And there inspect the salt works, but, more especially, the
Beet Sugar Works, the first erected and operated in California, and regarded as the pioneer of an extensive and valuable industry. From Alvarado you can keep on, by stage, nine miles to the
WARM SPRINGS, or you can reach these by driving to Niles, or Decoto, and thence taking the cars of the San Jose road. These springs are about two miles south of the Old Mission San Jose, in the midst of a pleasant grove of oak and other trees, near the Agua Caliente (hot water) creek. The waters contain lime, sulphur, magnesia, and iron, in various combinations. Summer guests speak highly of the neighboring hotel.
From the springs return to the railroad, and riding eleven miles, enter on
IV. The San Jose Trip,
which begins with
San Jose.
The county seat of Santa Clara county; in population the fourth city of the State, in character of population one of the first, and in beautiful surroundings the gem city. It has a fine situation, in the midst of a beautiful valley, and a climate so healthy that many people affected with lung complaints go thither to live, as a means of cure.
Hundreds from San Francisco and the intermediate cities, go on excursions to San Jose and vicinity every summer. From whatever direction we approach San Jose, the first object to meet the eye is the lofty dome of the
COURT HOUSE. Next to the State Capitol at Sacramento, this is the finest building in the State. It stands on the west side of First street, fronting St. James Square. Its architecture is Roman Corinthian; its dimensions, one hundred feet front, one hundred and forty feet depth; height, fifty-six feet to cornice; to top of dome, one hundred and fifteen feet. The building is divided into two lofty stories, containing the princ.i.p.al court room, sixty-five feet long, forty-eight feet wide and thirty-eight feet high, with twenty large and elegant rooms for county officials. The view from the dome is alone worth going to San Jose to enjoy. Whatever else you may omit, in and about the city, do _not_ omit this.
THE STATE NORMAL SCHOOL BUILDING. Next to the Court House, this is the chief object of interest. It occupies the centre of Washington Square, faces west; architecture, Corinthian; length, two hundred and eighty-four feet; depth, one hundred and sixty feet; and height to top of cornice, seventy feet; to top of tower, one hundred and fifty-two feet; number of stories, four, including bas.e.m.e.nt and mansard roof.
The Normal Hall is ninety-one feet long, sixty-six feet wide, and forty feet high, accommodating nine hundred.
AUZERAIS HOUSE. Among the finest buildings in the city, and the best hotel south of San Francisco, is the Auzerais House. For first-cla.s.s hotel accommodations in all variety, for cordial welcome and courteous service, stop here, and you will not be disappointed; especially when restfully reclining in the charming park and garden attached to the house. Rates, usual first-cla.s.s; from $3.00 single day, to $20.00, or even $15.00, a week, with lower rates for longer times.
NEW YORK EXCHANGE HOTEL. Corner of First and St. John"s streets, ranking next to the Auzerais, affords excellent rooms, with good board and attentive service, for from $2.00 a day to $12.00 a week.
If you want to ride through the surrounding valley, as you certainly will, after looking from the court-house dome, go to Church & Wallace, No. 386 First street, who will have a capital team waiting for you at the station if you merely drop them a slight hint by telegraph.
Besides the public buildings already named, fine churches, school buildings, business blocks, private residences and beautiful gardens well repay a stroll through this queen city of a lovely valley.
New Almaden.
From San Jose, take one of Church & Wallace"s teams, and drive thirteen miles southerly to the celebrated
Quicksilver Mine, named for the famous old Almaden mine, in Spain, with the syllable, "new," prefixed by way of distinction. This mine is over five hundred feet deep, and employs nearly five hundred men. For permission to enter, apply to J. B. Randol, Esq., manager, residing at New Almaden. If you prefer to go out by public conveyance, a stage will take you over any afternoon at 2.30 for $1.50.
Drive back to San Jose: thence, by steam car, horse car or private team, go over three miles north to
Santa Clara,
A pleasant, quiet town, chiefly noted for the Santa Clara College (Jesuit), which occupies the site of the old mission, which was really the germ of the town; and the University of the Pacific (Methodist).
Saratoga,
_Springs_, of course, ten miles southwest of San Jose, from which daily stage carries one over for $1.50. These springs are called the
Congress Springs, from the resemblance of their water to that of the original and famous springs of that name at the New York Saratoga.
They are three shallow springs, excavated in the sandstone, and tasting very much alike. The water contains sulphates and carbonates of soda, iron and lime, with traces of magnesia. It is very refreshing and healthful; so much so that the guests at the neighboring hotel annually consume increasing quant.i.ties, besides the thousand bottles sent away daily.
Thence back to San Jose, and, after a good night"s rest, set forth on tour
V. Gilroy, and Points South,
and the places for which it is the starting point.
This brisk and lively, neat and thriving town, we beg its pardon, _city_, is thirty-one miles southeast of San Jose, from which one reaches it by the Southern Pacific Railroad for a fare of $2.00. This city is the present terminus of the railroad, and the consequent centre from which radiate the various stage routes to the "lower country." On every hand it presents evidences of business prosperity and rapid growth. Population, over two thousand.
Hot Spring--Fourteen miles northeast of Gilroy, in a small, rocky ravine opening into Coyote Canon, is this noted spring. Its water contains iron, soda, magnesia, sulphur, and baryta, and has a pungent but not unpleasant taste. Throughout the year it preserves a uniform temperature of about one hundred and ten degrees. Within a rod of the hot spring are a dozen or more large springs of pure, cold water. The curative properties of the water, added to the romantic character of the surrounding scenery, have caused the erection of a fine hotel, reached by regular stages, over a good road, from Gilroy.
Some twelve miles southwest of Gilroy, one may find, in the
Pajaro Valley,
as quiet and beautiful an agricultural nook as the State affords. For a quiet retreat in some hospitable farmhouse, with a good chance for small game, for a day or two, this snug valley will decidedly "fill the bill." Its black soil, famous potatoes, and charming little branch canons will dispose a farmer, or a hunter, or a painter to stay as long as possible. When you have rusticated as long as you can in the romantic vicinity of Gilroy, and are ready, though unwilling, to go, you can return by the way you came, if you like; but, if time permits, and you wish to see one of the pleasantest sections of the State, you will take stage through Hollister and
San Juan,
A quiet little town, old and quaint, and chiefly notable for its early mission, founded in 1797, to
Monterey,
The first capital of California, and noted, also, as the place where the American flag was first raised in California, by Com. Sloat, July 7th, 1846. Here one may see plenty of the old adobe houses, with tiled roofs, built in the primitive Mexican style. From Monterey, you may come up the coast, by water, or go back to San Juan, and thence take stage to Watsonville, near the seaward end of the beautiful Pajaro Valley, and come through to
VI. Santa Cruz, and Up the Coast.
Beyond comparison the most delightful among the smaller towns of the State. In fact it is the occidental Newport, the Pacific Nahant, where languid fashion and exhausted business most do congregate. Here land and water meet, present the best beauty of each, and combine to proffer new ones impossible to either alone. Rides, rambles and drives, swims and sails, picnics and chowder-parties, excellent hotel accommodations, and plenty of good company, furnish the material for as varied enjoyment, and as much of it, as any one of ordinary const.i.tution can stand. The way of approach which we have mentioned, is comparatively rare. The most noted route is from Santa Clara by daily stage, thirty miles; fare, $3.20.
When you have sufficiently enjoyed Santa Cruz and its beautiful surroundings, you may take the stage any Monday, Wednesday or Friday morning, at eight o"clock, for a
Ride Up the Coast.
Eight miles north we pa.s.s Laguna Creek, noted for good fishing, while its vicinity proffers fine shooting, both of which attractions have combined to make it a favorite camping-ground for picnic parties.
Nearly three miles further, William"s Landing gives you the first chance to witness "hawser-shipping", an ingenious device for getting produce, or any form of merchandise, into a boat, or upon the deck of a vessel when the surf is too rough to permit the landing of a boat or the continuance of a pier. Thus art makes a "port" for loading or discharging where nature forbids the construction of the ordinary facilities.
Three and a half miles brings us to Davenport"s Landing, an open roadstead, famous for the longest pier running out into the open ocean, of any place on the Pacific Coast.
Thence two miles, to the beautiful laurel groves and camping-grounds of Scott"s Creek. Nearly one hundred and fifty deer have been killed in this neighborhood in one season.