32nd round and 33rd round: Purled.
34th and 35th rounds: With white wool. 34th round: Knitted.
35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Each st.i.tch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one st.i.tch in the next round.
36th to 38th round: With red wool.
36th round: Knitted.
37th and 38th rounds: Purled.
39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped st.i.tch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped st.i.tches.
[Ill.u.s.tration 326.--Baby"s Boot.]
Take now 18 st.i.tches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 st.i.tches untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool. 48th to 50th row: With red wool.
48th row: Knitted.
49th row: Purled.
50th row: Knitted.
51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern described in the 39th round. But as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit and purl the st.i.tches. Decrease 1 st.i.tch at the beginning and at the end of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 st.i.tch in the middle of the 85th row, so that the 85th row has 13 st.i.tches left. After this work with red wool.
86th row: Knitted.
87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1.
Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th, decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the whole number of st.i.tches, taking up the selvedge st.i.tches of the gored part and dividing them with the 30 other st.i.tches on four needles. Knit once more in rounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round purled. In the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together in the middle of the back part of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other round decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9 st.i.tches between the two decreasings. The number of st.i.tches between the decreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form slanting lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by knitting together 2 opposite st.i.tches on the wrong side. The sock part is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red st.i.tches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4 rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the st.i.tch always outside; then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-work row in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with ta.s.sels to match.
327.--_Knitted Border for a Bedquilt_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co."s No. 8 white knitting cotton; thick steel pins.
Cast on a sufficient number of st.i.tches for the length of the border, which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows:
5th row: Alternately make 1, knit 2 together.
Then 5 more plain rows.
[Ill.u.s.tration 327.--Knitted Border for a Bedquilt.]
Now begin the pattern:--1st row: * Make 1, knit 1 _slantways_ (to knit a st.i.tch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and from right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4 times more than from * to the end of the row.
2nd row: Purled.
3rd row: Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways.
Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
4th row: The same as the second.
The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our ill.u.s.tration. The increasing caused by knitting the _made_ st.i.tches is regularly repeated in each second row, so that the st.i.tches between the striped divisions increase, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the other hand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain this result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows, by purling together the two last st.i.tches of one purled division, so that each division has but eleven st.i.tches left in the 25th row. In the 28th row knit together one purled st.i.tch with one knitted slantways, so that there will be only 6 st.i.tches left for each division; these st.i.tches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. In the 31st row they are knitted together, two and two. There remain in each division three more st.i.tches, which are knitted together in the 34th row. Two rows entirely purled completethe upper edge of the border.
328.--_Knitted Quilt._
Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles.
This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different colours, and in that case each strip should contain 1 row of patterns; or the quilt may be composed of wide strips with several rows of patterns, those of one row being placed between those of the preceding. In the first case, that is if you work narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide strips are preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our pattern was worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip is knitted the short way.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 318.--Knitted Quilt.]
For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20 st.i.tches.
2nd row: Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make 1, purl 4.
Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2.
3rd row: Slip 1, knit all the st.i.tches that were purled in the preceding row, and purl all those that were made.
4th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2.
5th row: Slip 1, knit all the purled st.i.tches, purl all the rest.
6th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2.
7th row: The same as the 5th.
8th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and so on.
9th row: The same as the 5th row.
10th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pa.s.s the slipped st.i.tch over the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from *.
11th row: Knit all the purled st.i.tches, purl all the rest.
12th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pa.s.s the slipped st.i.tch over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *.
13th row: The same as the 11th.
14th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pa.s.s the slipped st.i.tch over, purl 4, and repeat.
15th row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2 together, knit 2.
The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are only 4 in this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped st.i.tch you purl 3 st.i.tches instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th made st.i.tch, you purl 4 more st.i.tches. Repeat alternately these 2 rows of raised patterns, and when you have a sufficient number of strips sew them together. Trim the quilt all round with a knotted fringe.