AMOUNT OF SEED TO PURCHASE FOR FAMILY OF SIX[2]
-------------------------+------------------------ VegetableAmount to purchase -------------------------+------------------------Asparagus66 plants Beans, snap (in variety)2 to 3 pounds Beans, bush lima1 pound Beet4 ounces Cabbage:Early1 packet Late1/2 ounce Carrot1 ounce Cauliflower1 packet Celery1 packet Corn, sweet2 pounds Cuc.u.mber1 ounce Eggplant1 packet Kale1 ounce Lettuce1/2 ounce Muskmelon1 ounce Onion sets4 quarts Onion seed1 ounce Peas2 to 4 pounds Parsley1 packet Parsnip1 ounce Radish (in variety)2 ounces Rhubarb20 plants Salsify1 ounce Spinach1 pound New Zealand spinach1 ounce Summer pumpkin1 ounce Winter pumpkin2 ounces Squash2 ounces Tomatoes1 packet or 50 plants Turnip4 ounces Rutabaga1 ounce Watermelon2 ounces -------------------------+------------------------
_Planning and Operating a Home Garden._--In planning the home vegetable garden there are a few essential points to be kept in mind. The time to plan the garden is in winter when adequate consideration can be given to the selection of those vegetables that the family likes best and can use in large amounts. Seeds required should be ordered early for the entire garden. By drawing the plan of the garden on paper and following it, the procedure is simplified and the most efficient results attained.
Vegetables should be planted in rows rather than in beds, and those maturing at about the same time should be grouped together to facilitate succession planting. After the early-maturing crops have been harvested, other crops can be sown on the same area, thus fully utilizing the land throughout the growing season. Perennial crops, including asparagus and rhubarb, should be kept by themselves.
A practical farmer wanting to express perfection in soil preparation is apt to say, "It is just like a garden." This implies good fertility, optimum moisture conditions and proper tilth. To attain these conditions in garden soil it is desirable to cover it with strawy manure some time previous to plowing, in order that rains may carry the soluble fertility elements into the surface inches of the soil. In the early spring a thorough job of plowing or spading should be done to reasonable depth, completely covering the surface straw or dead plants. Every two or three years lime should be applied after plowing and worked into the top soil at the rate of 1 pound of hydrated lime to every 25 square feet of soil.
_Fertilizing and Culture._--The fertility supplied through application of manure should be supplemented by the use of commercial fertilizer. This can be purchased in burlap bags from local supply agencies and should contain about 5 per cent nitrogen, 8 per cent phosphoric acid and 7 per cent potash. Moderate variations in a.n.a.lysis from 5-8-7, as above, are not important so long as the amounts of each element are well balanced. The fertilizer should be broadcast over the garden after plowing, at the rate of 1 pound to every 25 square feet and worked into the soil before planting. Poultry or sheep manure may be used as top dressing to alternate with commercial fertilizer. It should be borne in mind that such animal manures are richer in nitrogen than in other elements and if used to excess may stimulate leaf growth at the expense of yield and quality.
Frequent shallow cultivations are desirable. The ordinary wheel hoe will be found helpful in the cultivating procedure. It should be well understood that cultivation is essential to prevent weed growth and conserve moisture.
If watering or irrigating is necessary in dry weather, it should be thoroughly done. One soaking of the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches is far more effective than frequent light sprinklings. The latter may be more harmful than beneficial through reestablishing capillary movement, permitting the escape of subsoil moisture. Water should be applied under the same conditions that apply when rain falls--on cloudy days or after sunset to prevent "baking" or encrusting of the surface soil as well as to conserve the amount of water needed.
_Meeting the Insect Problem._--The sponsor of a garden in which diversified vegetables are grown must be prepared to meet the onslaught of equally diversified insect species. While it is true that insects are multiplying as to species and voraciousness, it is equally true that methods of control are becoming available to cope adequately with most of them. One unfamiliar with our insect infestations will be amazed to find that certain species apparently have had advance notice of his intentions and are sitting about the planted rows awaiting the appearance of the tender shoots.
One of the best methods of combating insects is to create ideal conditions for plant growth. Plants that are underfed through inadequate soil fertility or are weakened by other causes suffer severely from insect attack, while vigorous plants will come through with much less damage. It is advisable to insure rapid germination of seed through careful soil preparation, to seed at the proper time for a quick and vigorous start and to have sufficient available fertility to stimulate growth once the plants have started.
There are two distinct cla.s.ses of insects, the division being based upon their feeding habits. The larger group, both in the size of the insects themselves and in the number of species, is the leaf-chewing group. These can be destroyed by the application of stomach poisons to the plants under attack. The other group consists of the sucking insects, which penetrate the veins carrying nourishment to the leaves and appropriate it for themselves. Such insects multiply with extreme rapidity, generally feed on the underside of the leaves and may cause complete wilting of the plant before their presence is suspected. In such cases a "contact" spray or dust must be used. This is based on the principle of causing the insect to "inhale" the material through breathing pores along its body. The insecticide must be composed of extremely fine particles or must be of such an oily nature that it will readily penetrate such pores. In addition to these, certain repellent materials are being developed which cause the insect to seek food where the disagreeable conditions do not prevail.
TABLE III
PRINc.i.p.aL INSECTS AND REMEDIES[3]
-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Plants attackedChewingCharacterTreatmentinsectsof damage-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Tomato, pepper,Flea BeetlesThey gnaw orDust or spray with eggplant, turnip,eat small holesa prepared nicotine cabbage, etc.in the leaves.or pyrethrum mixture.
Bordeaux mixturesprayed, or dustingfor disease is alsoeffective asa repellent.
AsparagusAsparagusFeeds on theDust with eitherBeetleshoots anda.r.s.enate of lead orbrush.calcium a.r.s.enate,mixed with 1 part ofwheat flour. Spraywith a.r.s.enate of leador calcium a.r.s.enate,1 tablespoonful if apaste or 1/2tablespoonful if apowder, and 1tablespoonful of limeto 1 gallon of water.
All kinds ofMexican BeanEats the underDust with 1 part of beansBeetleside of leavesmagnesium a.r.s.enatemixed with 3 parts oflime, or dust theyellow larva underthe leaves with apyrethrum dust.
{Cabbage MaggotKeep the ground {thoroughly cultivated {around the base of Early cabbage {the plant or use tar and cauliflower {paper discs for {larger plantings.
{{Common CabbageFeed on theSame as for asparagus {Wormshoots andbeetle. Pyrethrum {and Cabbagebrush.dust is also very {Loopereffective.
Cuc.u.mber, squash,StripedEats the leavesProtect with a and melons.Cuc.u.mberand the stem ofcheesecloth or do theBeetlethe very youngsame as for theplants.asparagus beetle.
Pumpkins andSquash VineKills the vinesTake a sharp squashesBorerby eating inthin-bladed penknifethe stem.and slit the stemlengthwise, openingit and killing theborer. Then bank theground around thestem of the plant.
Tomato, eggplant,Potato BeetleEats theSame as for Cabbage potatoleaves.Worm.
TomatoTomato HornEats theSame as for CommonWormleaves.Cabbage Worm.
Tomato fruitsTomato FruitEats the tomatoSame as for CabbageWormfruits.Worm.
Tomato, eggplant,CutwormsCut the plantsProtect with paper pepper, cabbage,off nearcollars placed and other crops.the surfacearound the stem ofof the ground.the plant, extending2 or 3 inches abovethe ground, ordistribute poisonedbran mash, placingit near the plant.
Thoroughly mix2 leveltablespoonfuls ofparis green in5 pounds of dry bran,then add from 4 to 6quarts of water inwhich 1/2 pint ofcheap mola.s.ses hasbeen mixed. Cutwormswork at night,therefore apply themash in the lateafternoon orevening.
-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Plants attackedSuckingCharacterTreatmentinsectsof damage-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Tomato, potato,Leaf HopperFeeds under theDust or spray with strawberries,leaf, causinga prepared nicotine and beans.a whitening andor pyrethrum mixture.
curve of theBordeaux mixture isleaves withalso effective asa dying of thea repellent.
edges.Practically allAphisSucks theEither dust or spray garden vegetable(plant lice)juices on thewith a nicotine or plants.under side ofpyrethrum mixture asthe leaves andrecommended on theon the stems.package. Be sure tohit the insects onthe under side of theleaves.
Cabbage group,Red SpiderSucks theApply a dusting strawberries,juices from thesulfur.
and beans.under side ofthe leaves,producinga whitish caston the cabbagegroup anda brownish caston the othergroups.Especiallyprevalentduringprolonged dryhot spells.-----------------+--------------+---------------+---------------------
Table III (pages 107-108) describes the character of damage done by both groups of insects, the plants attacked and the most effective methods of control.
_Do"s_
Grow vegetables for health, recreation and economy.
Organize the vegetable garden for a maximum of output, variety of foods and to facilitate its care.
Use lime and chemical fertilizer or manure liberally for intensive culture.
Combat insects by stimulating plant growth and by using appropriate lethal products.
_Don"ts_
Don"t plant a garden in hit-or-miss fashion, if maximum food return is expected.
Don"t neglect first appearances of insect damage. Find out the cause of injury and use recommended measures for control.
_Chapter_ VIII
HOME FRUITS AND BEES
A wide variety of fruits may be grown satisfactorily for home use. Where no fruit trees are growing the best plan is to set out individual trees or bush fruits of the standard types and varieties, adding to the collection later as the needs of the family develop and the adaptability of the area for varieties manifests itself through crop production.
All fruits thrive best on a deep, well-drained soil. It is difficult to secure good results where the area is depressed and air drainage is poor.
Elevation of the area planted is desirable therefore from the standpoint of both water and air drainage.
A number of questions confront the prospective grower of fruits. He needs to know, among other things, the kind of fruit to plant, the necessary distance between the trees or plants and the probable yield. The following planting guide will be found helpful in answering these questions.
HOME FRUITS AND BEES
PLANTING GUIDE[4]
-------+----------------+--------+--------+------------------------- AveragenumberEstimated yield ofDistanceDistanceat maturity plantsKind of fruitbetweenbetween +------------+------------ torows,plants,AverageAverage thefeetfeetper acreper plant acre-------+----------------+--------+--------+------------+------------ 27Apples4040135 bushels5 bushels 90Pears222290 bushels1 bushel 200Quinces1616100 bushels1/2 bushel 90Peaches222290 bushels1 bushel 90Nectarines222290 bushels1 bushel 90Plums222290 bushels1 bushel 90Cherries (sour)222290 bushels1 bushel 48Cherries (sweet)303050 bushels1 bushel 6,000Strawberries3-1/222,250 quarts3/4 pint(matted row)per stool 1,800Raspberries832,000 quarts1 quart 1,800Blackberries832,400 quarts1-1/4 quarts 1,200Dewberries661,800 quarts1 quart(hill system)1,800Gooseberries835,400 quarts3 quarts 1,800Currants833,600 quarts2 quarts 680Grapes884,000 pounds6 pounds -------+----------------+--------+--------+------------+------------
The selection of varieties of tree fruits is highly important. Some sorts are preeminently adapted to home use because of their high quality of edibility while others are preferred for commercial production on account of their good shipping qualities and high yields per acre. It is advisable for the grower to inquire of his state agricultural college regarding varieties to plant. Responsible nursery firms will also advise on varieties that will best meet the needs of the purchaser from the standpoint of family use and adaptability to soil and climatic conditions.
The following varieties are recommended for general home use in north-central areas of the United States, subject to check by local authorities. The apple and peach varieties are given in the order of ripening.
Apples: William Wealthy McIntosh Rome Stayman Peaches (all freestone): Golden Jubilee Georgia Belle Elberta J. H. Hale Pears: Bartlett Seckel Cherries: Montmorency or Early Richmond (sour) Black Tartarian (sweet) Plums: Damson (blue) Burbank (red)
About fifty strawberry plants will be needed for a row 100 feet long.
Because of weed infestations in old beds, it will be more satisfactory to set a new row each year and destroy the old one. The plants during the season of setting should be trained to form a matted row about 2 feet wide. Mulching the plants after a freeze in the fall with straw or other similar material will prevent injury caused by "heaving" of the soil.
Currants and gooseberries should be pruned annually and only the one- or two-year-old wood retained for production. Thinning out in this manner will give better size and quality. Where the currant worm is troublesome the foliage should be dusted with a.r.s.enate of lead or Paris green as soon as it is well developed and before the fruit is started. About thirty currant or gooseberry plants will be needed for a 100-foot row, and they can be planted along a fence or other boundary line.