Friday 22.
The next day the wind came round to the north and north-west so that we could no longer consider ourselves in the tradewind. Our lat.i.tude at noon was 25 degrees 55 minutes south, longitude 36 degrees 29 minutes west.
Variation of the compa.s.s three degrees east.
Sat.u.r.day 23.
Towards night the wind died away and we had some heavy showers of rain of which we profited by saving a ton of good water. The next day we caught a shark and five dolphins.
Tuesday 26.
We bent new sails and made other necessary preparations for encountering the weather that was to be expected in a high lat.i.tude. Our lat.i.tude at noon was 29 degrees 38 minutes south, longitude 41 degrees 44 minutes west. Variation 7 degrees 13 minutes east. In the afternoon, the wind being westerly and blowing strong in squalls, some b.u.t.terflies and other insects like what we call horseflies were blown on board of us. No birds were seen except shearwaters. Our distance from the coast of Brazil at this time was above 100 leagues.
March. Sunday 2.
In the forenoon, after seeing that every person was clean, divine service was performed according to my usual custom on this day. I gave to Mr.
Fletcher Christian, whom I had before directed to take charge of the third watch, a written order to act as lieutenant.
Sat.u.r.day 8.
We were at noon in lat.i.tude 36 degrees 50 minutes south and longitude 52 degrees 53 minutes west. The last four days we several times tried for soundings without finding bottom, though considerably to the westward of Captain Wallis" track, who had soundings at fifty-four fathoms depth in lat.i.tude 35 degrees 40 minutes south and longitude 49 degrees 54 minutes west. This day we tried with two hundred and forty fathoms of line but did not find bottom; at the same time, observing a rippling in the water, we tried the current by mooring a keg with one hundred fathoms of line, by which it appeared to run to the north-north-west at the rate of a mile and a half per hour. By the noon observation however we were eighteen miles to the southward of our reckoning. In the afternoon we saw a turtle floating and, not having much wind, hoisted a boat out and sent after it; but it was found to be in a putrid state with a number of crabs feeding upon it.
The change of temperature began now to be sensibly felt, there being a variation in the thermometer since yesterday of eight degrees. That the people might not suffer by their own negligence I gave orders for their light tropical clothing to be put by, and made them dress in a manner more suited to a cold climate. I had provided for this before I left England by giving directions for such clothes to be purchased as were necessary.
Monday 10.
In the forenoon we struck soundings at eighty-three fathoms depth; our lat.i.tude 40 degrees 8 minutes south and longitude 55 degrees 40 minutes west. This I conclude to have been near the edge of the bank for, the wind being at south-south-west, we stood towards the south-east; and after running fourteen miles in that direction we could find no bottom with one hundred and sixty fathoms of line. In the night we stood towards the west-south-west with a southerly wind and got again into soundings.
The next day we saw a great number of whales of an immense size that had two spout-holes on the back of the head. Upon a complaint made to me by the master I found it necessary to punish Matthew Quintal, one of the seamen, with two dozen lashes for insolence and mutinous behaviour.
Before this I had not had occasion to punish any person on board.
Wednesday 12.
On the 12th we caught a porpoise by striking it with the grains. Everyone eat heartily of it; and it was so well liked that no part was wasted.
Friday 14.
On the 14th in the afternoon we saw a land-bird like a lark, and pa.s.sed part of a dead whale that had been left by some whalers after they had taken the blubber off. Saw likewise two strange sail. The next day at noon our lat.i.tude was 43 degrees 6 minutes south and longitude 58 degrees 42 minutes west. Had soundings at seventy-five fathoms; the bottom a fine greenish sand. Saw two hawks.
Sunday 16.
On the 16th another ship was seen to the west-north-west standing to the northward. Lat.i.tude at noon 43 degrees 34 minutes south. We continued running to the southward keeping in soundings.
Wednesday 19.
On the 19th at noon by my account we were within twenty leagues of Port Desire; but the wind blowing fresh from the north-west with thick foggy weather I did not attempt to make the land. We pa.s.sed a good deal of rock-weed and saw many whales, and albatrosses and other seabirds.
Thursday 20.
On the 20th at noon our lat.i.tude was 50 degrees 24 minutes south and longitude 65 degrees 50 minutes west. In the afternoon the wind, which had for some time past been northerly, suddenly shifted to the west-south-west and blew hard.
Sunday 23.
We steered to the south-south-east and on the 23rd at two o"clock in the morning we discovered the coast of Tierra del Fuego bearing south-east.
At nine in the forenoon we were off Cape St. Diego, the eastern part of Tierra del Fuego. Observed the variation here to be 21 degrees 23 east.
The wind being unfavourable I thought it more advisable to go round to the eastward of Staten Land than to attempt pa.s.sing through Straits le Maire. The two opposite coasts of the Straits exhibited very different appearances. The land of Tierra del Fuego hereabouts, though the interior parts are mountainous, yet near the coast is of a moderate height and, at the distance we were from it, had not an unpromising appearance. The coast of Staten Land near the Straits is mountainous and craggy, and remarkable for its high peaked hills. Straits le Maire is a fair opening which cannot well be mistaken; but if any doubt could remain, the different appearances of the opposite sh.o.r.es would sufficiently make the Straits known.
I did not sail within less than six leagues of the coast that we might have the wind more regular and avoid being exposed to the heavy squalls that came off from the land. At noon Cape St. Anthony bore south and the westernmost of New Year"s Isles south-east one-quarter south, five or six leagues. Lat.i.tude observed 54 degrees 28 minutes south, longitude 64 degrees 4 minutes west.
The sight of New Year"s Harbour almost tempted me to put in; but the lateness of the season and the people being in good health determined me to lay aside all thoughts of refreshment until we should reach Otaheite.
At two o"clock in the afternoon the easternmost of New Year"s Isles, where Captain Cook observed the lat.i.tude to be 55 degrees 40 minutes south, bore from us south four leagues. We saw the entrance isles of New Year"s harbour at the back of which the land is very craggy and mountainous. This must be a very convenient port to touch at as the access to it is safe and easy. The harbour lies south-south-east by compa.s.s from the north-east part of the easternmost of the New Year"s Islands.
About two leagues to the westward of Cape St. John I observed the separation of the mountains that Captain Cook has taken notice of, which has the appearance of Staten Land being there divided into two islands.
At sunset Cape St. John bore south-south-east five or six leagues. The land hereabouts is of less height and not so rugged as near New Year"s Harbour. The night coming on I could get no good view of the coast near the Cape; and at daylight next morning we were at too great a distance.
Monday 24.
We had stood to the southward all night with the wind at west-south-west and south-west. At eight in the morning Cape St. John bore north-west ten leagues distant. Soon after we lost sight of the land.
From the result of my lunar observations, a.s.sisted by the timekeeper, I make the longitude of the west side of Straits le Maire 64 degrees 48 minutes west; the easternmost of the New Year"s isles 63 degrees 52 minutes west; and the longitude of Cape St. John 63 degrees 19 minutes west.
In our run from the lat.i.tude of 12 degrees south to 48 degrees south the ship was set 2 degrees 30 minutes to the eastward by currents; and from the lat.i.tude of 48 degrees south to Staten Land the currents set us to the westward 2 degrees 43 minutes; which I imagine to have been occasioned by an indraught into the Straits of Magellan.
From the time we lost sight of the land to the end of the month we were struggling with bad weather and contrary winds.
Monday 31.
But on the morning of the 31st the wind came to the north-north-east and made us entertain great hopes that we should be able to accomplish our pa.s.sage round the Cape without much difficulty. At noon we were in lat.i.tude 60 degrees 1 minute south and in 71 degrees 45 minutes west longitude, which is 8 degrees 26 minutes west of the meridian of Cape St.
John. This flattering appearance was not of long continuance: in the night the wind became variable and next day settled again in the west and north-west with very bad weather.
April. Wednesday 2.
On the 2nd in the morning the wind, which had blown fresh all night from the north-west, came round to the south-west and increased to a heavy gale. At six in the morning the storm exceeded what I had ever met with before; and the sea, from the frequent shifting of the wind, running in contrary directions, broke exceeding high. Our ship however lay to very well under a main and fore-stay sail. The gale continued with severe squalls of hail and sleet the remainder of this and all the next day.
Friday 4.
On the 4th the wind was less violent but far from moderate. With so much bad weather I found it necessary to keep a constant fire night and day; and one of the watch always attended to dry the people"s wet clothes: and this I have no doubt contributed as much to their health as to their comfort.
Our companions in this in hospitable region were albatrosses and two beautiful kinds of birds, the small blue petrel and pintada. A great many of these were frequently about the wake of the ship, which induced the people to float a line with hooks baited to endeavour to catch them and their attempts were successful. The method they used was to fasten the bait a foot or two before the hook and, by giving the line a sudden jerk when the bird was at the bait, it was hooked in the feet or body.
Sunday 6.
On the 6th the weather was moderate and continued so till the 9th with the wind veering between the north-west and south-west; of which we were able to take advantage.
Monday 7.
On the 7th observed the variation 27 degrees 9 minutes east; our lat.i.tude 60 degrees 24 minutes south and longitude 75 degrees 54 minutes west.
Wednesday 9.