Even a Dutch child, as he steals along to school, smoking his short pipe, has a mock air of thought about him. The great fat horses, that wag along, trailing behind them some petty, insignificant truck, loaded with a little cask, not bigger than a life-guardsman"s helmet, look as though Erasmus was performing duty as a quadruped, and walking about his own native city in harness. It must be a glorious country to be born in.
No one is ever in a pa.s.sion; and as to honesty, who has energy enough to turn robber? The eloquence, which in other lands might wind a man from his allegiance, would be tried in vain here. Ten minutes" talking would set any audience asleep, from Zetland to Antwerp. Smoking, beer-drinking, stupifying, and domino-playing, go on, in summer, before, in winter, within, the _cafes_, and every broad flat face that you look upon, with its watery eyes and muddy complexion, seems like a coloured chart of the country that gave it birth.
How all the industry, that has enriched them, is ever performed--how all the cleanliness, for which their houses are conspicuous, is ever effected, no one can tell. Who ever saw a Dutchman labour? Every thing in Holland seems typified by one of their own drawbridges, which rises as a boat approaches, by invisible agency, and then remains patiently aloft, till a sufficiency of pa.s.sengers arrives to restore it to its place, and Dutch gravity seems the grand centre of all prosperity.
When, therefore, my fellow-pa.s.sengers stormed and swore because they were not permitted to land their luggage; when they heard that until nine o"clock the following morning, no one would be astir to examine it; and that the Rhine steamer sailed at eight, and would not sail again for three days more, and cursed the louder thereat; I chuckled to myself that I was going no where, that I cared not how long I waited, nor where, and began to believe that something of very exalted philosophy must have been infused into my nature without my ever being aware of it.
For twenty minutes and more, Sir Peter abused the Dutch; he called them hard names in English, and some very strong epithets in bad French.
Meanwhile, his courier busied himself in preparations for departure, and the "Honourable Jack" undertook to shawl the young ladies, a performance which, whether from the darkness of the night, or the intricacy of the m.u.f.fling, took a most unmerciful time to accomplish.
"We shall never find the hotel at this hour," said Sir Peter, angrily.
"The house will certainly be closed," chimed in the young ladies.
"Take your five to two on the double event," replied Jack, slapping the Alderman on the shoulder, and preparing to book the wager.
I did not wait to see it accepted, but stepped over the side, and trudged along the "Boomjes," that long quay, with its tall elm trees, under whose shade many a burgomaster has strolled at eve, musing over the profits which his last venture from Batavia was to realize; and then, having crossed the narrow bridge at the end, I traversed the Erasmus Plata, and rang boldly, as an old acquaintance has a right to do, at the closed door of the "Schwein Kopf." My summons was not long unanswered, and following the many-petticoated handmaiden along the well-sanded pa.s.sage, I asked, "Is the Holbein chamber unoccupied?" while I drew forth a florin from my purse.
"Ah, Mynheer knows it then," said she, smiling. "It is at your service.
We have had no travellers for some days past, and you are aware, that, except greatly crowded, we never open it."
This I knew well, and having a.s.sured her that I was an _habitue_ of the Schwein Kopf, in times long past, I persuaded her to fetch some dry wood and make me a cheerful fire, which, with a "krug of schiedam" and some "canastre," made me as happy as a king.
The "Holbeiner Kammer" owes its name, and any repute that it enjoys, to a strange, quaint portrait, of that master seated at a fire, with a fair headed, handsome child, sitting cross-legged on the hearth before him.
A certain half resemblance seems to run through both faces, although the age and colouring are so different. But the same contemplative expression, the deep-set eye, the ma.s.sive forehead and pointed chin, are to be seen in the child, as in the man.
This was Holbein and his nephew, Franz von Holbein, who in after years served with distinction in the army of Louis Quatorze. The background of the picture represents a room exactly like the chamber--a few highly-carved oak chairs, the Utrecht velvet-backs glowing with their scarlet brilliancy, an old-fashioned Flemish bed, with groups of angels, neptunes, baccha.n.a.ls, and dolphins, all mixed up confusedly in quaint carving; and a ma.s.sive frame to a very small looking-gla.s.s, which hung in a leaning att.i.tude over the fire-place, and made me think, as I gazed at it, that the plane of the room was on an angle of sixty-five, and that the least shove would send me clean into the stove.
"Mynheer wants nothing?" said the _Vrow_ with a court"sey.
"Nothing," said I, with my most polite bow.
"Good night, then," said she; "_schlaf wohl_, and don"t mind the ghost."
"Ah, I know him of old," replied I, striking the table three times with my cane. The woman, whose voice the moment before was in a tone of jest, suddenly grew pale, and, as she crossed herself devoutly, muttered--"_Nein! Nein!_ don"t do that;" and shutting the door, hurried down stairs with all the speed she could muster.
I was in no hurry to bed, however. The "krug" was racy, the "canastre"
excellent: so, placing the light where it should fall with good effect on the Holbein, I stretched out my legs to the blaze; and, as I looked upon the canvas, began to muse over the story with which it was a.s.sociated, and which I may as well jot down here, for memory"s sake.
Frank Holbein, having more ambition and less industry than the rest of his family, resolved to seek his fortune; and early in the September of the year 1681, he found himself wandering in the streets of Paris, without a _liard_ in his pocket, or any prospects of earning one. He was a fine-looking, handsome youth, of some eighteen or twenty years, with a sharp, piercing look, and that Spanish cast of face for which so many Dutch families are remarkable. He sat down, weary and hungry, on one of the benches of the Pont de la Cite, and looked about him wistfully, to see what piece of fortune might come to his succour. A loud shout, and the noise of people flying in every direction, attracted him. He jumped up, and saw persons running hither and thither to escape from a caleche, which a pair of runaway horses were tearing along at a frightful rate.
Frank blessed himself, threw off his cloak, pressed his cap firmly upon his brow, and dashed forward. The affrighted animals slackened their speed as he stood before them, and endeavoured to pa.s.s by; but he sprang to their heads, and with one vigorous plunge, grasped the bridle; but though he held on manfully, they continued their way; and, notwithstanding his every effort, their mad speed scarcely felt his weight, as he was dragged along beside them. With one tremendous effort, however, he wrested the near horse"s head from the pole, and, thus compelling him to cross his fore-legs, the animal tripped, and came headlong to the ground with a smash, that sent poor Frank spinning some twenty yards before them. Frank soon got up again; and though his.
forehead was bleeding, and his hand severely cut, his greatest grief was, his torn doublet, which, threadbare before, now hung around him in ribbons.
"It was you who stopped them?--are you hurt?" said a tall, handsome man, plainly but well dressed, and in whose face the trace of agitation was clearly marked.
"Yes, sir," said Frank, bowing respectfully. "I did it; and see how my poor doublet has suffered!"
"Nothing worse than that?" said the other, smiling blandly. "Well, well, that is not of so much moment. Take this," said he, handing him his purse; "buy yourself a new doublet, and wait on me to-morrow by eleven."
With these words the stranger disappeared in a caleche, which seemed to arrive at the moment, leaving Frank in a state of wonderment at the whole adventure.
"How droll he should never have told me where he lives!" said he, aloud, as the bystanders crowded about him, and showered questions upon him.
"It is Monsieur le Ministre, man--M. de Louvois himself, whose life you"ve saved. Your fortune is made for ever."
The speech was a true one. Before three months from that eventful day, M. de Louvois, who had observed and noted down certain traits of acuteness in Frank"s character, sent for him to his _bureau_.
"Holbein," said he, "I have seldom been deceived in my opinion of men--you can be secret, I think."
Frank placed his hand upon his breast, and bowed in silence.
"Take the dress you will find on that chair: a carriage is now ready, waiting in the court-yard--get into it, and set out for Bale. On your arrival there, which will be--mark me well--about eight o"clock on the morning of Thursday, you"ll leave the carriage, and send it into the town, while you must station yourself on the bridge over the Rhine, and take an exact note of everything that occurs, and every one that pa.s.ses, till the cathedral clock strikes three. Then, the caleche will be in readiness for your return; and lose not a moment in repairing to Paris."
It was an hour beyond midnight, in the early part of the following week, that a caleche, travel-stained and dirty, drove into the court of the minister"s hotel, and five minutes after, Frank, wearied and exhausted, was ushered into M. de Louvois" presence.
"Well, Monsieur," said he impatiently, "what have you seen?"
"This, may it please your Excellency," said Frank, trembling, "is a note of it; but I am ashamed that so trivial an account----"
"Let us see--let us see," said the minister.
"In good truth, I dare scarcely venture to read such a puerile detail.
"Read it at once, Monsieur," was the stern command.
Frank"s face became deep-red with shame, as he began thus:--
"Nine o"clock.--I see an a.s.s coming along, with a child leading him.
The a.s.s is blind of one eye.--A fat German sits on the balcony, and is spitting into the Rhine----"
"Ten.--A livery servant from Bale rides by, with a basket. An old peasant in a yellow doublet----"
"Ah, what of him?
"Nothing remarkable, save that he leans over the rails, and strikes three blows with his stick upon them.
"Enough, enough," said M. de Louvois, gaily. "I must awake the king at once."
The minister disappeared, leaving Frank in a state of bewilderment. In less than a quarter of an hour he entered the chamber, his face covered with smiles.
"Monsieur," said he, "you have rendered his majesty good service. Here is your brevet of colonel.--The king has this instant signed it."
In eight days after, was the news known in Paris, that Strasburg, then invested by the French army, had capitulated, and been reunited to the kingdom. The three strokes of the cane being the signal, which announced the success of the secret negotiation between the ministers of Louis XIV., and the magistrates of Strasburg.
This, was the Franz Holbein of the picture, and if the three _coups de baton_ are not attributable to his ghost, I can only say, I am totally at a loss to say where they should be charged; for my own part, I ought to add, I never heard them, conduct which I take it was the more ungracious on the ghost"s part, as I finished the schiedam, and pa.s.sed my night on the hearth rug, leaving the feather-bed with its down coverlet quite at master Frank"s disposal.
Although the "Schwein Kopf" stands in one of the most prominent squares of Rotterdam, and nearly opposite the statue of Erasmus, it is comparatively little known to English travellers. The fashionable hotels which are near the quay of landing, antic.i.p.ate the claims of this more primitive house; and yet, to any one desirous of observing the ordinary routine of a Dutch family, it is well worth a visit. The bucksome Vrows who trudge about with short but voluminous petticoats, their heads ornamented by those gold or silver circlets, which no Dutch peasant seems ever to want, are exactly the very types of what you see in an Ostade or a Teniers. The very host himself, old Hoogendorp, is a study; scarcely five feet in height, he might measure nearly nine, in circ.u.mference, and in case of emergency could be used as a sluicegate, should any thing happen to the d.y.k.es. He was never to be seen before one o"clock in the day, but exactly as the clock tolled that hour, the ma.s.sive soup-tureen, announcing the commencement of the _table d"hote_, was borne in state before him, while with "solemn step and slow," ladle in hand, and napkin round his neck, he followed after. His conduct at table was a fine specimen of Dutch independence of character--he never thought of bestowing those petty attentions which might cultivate the good-will of his guests; he spoke little, he smiled never; a short nod of recognition bestowed upon a townsman, was about the extent of royal favour he was ever known to confer; or occasionally, when any remark made near him seemed to excite his approbation, a significant grunt of approval ratified the wisdom of the speech, and made a Solon of the speaker. His spoon descended into the soup, and emerged therefrom with the ponderous regularity of a crane into the hold of a ship. Every function of the table was performed with an unbroken monotony, and never, in the course of his forty years" sovereignty, was he known to distribute an undue quant.i.ty of fat, or an unseemly proportion of beet-root sauce, to any one guest in preference to another.
The _table d"hote_, which began at one, concluded a little before three, during which time our host, when not helping others, was busily occupied in helping himself, and it was truly amazing to witness the steady perseverance with which he waded through every dish, making himself master in all its details" of every portion of the dinner, from the greasy soup, to that _acme_ of Dutch epicurism--Utrecht cheese. About a quarter before three, the long dinner drew to its conclusion. Many of the guests, indeed, had disappeared long before that time, and were deep in all their wonted occupations of timber, tobacco, and train-oil. A few, however, lingered on to the last. A burly major of infantry, who, unb.u.t.toning his undress frock, towards the close of the feast, would sit smoking, and sipping his coffee, as if unwilling to desert the field; a grave, long-haired professor; and, perhaps, an officer of the excise, waiting for the re-opening of the custom-house, would be the extent of the company. But even these dropped off at last, and, with a deep bow to mine host, pa.s.sed away to their homes, or their haunts. Meanwhile, the waiters hurried hither and thither, the cloth was removed, in its place a fresh one was spread, and all the preliminaries for a new dinner were set about with the same activity as before. The napkins inclosed in their little horn cases, the decanters of beer, the small dishes of preserved fruit, without which no Dutchman dines, were all set forth, and the host, without stirring from his seat, sat watching the preparations with calm complacency. Were you to note him narrowly, you could perceive that his eyes alternately opened and shut, as if relieving guard, save which, he gave no other sign of life, nor even at last, when the mighty stroke of three rang out from the cathedral, and the hurrying sound of many feet proclaimed the arrival of the guests of the second table, did he ever exhibit the slightest show or mark of attention, but sat calm, and still, and motionless.