3rd row: * 5 double in the first 5 double of the preceding row, 7 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in every other st.i.tch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 7 chain between, 7 chain st.i.tches; repeat from *.
4th row: * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of the preceding row, 3 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the middle st.i.tch of each of the 8 scallops, consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row, 3 chain between, 3 chain; repeat from *. These 2 last rows (the third and fourth) are repeated on the other side of the foundation chain.
When the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together so that 2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the embroidery patterns and velvet ribbon.
283.--_Crochet Insertion_.
This pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers or pillow-cases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. If the insertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower border on which the b.u.t.ton-holes are made. Begin the insertion in the middle of one of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain of 9 st.i.tches; join them into a circle by making 1 slip st.i.tch, and crochet thus:--*
10 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the 5th of these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the circle, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4 slip st.i.tches in the next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5 double divided by 5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten the thread after having fastened the last 4 chain-st.i.tches with a slip st.i.tch to the 1st double st.i.tch of this round. This completes the star-like figure. Work on one side of these figures the following rows:--
1st row: * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the last of the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st scallop of the following 4 placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd scallop, 3 chain. Repeat from *.
2nd row: 3 treble in the 1st st.i.tch of the preceding row, * miss 3 st.i.tches, 3 treble in the 4th following st.i.tch. Repeat from *.
3rd row: * 3 treble cast off together as one st.i.tch on the next 3 st.i.tches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from *.
4th row: 1 double on the next st.i.tch of the preceding row, * 4 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3 double on the next 3 st.i.tches of the preceding row. Repeat from *. After having worked these four rows likewise on the other side of the star figures, work over the last the following 5 rows for the b.u.t.ton-holes:--
1st row: 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double in the next purl. Repeat from *.
2nd row: 1 double in each st.i.tch of the preceding row.
3rd row: Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which miss 7 st.i.tches.
4th row: Like the 2nd row.
5th row; * 3 double on the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the last double st.i.tch). Repeat from *.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 283.--Crochet Insertion.]
284.--_Crochet Insertion_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co."s crochet cotton No. 30.
This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton on a double foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl st.i.tches as follows:--1 double in the 1st st.i.tch, * 1 chain, 1 purl, consisting of 5 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the 1st 2 chain, 1 double in the next st.i.tch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work centre consists of 6 rows of scallops; the 1st of these rows is worked on the other side of the foundation chain; 1 double in the middle st.i.tch of every scallop, 5 chain between, then 1 row of slip st.i.tches, and finally a row of purl st.i.tches like the 1st row of the insertion. For the raised flowers, which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make a foundation chain of 10 st.i.tches, fasten it on over the grounding from ill.u.s.tration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the 1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of the 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip st.i.tch, 1 double, 1 long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip st.i.tch, then 1 slip st.i.tch in the 1st st.i.tch, * 9 chain, missing 5 st.i.tches under them, 1 double in the 6th st.i.tch; repeat from *. Each following row consists of 1 double in the middle st.i.tch of every scallop of the preceding row, 9 chain between. Then work the 1st row of the border on the other side of the insertion; 1 double in the 1st st.i.tch of the foundation, inserting the needle into the back part of the st.i.tch; repeat 8 times more from *, and the flower is completed.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 284.--Crochet Insertion.]
285.--_Crochet Garter_.
Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round white elastic cord; a pearl b.u.t.ton.
This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord; the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 285.--Crochet Garter.]
Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 st.i.tches, with red wool; take the elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work over it. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completed in the course of the two first rounds; the b.u.t.ton-hole is made at the beginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 st.i.tches, and, when you come to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain.
Increase the number of st.i.tches at either end of the garter, to round it off. When the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then a plain red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately 1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the first, missing 1 st.i.tch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl b.u.t.ton to correspond with the b.u.t.ton-hole. The garter would be both more elegant and more elastic if worked entirely in silk.
286.--_Crochet Tr.i.m.m.i.n.g for a Lady"s Chemise_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co."s crochet cotton, and a needle to match.
This pattern, as can be seen in ill.u.s.tration, is an imitation of old guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and sleeves, and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size. Both strips of rosettes join at that place, and one is continued for the part round the bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the pattern there are 42 rosettes round the bosom, and 14 round each sleeve. These rosettes are fastened one to another in the course of the work. They are made in the following manner:--Make a chain of 6 st.i.tches, and join it into a ring. 1st round: 8 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the 4th chain, which forms a purl (the 3 first chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the 1st to form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring. Repeat 6 times from *. Instead of the last treble, work a slip st.i.tch to fasten the end of the round to the 3 chain of the beginning, which thus form 1 treble. 2nd round: 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned as 1 treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain.
Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip st.i.tch in the treble at the beginning. 3rd round: On each scallop of preceding round work 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This completes the rosette.
Each rosette is fastened to the last by joining the 2 middle purl of both. In the ill.u.s.tration, which is full-size, the purl that are to be joined to those of another rosette are marked by a cross. The joining between the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same manner. The s.p.a.ce left between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star formed of chain st.i.tches, marked in our ill.u.s.tration with an asterisk.
For this star make a chain of 5 st.i.tches, the 1st of which forms the centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8 purl that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre st.i.tch. Repeat 7 times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them together 3 of these stars are required for each shoulder.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 286.--Crochet Tr.i.m.m.i.n.g for a Lady"s Chemise.]
For the Border.--It is worked at the same time both round the bosom and sleeves. 1st round: * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st scallop of the rosette, which we will call the _first rosette_; 5 chain, 1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd scallop of the same rosette, 4 chain; then work the kind of cross which comes between each rosette (see ill.u.s.tration). To make this cross throw the cotton 3 times round the needle, work 1 double treble in the last purl left free of the 1st rosette, keep the last loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round it, and work a double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd rosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the loop left on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last double treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * at each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1 slip st.i.tch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come to the next s.p.a.ce, where a cross is to be made. 2nd round: Work alternately 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over the 6 chain. The two rounds just explained are also worked round the upper edge, and finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1 double in one of the s.p.a.ces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next but one of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, 1 chain, 1 double in the next s.p.a.ce. Repeat from *. On the upper edge of the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1 round of crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the needle, so that the treble st.i.tches are not double; make 3 chain between each cross.
KNITTING.
287.--KNITTING, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is by no means so ancient as lacemaking. Knitting has never entirely quitted the hands of English and German ladies; indeed, among all good housewives of any civilised country, it is reckoned an indispensable accomplishment.
Knitting schools have been established of late years both in Ireland and Scotland, and Her Majesty the Queen has herself set an example of this industry, as well as largely patronised the industrial knitters of Scotland. Of the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at present ignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the following instructions are offered.
To knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread, cotton, silk, or wool are required.
Knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the size to be used depends entirely upon the material employed, whether thread, cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting. As the size of the needles depends upon that of the cotton, a knitting gauge is used (see No. 287). The gauge (page 290) is the exact size of Messrs. H. Walker and Co."s knitting gauge. Our readers will remark that English and foreign gauges differ very essentially; the finest size of German needles, for example, is No. 1, which is the size of the coa.r.s.est English wooden or ivory needle. Straight knitting is usually done with two needles only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &c., three, four, and five needles are employed.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 287.--Knitting Gauge.]
288.--_Casting On_.
This term is used for placing the first row or round of knitting st.i.tches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two ways--by "knitting on" the st.i.tches, or as follows:--
Hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left hand, throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a loop, and pa.s.s the needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly round the needle, pa.s.s it through the loop, and draw up the thread; this forms the first st.i.tch (see No. 288).
[Ill.u.s.tration: 288.--Casting On.]
289.--_To Knit On_.