198 _and_ 199.--_Two Medallions for a Purse in Embroidery_.

Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk; steel or gold clasp.

These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may be employed on a variety of articles.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 198.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: 199.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.]

The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satin st.i.tch, the branched sprays in point Russe in scarlet and gold, the four largest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk.

Medallion No. 199 is worked entirely in point Russe, and may be embroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, or scarlet and black.

200.--_Work-Bag_.

Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours; embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; red cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 200.--Work Bag.]

This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The outside consists of drab cloth, trimmed with applique embroidery. The inside of the bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted in diamonds. The seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strap completes the whole. Cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut the satin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. After having traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces of coloured cloth in applique embroidery. The different figures are sewn over the centre partly in point Russe, partly in b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tches, with embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in chain st.i.tches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge must be bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. The ends of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded and lined with red satin; the outside worked in applique embroidery like the rest of the bag. All the seams are covered with red silk cord. The straps are fastened with a few st.i.tches, as seen in the ill.u.s.tration.

201 _to_ 203.--_Pattern for Braces_.

Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 201.--Pattern for Braces (full size).]

These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico ornamented with embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side with loose b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch and crochet vand.y.k.es in red wool.

Ill.u.s.tration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. Work first the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; work loose b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch and crochet vand.y.k.es on all the edges of the cross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on the tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter are then edged with b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch and crochet-vand.y.k.es. The vand.y.k.es are worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch under it; 1 double in the following b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, with b.u.t.ton-holes worked with red cotton. No. 203 shows another

[Ill.u.s.tration: 102.--Embroidered Braces.]

way of working these braces on fine ribbed pique. Work any Berlin wool work pattern in the common cross st.i.tch over the ribs of the pique. For the vand.y.k.e border work in every other b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, 2 double divided by 3 chain st.i.tches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 203.--Pattern for Braces (Full size).]

204.--_Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk_.

Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silver brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread.

This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and gold thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. The dark patterns are worked in applique with black velvet, the two other shades in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is worked in satin st.i.tch with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. The border can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is not intended to contrast with it. The pattern can also be worked entirely in silk with satin st.i.tch. The size of the border may, of course, be increased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must, in any case, form the centre of it.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 204.--Embroidery Border for a Reading Desk.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: 205.--Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.]

205.--_Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co."s embroidery cotton No. 6 and No. 12; net and muslin.

The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked over net. The outlines are worked in b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, and the veinings are sewn over, using the coa.r.s.e cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cut away all round the pattern.

206.--_Venetian Border._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co."s embroidery cotton No. 12 and No. 16; net and muslin.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 206.--Venetian Border.]

This design is elegant and effective, without there being a great deal of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening dresses or handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over, and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the ground work.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 207.--Lace Insertion.]

_207.--Lace Insertion._

Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net.

This lace insertion is first outlined in running st.i.tch upon the net; the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked in overcast st.i.tch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circle previously outlined; the lace st.i.tches in the centre are formed by gently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewn lightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace st.i.tches consisting of fine b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tches, very evenly worked over the entire s.p.a.ce surrounding the open holes.

To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. This pattern may be worked in applique by placing muslin over net, sewing all the outlines in fine overcast st.i.tch, and when finished, carefully cutting away the muslin.

208 _and_ 209.--_Slipper on Java Canvas._

Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle and purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; some wadding; 2 cork soles.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 208.--Slipper on Java Canvas.]

This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of light brown Java canvas, and embroidered in point Russe with green filoselle.

It is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. The soles are of cork. The slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is turned down inside. No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe st.i.tch nearly full size.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 209.--Point Russe St.i.tch for Slipper (No. 208)]

210 _and_ 211.--_Medallions in Point Russe_.

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