The vegetation is all of tropical luxuriance, and, owing to its constant dew and mist baths, it is of an intense and vivid green that is fairly dazzling where the sun touches it. One of the chief charms of the wooded reserve is its stillness--broken only by the musical rush of waters and the lyrical notes of birds. A kind of lavender twilight abides beneath the trees, and, with the narrow, spruce-aisled vistas that open at every turn, gives one a sensation as of being in some dim and scented cathedral.
Enticing paths lead away from the main road to the river, where the voices of rapids and cataracts call; but at last one comes to an open s.p.a.ce, so closely walled round on all sides by the forest that it may easily be pa.s.sed without being seen--and to which one makes his way with difficulty, pushing aside branches of trees and tall ferns as he proceeds.
Here, producing an effect that is positively uncanny, are several great totems, shining out brilliantly from their dark green setting.
One experiences that solemn feeling which every one has known, as of standing among the dead; the shades of Baranoff, Behring, Lisiansky, Veniaminoff, Chirikoff,--all the unknown murdered ones, too,--go drifting noiselessly, with reproachful faces, through the dim wood.
It was on the beach near this grove of totems that Lisiansky"s men were murdered by Koloshians in 1804, while obtaining water for the ship.
The Sitka Industrial Training School was founded nearly thirty years ago by ex-Governor Brady, who was then a missionary to the Indians of Alaska.
It was first attended by about one hundred natives, ranging from the very young to the very old. This school was continued, with varied success, by different people--including Captain Gla.s.s, of the _Jamestown_--until Dr. Sheldon Jackson became interested, and, with Mr.
Brady and Mr. Austin, sought and obtained aid from the Board of Home Missions of the Presbyterian Church.
A building was erected for a Boys" Home, and this was followed, a year later, by a Girls" Home.
The girls were taught to speak the English language, cook, wash, iron, sew, mend, and to become cleanly, cheerful, honest, honorable women.
The boys were taught to speak the English language; the trades of shoemaking, coopering, boat-building, carpentry, engineering, rope-making, and all kinds of agricultural work. The rudiments of bricklaying, painting, and paper-hanging are also taught.
During the year 1907 a Bible Training Department was added for those among the older boys and girls who desired to obtain knowledge along such lines, or who aspired to take up missionary work among their people.
Twelve pupils took up the work, and six continued it throughout the year. The work in this department is, of course, voluntary on the part of the student.
The Sitka Training School is not, at present, a government school.
During the early nineties it received aid from the government, under the government"s method of subsidizing denominational schools, where they were already established, instead of incurring the extra expense of establishing new government schools in the same localities.
When the government ceased granting such subsidies, the Sitka School--as well as many other denominational schools--lost this a.s.sistance.
The property of the school has always belonged to the Presbyterian Board of Home Missions.
For many years it was customary to keep pupils at the schools from their entrance until their education was finished.
In the summer of 1905 the experiment was tried of permitting a few pupils to go to their homes during vacation. All returned in September cheerfully and willingly; and now, each summer, more than seventy boys and girls return to their homes to spend the time of vacation with their families.
In former years, it would have been too injurious to the child to be subjected to the influence of its parents, who were but slightly removed from savagery. To-day, although many of the old heathenish rites and customs still exist, they have not so deep a hold upon the natives; and it is hoped, and expected, that the influence of the students for good upon their people will far exceed that of their people for ill upon them.
During the past year ninety boys and seventy-four girls were enrolled--or as many as can be accommodated at the schools. They represent the three peoples into which the Indians of southeastern Alaska are now roughly divided--the Thlinkits, the Haidahs, and the Tsimpsians. They come from Katalla, Yakutat, Skagway, Klukwan, Haines, Douglas, Juneau, Kasa-an, Howkan, Metlakahtla, Hoonah--and, indeed, from almost every point in southeastern Alaska where a handful of Indians are gathered together.
CHAPTER XVIII
The many people who innocently believe that there are no birds in Alaska may be surprised to learn that there are, at least, fifty different species in the southeastern part of that country.
Among these are the song sparrow, the rufous humming-bird, the western robin, of unfailing cheeriness, the russet-backed thrush, the barn swallow, the golden-crowned kinglet, the Oregon Junco, the winter wren, and the bird that, in liquid clearness and poignant sweetness of note, is second only to the western meadow-lark--the poetic hermit thrush.
He that has heard the impa.s.sioned notes of this shy bird rising from the woods of Sitka will smile at the a.s.sertion that there are no birds in Alaska.
On the way to Indian River is the museum, whose interesting and valuable contents were gathered chiefly by Sheldon Jackson, and which still bears his name.
Dr. Jackson has been the general Agent of Education in Alaska since 1885, and the Superintendent of Presbyterian Missions since 1877. His work in Alaska in early years was, undoubtedly, of great value.
The museum stands in an evergreen grove, not far from the road. Here may be found curios and relics of great value. It is to be regretted, however, that many of the articles are labelled with the names of collectors instead of those of the real donors--at least, this is the information voluntarily given me by some of the donors.
In the collection is an interesting war bonnet, which was donated by Chief Kath-le-an, who planned and carried out the siege of 1878.
It was owned by one of Kath-le-an"s ancestors. It is made of wood, carved into a raven"s head. It has been worked and polished until the sh.e.l.l is more like velvet than wood, and is dyed black.
It was many years ago a polite custom of the Thlinkits to paint and oil the face of a visitor, as a matter of hospitality and an indication of friendly feeling and respect.
A visitor from another tribe to Sitka fell ill and died, shortly after having been so oiled and honored, and his people claimed that the oil was rancid,--or that some evil spell had been oiled into him,--and a war arose.
The Sitka tribe began the preparation of the raven war bonnet and worked upon it all summer, while actual hostilities were delayed.
As winter came on, Kath-le-an"s ancestor one day addressed his young men, telling them that the new war bonnet on his head would serve as a talisman to carry them to a glorious victory over their enemies.
Through the battle that followed, the war bonnet was everywhere to be seen in the centre of the most furious fighting. Only once did it go down, and then only for a moment, when the chief struggled to his feet; and as his young men saw the symbol of victory rising from the dust, the thrill of renewed hope that went through them impelled them forward in one splendid, simultaneous movement that won the day.
In 1804 Kath-le-an himself wore the hat when his people were besieged for many days by the Russians.
On this occasion the spell of the war bonnet was broken; and upon his utter defeat, Kath-le-an, feeling that it had lost its charm for good luck, buried the unfortunate symbol in the woods.
Many years afterward Kath-le-an exhumed the hat and presented it to the museum.
"We will hereafter dwell in peace with the white people," he said; "so my young men will never again need the war bonnet."
Kath-le-an has to this day kept his word. He is still alive, but is nearly ninety years old.
Interesting stories and myths are connected with a large number of the relics in the museum--to which the small admission fee of fifty cents is asked.
One of the early picturesque block-houses built by the Russians still stands in a good state of preservation on a slight eminence above the town, on the way to the old cemetery.
The story of the lowering of the Russian flag, and the hoisting of the American colors at Sitka, is fraught with significance to the superst.i.tious.
The steamship _John L. Stevens_, carrying United States troops from San Francisco, arrived in Sitka Harbor on the morning of October 9, 1867.
The gunboats _Jamestown_ and _Resaca_ had already arrived and were lying at anchor. The _Ossipee_ did not enter the harbor until the morning of the eighteenth.
At three o"clock of the same day the command of General Jefferson C.
Davis, about two hundred and fifty strong, in full uniform, armed and handsomely equipped, were landed, and marched to the heights where the famous Governor"s Castle stood. Here they were met by a company of Russian soldiers who took their place upon the left of the flagstaff.
The command of General Davis formed on the right. The United States flag, which was to float for the first time in possession of Sitka, was in the care of a color guard--a lieutenant, a sergeant, and ten men.
Besides the officers and troops, there were present the Prince and Princess Matsukoff, many Russian and American residents, and some interested Indians.