On this occasion my cabman, for no reason whatever, suddenly began to beat his horse in the hatefulest way, leaning down with his whip and striking the horse underneath, as we were going downhill on the Rue de Freycinet. I screamed at him, but he pretended not to hear. The cab rocked from side to side, the horse was galloping, and this brute beating him like a madman. It made me wild. I was being bounced around like corn in a popper and in imminent danger of being thrown to the pavement.
People saw my danger, but n.o.body did anything--just looked, that was all. I saw that I must save myself if there was any saving going to be done. So with one last trial of my lungs I shrieked at the cabman, but the cobblestones were his excuse, and he kept on. So I just stood up and knocked his hat off with my parasol!--his big, white, glazed hat.
It was glorious! He turned around in a fury and pulled up his horse, with a torrent of French abuse and impudence which scared me nearly to death. I thought he might strike me.
So I pulled my twitching lips into a distortion which pa.s.sed muster with a Paris cabman for a smile, and begged his pardon so profusely that he relented and didn"t kill me.
I often blush for the cheap Americans with loud voices and provincial speech, and general commonness, whom one meets over here; but with all their faults they cannot approach the vulgarities at table which I have seen in Paris. In all America we have no such vulgar inst.i.tution as their _rince-bouche_--an affair resembling a two-part finger-bowl, with the water in a cup in the middle. At fashionable tables, men and women in gorgeous clothes, who speak four or five languages, actually rinse their mouths and gargle at the table, and then slop the water thus used back into these bowls. The first time I saw this I do a.s.sure you I would not have been more astonished if the next course had been stomach pumps.
And as for the toothpick habit! Let no one ever tell me that that atrocity is American! Here it goes with every course, and without the pretended decency of holding one"s _serviette_ before one"s mouth, which, in my opinion, is a mere affectation, and aggravates the offence.
But the most shameless thing in all Europe is the marriage question.
To talk with intelligent, clever, thinking men and women, who know the secret history of all the famous international marriages, as well as the high contracting parties, who will relate the price paid for the husband, and who the intermediary was, and how much commission he or she received, is to make you turn faint and sick at the mere thought, especially if you happen to come from a country where they once fought to abolish the buying and selling of human beings. But our black slaves were above buying and selling themselves or their children. It remains for civilized Europe of our time to do this, and the highest and proudest of her people at that.
It is not so shocking to read about it in glittering generalities. I knew of it in a vague way, just as I knew the history of the ma.s.sacre of Saint Bartholomew. I thought it was too bad that so many people were killed, and I also thought it a pity that Frenchmen never married without a _dot_. But when it comes to meeting the people who had thus bargained, and the moment their gorgeous lace and satin backs were turned to hear some one say, "You are always so interested in that sort of thing, have you heard what a scandal was caused by the marriage of those two?"--then it ceases to be history; then it becomes almost a family affair.
"How could a marriage between two unattached young people cause a scandal?" I asked, with my stupid, primitive American ideas.
"Oh, the bride"s mother refused to pay the commission to the intermediary," was the airy reply. "It came near getting into the papers."
At the Jubilee garden party at Lady Monson"s I saw the most beautiful French girl I have seen in Paris. She was superb. In America she would have been a radiant, a triumphant beauty, and probably would have acquired the insolent manners of some of our spoiled beauties. Instead of that, however, she was modest, even timid-looking, except for her queenly carriage. Her gown was a dream, and a dream of a dress at a Paris garden party means something.
"What a tearing beauty!" I said to my companion. "Who is she?"
"Yes, poor girl!" he said. "She is the daughter of the Comtesse N----.
One of the prettiest girls in Paris. Not a sou, however; consequently she will never marry. She will probably go into a convent."
"But why? Why won"t she marry? Why aren"t all the men crazy about her?
Why don"t you marry her?"
"Marry a girl without a _dot_? Thank you, mademoiselle. I am an expense to myself. My wife must not be an additional enc.u.mbrance."
"But surely," I said, "somebody will want to marry her, if no n.o.bleman will."
"Ah, yes, but she is of n.o.ble blood, and she must not marry beneath her. No one in her own cla.s.s will marry her, so"--a shrug--"the convent! See, her chances are quite gone. She has been out five years now."
I could have cried. Every word of it was quite true. I thought of the dozens of susceptible and rich American men I knew who would have gone through fire and water for her, and who, although they have no t.i.tle to give her, would have made her adoring and adorable husbands, and I seriously thought of offering a few of them to her for consideration!
But alas, there are so many ifs and ands, and--well, I didn"t.
I only sighed and said, "Well, I suppose such things are common in France, but I do a.s.sure you such things are impossible in America."
"Such things as what, mademoiselle?"
"This cold-blooded bartering," I said. "American men are above it."
"Are American girls above selling themselves, mademoiselle? Do you see that poor, pitifully plain little creature there, in that dress which cost a fortune? Do you see how ill she carries it? Do you see her unformed, uncertain manner? Her husband is the one I just had the honor of presenting to you, who is now talking to the beauty you so much admire."
"He shows good taste in spite of his marriage," I said.
"Certainly. But his wife is your countrywoman. That is the last famous international marriage, and the most vulgar of the whole lot. Listen, mademoiselle, and I will tell you the exact truth of the whole affair.
"She came over here with letters to Paris friends, and when it became known that one of the richest heiresses in America was here, naturally all the mammas with marriageable sons were anxious to see her. She was invited everywhere, but as she could not speak French, and as she was as you see her, her success could not be said to be great. No, but that made no difference. The d.u.c.h.esse de Z---- was determined that her son should marry the rich heiress. As she expected to remain here a year or more, and the young Duc de Z---- made a wry face, she did not press the matter. Then the heiress went into a convent to learn French, and the d.u.c.h.esse went to see her very often and took her to drive, and did her son"s part as well as she could.
"Suddenly, to the amazement of everybody, the heiress sailed for America without a word of warning. The d.u.c.h.esse was furious. "You must follow her," she said to her son. "We cannot let so much money escape." The son said he would be hanged if he went to America, or if he would marry such a monkey, and as for her money, she could go anywhere she pleased with it, or words to that effect. So that ended the affair of the Duc de Z----. When the other impecunious young n.o.bles heard that the d.u.c.h.esse no longer had any claims upon the American"s money they got together and said, "Somebody must marry her and divide with the rest. We can"t all marry her, but we can all have a share from whoever does. Now we will draw lots to see who must go to America and marry her." The lot fell to the Baron de X----, but he had no money for the journey. So all the others raised what money they could and loaned it to him, and took his notes for it, with enormous interest, payable after his marriage. He sailed away, and within eight months he had married her, but he has not paid those notes because his wife won"t give him the money! And these gentlemen are furious! Good joke, I call it."
"What a shameful thing!" I said. "I wonder if that girl knew how she was being married!"
"Of course she knew! At least, she might have known. She was rich and she was plain. How could she hope to gain one of the proudest t.i.tles in France without buying it?"
"I wonder if she could have known!" I said, again.
"It would not have prevented the marriage, would it, mademoiselle, if she had?"
"Indeed it would!" I said (but I don"t know whether it would or not).
He shrugged his shoulders.
"America is very different from Europe, then, mademoiselle. Here it would have made no difference. When a great amount of money is to be placed, one must not have too many scruples."
"If she did know," I said, with a fervor which was lost upon him, "believe this, whether you can understand it or not: she was not a typical American girl."
I had, as usual, many more words which he deserved to have had said to him, but education along this line takes too much time. I ought to have begun this great work with his great-grandparents.
What any one can see about Dinard to like is a mystery to me! Is it possible that one who has spent a month there could ever be lured back again? There is a beautiful journey from Paris across France southwesterly to the coast, through odd little French villages, vineyards, poppy-fields, and rose-gardens, across shining rivulets and through an undulating landscape, all so lovely that it is no wonder that one expects all this beauty to lead up to a climax. But what a disappointment Dinard is to one"s enthusiastic antic.i.p.ations! This famous watering-place has to my mind not one solitary redeeming feature. It has no excuse for being famous. It has not even one happy accident about it as a peg to hang its fame upon, like some writers"
first novels. Dinard simply goes on being famous, n.o.body knows why.
And to go there, after reading pages about it in the papers and hearing people speak of Dinard as Mohammedans whisper sacredly of Mecca, is like meeting celebrities. You wonder what under the sun--what in the world--how in the name of Heaven such ugly, stupid, uninteresting, heavy, dull, and insufferably ordinary persons are allowed to become famous by an overruling and beneficent Providence! I have met many celebrities, and I have been to Dinard. I have had my share of disappointments.
To begin with, Dinard is not sufficiently picturesque. There are but one or two pretty vistas and three or four points of view. Then it is not typically French. It is inhabited partly by English families who cross the Channel yearly from Southampton and Portsmouth, and who take with them their nine uninteresting daughters, with long front teeth and ill-hanging duck skirts, and partly by Americans who go to Dinard as they go to the Eiffel Tower; not that either is particularly interesting, but they had heard of these places before they came over.
The only really interesting thing within five miles of Dinard is that, off St. Malo, on the island of Grand Be, Chateaubriand is buried. But as this really belongs more to the attractions of St. Malo than to Dinard, and n.o.body who spends summers at Dinard ever mentioned Chateaubriand in my presence, or honored his tomb by a visit, it is pure charity on my part to ascribe this solitary point of real interest to Dinard. For, after all, Chateaubriand does not belong to it. Which logic reminds me forcibly of the plea entered by the defence in a suit for borrowing a kettle: "In the first place, I never borrowed his kettle; in the second place, it was whole when I returned it; and, in the third place, it was cracked when I got it."
So with Chateaubriand and Dinard. Then Dinard has none of the dash and go of other watering-places. There is nothing to do except to bathe mornings and watch the people win or lose two francs at _pet.i.ts chevaux_ in the evenings. Not wildly exciting, that. Consequently, you soon begin to stagnate with the rest.
You grow more and more stupid as the weeks pa.s.s, and at the end of a month you cease to think. From that time on you do not have such a bad time--that is to say, you do not suffer so acutely, because you have now got down to the level of the people who go back to Dinard the next year.
We came away. The hotels are among the worst on earth--musty, old-fashioned, and villainously expensive--and one of the happiest moments in my life was the day when I left Dinard for Mont St. Michel.
Mont St. Michel is one of the most out-of-the-way, un-get-at-able places I found in all Europe; but, oh, how it rewards one who arrives!
Mont St. Michel is too well known to need a description. But to go from Dinard requires, first of all, that one must go by boat over to St. Malo, thence by train; change cars, and alight finally at a lonely little station, behind which stands a sort of vehicle--a cross between a London omnibus and a hay-wagon. You scramble to the top of this as best you may. n.o.body helps you. The Frenchman behind you crowds forward and climbs up ahead of you and holds you back with his umbrella while he hauls his fat wife up beside him. Then you clamber up by the hub of the wheel and by sundry awkward means which remind you of climbing a stone wall when you were a child. You take any seat left, which the Frenchmen do not want, the horses are put to, and away you go over a smooth sandy road for eleven miles, with the sea crawling up on each side of you over the dunes.
Suddenly, without warning, you come squarely upon Mont St. Michel, rising solidly five hundred feet from nowhere. There is a whole town in this fortress, built upon this rock, street above street, like a flight of stairs, and house piled up behind house, until on the very top there is one of the most famous cathedrals in the world; and as you thread its maze of vaulted chambers and dungeons and come to its gigantic tower you are lost in absolute wonder at the building of it.
Where did they get the material? And when got, what human ingenuity could raise those enormous blocks of stone to that vast height? How those cannon swept all approach by land or sea as far as the eye could reach! It would require superb courage in an enemy to come within reach of that grim sentinel of France, manned by her warrior monks.
What secrets those awful dungeons might relate! Here political crimes were avenged with all the cruelty of Siberian exile. Here prisoners wore their lives away in black solitude, no ray of light penetrating their darkness.
The story is told that one poor wretch was eaten alive by gigantic rats, and they have a ghastly reproduction of it in wax, which makes you creepy for a week after you have seen it. Nowhere in all Europe did I see a place which impressed its wonder and its history of horror upon me as did the cathedral dungeon of Mont St. Michel. Its situation was so impregnable, its capacity so vast, its silence and isolation from the outer world so absolute.
All Russia does not boast a situation so replete with possible and probable misery and anguish such as were suggested to my mind here.