These reefs were not exactly those seen by Mr. Campbell; but they are probably not more than five or six leagues to the north-westward of them, and form part of the same _barrier_ to the coast. In standing on between the two reefs above set, others, or parts of the same, came in sight ahead; upon which I shortened sail to the three top sails, desired the Lady Nelson to take the lead, and bore away north-westward along the inner side of the northern reef. In an hour we had pa.s.sed its west end; but another reef came in sight, and for a time obliged us to steer W. by S. At four o"clock we ran northward again, following the direction of the reef on its lee side; and at six anch.o.r.ed in 27 fathoms, coa.r.s.e sand, in the following situation:
Lat.i.tude observed from the moon., 21 4" S.
Longitude from bearings, 150 19 E.
Nearest part of the reef, dist. 2 miles, E. S.
A smaller reef, distant 3 miles, N. W. N.
Percy Isles, Pine Peak of No. 3, S. 9 0 W.
c.u.mberland Island marked "k", W. 6 0 N.
The reefs were not dry in any part, with the exception of some small black lumps, which at a distance resembled the round heads of negroes; the sea broke upon the edges, but within side the water was smooth, and of a light green colour. A further description of these dangers is unnecessary, since their forms and relative positions, so far as they could be ascertained, will be best learned from the chart.
Until midnight, five hours after the moon had pa.s.sed the meridian, a tide came from S. by E., half a mile per hour. The ship then tended to the N.
E. by E.; and this tide, whose rate was one mile, appearing to be the flood, led me to suppose there might be an open sea in that direction. In the morning [WEDNESDAY 6 OCTOBER 1802], I sent a boat to lieutenant Murray with instructions for his guidance in case of separation; and appointed him Murray"s Islands in Torres" Strait, discovered by captain Edwards in 1791, for the first rendezvous; cautioning him to be strictly on his guard against the treachery of the natives.
We weighed at seven o"clock, and steered N. N. E., close to the wind; at ten, reefs came in sight, extending from W. by N., to N. by E. E., which we weathered one mile, having 35 fathoms water. Our situation at noon was in lat.i.tude 20 45" 40", from observations to the north and south, and the longitude by time keeper 150 28"; the east end of the great reef to leeward bore S. W. W. two miles, and it extended in patches to N. 16 W., where, at the distance of two leagues, was either a dry white sand or high breakers but which could not be discerned from the reflection of the sun. Nothing was seen to the north-east, and we now lay up in that direction; but at one o"clock there was a small reef bearing N. E.; and at three, a larger one extended from N. by W. W. to E. N.
E., and on the outside of it were such high breakers, that nothing less than the un.o.bstructed waves of the ocean could produce them. We stood on for this reef, until four; and being then one mile off, tacked to the southward, having 33 fathoms, nearly the same depth as before.
The larbord tack was continued to six o"clock, at which time we anch.o.r.ed in 32 fathoms, white sand, sh.e.l.ls, and pieces of coral, having neither reef nor danger of any kind in sight; but the smoothness of the water left no doubt of many lying to windward. From the high breakers seen in the afternoon, however, hopes were entertained of soon clearing the reefs; for by this time I was weary of them, not only from the danger to which the vessels were thereby exposed, but from fear of the contrary monsoon setting in upon the North Coast, before we should get into the Gulph of Carpentaria.
At this anchorage, the tide came from between S. W. by S. and W. by S., till midnight; and at two in the morning [THURSDAY 7 OCTOBER 1802] the ship rode north, and afterwards N. E. by E., to the flood; which seemed to imply two openings in the reefs, and one of them near the high breakers. The depth of water changed from 35 to 32 fathoms, in the night; but a part of the difference might arise from irregularities in the bottom.
We got under way at daybreak, and stretched south-east to gain the wind; at nine, a reef was pa.s.sed on each beam; and at noon, when we tacked to the northward in 20 58" south and 150 48" east, there were five others, distant from two to five miles, bearing from S. 20 W., round by the east and north to N. 25 W.; but apparently with pa.s.sages between most of them. Upon these reefs were more of the dry, black lumps, called negro heads, than had been seen before; but they were so much alike as to be of no use in distinguishing one reef from another; and at high water, nearly the whole were covered.
In the afternoon, a very light wind at north-east left no prospect of weathering the reef before dark, upon which the high breakers had been seen; we therefore tacked to the E. S. E., and anch.o.r.ed at sunset in 84 fathoms, fine white sand, not far from our noon"s situation; a reef, partly dry, was then distant one mile and a half, and bore E. S. to S.
E. The flood tide here ran something more than one mile an hour, and came from between north and north-west, the ship tending to it at one in the morning.
FRIDAY 8 OCTOBER 1802
At seven, when the flood had done running, the two vessels were lying up E. N. E., with a light breeze from the northward; but a rippling which extended a mile from the reef, caused us to tack until a boat was sent to sound upon it; for the Lady Nelson was so leewardly, that much time was lost in waiting for her. At ten we pa.s.sed through the rippling, in from 14 to 34 fathoms; and at noon were in lat.i.tude 20 55", and longitude 150 55" by time keeper. We seemed at this time to be surrounded with reefs; but it was ascertained by the whale boat, that many of these appearances were caused by the shadows of clouds and the ripplings and eddies of tide, and that the true coral banks were those only which had either green water or negro heads upon them. Of these, however, there was a formidable ma.s.s, all round ahead, with but one small channel through them; and this I was resolved to attempt, in the hope of its carrying us out to windward of the high breakers.
At two o"clock, the eastern reef, which was a mile distant to leeward and nearly dry, was seen to terminate, whilst the northern reefs extended out of sight to the north-east; the opening between them was a mile and a half wide, and full of ripplings; but having the whale boat ahead, we bore away E. S. E., to go through the least agitated part. Having little wind, and a flood tide making against us, the boat was called back to tow, and the brig directed to take its station by means of her sweeps.
Our soundings were irregular in the narrow part, between 24 and 9 fathoms, on rocky ground; but after getting through, we had from 30 to 32, the usual depth in the open places. At sunset, the stream anchor was dropped on a bottom of coral sand and sh.e.l.ls; the reefs then in sight extending from about E. S. E., round by the north to N. W., where was the great northern bank. Whether there were any pa.s.sage through them, could not be discerned; but the breakers on many of the outer parts proved the open sea to be not far distant, and that the waves ran high; whilst within side, the water was as tranquil as in harbour.
The ship rode north-west, till between eight and nine o"clock, when it appeared to be high water, and the depth was 35 fathoms; at 9h 34" the moon pa.s.sed the meridian, and we were then riding S. by W., to a tide which ran at the strongest one and a quarter mile per hour. Between three and four in the morning [SAt.u.r.dAY 9 OCTOBER 1802] this tide had done, the depth was 31 fathoms, and the ship afterwards rode N. N. E. till daylight. The first of the flood therefore came from the N. N. E. and the latter part from N. W.; it was high water at _one hour before_ the moon"s pa.s.sage, and the rise at least three fathoms, or eighteen feet. This time of high water coincides with that of Broad Sound; but it is remarkable, that at the Percy Isles, lying between them, it should be three hours earlier. The rise in Broad Sound was five fathoms, and three, or more, amongst the reefs; whereas at the Percy Isles, there was nothing on the sh.o.r.e to indicate a higher tide than two fathoms.
In the morning we steered E. N. E., with a light air from the southward; the brig was ahead, and at half past nine, made the signal for immediate danger; upon which the stream anchor was dropped in 16 fathoms. The tide ran one mile and a half to the E. N. E, and this leading me to expect some opening in that direction, I sent the master to sound past the brig; and on his finding deeper water we followed, drifting with the tide. At eleven he made the signal for being on a shoal, and we came to, in 35 fathoms, broken coral and sand; being surrounded by reefs, except to the westward from whence we had come. On the outside were high breakers, not more than three or four miles distant; these terminated at E. by S., and between them and other reefs further on, there seemed a possibility of finding an outlet; but no access to it could be had, except by a winding circuit amongst the great ma.s.s of banks to the southward, which it was not advisable to make upon such an uncertainty. I therefore determined to remain at the present anchorage till low water, when the reefs would be dry, and the channels between them, if any such there were, would be visible: and should nothing better then present itself, to steer north-westward, as close within the line of the high breakers as possible, until an opening should be found.
The lat.i.tude observed to the north and south, at this fifth anchorage amongst the reefs, was 20 53" 15"; longitude by time keeper, 151 5"
east. In the afternoon, I went upon the reef with a party of the gentlemen; and the water being very clear round the edges, a new creation, as it was to us, but imitative of the old, was there presented to our view. We had wheat sheaves, mushrooms, stags horns, cabbage leaves, and a variety of other forms, glowing under water with vivid tints of every shade betwixt green, purple, brown, and white; equalling in beauty and excelling in grandeur the most favourite _parterre_ of the curious florist. These were different species of coral and fungus, growing, as it were, out of the solid rock, and each had its peculiar form and shade of colouring; but whilst contemplating the richness of the scene, we could not long forget with what destruction it was pregnant.
Different corals in a dead state, concreted into a solid ma.s.s of a dull-white colour, composed the stone of the reef. The negro heads were lumps which stood higher than the rest; and being generally dry, were blackened by the weather; but even in these, the forms of the different corals, and some sh.e.l.ls were distinguishable. The edges of the reef, but particularly on the outside where the sea broke, were the highest parts; within, there were pools and holes containing live corals, sponges, and sea eggs and cuc.u.mbers;* and many enormous c.o.c.kles (_chama gigas_) were scattered upon different parts of the reef. At low water, this c.o.c.kle seems most commonly to lie half open; but frequently closes with much noise; and the water within the sh.e.l.ls then spouts up in a stream, three or four feet high: it was from this noise and the spouting of the water, that we discovered them, for in other respects they were scarcely to be distinguished from the coral rock. A number of these c.o.c.kles were taken on board the ship, and stewed in the coppers; but they were too rank to be agreeable food, and were eaten by few. One of them weighed 47 lbs. as taken up, and contained 3lbs. 2 oz. of meat; but this size is much inferior to what was found by captains Cook and Bligh, upon the reefs of the coast further northward, or to several in the British Museum; and I have since seen single sh.e.l.ls more than four times the weight of the above sh.e.l.ls and fish taken together.
[* What we called sea cuc.u.mbers, from their shape, appears to have been the _beche de mer_, or _trepang_; of which the Chinese make a soup, much esteemed in that country for its supposed invigorating qualities.]
There were various small channels amongst the reefs, some of which led to the outer breakers, and through these the tide was rushing in when we returned to the ship; but I could not any where see an opening sufficiently wide for the vessels. Low water took place at a quarter past three, which corresponded with the time of high water observed at the preceding anchorage.
It was too late in the day to begin following the line of the high breakers to the north-westward; but we lifted the anchor to remove further from the eastern reef, which was dry within a mile of the ship.
The wind was light at south-east; and in steering westward, with a boat sounding ahead, we got into one of the narrow streams of tide which carried us rapidly to the south-west; nor could the boat a.s.sist us across, so much was it twisted about by the whirlpools. At six o"clock, being well clear of the stream, an anchor was dropped upon coral sand, in 30 fathoms; at ten, when the ship swung to the ebb, the depth was 33 fathoms, and 28 at low water; as, however, we had two-thirds of a cable out, some of the difference probably arose from the irregularity of the bottom.
SUNDAY 10 OCTOBER 1802
At daylight we steered N. N. W.; but reefs were presently seen all round in that direction, and the course was altered for the small pa.s.sage through which we had come on the 8th. Such, however, was the change in the appearance of the reefs, that no pa.s.sage could then be discovered; and fearing to be mistaken, I dared not venture through, but took a more southern channel, where before no pa.s.sage had appeared to exist. At nine o"clock, having sandy ground in 32 fathoms, and it being very difficult to distinguish the shoals at high water, the anchor was dropped in lat.i.tude 20 56" south and longitude 150 54" east. Between one and two in the afternoon, we steered W. N. W. and N. W.; and meeting with a small dry reef at four, hauled up northward, following the line of the great northern reefs upon which the high breakers had been seen. At half past five we came to, in 26 fathoms sand and sh.e.l.ls, having reefs from S. by E., round by the east and north, to W. by S.; but there were openings at N. N. W. W. and N. E. by E., and we had the pleasure to see high breakers, five or six miles distant in the latter direction. The lat.i.tude here, from an observation of the moon, was 20 49", and longitude 150 48" by time keeper.
MONDAY 11 OCTOBER 1802
Next morning, the brig and whale boat went ahead, and we steered north, after them; the eastern opening was choaked up with small reefs, and we had scarcely entered that to the west when Mr. Murray made the signal for danger, and hauled the wind to the southward. We did the same, round two inner shoals; and finding the bottom irregular, and more shallow than usual, dropped the stream anchor in 27 fathoms. The Lady Nelson was carried rapidly to the south-west, seemingly without being sensible of it, and I therefore made the signal of recall; but although favoured by a fresh breeze, she did not get up against the tide till past nine o"clock.
We rode a great strain on the stream cable, and the ship taking a sudden sheer, it parted at the clinch and we lost the anchor; a bower was immediately let go; but the bottom being rocky, I feared to remain during the lee tide, and in a short time ordered it to be weighed. Mr. Murray had lost a kedge anchor, and was then riding by a bower; and when the signal was made to weigh, he answered it by that of inability. The tide was, indeed, running past the brig at a fearful rate, and I feared it would pa.s.s over her bows; for she lay in one of the narrow streams which came gushing through the small openings in the outer reef. So soon as our anchor was purchased, a boat"s crew was sent to her a.s.sistance; and just before noon she got under sail.
We beat up till one o"clock, towards the anchorage of the preceding evening; but the reefs being deeply covered, they could not be distinguished one from the other; and having found a good bottom, in 35 fathoms, we came to, and made signal for the brig to do the same.
Lieutenant Murray informed me that his anchor had come up with a palm broken off; and having only one bower left, he applied to me for another.
Our anchor had swiveled in the stock; and the work required to it, with getting the last stream anchor out of the hold, and sending Mr. Murray two grapnels, which were all that our own losses could allow of being spared, occupied us till the evening. At low water, two reefs were seen, bearing N. 18to 41 E., a third S. 72 E., and a fourth S. 74 W.; their distances being from two to four or five miles.
The loss of anchors we had this day sustained, deterred me from any more attempting the small pa.s.sages through the Barrier Reef; in these, the tide runs with extraordinary violence, and the bottom is coral rock; and whether with, or without wind, no situation can be more dangerous. My anxious desire to get out to sea, and reach the North Coast before the unfavourable monsoon should set in, had led me to persevere amongst these intricate pa.s.sages beyond what prudence could approve; for had the wind come to blow strong, no anchors, in such deep water and upon loose sand, could have held the ship; a rocky bottom cut the cables; and to have been under sail in the night was certain destruction. I therefore formed the determination, in our future search for a pa.s.sage out, to avoid all narrow channels, and run along, within side the larger reefs, until a good and safe opening should present itself. This plan, which was dictated by a common regard to safety, might carry us far to the north-west, and delay our arrival in the Gulph of Carpentaria; yet I hoped not; for captain Cook had found the flood tide to come from south-east after pa.s.sing the c.u.mberland Islands, whereas before, it ran from the northward; a circ.u.mstance which seemed to indicate a termination of the reefs, or a great opening in them., to the north or north-west of those islands.
TUESDAY 12 OCTOBER 1802
In the morning., we got under way and steered N. N. W.; but anch.o.r.ed again on finding the flood tide too strong to be stemmed with a light breeze. Our lat.i.tude at this tenth anchorage amongst the reefs, was 20 53" 10", from observations to the north and south, and longitude by time keeper 150 42" east. At one o"clock our course was resumed, and continued till sunset in clear water; when we came to, in 32 fathoms sand and sh.e.l.ls, not far to the south of where the first high breakers had been seen, in the afternoon of the 6th. A dry reef bore N. E., distant two and a half, and another E. S. one-and-half miles; and from the mast head others were seen at the back of them, extending from N. W. by N. to near S. E. by E.
WEDNESDAY 13 OCTOBER 1802
On going upon deck next morning at daybreak, to get the ship under way, I found her situation different to that wherein we had anch.o.r.ed in the evening. The wind had been light, and as usual in such cases, the cable was shortened in; and it appeared from the bearings, and from the soundings marked every hour on the log board, that between four and five in the morning, the anchor had been lifted by the tide, or dragged, two miles north-east amongst the reefs, from 33 into 28 fathoms; where it had again caught. This change of place had not been perceived; and it was difficult, from the circ.u.mstance having occurred at the relief of the watch, to discover with whom the culpable inattention lay; but it might have been attended with fatal consequences.
Having weighed the anchor, we steered westward with the brig and whale boat ahead, until past ten; when the eastern breeze died away and the stream anchor was dropped in 30 fathoms, fine white sand. The reefs were then covered. and a dry bank, bearing N. W. by W. five or six miles, was the sole object above water; and towards noon it was covered also.
Between this bank and the great reef and breakers, was a s.p.a.ce which seemed to be open; but it was not sufficiently large, nor did the tide run with that regularity and strength, to induce a belief that, if there were a pa.s.sage, it could be such as I desired for the vessels. We therefore again steered westward, on a breeze rising at N. W., until reefs were seen extending southward from the dry bank, and we bore away along their eastern side. At sunset, the anchor was dropped in 36 fathoms, near to our situation on the 6th at noon; the dry reefs bearing from S. 20 to N. 21 W., distant from one to three miles.
THURSDAY 14 OCTOBER 1802
At daylight the breeze was still from the north-westward, and our course was pursued to the south and south-west, close round the inner end of the reefs, till they trended west and we could no longer keep in with them.
The Pine Peak of the northern Percy Isles, and several of the c.u.mberland Islands were then in sight; and at noon our situation and bearings were as under.
Lat.i.tude observed to the north and south, 21 2" S.
Longitude by time keeper, 150 11 E.
Pine Peak, S. 6 30 E.
Northumberland I., marked "i", S. 60 40 W.
c.u.mberland I., marked "k", N. 89 to N. 85 30 W.
c.u.mberland I., six others, S. 75 to N. 54 30 W.
The nearest of these isles was little better than a sand bank surrounded with rocks, and was distant two leagues in the direction of N. 54 W. We tacked ship at one, and at four o"clock; and anch.o.r.ed at dusk, in 27 fathoms fine sand, about five miles to the N. N. W. of our noon"s situation.
FRIDAY 15 OCTOBER 1802
The wind was at S. by E. in the morning, and we steered northward after the brig, in order to fall in with the reefs and prosecute our search for an opening; in an hour they were visible, and we pa.s.sed along their west side at the distance of a mile. Before nine o"clock the brig made signal for having only 17 fathoms, other reefs were discovered in the north-west, and the course was altered to pa.s.s within them. At eleven we rounded their west end; and at noon were in lat.i.tude 20 38" 58", and from the bearing of the c.u.mberland Isle _k_, in longitude 150 1" east.
We were now obliged to steer westward again, having reefs at the distance of two miles, from N. E. by E., to N. W. by W.; and seeing that they extended onward, and the breeze was fresh, I hauled up for the c.u.mberland Island marked _l_, the largest yet seen, with the intention of anchoring there for the night. The tide carried us too far to leeward, but we fetched a lesser island, _l2_, seven miles to the north; and came to, in 17 fathoms grey sand, one mile from a beach on its north-west side, and half a mile from the reef which surrounds the island.
SAt.u.r.dAY 16 OCTOBER 1802