[* The longitude of Low-Head, deduced from the Investigator"s time keepers, combined with my surveys in the Francis and Norfolk, is 146 47 east; as the observations with the large s.e.xtant, No. 251, taken alone, would give it very nearly.]
Port Dalrymple and the _River Tamar_* occupy the bottom of a valley betwixt two irregular chains of hills, which shoot off north-westward, from the great body of inland mountains. In some places, these hills stand wide apart, and the river then opens its banks to a considerable extent; in others, they nearly meet, and contract its bed to narrow limits. The Tamar has, indeed, more the appearance of a chain of lakes, than of a regularly-formed river; and such it probably was, until, by long undermining, a.s.sisted perhaps by some unusual weight of water, a communicating channel was formed, and a pa.s.sage forced out to sea. From the shoals in Sea Reach, and more particularly from those at Green Island which turn the whole force of the tides, one is led to suppose, that the period when the pa.s.sage to sea was forced has not been very remote.
[* So named by the late lieut. colonel Paterson, who was sent from Port Jackson to settle a new colony there, in 1804. The sources of the river were then explored, and the new names applied which are given in the chart. The first town established was _Yorktown_ at the head of the Western Arm, but this proving inconvenient as a sea port, it was proposed to be removed lower down, near Green Island. _Launceston_, which is intended to be the capital of the new colony, is fixed at the junction of the _North_ and _South Esks_, up to which the Tamar is navigable for vessels of 150 tons. The tide reaches nine or ten miles up the North Esk, and the produce of the farms within that distance may be sent down the river by boats, but the South Esk descends from the mountains by a cataract, directly into the Tamar, and, consequently, is not accessible to navigation of any kind.]
Of the two chains of hills which bound the valley, the eastern one terminates at Low Head; the other comes down to the sea, five or six miles from it, on the west side of the port. The ends of these chains, when seen from directly off the entrance, appear as two cl.u.s.ters of hills having some resemblance to each other; and in fine weather, the distant blue heads of the back mountains will be seen over the tops of both cl.u.s.ters. These appearances, joined to the lat.i.tude and longitude, are the best _distant_ marks for finding Port Dalrymple. If a ship come along sh.o.r.e from the eastward, the Ninth Island, and afterward Stony Head with the Tenth Islet lying three or four miles to the north-west, will announce the vicinity of the port; and Low Head will be perceived in the bight to the S. S. W., but it is not a conspicuous object.
Three or four leagues to the westward of the port, the back land is uncommonly high, and the top of the ridge is intersected into uncouth shapes. From the brilliancy of some of these mountains, on the appearance of the sun after rain, I judged them to be of granite, like those of Furneaux"s Islands. These mountains, with the direction of the coast and what has been said of the cl.u.s.ters of hills, may serve as marks for Port Dalrymple to ships coming along sh.o.r.e from the westward.
Reefs and banks extend out to a considerable distance on the west side of the entrance; so that strangers should avoid that side, and endeavour to come in with Low Head. The greater part of these shoals, as also of those in Sea Reach, are covered at half tide; therefore the first of the flood, or even a little before, is the best time to enter Port Dalrymple, as almost the whole of the dangers are then visible. A signal post, with pilots, was fixed at Low Head on the settlement of the new colony in 1804, and beacons have since been placed on the most dangerous rocks and shoals; it has therefore become unnecessary to give particular instructions for sailing up the port, especially as they may be found in my _Observations on the coasts of Van Diemen"s Land, etc._; a little memoir published by Mr. Arrowsmith, in 1801.*
[* In Mr. Horsburgh"s _Sailing Directions, etc._ Part II., are given, upon my friend captain Kent"s authority, notices of the beacons laid down, and directions respecting them; to which I add, from the information of lieut. Oxley, that a rock, on which H. M. ship Porpoise struck, lies W. N. by compa.s.s, one cable"s length from _Point Roundabout_. There is no more than four feet upon it at low water, but it way be safely pa.s.sed on either side.]
We found Port Dalrymple to be an excellent place for refreshment. Out of the flocks of black swans, from one-fifth to one-tenth of them were unable to fly; and since the same thing has been found to obtain in the months of January and May, as well as in October. it is probably so at all times of the year. These birds are endowed with a considerable portion of sagacity: they cannot dive, but have a method of immersing themselves so deep in the water, as to render their bodies nearly invisible, and thus frequently to avoid detection. In chase, their plan was to gain the wind upon our little boat; and they usually succeeded when the breeze was strong, and sometimes escaped from our shot also.
Kangaroos appeared to be rather numerous in this part of Van Diemen"s Land; but as they were shy, and we had little time or necessity to go after them, one only was procured; it was of the large, forest kind, and the flesh was thought superior to that of the same animal at Port Jackson.
Ducks and teal went by flocks in Port Dalrymple; but they were shy, and we took no trouble after them. The white-bellied s.h.a.g, and the black and pied red bills were common in the lower parts of the port, and some pelicans were seen upon the shoals. The large black s.h.a.g, usually found in rivers, was seen in different parts of the Tamar; and upon another occasion, we found these birds to be tolerable food.
Neither our wants nor leisure were sufficient to induce any attempt to catch fish. Muscles were abundant upon those rocks which are overflowed by the tide; and the natives appeared to get oysters by diving, the sh.e.l.ls having been found near their fire places.
The country round Port Dalrymple has, in general, a pleasing and fertile appearance; nor did examination prove it to be deceitful. But this subject, and what concerns the natives, came more particularly within the department of Mr. Ba.s.s; and his observations upon them having been published, I proceed to the continuation of the voyage.
Dec. 3, in the evening, the Norfolk was lying at anchor off the entrance of the port, when a breeze sprung up from the north-eastward, and enabled us to proceed along the coast. At dusk, Low Head bore S. 77 E. six miles, and we then hauled off for the night. The sh.o.r.e on the west side of Port Dalrymple falls back to the southward and forms a bight under the high land, where it is possible there may be some small opening; for the haziness of the weather did not allow the coast line to be distinctly traced. Upon the back mountains are many variously-shaped tops, of which the easternmost bore S. 5 E., and a flat one towards the other end of the ridge, S. 38 W. The furthest land which could be seen was a round hill, making like an island, and bore very nearly west from the mast head.
Dec. 4. We resumed our course westward, but the wind being at N. N. E., did not dare to approach very near the sh.o.r.e. At noon, the observed lat.i.tude was 40 58", and the hills on the west side of Port Dalrymple bore S. 65 E. five or six leagues. From thence to S. 38 W., where another chain of hills came down to the sea, the country is well wooded, and lies in hills and vallies. The Round Hill bore S. 65 W. five or six leagues, and in the evening, when three leagues distant, the low land connecting it with the main was visible.
During the night, and next day, Dec. 5, the winds were light and variable, so that we made little progress. At noon, the furthest land seen to the westward appeared like a small flat-topped island, but being found to be connected with the main land, received the descriptive name of _Circular Head_; a nearer projection, of a jagged appearance, was called _Rocky Cape_, and a steep cliffy head still nearer, _Table Cape_, from its flat top. Our situation was then as under;
Lat.i.tude observed, 40 56" S.
Round Hill, distant three leagues, S. 22 E.
Table Cape, north extreme, N. 88 W.
Rocky Cape, highest k.n.o.b, N. 77 W.
Circular Head N. 71 W.
A flat-topped peak, inland, S. 14 W.
The sandy sh.o.r.e abreast was seven or eight miles distant, and behind it the land was low, but tolerably well covered with wood. The sole remarkable object inland, was the flat-topped peak, which had very much the appearance of an extinguished volcano. From after bearings, it was found to lie S. 1 E. eleven leagues from Table Cape; and in that direction its top a.s.sumes the form of a pointed cone.
In the morning of Dec. 6, our situation was N. 8 E. four miles from the cliffy, north-east end of Table Cape, and the Round Hill bore S. 41 E.
Having a favourable breeze, we pa.s.sed, at eight o"clock, within half a mile of the reef which surrounds Rocky Cape, and steered onward for Circular Head, which as yet was the furthest visible land.
Table Cape, Rocky Cape, and Circular Head lie nearly in a line of N. 62 W., and are about ten miles apart from each other. Between these, the coast forms two shallow bights; the sh.o.r.e of the first is mostly rocky, and an islet lies in the middle; the western bight is sandy, and promises better anchorage, particularly near Circular Head, where a vessel may be sheltered against all winds from the western half of the compa.s.s. The land at the back of the sh.o.r.e, from Table Cape westward, is of a different description to that before pa.s.sed: instead of having an extensive view over a variegated, and well wooded country, the sight was there confined by a ridge of stony hills, of which Rocky Cape is no more than a projecting part.
Circular Head is a cliffy, round lump, in form much resembling a Christmas cake; and is joined to the main by a low, sandy isthmus. The land at the back is somewhat lower than the head, and is formed into very gentle slopes. A slight covering of withered gra.s.s gave it a smooth appearance; and some green bushes scattered over it much resembled, at a distance, a herd of seals basking upon a rock.
We pa.s.sed Circular Head at ten, and three hummocks of land then came in sight to the north-westward, the southernmost and highest having something of a sugar-loaf form. Between these hills and the smooth land to the west of Circular Head, there was a large bight, in which some patches of land were indistinctly visible through the haze; but as the wind was then blowing directly into the bight, the fear of getting embayed prevented its examination. Our position at noon was as follows:
Lat.i.tude observed, 40 39" S.
Circular Head, distant seven miles, S. 17 E.
West extreme of the smooth land behind it, S. 6 W.
Sugar-loaf hummock, N. 55 W.
Northernmost hummock, N. 49 W.
From the time of leaving Port Dalrymple no tide had been observed, until this morning. It ran with us, and continued until three o"clock; at which time low land was seen beyond the three hummocks. This trending of the coast so far to the north made me apprehend, that it might be found to join the land near Western Port, and thus disappoint our hopes of discovering an open pa.s.sage to the westward; the water was also discoloured, as if we were approaching the head of a bay, rather than the issue of a strait; and on sounding, we had 17, and afterwards 15 fathoms on a sandy bottom.
The wind having become light and the tide turned to the eastward, our situation at dusk was little altered from what it had been at three o"clock; but from the clearing away of the haze, the lands in the great bight had become more distinguishable, and the following bearings were taken:
Table Cape, distant 11 or 12 leagues, S. 43 E.
Circular Head, S. 26 E.
Sugar-loaf hummock, N. 75 W.
Extreme of the three-hummock land, N. 48 W.
Low point in the great bight, with a cliffy head at a further distance behind it, S. 70 W.
The cliffs visible behind the low point had every appearance of being the north head of an opening, but of what kind, our distance was too great to determine.*
[* In 1804, Mr. Charles Robbins, acting lieutenant of His Majesty"s ship Buffalo, was sent from Port Jackson to examine this great bight; and from his sketch it is, that the unshaded coast and soundings written at right angles are laid down in the chart.]
During the night and next day, Dec. 7, the wind was variable, with alternate calms. The lat.i.tude at noon was 40 28", and the sugarloaf hill bore W. by S. ten miles. On the 8th a breeze sprung up from the south-westward, and threatened a gale from that boisterous quarter. We were in 40 23" at noon, and trying to work up to the land of the three hummocks, to prevent losing ground; and at six in the evening, got to an anchor in a quarter less 4 fathoms, in a small sandy bight under the northern hummock, being sheltered from N. 2 E., round by the west to S.
30 E. Circular Head was still visible, bearing S. 35 E.; and the difference of longitude made from Port Dalrymple was calculated at 1, subject to future revision.
Mr. Ba.s.s and myself landed immediately to examine the country and the coast, and to see what food could be procured; for the long detention by foul winds had obliged me to make a reduction in the provisions, lest the object of our voyage and return to Port Jackson should not be accomplished in the twelve weeks for which we were victualled. At dusk, we returned on board, having had little success as to any of the objects proposed; but with the knowledge of a fact, from which an interesting deduction was drawn: the tide had been running from the eastward all the afternoon, and contrary to expectation, we found it to be near low water by the sh.o.r.e; the flood, therefore, came from the west, and not from the eastward, as at Furneaux"s Isles. This we considered to be a strong proof, not only of the real existence of a pa.s.sage betwixt this land and New South Wales, but also that the entrance into the Southern Indian Ocean could not be far distant.
The little time there was for examining the coast, confined my observations to what were necessary for giving it the formation it has in the chart. The country is hilly, and Mr. Ba.s.s found it impenetrable from the closeness of the tall brush wood, although it had been partially burnt not long before. There was very little soil spread over the rock and sand, and the general aspect was that of sterility. Several deserted fire places, strewed round with the sh.e.l.ls of the sea ear, were found upon the sh.o.r.e.
The south-west wind died away in the night; and at six next morning, Dec.
9, we got under way with a light air at south-east. After rounding the northeast point of the three-hummock land, our course westward was pursued along its north side.
A large flock of gannets was observed at daylight, to issue out of the great bight to the southward; and they were followed by such a number of the sooty petrels as we had never seen equalled. There was a stream of from fifty to eighty yards in depth, and of three hundred yards, or more, in breadth; the birds were not scattered, but flying as compactly as a free movement of their wings seemed to allow; and during a full _hour and a half_, this stream of petrels continued to pa.s.s without interruption, at a rate little inferior to the swiftness of the pigeon. On the lowest computation, I think the number could not have been less than a hundred millions; and we were thence led to believe, that there must be, in the large bight, one or more uninhabited islands of considerable size.*
[* Taking the stream to have been fifty yards deep by three hundred in width, and that it moved at the rate of thirty miles an hour, and allowing nine cubic yards of s.p.a.ce to each bird, the number would amount to 151,500,000. The burrows required to lodge this quant.i.ty of birds would be 75,750,000; and allowing a square yard to each burrow, they would cover something more than 181 geographic square miles of ground.]
From the north-east point of the three-hummock land, the sh.o.r.e trended W.
1 N. three miles; then S. 39 W. four miles, to a rocky point, forming the south-west extremity of what was then ascertained to be THREE-HUMMOCK ISLAND. The channel which separates it from the land to the west, is, at least, two miles in width, and is deep; so that it was difficult to conjecture how the Indians were able to get over to the island. It was almost certain that they had no canoes at Port Dalrymple, nor any means of reaching islands lying not more than two cables length from the sh.o.r.e; and it therefore seemed improbable that they should possess canoes here.
The small size of Three-hummock Island rendered the idea of fixed inhabitants inadmissible; and whichever way it was considered, the presence of men there was a problem difficult to be resolved.*
[* Future visitants to these islands have seen the Indians pa.s.sing over in bodies, by swimming, similar to those whom Dampier saw on the north-west coast of New Holland. Why the natives of Port Dalrymple should not have had recourse to the same expedient, where the distance to be traversed is so much less, seems incomprehensible.]
The coast on the west side of the channel lies nearly south, and rises in height as it advances towards the cliffy head, set on the 6th p.m. The north end of this land is a sloping, rocky point; and the first projection which opened round it, was at S. 32 W., five or six miles.
Beyond this there was nothing like main land to be seen; indeed, this western land itself had very little the appearance of being such, either in its form, or in its poor, starved vegetation. So soon as we had pa.s.sed the north sloping point, a long swell was perceived to come from the south-west, such as we had not been accustomed to for some time. It broke heavily upon a small reef, lying a mile and a half from the point, and upon all the western sh.o.r.es; but, although it was likely to prove troublesome, and perhaps dangerous, Mr. Ba.s.s and myself hailed it with joy and mutual congratulation, as announcing the completion of our long-wished-for discovery of a pa.s.sage into the Southern Indian Ocean.
We had a fine breeze at east; and our course was directed for a small, rocky island which lies W. N. 6 miles from the north point of the barren land. This island appeared to be almost white with birds; and so much excited our curiosity and hope of procuring a supply of food, that Mr. Ba.s.s went on sh.o.r.e in the boat whilst I stood off and on, waiting his return. No land could be seen to the northward, and the furthest clearly distinguishable in the opposite direction was a steep island at the distance of four leagues. The observations taken at noon were,
Lat.i.tude, 40 23" S.
The bird island, distant two miles, S. 16 to 64 E.
Three-hummock Island, the sugar loaf, S. 64 E.
Steep-head Island S. 9 E.
Mr. Ba.s.s returned at half past two, with a boat load of seals and albatrosses. He had been obliged to fight his way up the cliffs of the island with the seals, and when arrived at the top, to make a road with his clubs amongst the albatrosses. These birds were sitting upon their nests, and almost covered the surface of the ground, nor did they any otherwise derange themselves for the new visitors, than to peck at their legs as they pa.s.sed by. This species of albatross is white on the neck and breast, partly brown on the back and wings, and its size is less than many others met with at sea, particularly in the high southern lat.i.tudes.
The seals were of the usual size, and bore a reddish fur, much inferior in quality to that of the seals at Furneaux"s Islands.