable.
One thing that strikes the beholder of this country with greatest force, is the unsurpa.s.sable beauty of its scenery. We have snow-clad mountains, beautiful valleys, pure, rapid streams running over pebbly beds, with numerous cascades and waterfalls, and trees of superior grandeur and beauty.
The government of Oregon has grown up from necessity; and perhaps no new organization has been adopted and sustained with so much unanimity and good order. Every circ.u.mstance has tended to strengthen it. I attended the last term of the Circuit Courts in most of the counties, and I found great respect shown to judicial authority everywhere, and did not see a _solitary drunken juryman, or witness, or spectator_. So much industry, good order, and sobriety, I have never observed in any community. Our population seem to be exceedingly enterprising, and is making rapid progress to comfort and wealth. As yet, we have had no murders, no robberies, thefts, or felonies of any kind, except one a.s.sault with intent to kill. Our grand juries have exhibited very laudable a.s.siduity in discharging their duties, and criminals here will meet with certain and prompt punishment.
Nature has displayed here her most magnificent powers, and our country has its full share of natural advantages. Our prospects are most brilliant. If we can keep out intoxication, _and we will do it_, half a century will not roll away before there will exist in Oregon one of the most industrious, virtuous, free, and commercial nations in the world.
I have already protracted this communication beyond its appropriate length, and will now close it by subscribing myself,
Yours, etc.,
PETER H. BURNETT.
Dr. E. WHITE.
WALLAMET, OREGON, April 4, 1845.
SIR,--I have the honor and happiness of informing you, and through you, if it be your pleasure, the American public, that measures have been taken by myself and the citizens in this colony, to open a wagon route through from the upper part of this valley, the present season, directly to Fort Hall, or Green River; the pilot returning and escorting the immigrants through the much shorter, easier, and every way more advantageous route. The immigrants will thereby be enabled to bring with them their herds, wagons, and all their effects at once directly into the heart of the Wallamet Valley; saving thereby an immense amount of toil, hardship, and suffering, saying nothing of the necessary destruction and increased danger of the other route.
Your humble and obedient servant, E. WHITE, Sub-Agent Indian Affairs, W. R. M.
The messenger is leaving.
OREGON CITY, March 4, 1845.
_Dr. E. White:_
SIR,--In compliance with the request you made to me, that I should notice and communicate to you whatever I might deem of interest during my visit, in your employ, to the various Indian tribes east of the Cascade Mountains, bearing to them presents with admonitions and advice from you in order to secure the safety and peace of the immigrants in their pa.s.sage through their country, the following is submitted:--
1. _The Nez Perces_.--Your acquaintance with this promising people renders it unnecessary for me to speak of their general character. I would simply remark, that their anxieties to become a civilized and literary nation have suffered no abatement since I left them in March last, after pa.s.sing the winter with them most pleasantly, as teacher, in the employ of Rev. H. H. Spalding, missionary. Ellis, with most of the chiefs, was absent, having gone to meet the immigrants, then in the vicinity of Fort Boise, with a view to furnish them provisions, and trade them horses for cattle. You are aware of their eagerness to obtain domestic stock with all farming utensils, which I regard as one of the most interesting facts connected with Indian affairs west of the Rocky Mountains. Avarice is doubtless the ruling pa.s.sion of most Indians, and forms a capital upon which those engaged in Indian affairs may operate for good or evil. With the Nez Perces, it has thus far been turned to good account, effecting results as beneficial to the whites and more salutary to the natives themselves, on this side the mountains, than has been effected on the other side by military force. Such is the prevalence of this "love of gain" among the Indians, that all efforts to control them by motives held out to any other pa.s.sion, must prove ineffectual, at least, while we are unable to awe them by martial parade.
The individual difficulties existing between James, Timothy, and others, in relation to their claims on the valley, about the Clearwater Mission, are, for the time, put to rest, by the promise that you will visit them soon, and have the matter properly adjusted. Their crops this year have been abundant, and they have furnished the immigrants large supplies of provisions, which, I am happy to say, were bartered in good faith, and the trade conducted with much amity and good feeling on both sides, while I have to regret that Ellis and his people were unable to procure cattle to any extent worthy of notice. The presents were received, and the advice heard with a most respectful attention.
2. _The Cayuses_ are also manifesting a spirit of enterprise, highly commendable. They too, have raised much grain and potatoes, and are trading freely with the immigrants. A number of their chiefs and princ.i.p.al men were absent at the time, having gone, in company with a party of Wallawallas, to California, with horses to trade for cattle.
They have since returned, and I sincerely regret to learn the failure of this, their first expedition of the kind. The Spaniards and other whites treated them badly; murdered one of the most promising young men of the Wallawallas, and the party returned without effecting the object of their trip. What influence this affair will have upon the conduct of these two tribes in reference to the next immigration pa.s.sing through their countries, time alone must determine.
The lawless bands along the river, from Fort Wallawalla to the Dalles, are still troublesome to the immigrants; and the immigrants are still very imprudent in breaking off into small parties, just when they should remain united. The Indians are tempted by the unguarded and defenseless state of the immigrants, and avail themselves of the opportunity to gratify their cupidity. Here allow me to suggest a thought. These robbers furnish us a true miniature likeness of the whole Indian population, whenever they fail to obtain such things as they wish in exchange for such as they have to give. These are robbers now, because they have nothing to give; all others will be robbers when, with what they have to give, they can not procure what they wish. I am satisfied of the correctness of this conclusion, from all that I have witnessed of Indian character, even among the praiseworthy Nez Perces. And should the government of the United States withhold her protection from her subjects in Oregon, they will be under the necessity of entering into treaty stipulations with the Indians, in violation of the laws of the United States, as preferable to a resort to force of arms. Hitherto, the immigrants have had no serious difficulty in pa.s.sing through the territory of these tribes; but that their pa.s.sage is becoming more and more a subject of interest to the Indians, is abundantly manifest. They collect about the road from every part of the country, and have looked on with amazement; but the novelty of the scene is fast losing its power to hold in check their baser pa.s.sions. The next immigration will, in all probability, call forth developments of Indian character, which have been almost denied an existence among these people. Indeed, sir, had you not taken the precaution to conciliate their good feelings and friendship toward the whites, just at the time they were meeting each other, it is to be doubted whether there had not been some serious difficulties. Individuals on both sides have been mutually provoked and exasperated during the pa.s.sage of each immigration, and these cases are constantly multiplying. Much prudence is required on the part of the whites, and, unfortunately, they have very little by the time they reach the Columbia Valley. Some of the late immigrants, losing their horses, and very naturally supposing them stolen by the Indians, went to the bands of horses owned by the Indians and took as many as they wished.
You are too well acquainted with Indians to suppose that such a course can be persisted in without producing serious results. I am aware that this is looking at the dark side; but sir, perhaps it is wisdom to look at that side when it is more than half turned toward us, if, by looking, we can find some way to turn it back again. I look to Ellis, and the speedy action of the general government of the United States, as the brightest features in the prospect now before us. Your knowledge of my situation and circ.u.mstances render any apology unnecessary for this imperfect scroll.
I remain, your humble servant, H. A. G. LEE.
Dr. E. WHITE, Sub-Agent Indian affairs, W. R. M.
OREGON TERRITORY, July 8, 1845.
_To the Hon. the Secretary of the War Department:_
DEAR SIR,--I beg leave, most respectfully, to submit a few thoughts for your consideration, relative to the course pursued by Dr. E. White, our late Indian sub-agent, now on the eve of leaving us. I would not venture to intrude upon your time, but for the reason that I am aware that Dr.
White leaves with an anxious and laboring mind, in view of the state of his finances, fearing, perhaps, a proper consideration might not be given to the situation and circ.u.mstances in which he has been placed in this isolated portion of our wide domain. I consider it but justice to Dr. White, to say, having crossed the mountains with him, that he exerted himself, and did much toward raising the first party that were of a sufficient number to travel independent of the trading companies to the mountains; thereby opening the way, and making the first track to Oregon; and since his arrival, by his promptness, decision, and firmness, we have been saved from the baneful influence and degradation of ardent spirits here, in our infant colony; and by his kind, conciliatory measures, active charity, and judicious conduct among the Indians, he has done much for them, and probably, in several instances, fended off the arrow of savage warfare.
The indefatigable perseverance, expense, and time Dr. White has been at in ferreting out a road across the Cascade Mountains,[11] which will intersect the old wagon road in the vicinity of Fort Hall, cutting off some two or three hundred miles of the worst portion of the road, entirely avoiding the Columbia River, and the dangers incident to these waters, by an inexperienced, worn-out, and fatigued immigration. By this new route, the immigrants will find themselves greatly relieved, and saved from immense trouble, as they will as readily reach the head of the Wallamet settlement, as they would, by the old, reach Wallamet; avoiding the difficulties and dangers of the Snake and Columbia rivers.
In conclusion, allow me to observe that the sacrifice one is obliged to make in funds of this country, to render them specie, or available drafts, is immense; and it is almost impossible to do it at all, to any amount. Consequently, the doctor finds himself very much embarra.s.sed in his financial concerns, being obliged to draft on his government for his entire expenditures in his official capacity. Be pleased to accept, etc., my dear sir,
While I remain yours, With due regard and great respect,
A. LAWRENCE LOVEJOY.
[Footnote 11] The Cascade ridge of mountains was found to be high and difficult to pa.s.s; and it is doubtful with me if the immigrants succeeded in crossing over with their wagons and effects, into the valley of the Wallamet.
OREGON, August 14, 1845.
The following resolution was introduced and adopted in the House of Representatives of Oregon Territory, this day:--
_Resolved_, That this House recommend to the favorable consideration of the government of the United States, the just claims of Dr. Elijah White, sub-Indian agent, to remuneration for the heavy expense by him incurred, in attempting to discover a southern pa.s.s through the Cascade Mountains.
M. M. MCCARVER, Speaker.
Attest: J. E. LONG, Clerk.
WASHINGTON CITY, Dec. 9, 1845.
_Hon. W. Medill:_
DEAR SIR,--Allow me to say a word in behalf of my friend, Dr. Elijah White, Indian agent in Oregon, who desires to arrange at the department the accounts of his four years" service in that Territory. Dr. White, with whom I pa.s.sed the winter of 1844 upon the Wallamet, has had unnumbered difficulties surrounding him, and has performed his duties with great delicacy and happy success. My conviction is, that he has performed services in Oregon, both to whites and Indians, equal to those of several agencies combined, on our western frontier, at a very inadequate compensation, and with very stinted means. All whom I heard comment upon the administration of his office have accorded to him great praise for ardor and industry; and those among whom he has officially acted will be gratified to hear that he has met a generous reception at the department.
Yours, with great respect,