The women work like the men, but always have a cloth wrapped around their heads. We met a military transport; the men are brown and healthy looking. Their whole equipment seemed German in origin.
Near the ocean, the farming is carried on on a large scale.
At the Bay of Kutshuk, I saw camels grazing, for the first time.
The ocean itself seemed brown, green, violet--all colors. At the sh.o.r.e people were swimming, and there were two anti-aircraft guns mounted.
St. Stefano is an Oriental town in every sense of the word. At the sh.o.r.e there are neat little European houses. Here, there is a wireless station, etc., just as in Johannistal.
Then came Constantinople. From the train, you cannot see much; mostly old, dirty houses, that look as if they were ready to topple over at the first puff of wind.
At the station, I was met by several German aviators, and taken to the hotel.
The evening, I spent with some officers and a number of gentlemen from the German Emba.s.sy.
[Ill.u.s.tration: READY FOR THE START]
[Ill.u.s.tration: BoLCKE AND HIS BROTHER MAX IN FRANCE (AUGUST, 1916)]
JULY 15, 1916
Early in the morning I rode to the Great Headquarters and reported to Enver Pasha, who personally gave me the Iron Crescent. Enver, who is still young, impressed me as a very agreeable, energetic, man. Then I went through the Bazar, with an interpreter. This is a network of streets, alleys and loopholes, in which everything imaginable is sold.
Then went to the Agia Sofia, the largest mosque, and to the Sultan Ahmed, which has been changed to a barracks.
In the afternoon I went to the _General_ (the ship on which the German naval officers live). In the evening we were in the Pet.i.t Champ, a little garden in which a German naval band played.
My valet amuses me. He is very unhappy, because he cannot feel at home, and is being cheated right and left by the people. He had pictured Turkey to be an entirely different sort of a place. He was very indignant because the merchants start at three o"clock, at night, to go through the streets selling their wares.
JULY 16, 1916
In the morning I went out to the _General_ with Lieutenant H. to see a U-boat.
In the afternoon, a Greek funeral pa.s.sed the hotel. The cover of the coffin is carried ahead and the corpse can be seen in the coffin.
Later, I wandered around in Galata and saw the Sultan, who was just coming out of a mosque. First, mounted policemen came; then there was a mounted bodyguard; then adjutant; then the Sultan in a coach with four horses; then the same retinue again, in reverse order.
JULY 17, 1916
This morning, I at last had a chance to see something of their aviation. We rode through the city in an auto: through Stamboul, along the old Byzantine city wall, past the cemetery, and a number of barracks, through the dreary district to St. Stefano, and looked over the aviation station there. Here, Major S. has made himself quite a neat bit out of nothing at all. Naturally, under present conditions, it is very hard for him to get the necessary materials of all sorts.
In the afternoon I was a guest on board the _General_.
In the afternoon I went with Captain D. and other gentlemen, through the Bosphorus to Therapia, where the German cemetery is wonderfully situated. Then we inspected a shoe factory at Beikos, and, later, went to the _Goeben_ and _Breslau_, where I had a splendid reception.
After a brief inspection of both boats, we ate supper and enjoyed a concert on deck. On leaving, Captain A., commander of the _Goeben_, drank a toast to me. Who would have believed this possible a few years ago.
JULY 18, 1916
To-day I took a pleasure spin on the Sea of Marmora, with S."s adjutant, and his motorboat. We pa.s.sed the Sultan"s palace and went to Skutari, where I made a short stop. Then we went to the Princes"
Islands, where we landed at Princepu. Princepu is to Constantinople what Grunewald or Wannsee is to Berlin. It is a wonderful island, hilly and situated in the middle of the sea. All the wealthy have summer homes here, and most of Constantinople takes a trip here Sat.u.r.day and Sunday. In the Casino, from which there is a beautiful view of the sea, we drank coffee. Toward evening we reached home, after first sailing around the neighboring islands, on one of which the captured defender of Kut-el-Amara lives in a very nice villa.
JULY 19, 1916
At nine, we left for Panderma. The Sea of Marmora was quite calm; at first there were some waves, but later it was very still. The ship was filled with natives; quite a few women, and some officers. Panderma: a small seaport (many small sail-boats), situated at the foot of a mountain, and made up, mostly, of small frame houses. We were met by small government vessels, while the others were taken off by native boats. After a short wait, we started our trip in a Pullman car (the train was made up specially for us). As far as Manias Gor the country is monotonous; a few boats on the sea, and quite a few storks. In the Sursulu-Su Valley there are more villages, well-built, meadows, fruit trees, and large herds of oxen and flocks of sheep. A good road runs next to the railroad. Then it became dark. Slept well after a good supper.
JULY 20, 1916
Woke up south of Akbissal. Country very pretty, cultivated and fertile, with many herds of cattle; caravans of camel, with a mule as leader.
The plains became more pretty as we went on. Smyrna is beautifully situated. At the station I met Buddecke and several other men. I got a room in the Hotel Kramer, right at the sea. From my balcony I have a view over the whole Gulf of Smyrna. In the afternoon, I took a walk after reporting to His Excellency Liman-Sanders. Went through the Bazar, which is not so large as in Stamboul.
JULY 21, 1916
At ten we went to the aviation field at Svedi Kos, south of Smyrna.
The aviators live in a school. Close to the field there are the tents of a division. The Turkish soldiers made a good impression.
JULY 22, 1916
In the morning went swimming at Cordelio, with several ladies and gentlemen. Buddecke met us with a yacht. We had a fine sail. The view of the hills from the gulf was beautiful.
JULY 23, 1916
In the morning, again went to Cordelio for a swim, and took some jolly pictures.
JULY 24, 1916
Slept late. In the afternoon took a sail with several gentlemen to the future landing spot for seaplanes.
JULY 25, 1916
In the morning I strolled about alone in the outlying parts of Smyrna.
Here, things look much more "oriental."
Now I have to take the long trip to Constantinople _via_ Panderma, then to the Dardanelles. I lose eight days this way, for which I am exceedingly sorry. In an airplane, I could make it in two and a half hours, but Buddecke will not let me have any. He has a thousand and one reasons for not giving me one, but I believe he has instructions to that effect.
JULY 29, 1916