Tasman"s small Island, S. 24 W.
A deep bight in the coast, S. 56 W.
South head of Frederik Hendrik"s Bay, S. 72 W.
Maria"s Island, south part, N. 64 to 43 W.
north part, N. 39 to 19 W.
Schouten"s Island, North to N. 5 E.
The wind shifted to north at ten o"clock, and we tacked towards Maria"s Island. At noon, the north-east extreme, a c.o.c.k"s-comb-like head, was distant four or five miles; but the islet lying off it, in Mr. c.o.x"s chart, was not visible, nor yet the isthmus which connects the two parts of the island.
Observed lat.i.tude, 42 41" S.
South head of Frederik Hendrik"s Bay, S. 40 W.
Maria"s Island, south part, Clouded.
--------------- north part, S. 82 to N. 64 W.
Schouten"s Island, dist. 4 leagues, N. 3 W. to 8 E.
We had squally weather in the afternoon, with the wind at north-west; and being unable to get near Maria"s Island before the evening, bore away northward, having then a fresh breeze at W. S. W. Schouten"s Island was pa.s.sed within two miles at ten o"clock, and at eleven, a piece of land called Vanderlin"s Island by Tasman, but which has since been found to be the southern extremity of a peninsula. We then steered north, to keep in with the coast; but the wind drawing forward in the morning of the 5th, the sloop was drifted off, by noon, to four or five leagues. The land then abreast rose in ranges of irregular, well-wooded hills; and behind them were two peaks and a flat-topped piece of land, seemingly not many leagues from the sh.o.r.e. The southernmost of the two peaks is the most elevated, and appears to be the _high round mountain_ seen by Tasman on Dec 4 and 5, 1642; I have, therefore, called it _Tasman"s Peak_. It is the northernmost part seen by him on this side of Van Diemen"s Land, as Mount Heemskerk was on the west coast: the flat-topped mountain is that which colonel Paterson afterwards named _Benlomen_. To the southward, the land was visible at a great distance; and if Schouten"s Island and the cape of the peninsula near it can possibly be seen so far as twenty leagues from the deck, it must have been them. My observation and bearings at this time were as follow:
Lat.i.tude observed, 41 27" S.
South extreme of the coast, S. 18 W.
Another piece of land, like an island, S. 23 W.
Tasman"s Peak, S. 63 W.
Northern extremity of the land, N. 32 W.
It was to me a subject of regret, that the wind did not allow of keeping close in with this east coast, since captain Furneauxs examination was made at too great a distance to be exact; but my limited time of absence being expired, and provisions nearly out, nothing more could be attempted than what might be done in the way to Port Jackson.
(Atlas, Plate VI.)
Jan. 6, in lat.i.tude 40 45" no land was in sight; but on the 7th, when in 40 24", the high land of Cape Barren was visible through a thick haze, bearing S. 76 W. five or six miles. The wind being then nearly at east, we steered to pa.s.s between Cape Barren and the great northern island, intending to explore the west side of the latter in our way. At five o"clock breakers were seen two miles to the north, though no bottom could be found at 17 fathoms; at six, however, we fell suddenly into 3 fathoms; but hoping to find a sufficient depth for the sloop round the island which lies in the opening, stood on till the soundings diminished to nine feet, and breakers were seen all round ahead, from beam to beam.
It was then near sun-set, and the breeze right aft; but whilst I was considering what could be done for our safety, the wind shifted suddenly, as if by an act of Providence, to the opposite quarter, and enabled us to steer back, out of this dangerous place, with all sail. At nine o"clock the wind returned to the south-eastward, having just lasted long enough to take us out of danger; at eleven we had 20 fathoms; and in two hours more steered N. by W., for the Babel Isles, with a fresh and fair wind.
Jan 8, at six o"clock, Mr. Ba.s.s went on sh.o.r.e to the small, south~ eastern islet; whence he brought a boat load of seals and gannets.
Besides these, the islet is inhabited by geese, s.h.a.gs, penguins, gulls, and sooty petrels; each occupying its separate district, and using its own language. It was the confusion of noises amongst these various animals which induced me to give the name of _Babel Isles_ to this small cl.u.s.ter.
After taking on board our seals and gannets, we steered north-westward; and at one o"clock took a departure from the Sisters. I wished to make another effort to find the supposed Furneaux"s Land, represented to lie north of these islands and in lat.i.tude 39; but the wind being strong from the south-eastward, the course steered was N. by E. At eight o"clock we had pa.s.sed the 39th degree; and no land being visible, the course was then altered to north-east, for Cape Howe.
Jan. 9, the wind blew strong at S. S. E., with thick, hazy weather. At eight in the morning, high land was distinguished two points on the weather bow, and sand hills from thence to abaft the lee beam, not more than six or seven miles distant. We immediately hauled the wind to the eastward, and carried every sail the sloop could bear in such a sea as was then running. The land to windward was judged to be near the Ram Head; although our reckoning was 20" short in lat.i.tude, and we supposed ourselves to the eastward.
To make certain of clearing Cape Howe, the eastern course was prolonged until day-light of the 10th; we then bore away, and at noon were in lat.i.tude 37 5". On the 11th, the observation gave 34 30"; and the gale still continuing, we anch.o.r.ed within the heads of Port Jackson at ten o"clock the same evening, having exceeded, by no more than eleven days, the time which had been fixed for our return.
To the strait which had been the great object of research, and whose discovery was now completed, governor Hunter gave, at my recommendation, the name of Ba.s.s" STRAIT. This was no more than a just tribute to my worthy friend and companion, for the extreme dangers and fatigues he had undergone in first entering it in the whale boat, and to the correct judgment he had formed from various indications, of the existence of a wide opening between Van Diemen"s Land and New South Wales.
FLINDERS. 1799.
The success of this expedition favoured my views of further discovery; and the Reliance not being immediately wanted for service, His Excellency accepted a proposition to explore _Gla.s.s-house_ and _Hervey"s Bays_, two large openings to the northward, of which the entrances only were known.
I had some hope of finding a considerable river discharging itself at one of these openings, and of being able by its means to penetrate further into the interior of the country than had hitherto been effected.
The sloop Norfolk was again allotted to me, with nearly the same volunteer crew as before; and I was accompanied by Mr. S. W. Flinders, a midshipman of the Reliance, and by _Bongaree_, a native, whose good disposition and manly conduct had attracted my esteem. Of the a.s.sistance of my able friend Ba.s.s I was, however, deprived, he having quitted the station soon after our last voyage, to return to England. The time of my absence was limited by the governor to six weeks, some arrivals being then expected which might call the Reliance into active service.
(Atlas, Plate VIII.)
We sailed out of Port Jackson on July 8; and next morning came in with a part of the coast, north of Port Stephens, which captain Cook had pa.s.sed in the night.* Off a projection which I called _Sugar-loaf Point_, in lat.i.tude 32 29", lie two rocks to the south-eastward, at the distances of two and four miles. We pa.s.sed between these rocks and the point, and kept close in with the sh.o.r.e as far to the north as the hills called _Three Brothers_ by captain Cook, of which the northernmost and highest lies in lat.i.tude 31 43" south.
[* The journal of this expedition, delivered to governor Hunter on my return, having been published in great part by colonel Collins, the account here given will be brief, and almost wholly confined to nautical subjects. The reader who desires more information upon the lands visited, and upon their productions and inhabitants, is referred to the _Account of the English Colony in New South Wales_, Vol II. page 225 to 263.]
(Atlas, Plate IX.)
July 10, the observed lat.i.tude of 31 38" showed a set of 33" to the south; whereas it had the day before been 8" the contrary way. Our distance from the sh.o.r.e had then become six leagues, owing to a foul wind; but we got in with it again in the evening, and steered northward with a fair breeze. On the 11th we sailed amongst the Solitary Isles, of which five were added to the number before seen; and the s.p.a.ce from thence to twelve leagues northward having been pa.s.sed by captain Cook in the night, I continued to keep close in with the coast.
In lat.i.tude 29 43", we discovered a small opening like a river, with an islet lying in the entrance; and at sunset, entered a larger, to which I gave the name of SHOAL BAY, an appellation which it but too well merited.
On the south side of the entrance, which is the deepest, there is ten feet at low water; and within side, the depth is from 2 to 4 fathoms in a channel near the south sh.o.r.e: the rest of the bay is mostly occupied by shoals, over which boats can scarcely pa.s.s when the tide is out. High water appeared to take place about _seven hours after_ the moon"s pa.s.sage; at which time, a ship drawing not more than fourteen feet might venture in, if severely pressed. Shoal Bay is difficult to be found, except by its lat.i.tude, which is 29 26"; but there is on the low land about four leagues to the southward, a small hill somewhat peaked, which may serve as a mark to vessels coming from that direction.
July 12. The morning was employed in examining the bay, and in looking round the country. The sloop had sprung a bad leak, and I wished to have laid her on sh.o.r.e; but not finding a convenient place, nor any thing of particular interest to detain me longer, we sailed at one o"clock, when the tide began to rise. Cape Byron, in lat.i.tude 28 38", and the coast for twelve miles to the north and south, were pa.s.sed on the 13th: but no particular addition or correction could be made to captain Cook"s chart.
At Moreton Bay, further on, that navigator had left it in doubt whether there were any opening; and therefore we closed in again with the land at Point Look-out, on the 14th. At noon, the point bore S. 42 E., three or four miles, and a small flat islet E. 3 N. three miles; the opening in Moreton Bay was then evident, and bore W. N. W. It is small, and formed by two sandy points, beyond which a large extent of water was visible.
Our lat.i.tude at this time, was 27 24", giving that of Point Look-out to be 27 27" south. Captain Cook says it is "in lat.i.tude 27 6";" * a difference which probably arose from his having allowed for a strong northern current during the run of four or five hours from the preceding noon, whereas, in reality, none existed; for his course and distance by log, from the noon"s observation, would give the point in its true lat.i.tude.
[* _Hawkesworth"s Voyages_, Vol III. page 119.]
We stood on to within two miles of the opening in Moreton Bay; but seeing it blocked up by many shoals of sand, and the depth having diminished from 12 to 4 fathoms, the course was altered for Cape Moreton, which was visible seven or eight leagues to the northward. At eight in the evening, the anchor was dropped in 7 fathoms at the entrance of Gla.s.s-house Bay, Cape Moreton bearing E. S. E. two or three miles.
But little progress was made up the bay on the 15th, owing to the many shoals in it, and to a foul wind. At noon, the lat.i.tude of Cape Moreton was ascertained to be 27 0" south, and the longitude from distances of stars east and west of the moon, corrected by the observations at Greeenwich, was 153 25" east; being 4" south, and 7" west of its position by captain Cook. In the evening, when the lunar distances were observed, the sloop was at anchor in 11 fathoms on the west side of the entrance, within two miles of a low projection which an unfortunate occurrence afterwards caused to be named Point Skirmish.
On the 16th, whilst beating up amongst the shoals, an opening was perceived round the point; and being much in want of a place to lay the sloop on sh.o.r.e, on account of the leak, I tried to enter it; but not finding it accessible from the south, was obliged to make the examination with the boat, whilst the sloop lay at anchor five miles off. There was a party of natives on the point, and our communication was at first friendly; but after receiving presents they made an attack, and one of them was wounded by our fire. Proceeding up the opening, I found it to be more than a mile in width; and from the quant.i.ties of pumice stone on the borders, it was named _Pumice-stone River_. It led towards the remarkable peaks called the Gla.s.s Houses, which were now suspected to be volcanic, and excited my curiosity.
On board the sloop, the leak had, in the mean time, been found to arise from a plank having started from the timbers, at three or four streaks above the keel; and the open s.p.a.ce being filled up with oak.u.m from the inside, very little water came in; I therefore left the river and the Gla.s.s Houses for a future examination, and proceeded up the bay with the afternoon"s flood. On the 18th at noon, we had pa.s.sed two low islands surrounded with shoals, and were at anchor in 6 fathoms, abreast of a third. The south point of the opening from Moreton Bay then bore N. 77 E., ten miles; and the observed lat.i.tude being 27 27", confirmed the observation taken without side on the 14th. Next day, we beat up against a southern wind to a sixth island; but the shoals then became more numerous, and the channels between them so narrow, that it was very difficult to proceed further.
The lat.i.tude observed upon the sixth island was 27 35", being thirty-four miles south of Cape Moreton at the entrance of the bay. Above this island, the east and west sh.o.r.es, from being nine or ten miles apart, approach each other within two miles, and the s.p.a.ce between them takes the form of a river; but the entrance was too full of shoals to leave a hope of penetrating by it far into the interior, or that it could be of importance to navigation. Under this discouragement and that of a foul wind, all further research at the head of Gla.s.s-house Bay was given up; and I returned on board to seek in Pumice-stone River for a place to stop the leak, and the means of visiting the Gla.s.s Houses. On the 22nd, we got into the river after many difficulties, arising princ.i.p.ally from shoals in the entrance, which could only be pa.s.sed at high water. The place chosen for laying the sloop on sh.o.r.e was on the east side, five miles above Point Skirmish, at a small beach, close to which the depth was 7 fathoms.
July 25. The leaky plank being secured, and the sloop restowed and completed with water, we proceeded two miles further up the river, amongst mangrove islets and muddy flats. Next morning I landed on the west side, as far above the sloop as the boat could advance; and with my friend Bongaree and two sailors, steered north-westward for the Gla.s.shouse peaks. After nine miles of laborious walking, mostly through swamps or over a rocky country, we reached the top of a stony mount, from whence the highest peak was four miles distant to the north-west. Three or four leagues beyond it was a ridge of mountain, from which various small streams descend into Pumice-stone River; the princ.i.p.al place of their junction seeming to be at a considerable extent of water which bore N. 80 E., and was about six miles above the sloop. Early on the 27th, we reached the foot of the nearest Gla.s.s House, a flat-topped peak, one mile and a half north of the stony mount. It was impossible to ascend this almost perpendicular rock; and finding no marks of volcanic eruption, we returned to the boat, and to the sloop the same evening.
July 28, we proceeded down the river; but owing to strong winds and squalls from the south-east, did not clear it before the 31st. Some communications with the natives had been obtained whilst the sloop was lying on sh.o.r.e; and this detention afforded opportunities of repeating them. I am happy to say they were all friendly, which is attributable to their opinion of us having undergone a salutary change from the effect of our fire arms at Point Skirmish.
These people were evidently of the same race as those at Port Jackson, though speaking a language which Bongaree could not understand. They fish almost wholly with cast and setting nets, live more in society than the natives to the southward, and are much better lodged. Their spears are of solid wood, and used without the throwing stick. Two or three bark canoes were seen; but from the number of black swans in the river, of which eighteen were caught in our little boat, it should seem that these people are not dextrous in the management either of the canoe or spear.
The entrance of Gla.s.s-house Bay, from Point Skirmish to the inner part of Cape Moreton, is eight miles wide; but it contains so many shoals that a ship would have much difficulty in finding a pa.s.sage. These shoals are of sand, and in the channels between them are various depths from 5 to 13 fathoms upon similar ground; but towards the head of the bay, both on the shoals and in the deeper parts, the bottom is almost universally of mud.
The land on the borders of Pumice-stone River is low; and is either sandy or rocky, with a slight superficies of vegetable soil; yet not ill clothed with gra.s.s and wood. On the west side of Gla.s.s-house Bay, the appearance of the land was much similar, but with a diminution of sand in the upper part. The long slip on the east side, which I have called _Moreton Island_, as supposing it would have received that name from captain Cook, had he known of its insularity, is little else than a ridge of rocky hills, with a sandy surface; but the peninsula further south had some appearance of fertility. I judged favourably of the country on the borders of what seemed to be a river falling into the head of the bay, both from its thick covering of wood, and from the good soil of the sixth island, which lies at the entrance. The other islands in the bay are very low, and so surrounded with forests of large mangrove, that it must be difficult to land upon them. It was high water in Pumice-stone River, _nine hours and a half after_ the moon"s pa.s.sage over the meridian; and the rise of tide was from three to six feet, the night tide being much the highest.
July 31, we sailed out of Pumice-stone River; and by keeping near the sh.o.r.e of Point Skirmish had generally 6 fathoms; but two narrow shoals were pa.s.sed upon which the depth was only twelve feet. At noon, when the east extreme of the point bore S. 40 W. one mile and a half, the observed lat.i.tude was 27 4", and depth 10 fathoms; but before one o"clock, it suddenly diminished to 3; and during five miles run to the N.
N. E., varied from that to 6 fathoms. It then deepened to 9, and the outer edge of the shoals, a well-defined line of discoloured water, was seen stretching S. 60 E. for Cape Moreton. At five o"clock, the top of the highest Gla.s.s House, appearing like a small peak upon the mountainous ridge behind, bore S. 62 W., and Cape Moreton S. 11 E. twenty-two miles. The cape was then disappearing from the deck; whence its elevation should be between three and four hundred feet above the sea.
(Atlas, Plate X.)
August 2 at noon, the eastern extremity of Sandy Cape bore N. 51 W., six miles, and its lat.i.tude was found to be 24 42", being three minutes north of its situation by captain Cook. In running northward, within two or three miles of the edge of Break-sea Spit, we had 12 fathoms; and at five o"clock, pa.s.sed over the end of the spit in 3; Sandy Cape then bearing S. 9 E. six leagues. The water deepened almost immediately to more than 17 fathoms; and in keeping close to a south-east wind, up Hervey"s Bay, the depth was from 20 to 14, during the night.
On the 3rd, the wind veered to S. S. W; and at noon the anchor was dropped in 17 fathoms, with the extreme of Sandy Cape bearing N. 66 E.
seven or eight miles. The observed lat.i.tude was 24 45 1/3", and a tide of one mile per hour came from the southward. A fair wind sprung up in the afternoon, and we ran five leagues by log in a S. by W. direction, anchoring at dusk in 11 fathoms, sandy bottom.
Aug. 4 was employed in beating up along the eastern sh.o.r.e, against a south-west wind. At three leagues above the anchorage, our progress was stopped by a ma.s.s of shoals which seemed to preclude all further access towards the head of the bay on that side. In the night, we stretched north-westward, to get round them; and in the evening of the 5th, anch.o.r.ed in 5 fathoms, three or four miles from the western sh.o.r.e.
Aug. 6. The wind being off the land, we followed the line of the coast upwards, as close as the shoals would allow; and before noon entered an opening formed by the western sh.o.r.e on one side, and an island of moderate height, three or four miles long, on the other. The opening was not more than two miles wide, and was still further contracted by a low islet in the middle, surrounded with shallow banks. There was a large expanse of water above; but we had not advanced two miles before shoal water obliged us to tack; and after having tried for a channel in every direction, without success, I anch.o.r.ed in 3 fathoms, half a mile north-west from the low islet, and landed.