[EAST COAST. TOWARDS TORRES" STRAIT.]
THURSDAY 21 OCTOBER 1802
The last reefs were out of sight in the evening of Oct. 21, and our course was continued for Torres" Strait; but the barrier was yet at too little distance, not to cause apprehension of straggling reefs; and I thought it too hazardous to run in the night, during this pa.s.sage.
At noon of the 22d [FRIDAY 22 OCTOBER 1802], our lat.i.tude was 16 39", longitude 148 43", and there was no bottom at 150 fathoms (Atlas, Plate XII.); nor was any thing unusual to be seen, unless it were tropic and man-of-war birds, and gannets. The _Bature de Diane_ of Mons. de Bougainville should lie about thirty-eight leagues to the N. E. by E., and his western reefs about twenty-eight leagues to the N. N. W. W., of this situation; and to them, or perhaps some nearer banks, the birds might probably belong.* A piece of land is marked to the south-west of the first reefs, but its existence is very doubtful; for all that M. de Bougainville says of it (II, 163) is, that "some even thought they saw low land to the south-west of the breakers."
[* Bougainville"s longitude of the north end of Aurora Island, one of his _Archipel de Grandes Cyclades_ (the New Hebrides of Cook), differed 54"
of longitude to the east of captain Cook"s position; and it seems very probable that it was as much too great when the above dangers were discovered. Admitting this to be the case, the situations extracted from his voyage (II, 161, 164) will be as under: Bature de Diane 15 41" south 150 25" east of Greenwich.
Reef 15 34 148 6 Second reef, 15 17 147 57 ]
SAt.u.r.dAY 23 OCTOBER 1802
Next day at noon, we were in 15 12" south, and 149 2" east; the current had set half a knot to the N. N. W., and many of the former kinds of birds, as also b.o.o.bies and petrels, were seen. Hitherto we had kept up nearly to the wind, in order to gain an offing from the coast and Barrier Reefs; but next morning [SUNDAY 24 OCTOBER 1802] the course was directed N. W. At noon, lat.i.tude 13 47", longitude 148 39": many b.o.o.bies seen, and some petrels and tropic birds. On the 25th [MONDAY 25 OCTOBER 1802], a s.h.a.g flew round the ship, and a large flock of petrels was seen: lat.i.tude at noon, 12 55", longitude 147 23", and the current setting more than a mile an hour to the west (Atlas, Plate XIII.). At eight in the evening, when we hauled to the wind, there was no bottom at 130 fathoms.
WEDNESDAY 27 OCTOBER 1802
In the morning of the 27th, a small land bird, resembling a linnet, was seen; at noon we were in 10 28" south and 146 7" east, and the current had set W. N. W., three quarters of a mile an hour, since the 25th. The wind, which had been at south-east, then shifted suddenly to north, and blew fresh with squally weather; but at midnight it veered to south-east again. These changes were accompanied with thunder, lightning and rain; indications, as I feared, of the approaching north-west monsoon. We lay to, during a part of the night; and at day-break [THURSDAY 28 OCTOBER 1802] bore away again upon our north western course. At eight o"clock, breakers were seen extending from S. W. by W. to N. by. E., distant from two to six miles; there was a small gap in them, bearing N. by W. W., but we hauled up north-east, to windward of the whole, and made more sail. I ventured to bear away at ten; and at noon our lat.i.tude was 9 51"
36", and longitude 145 45" by time keeper. No reefs were then in sight; but in steering west, we pa.s.sed through a rippling of tide or current, and a single breaker was seen from the mast head, at three o"clock, bearing S. W. four or five miles.
These reefs lie nearly a degree to the eastward of those first seen by the captains Edwards and Bligh, when entering Torres" Strait; for the north-eastern extreme lies in 10 2" south, and 145 45" east. From this position, the eastern line of the breakers extended ten or twelve miles to the S. S. W., and the single breaker afterwards seen, lies about six leagues to the W. N. W.; but how far they may be connected, or what the extent of the reefs may be to the south-west, could not be seen. In the belief that this was the first discovery of these coral banks, I called them the _Eastern Fields_; intending thereby to designate their position with respect to the other reefs of Torres" Strait.
Our lat.i.tude at noon was exactly that of the opening by which captain Edwards of the Pandora had entered the Strait in 1791; and which I call the _Pandora"s Entrance_. This opening appeared to be preferable to that further northward, by which captain Bligh and Mr. Bampton had got within the reefs; more especially as it led directly for Murray"s Islands, where, if possible, I intended to anchor. Our course was therefore steered west; and seeing no more reefs, it was continued until eight in the evening, at which time we hauled to the wind, having no bottom at 105 fathoms.
FRIDAY 29 OCTOBER 1802
At daylight, after sounding ineffectually with 100 fathoms, we bore away on our western course. Two reefs were seen at six o"clock; the one bearing N. by W. W. three, and the other W. by N. N. four miles. They seemed to be small, and unconnected; but in all probability were parts of those which form the north side of the Pandora"s Entrance, and which captain Bligh, who saw them more to the northward, named collectively, Portlock"s Reef. The situation of the southernmost part, deduced from the preceding and following noons, will be 9 48" south, and 144 45" east.
[EAST COAST. TORRES" STRAIT.]
After pa.s.sing these reefs, our course was west, by compa.s.s; and nothing further was descried till eleven o"clock; breakers then came in sight ahead, and we hauled up north-east, till noon; when the observed lat.i.tude from both sides was 9 36" 55", longitude 144 13", and the depth 50 fathoms on a bottom of fine, white sand. The reef was distant one mile and a half in the nearest part, and three miles at the extremes, which bore N. 15 E. and S. 60 W.; a sand bank or key upon it bore W. S., and is probably dry at all times, for it was then near high water.
Finding by the lat.i.tude that we had been set considerably to the north, and were out of the parallel of Murray"s Islands, I tacked to the S. S.
W.; and at two o"clock, the largest island was seen bearing S. 38 W.
about five leagues. Soon afterward, a reef came in sight to the south-east, extending in patches toward the islands; and presently another was distinguished to the westward, from the mast head, which took nearly a parallel direction, the pa.s.sage between them being about four miles wide. We steered along the lee side of the eastern reef, at the distance of a mile, with soundings from 29 to 24 fathoms, coral sand, until four o"clock; the reef then trended more southward, and we edged away for the islands, of which Mr. Westall sketched the appearance (Atlas Plate XVIII. View 10). At half past five, the largest island bore S. 36 E. to 28 W., one mile and a half; and there being more reefs coming in sight to the westward, the anchor was immediately let go in 20 fathoms, coa.r.s.e sand and sh.e.l.ls. The north and east sides of the island are surrounded by a reef, which may probably include the two smaller isles on its southwest side; but it is totally unconnected with the reefs to the north-east. These appear to be a northern continuation of the vast bank, on the outside of which the Pandora sailed as far as 11 south, and in the chart of captain Edwards" track, published by Mr. Dalrymple, it is marked as surrounding the islands; whereas it is at least four miles distant from the reef which probably does surround them.
A number of poles standing up in various places, more especially between the islands, appeared at a distance like the masts of canoes, and made me apprehend that the inhabitants of the Strait had collected a fleet here; but on approaching nearer, the poles were found to be upon the reefs, and were probably set up for some purpose connected with fishing. We had scarcely anch.o.r.ed when between forty and fifty Indians came off, in three canoes. They would not come along-side of the ship, but lay off at a little distance, holding up cocoa nuts, joints of bamboo filled with water, plantains, bows and arrows, and vociferating _tooree! tooree!_ and _mammoosee!_ A barter soon commenced, and was carried on in this manner: a hatchet, or other piece of iron (tooree) being held up, they offered a bunch of green plantains, a bow and quiver of arrows, or what they judged would be received in exchange; signs of acceptance being made, the Indian leaped overboard with his barter, and handed it to a man who went down the side to him; and receiving his hatchet, swam back to the canoe. Some delivered their articles without any distrust of the exchange, but this was not always the case. Their eagerness to get tooree was great, and at first, any thing of that same metal was received; but afterwards, if a nail were held up to an Indian, he shook his head, striking the edge of his right hand upon the left arm, in the att.i.tude of chopping; and he was well enough understood.
At sunset, two of the canoes returned to Murray"s Island, paddling to windward with more velocity than one of our boats could have rowed; the third set a narrow, upright sail, between two masts in the fore part of the canoe, and steered north-westward, as I judged, for the Darnley"s Island of captain Bligh.
I did not forget that the inhabitants of these islands had made an attack upon the Providence and a.s.sistant in 1792 (Vol I, Introduction*); nor that Mr. Bampton had some people cut off at Darnley"s Island in 1793 (Vol I, Introduction**). The marines were therefore kept under arms, the guns clear, and matches lighted; and officers were stationed to watch every motion, one to each canoe, so long as they remained near the ship. Bows and arrows were contained in all the canoes; but no intention of hostility was manifested by the Indians, unless those who steered for Darnley"s Island might be supposed to go for a.s.sistance.
[* "On the 5th, boats were again sent to sound the pa.s.sage. Several large sailing canoes were seen; and the cutter making the signal for a.s.sistance, the pinnace was sent to her, well manned and armed. On the return of the boats in the afternoon, it appeared, that, of four canoes which used their efforts to get up to the cutter, one succeeded... ."]
[** "After having gone entirely round the island, and seen nothing of the object of his research, Mr. Dell returned to the first cove; where a great concourse of natives, armed with bows, arrows, clubs, and lances, were a.s.sembled at the outskirt of the wood... ."]
[SAt.u.r.dAY 30 OCTOBER 1802]
We did not get under way in the morning, until the sun was high enough for alt.i.tudes to be taken for the time keepers. Soon after daylight, the natives were with us again, in seven canoes; some of them came under the stern, and fifteen or twenty of the people ascended on board, bringing in their hands pearl-oyster sh.e.l.ls and necklaces of cowries; with which, and some bows and arrows, they obtained more of the precious _tooree_.
Wishing to secure the friendship and confidence of these islanders to such vessels as might hereafter pa.s.s through Torres" Strait, and not being able to distinguish any chief amongst them, I selected the oldest man, and presented him with a hand-saw, a hammer and nails, and some other trifles; of all which we attempted to show him the use, but I believe without success; for the poor old man became frightened, on finding himself to be so particularly noticed.
At this time we began to heave short for weighing, and made signs to the Indians to go down into their canoes, which they seemed unwilling to comprehend; but on the seamen going aloft to loose the sails, they went hastily down the stern ladder and ship"s sides, and shoved off; and before the anchor was up they paddled back to the sh.o.r.e, without our good understanding having suffered any interruption.
The colour of these Indians is a dark chocolate; they are active, muscular men, about the middle size, and their countenances expressive of a quick apprehension. Their features and hair appeared to be similar to those of the natives of New South Wales, and they also go quite naked; but some of them had ornaments of sh.e.l.l work, and of plaited hair or fibres of bark, about their waists, necks, and ancles. Our friend Bongaree could not understand any thing of their language, nor did they pay much attention to him; he seemed, indeed, to feel his own inferiority, and made but a poor figure amongst them. The arms of these people have been described in the voyage of captain Bligh (Vol I, Introduction*); as also the canoes., of which the annexed plate, from a drawing by Mr. Westall, gives a correct representation. The two masts, when not wanted, are laid along the gunwales; when set up, they stand abreast of each other in the fore part of the canoe, and seemed to be secured by one set of shrouds, with a stay from one mast head to the other. The sail is extended between them; but when going with a side wind, the lee mast is brought aft by a back stay, and the sail then stands obliquely. In other words, they brace up by setting in the head of the lee mast, and perhaps the foot also; and can then lie within seven points of the wind, and possibly nearer. This was their mode, so far as a distant view would admit of judging; but how these long canoes keep to the wind, and make such way as they do, without any after sail, I am at a loss to know.
[* "Their arms were bows, arrows, and clubs, which they bartered for every kind of iron work with eagerness; but appeared to set little value on any thing else. The bows are made of split bamboo; and so strong, that no man in the ship could bend one of them. The string is a broad slip of cane, fixed to one end of the bow; and fitted with a noose, to go over the other end, when strung. The arrow is a cane of about four feet long, into which a pointed piece of the hard, heavy, _casuarina_ wood, is firmly and neatly fitted; and some of them were barbed. Their clubs are made of the _casuarina_, and are powerful weapons. The hand part is indented, and has a small k.n.o.b, by which the firmness of the grasp is much a.s.sisted; and the heavy end is usually carved with some device: One had the form of a parrot"s head, with a ruff round the neck; and was not ill done."]
Murray"s largest island is nearly two miles long, by something more than one in breadth; it is rather high land, and the hill at its western end may be seen from a ship"s deck at the distance of eight or nine leagues, in a clear day. The two smaller isles seemed to be single hills, rising abruptly from the sea, and to be scarcely accessible; nor did we see upon them any fires, or other marks of inhabitants. On the sh.o.r.es of the large island were many huts, surrounded by palisades, apparently of bamboo; cocoa-nut trees were abundant, both on the low grounds and the sides of the hills, and plantains, with some other fruits, had been brought to us.
There were many Indians sitting in groups upon the sh.o.r.e, and the seven canoes which came off to the ship in the morning, contained from ten to twenty men each, or together, about a hundred. If we suppose these hundred men to have been one half of what belonged to the islands, and to the two hundred men add as many women and three hundred children, the population of Murray"s Isles will amount to seven hundred; of which nearly the whole must belong to the larger island.
The _lat.i.tude_ of the highest hill, deduced from that of the ship at the following noon, is 9 54" south, and _longitude_ by the time keeper corrected, 144 2" east; being 3" north, and 20" east of its position by captain Edwards. A regular tide of about one knot an hour set E. by S.
and W. by N., past the ship; and by her swinging, it was high water at half an hour after midnight, or about _ten hours and a half after_ the moon had pa.s.sed over the meridian. The bottom seemed to be loose at our anchorage; but were these islands examined, it is probable that better ground and shelter would be found on their western sides. I distinguished from the mast head the north end of a reef, three miles distant to the W.
N. W.; but could not see whether it joined the reef surrounding the large island. At N. N. W. W. four miles, was the south-west end of another reef; and when we got under way at half past eight in the morning, our course was directed between the two.
Ripplings of a suspicious appearance caused the whale boat to be kept ahead for some time; but finding no ground upon them with 30 fathoms, and the breeze becoming fresh, the boat was called on board. At 9h 40" the following bearings were taken:
Darnley"s Island, highest part, N. 39 W.
Murray"s Islands, the largest, S. 58 to 40 E.
Murray"s Islands, two smaller, nearly touching, S. 36 to 27 E.
Rippling off the N. end of a reef, dist. mile, S. W. W.
East end of a reef, distant 1 miles, N. 6 E.
Mr. Westall"s second view of Murray"s Isles was taken from this position.
(Atlas Pl. XVIII. View 11.)
Knowing the difficulties experienced by captain Bligh and Mr. Bampton in the northern part of the strait, I kept as much up to the southward, for Cape York, as the direction of the reefs would admit. On the windward side, we had a long chain of them extending W. S. W. to a great distance; but its breadth was not great, as the blue water was seen beyond it, from the mast head. On the north side there was no regular chain, and but one reef of much extent; small patches were indeed announced every now and then, from aloft, but these did not cause us much impediment; the greatest was from two right in our track; but being a mile apart, we pa.s.sed between them at eleven o"clock.
[NORTH COAST. TORRES" STRAIT.]
Until noon, we had no soundings with from 25 to 30 fathoms of line, but then found broken coral and sh.e.l.ls at the latter depth; the great reefs to windward were two or three miles distant, stretching south-west, and our situation and bearings were as under:
Lat.i.tude observed, 9 53" S.
Longitude from time keeper, 143 42 E.
Murray"s Isles, the largest, highest part, S. 88 E.
Murray"s Isles, the westernmost, highest part, S. 81 E.
Darnley"s I., highest part, obscure, N. 10 E.
A small, low isle, To the westward.
Nearest reef, distant two miles, S. 67 to N. 43 W.
Having a fresh breeze at S. E. by E, we ran at the rate of six knots, following the chain of reefs lying to windward. On the other side, there were still very few reefs; but several low isles were distinguished, similar to that seen at noon; these were small, but seemingly well covered with wood, and appertain, as I judge, to the group called by Mr.
Bampton, Cornwallis" Range. At half past two, we pa.s.sed between reefs one mile and a half asunder, having no ground at 25 fathoms; and then the chain which had been followed from Murray"s Isles, either terminated or took a more southern direction. Another small, woody isle was then in sight, nearly in our track, at four it bore N. 67 W., two-and-half miles; and not seeing any other island ahead to afford shelter for the night, we bore away round the south end of its reef, and came to an anchor in 17 fathoms, coral sand.
Cent. of the island, dist. 1 miles, bore, S. 83 E.
The surrounding reef, N. 78 to S. 12 E.
A woody isle, westmost of five seen this p. m., N. 9 W.
A dry sand, set from the mast head, S. W. S.