Having a great desire to visit, I was soon before the officer of the day, thence to Captain Hood, and the request granted. With a loaf of bread and tin cup in my haversack, we started.
Delayed till 8 A. M. waiting for pa.s.s to go through picket lines. Two miles brisk walking brought us to the base of the mountain which looked much more formidable there than from camp. We made the ascent on the military road which has been blasted and macadamized by Uncle Sam. It ran zigzag along the east slope of the hill, and not too steep to drive a team quite readily. Patiently we trudged along around ma.s.sive piles of eternal rocks and past beautiful rustic springs of pure cold water, gushing from solid rocks, partly fixed by the hand of man for the accommodation of man and beast. The road was lined on both sides with heavy foliage of living green, with an occasional opening, through which we could look back on the map-like plat of Chattanooga, with its well-laid camps, and cool our heated brows with the cool refreshing breezes.
Up and up we go, ever and anon we pa.s.s a notice by the engineer, giving the elevation above the Tennessee and the distance up to the top. For over two hours we tugged upwards, our enthusiasm somewhat abated by the fatigue, but finally we reached the summit. A sentinel with white gloves and glistening bra.s.s, a "true regular" demanded to see our pa.s.s. We were now two miles or more from the point which overlooks the town. Here was quite a town called Summer Town with a large tavern, stables, etc.
Evidently this was once a great pleasure resort in the summer season for the aristocracy. Here were also extensive hospital buildings erected by the U. S., accommodating I should judge, over 5,000 sick. Also the camp of the Regular Brigade quartered here for over a year.
But time was precious and we pushed on toward the west side of the mountain which is about a mile and a half across, through a heavy growth of timber with a beautiful variety of wild flowers. Before noon we stood on the grounds where Hooker and his men won immortal fame in November, 1863. Directly beneath us we could see the remains of the camp in Lookout Valley. On the further side of the valley was a train of cars leaving Sequatchie Station, looking very diminutive like a child"s plaything. On the parapet we walked around the craggy points towards the Point, pa.s.sing several heavy lines of rebel earthworks. "Tis astounding how men could ever fight on such precipitous rocks. By a most lovely spring gushing over the very brink we seated ourselves in the refreshing shade of a sycamore, and ate our dinner with keen relish.
[Sidenote: 1865 Lookout]
Now we stood on the veritable point, 1600 feet above high water mark of the Tennessee, 200 feet straight down the rocks. The scene from this place was the grandest I have ever seen, and may be the most extensive I may ever see again. Chattanooga looked very regular and flat, Mission Ridge dwindled down to an apparent flat, and miles beyond it was but one flat ocean of green timber. Off to the east the eye could distinguish four distinct ranges of mountains beyond the Mission Ridge, the last being the obscure Smoky Mountains of North Carolina, undoubtedly sixty miles distant. To the northeast the view was much further, nothing to intercept the vision as far as the naked eye could reach. We could look over into Western Virginia and East Tennessee, and imagine all kinds of things of the human beings scattered along. To the west and north the eye had not as wide a range, the c.u.mberland Mountains being as high, if not higher, but could easily see Alabama in that way. Five different states of our now almost happy Union from one place. Watered by the creek-like Tennessee River, which made a double slant, to the foot of the mountain, leaving the point of land on the opposite side in the exact shape of a huge foot, hence the name "Moccasin Point", where Thomas"s batteries were so hotly engaged with Lookout during Bragg"s siege.
Here we found a photograph gallery erected on the jut of a rock--takes pictures of objects on an adjoining point, $6.00 per dozen. He has many very beautiful plates of the mountain scenery, prominent among them is the Lula Falls and Lake about six miles south of the summit; but one day"s furlough would not grant us the pleasure of visiting it, so we commenced the descent in the nearest direction, which appeared but a short distance. For a while we went directly downward through the seam in the rock, then by aid of trees and shrubs we kept up with ourselves.
Down, down we went, but yet no bottom, often obliged to rest. An hour"s walk brought us to the bottom and thankful for it. We wended our way to camp, tired but well satisfied with our excursion.
We reached camp by 5 P. M. Found everything quiet. n.o.body mustered out as yet but much talk of it. 18th Ohio Battery and brigade of infantry taken to Dalton to-day by Steedman. I understand he has made several attempts at negotiations with rebel General Wofford, but failed. He is now to resort to strenuous measures.
Chattanooga, Wednesday, May 3. Went on guard last night at sunset, acting as corporal of the guard. Was on duty from 12 P. M. to 12 M. more fatiguing I think than to stand on post. Went to town this afternoon.
Found the town guarded exclusively by negro troops, white troops retired this morning. They must intend to dispense with some of us soon. My health is good. News is sought with great eagerness. There are but few cents of money in camp, and one paper often goes into every shanty.
Chattanooga, Thursday, May 4. A very hot, sultry day. Another battery drill this morning under Lieutenant Sweet. Still the excitement runs high. Grape-vine telegraph is very productive. Every hour through the day has its "special items." Bets run high, with stakes mostly "something good to eat" after the "muster out." The situation is yet unclouded, and I can see nothing to prevent us from being sent home soon. Bathed in the Tennessee River in the evening, drilled on the gun after supper. Looks like rain, hope it will and cool the air.
Chattanooga, Friday, May 5. No rain to cool the terrible air or lay the dust, which flies in heavy clouds, reminding one very vividly of old Spring Green prairie. Have been very busy all day, could not find time to write a letter. 7 A. M. went out for brigade drill by Major Mendenhall, but he did not come, so we had an interesting drill of our own. A. Sweet is bringing the Company up to its old Rienzi standard in drilling. Great strife among the detachments, both trying to come into battery first. Second piece is ready first every time. Returned to camp by 11, another hour in column to water and back.
[Sidenote: 1865 A Neighborly "Lift"]
After dinner went out to Mission Ridge after wood, two wagons and four men. At the picket post our gallant driver took up two of the fair ones, who after enjoying their quid of tobacco silently for a mile or so, said the ride "holped "em right smart." Drilled two hours after supper.
Ration day. Drew two days" rations of bread and three of hard-tack, no more soft bread to be issued. They want us to eat the surplus hard-tack.
This is considered significant.
Chattanooga, Sat.u.r.day, May 6. No rain yet to settle the dust, which has been flying in blinding clouds all day, very hot and sultry. Policed camp and stables this afternoon instead of drill. "What is the news" is yet the cry, and stray bits of rumors are caught and devoured with avidity.
Chattanooga, Sunday, May 7. A very hot day, still dusty. Had the usual morning inspection. Grazed in the afternoon. Camp more quiet than it has been for some days. Wrote a letter to John and Hannah. Mounted guard at retreat, as corporal this time again, Hayes sick. Found nice patch of ripe strawberries to-day.
Chattanooga, Monday, May 8. The cooling rain drops have been falling in a refreshing shower all day. Have done my guard duty once more. How many more times must I go on before I will be relieved from this machine life? Will my mind ever be allowed to dictate the movements of the body again? I hope so. I have received an interesting letter from my old bunk mate, Evie. Have written him two full sheets in return.
Chattanooga, Tuesday, May 9. Very much pleasanter after yesterday"s rain. Drilled to-day in camp twice. No orders disposing of us poor "critters" received yet, although much expected. Great dissatisfaction exists among the veterans in regard to the government mustering out all the sick soldiers, recruits, etc. except the veterans. It is not right, I think. They came out first and have been the means of bringing about this happy end, and they should be the first to receive the reward, I think. We have been eating hard-tack for the last two days, and I find myself suffering from the change. My system, weakened from living on inadequate food, is not vigorous enough to digest it, hence the return of diarrhea.
Chattanooga, Wednesday, May 10. Went out on battery drill this morning, afterwards to water. When I reached camp felt quite unwell, bowels very painful. Drilled at noon, heavy fever followed it.
Chattanooga, Thursday, May 11. Feel much better than yesterday afternoon, although weak yet. Yesterday afternoon had a severe fever, and my whole frame ached sorely. Ate no supper. Bathed in the evening and perspired freely. Bowels are yet very sore, but fever is gone. Griff made a cup of gruel for my breakfast. Did not go to sick call, hence on duty, were it not for Goodwin"s kindness. But I have no desire to be subjected to the doctor"s barbarous cure-all. Cantharides blister is his universal remedy for everything. Drew soft bread to-day again, which is a little better, and by doing all I can to help nature I expect to be all right again. I have had only one of my accustomed spells, when my system becomes prostrated by hard usage, but I have a wonderful vitality, and it soon rallies again to its accustomed standard. I hope to keep all right until I bid adieu to soldiering.
Chattanooga, Friday, May 12. We derive comfort around our camp stove with a roaring fire this morning, but about noon it grew hot enough for comfort. Feel better, but have no appet.i.te for the coa.r.s.e rations we receive. No drill this morning. Lieutenant Sweet and several others gone to Lookout mounted. Also five on foot, some out of the guard list, which brings me on No. 1 post, third relief of guard to-night. I am not fit to go on, but will try it, as none are excused save those who report to the doctor. Ex-rebel Wofford surrendered 8000 men at Kingston, Ga., to-day to Brigadier General Judah. So it goes on.
Chattanooga, Sat.u.r.day, May 13. Very pleasant night to stand guard. Sun very hot to-day. No. 1 post is most exposed. Have to walk the beat with military precision on the park. I am no worse, but feel better. Headache has left me. Received a letter from home; wrote one to sister Jane. She is now teaching school, a child when I left. Thus have I been standing still while others have been acquiring knowledge for the last three years, but I regret not the sacrifice. Ellen"s [school] commences next Monday. Truly do I belong to an enterprising family.
Chattanooga, Sunday, May 14. A calm and quiet Sabbath has pa.s.sed, and we have had much of the time for ourselves, no grazing, etc. Wrote home and to sister Hannah. I am troubled much in regard to her, have not received any letter from her for over two weeks and I fear she is sick again. Her ambition is too much for a frail nature.
[Sidenote: 1865 Justice for Davis]
2 P. M. a special dispatch brought into camp stating that Old Jeff and crew has been taken finally. It is official and no doubt true. The arch traitor is at last brought to justice. What will be done with him? I trust the law will be vindicated in its full extent.
Chattanooga, Monday, May 15. Reveille sounded at 4 A. M. Harnessed and saddled up before feeding, ate an early breakfast and started out for brigade drill, five horse batteries on the ground by 6 A. M. Major Mendenhall drilled us for nearly two hours. The morning being cool, it pa.s.sed off very pleasantly, and we returned to camp feeling better for the exercise. Remainder of the forenoon appeared long. Grazed in the afternoon and had an interesting game of chess with Ed. Hayes. No news, but many wild reports. Amongst the most exciting is that Jeff Davis is to pa.s.s through to-night.
Chattanooga, Tuesday, May 16. Captain Hood took us out to battery drill early, but came back in an hour. Orders received to graze but twice a week, which is agreeably received by the boys. Notwithstanding, went out this afternoon, went to the hills. Will Holmes and I got into an orchard, had all the ripe cherries we wanted to eat, also some nice strawberries.
When we returned, we found a large squad of rebs having come in, and they were corralled near the church where General Judah was paroling them. After roll call Griff and I went down to view the last "row of shad." They were a portion of Brig. Gen. B. J. Hill"s Cavalry Division, quartered in a barn. He sent several squads to other points nearer to their homes to be paroled. He came in person with them, some 150 Tennessee and Kentucky men. The officers kept horses and side arms. Many of them support a great deal of gold lace with an air of defiance.
Privates are the same squalid, low-foreheaded, long-haired, unintelligent specimens of humanity. As all the others, look a little crestfallen, but strange to say many of them thought they were not whipped, but "reckoned they mote be arter a while". Poor ignorance.
Chattanooga, Wednesday, May 17. Reveille sounded very early every morning now. Begin to feel very well, think I can grind hard-tack enough to keep the system going for a while. Nothing to read or do, so procured a pa.s.s to see if I could not find some reading matter in town.
[Sidenote: 1865 A Dashing Prisoner]
Found Chattanooga literally filled with "gray backs" riding to and fro at will. About two hundred came in this morning, a portion of Hardee"s Corps, the picked escort of Old Jeff. They followed him to Washington, Ga., when he took it alone with a few friends, and left them to go and receive their paroles, which they received at Atlanta, Ga. Many of them were quite splendidly dressed, having the finest uniforms I have ever seen with them. I talked with many of them in a friendly strain, astonished to find them so ignorant of the history of the last year. But most of them are heartily tired of war, and say they are willing to bide the will of the United States, but fear Andy Johnson"s severity. One poor fellow in a sad strain said he "was going to the place where his home once was, but G.o.d knows where it is now, I have not heard from any of them for ten months." They were commanded by one of the most desperate, wild-looking colonels I have ever seen, a fair representation of the pictures we see of brigand chiefs or buccaneers. He wore a large, warm, home-made cloak, plaited around the waist like an old fashioned wammus, hanging clear to his heels, and a coa.r.s.e white hat with a brim a foot wide, and greasy hair below the shoulders. About evening six hundred more came in.
Silver and gold is quite plenty. Dealers in town are reaping a harvest.
Scrip is useless, a newsboy hesitating to sell a paper for $100.00 of it.
Chattanooga, Thursday, May 18. Yesterday"s rain continued all day to-day with slight interruptions. Groomed "Old Gray" which is about all I did.
A little before noon we turned out to see a battalion of the 13th Tennessee. They march by in their grey. Still they come, thicker and faster and more of them.
5 P. M. Rebel General Williams marched in at the head of the 1st, 2nd, and 9th Kentucky, the 1st Brigade of Wheeler"s Cavalry. They rode good horses. At the bridge a line of blue flanked them on either side. They rode along with downcast eye and clouded brow, officers each having three or four revolvers strapped to themselves, as they were allowed to retain side-arms. Undoubtedly most of them were transferred from the privates" belts before coming in. The surplus ones were thrown into the river they say. And these were the men that had for four years made themselves notorious by their heinous deeds, now allowed all civility. I fear they are tame from policy, and not from principles, and will yet give us trouble.
On guard at 7 P. M., No. 1, third relief, so I must retire in order to get up at 11 P. M.
AWAITING DISCHARGE
Chattanooga, Friday, May 19. Rainy and disagreeable. Was wet all day from 5 to 7. I was on post during one of the most sublime and terrific rain storms I have ever witnessed. Two clouds of pitchy darkness swept down upon us from different directions, enveloping all the surrounding hills and meeting over Chattanooga. Poured rain in torrents with thunder and lightning playing high carnival right in our midst. My poncho was poor defense against such a storm, and I was thoroughly wetted. Feel quite unwell, and will go to bed though it is not dark.