Still another curious custom was observed; but this was further on, and higher up the sides of the mountains. Their observation of it was attended with some degree of danger, and therefore came very close on being an "adventure." For this reason it found a place among the events recorded in their journal.
It should be remarked, that all three were mounted--Alexis and Ivan upon stout, active ponies, of that race for which the Pyrenees,--especially the western section of them,--are celebrated. Pouchskin"s mount was not of the genus _equus_, nor yet an _asinus_, but a hybrid of both genera,--in short, a mule.
It was a French mule, and a very large one: for it required a good-sized quadruped of the kind to make an appropriate roadster for the ex-grenadier of the Imperial guard. It was not a very fat mule, however, but raw-boned and gaunt as a Pyrenean wolf.
Of course these animals were all hired ones--obtained at Eaux Bonnes, and engaged for the trip across the Pyrenees to the Spanish side--as also to be used in any deviations that the hunters should think proper to make, while engaged in the pursuit of the bear.
From the nearest village on the Spanish side, the animals were to be sent back to their owner; for it was not the intention of our travellers to return to the French territory.
Having crossed the mountains, and accomplishing the object for which they had visited them, their course would then be continued southward, through Spain.
Along with them--also mounted on muleback--was a fourth individual, whose services they had secured. His _metier_ was manifold--on this occasion combining in his single person at least three purposes. First, he was to serve them as guide; secondly, he was to bring back the hired horses; and, thirdly, he was to aid them in the "cha.s.se" of the bear: for it so happened that this man-of-all-work was one of the most noted "izzard-hunters" of the Pyrenees. It is scarcely correct to say it _happened_ so. Rather was it a thing of design than chance; for it was on account of his fame as a hunter, that he had been engaged for the triple duty he was now called upon to fulfil.
The four travellers, then, all mounted as we have described, were ascending a very steep declivity. They had left the last hamlet--and even the last house--behind them; and were now climbing one of the outlying spurs that project many miles from the main axis of the mountains. The road they were following scarcely deserved the name; being a pack-road, or mere bridle-path; and so sleep was the ascent, that it was necessary to zigzag nearly a dozen times, before the summit of the ridge could be attained.
While entering upon this path, and near the base of the ridge, they had noticed the forms of men far above them, moving about the summit, as if engaged in some work. Their guide told them that these men were f.a.ggot-cutters, whose business was to procure firewood for the towns in the valley.
There was nothing in this bit of information to produce astonishment.
What _did_ astonish our travellers, however, was the mode in which these men transported their firewood down the mountain, of which, shortly after, they were treated to an exhibition. As they were zigzagging up the mountain-path, their ears were all at once saluted by a noise that resembled a crashing of stones, mingled with a crackling of sticks. The noise appeared to proceed from above; and, on looking up, they beheld a number of dark objects coming in full rush down the declivity. These objects were of rounded form--in fact, they were bundles of f.a.ggots--and so rapidly did they roll over, and make way down the mountain, that had our travellers chanced to be in their track, they might have found some difficulty in getting out of the way. Such was their reflection at the moment; and they were even thanking their stars that they had escaped the danger, when all at once a fresh avalanche of f.a.ggots was launched from above; and these were evidently bounding straight towards the party! It was impossible to tell which way to go--whether to rush forward or draw back: for what with the inequality of the mountain-side, and the irregular rolling of the bundles, they could not tell the exact direction they would take. All therefore drew up, and waited the result in silent apprehension. Of course they had not long to wait--scarce a second--for the huge bundles bounding on, each moment with increased impetus, came down with the suddenness of a thunderclap; and before the words "Jack Robinson" could have been p.r.o.nounced, they went whizzing past with the velocity of aerolites, and with such a force, that had one of them struck either mule or pony it would have hurled both the quadruped and its rider to the bottom of the mountain. It was only their good fortune that saved them: for in such a place it would have been impossible for the most adroit equestrian to have got out of the way. The path was not the two breadths of a horse; and to have wheeled round, or even drawn back upon it, would have been a risk of itself.
They rode on, again congratulating themselves on their escape; but fancy their consternation when they found themselves once more, and for the third time, exposed to the very same danger! Again came a set of bundles rolling and tearing down the slope, the billets rattling and crackling as they rolled; again they went swishing by; again, by the merest accident, did they miss the travellers, as they stood upon the path.
Now, it might be supposed that the f.a.ggots were being launched all along the ridge of the hill; and that, go which way they might, our party would still be exposed to the danger. Not so. The bundles were all rolled down at one particular place--where the slope was most favourable for this purpose--but it was the zigzag path, which every now and then obliqued across the line of the wood-avalanche, that had thus repeatedly placed them in peril.
As they had yet to "quarter" the declivity several times before they could reach the summit, they were more careful about approaching the line of descent; and whenever they drew near it, they put their ponies and mules to as good a speed as they could take out of them.
Though all four succeeded in reaching the summit in safety, it did not hinder Pouchskin from pouring out his vial of wrath on the heads of the offending woodcutters; and if they could have only understood his Russian, they would have heard themselves called by a good many hard names, and threatened with a second pursuit of Moscow. "Frog-eating Frenchmen!" was the very mildest t.i.tle which the ex-guardsman bestowed upon them; but as his Russian was not translated, of course the phrase fell harmless--else it would have undoubtedly been retaliated by a taunt about "tallow."
The "izzard-hunter" swore at them to more purpose; for he, too, having undergone equal risk with the rest of the party, had equally good reasons for being angry; and giving utterance to a long string of execrations with all the volubility of a Bearnais, he further threatened them with the terrors of the law.
As the woodcutters, slightly stupefied by this unexpected attack, submitted with tolerable grace, and said nothing in reply, the izzard-hunter at length cooled down, and the party proceeded on their way; Pouchskin, as he rode off, shaking his clenched fist at the staring log-choppers, and hissing out in angry aspirate another Russian shibboleth, which neither could nor should be translated.
CHAPTER TWENTY ONE.
A MEETING WITH MULETEERS.
A little beyond the scene of their encounter with the woodcutters, the path entered among the gorges of the mountains, and the level plains of France were for a time lost to their view. The route they were following was a mere bridle-track, quite impracticable for carriages, but leading to one of the "ports" already mentioned, by which they could pa.s.s through to the Spanish side. Through this port a considerable traffic is carried on between the two countries--most of the carrying being done by Spanish muleteers, who cross the mountains conducting large trains of mules--all, except those upon which they themselves ride, laden with packs and bales of merchandise.
That such a traffic was carried over this route, our Russian travellers needed no other evidence than what came under their own eyes; for shortly after, on rounding a point of rock, they saw before them a large drove of mules, gaily caparisoned with red cloth and stamped leather, and each carrying its pack. The gang had halted on a platform of no great breadth; and the drivers--about a dozen men in all--were seen seated upon the rocks, a little way in advance of the animals. Each wore a capacious cloak of brown cloth--a favourite colour among the Pyrenean Spaniards; and what with their swarthy complexions, bearded lips, and wild attire, it would have been pardonable enough to have mistaken them for a band of brigands, or, at all events, a party of _contrabandistas_.
They were neither one nor the other, however; but honest Spanish muleteers, on their way to a French market, with commodities produced on the southern side of the mountains.
As our travellers came up, they were in the act of discussing a luncheon, which consisted simply of black bread, tough goat"s-milk cheese, and thin Malaga wine--the last carried in a skin bag, out of which each individual drank in his turn, simply holding up the bag and pouring the wine by a small jet down his throat.
They were good-humoured fellows, and invited our travellers to taste their wine; which invitation it would have been ill-mannered to refuse.
Ivan and Alexis emptied some out into their silver cups--which they carried slung conveniently to their belts; but Pouchskin not having his can so ready, essayed to drink the wine after the fashion of the muleteers. But the goat-skin bag, clumsily manipulated in the hands of the old guardsman, instead of sending the stream into his mouth, jetted it all over his face and into his eyes, blinding and half-choking him!
As he stood in his stultified att.i.tude, wine-skin in hand, the precious fluid running down his nose, and dripping from the tips of his grand mustachios, he presented a picture that caused the muleteers to laugh till the tears ran down their cheeks; shouting out their _bravos_ and other exclamations, as if they were applauding some exquisite piece of performance in a theatre.
Pouchskin took it all in good part, and the muleteers pressed him to try again; but, not caring to expose himself to a fresh burst of ridicule, the old grenadier borrowed the cup of one of his young masters; and by the help of this managed matters a little more to his mind. As the wine tasted good to the old soldier"s palate, and as the hospitable muleteers invited him to drink as much as he pleased, it was not until the goat-skin bag exhibited symptoms of collapse, that he returned it to its owners.
Perhaps had Pouchskin not indulged so freely in the seducing Malaga tipple, he might have avoided a very perilous adventure which befell him almost on the instant, and which we shall now relate.
Our travellers, after exchanging some further civilities with the muleteers, had once more mounted, and were about proceeding on their way. Pouchskin, riding his great French jennet, had started in the advance. Just in front of him, however, the pack mules were standing in a cl.u.s.ter--not only blocking up the path, but barring the way on both sides--so that to get beyond them it would be necessary to pa.s.s through their midst. The animals all seemed tranquil enough--some picking at the bushes that were within their reach, but most of them standing perfectly still, occasionally shaking their long ears, or changing one leg to throw the weight upon another. Pouchskin saw that it was necessary to pa.s.s among them; and, probably, had he squeezed quietly through, they might have remained still, and taken no notice of him.
But, elated with the wine he had drunk, the ex-grenadier, instead of following this moderate course, drove his spurs into his great French hybrid, and with a loud charging yell--such as might have issued from the throat of a Cossack--he dashed right into the midst of the drove.
Whether it was because the animal he bestrode was French, or whether something in Pouchskin"s voice had sounded ill in their ears, it is not possible to say, but all, at once the whole Spanish _mulada_ was perceived to be in motion--each individual mule rushing towards Pouchskin with p.r.i.c.ked ears, open mouth, and tail elevated in the air!
It was too late for him to hear the cry of the izzard-hunter, "_prenez-garde_!" or the synonym, "_guarda te_!" of the muleteers. He may have heard both these cautionary exclamations, but they reached him too late to be of any service to him: for before he could have counted six, at least twice that number of mules had closed round him, and with a simultaneous scream commenced snapping and biting at both him and his French roadster with all the fury of famished wolves! In vain did the stalwart jennet defend itself with its shod hoofs, in vain did its rider lay round him with his whip: for not only did the Spanish mules a.s.sail him with their teeth, but, turning tail as well, they sent their heels whistling around his head, and now and then thumping against his legs, until his leather boots and breeches cracked under their kicks!
Of course the muleteers, on perceiving Pouchskin"s dilemma, had rushed instantaneously to the rescue; and with loud cries and cracking of their whips--as muleteers alone can crack them--were endeavouring to beat off the a.s.sailants. But, with all their exertions, backed by their authority over the animals, Pouchskin might have fared badly enough, had not an opportunity offered for extricating himself. His animal, fleeing from the persecution of its Spanish enemies, had rushed in among some boulders of rock. Thither it was hotly pursued; and Pouchskin would again have been overtaken, had he not made a very skilful and extensive leap out of the saddle, and landed himself on a ledge of rock. From this he was able to clamber still higher, until he had reached a point that entirely cleared him of the danger.
The French jennet, however, had still to sustain the attack of the infuriated mules; but, now that it was relieved from the enc.u.mbrance of its heavy rider, it gained fresh confidence in its long legs; and making a dash through the midst of the _mulada_, it struck off up the mountain-path, and galloped clear out of sight. The mules, enc.u.mbered with their packs, did not show any inclination to follow, and the drama was thus brought to a termination.
The woe-begone look of the old guardsman, as he stood perched upon the high pinnacle of rock, was again too much for the muleteers; and one and all of them gave utterance to fresh peals of laughter. His young masters were too much concerned about their faithful Pouchskin to give way to mirth; but on ascertaining that he had only received a few insignificant bruises,--thanks to the Spanish mules not being shod,-- they, too, were very much disposed to have a laugh at his expense.
Alexis was of opinion that their follower had made rather free with the wine-skin; and therefore regarded the chastis.e.m.e.nt rather in the light of a just retribution.
It cost the izzard-hunter a chase before Pouchskin"s runaway could be recovered; but the capture of the jennet was at length effected; and, all things being set to-rights, a parting salute was once more exchanged with the muleteers, and the travellers proceeded on their way.
CHAPTER TWENTY TWO.
THE PYRENEAN BEARS.
It was well they had the izzard-hunter for a guide, for without him they might have searched a long time without finding a bear. These animals, although plenteous enough in the Pyrenees some half-century ago, are now only to be met with in the most remote and solitary places. Such forest-tracts, as lie well into the interior gorges of the mountains, and where the lumberer"s axe never sounds in his ears, are the winter haunts of the Pyrenean bear; while in summer he roams to a higher elevation--along the lower edge of the snowfields and glaciers, where he finds the roots and bulbs of many Alpine plants, and even lichens, congenial to his taste. He sometimes steals into the lower valleys, where these are but spa.r.s.ely cultivated; and gathers a meal of young maize, or potatoes, where such are grown. Of truffles he is as fond as a Parisian sybarite,--scenting them with a keenness far excelling that of the regular truffle dog, and "rooting" them out from under the shade of the great oak trees, where these rare delicacies are inexplicably produced.
Like his near congener, the brown bear, he is frugivorous; and, like most other members of their common family, he possesses a sweet tooth, and will rob bees of their honey whenever he can find a hive. He is carnivorous at times, and not unfrequently makes havoc among the flocks that in summer are fed far up on the declivities of the mountains; but it has been observed by the shepherds, that only odd individuals are given to this sanguinary practice, and, as a general rule, the bear will not molest their sheep. On this account, a belief exists among the mountaineers that there are two kinds of bears in the Pyrenees; one, an eater of fruits, roots, and _larvae_,--the other, of more carnivorous habits, that eats flesh, and preys upon such animals as he can catch.
The latter they allege to be larger, of more fierce disposition, and when a.s.sailed, caring not to avoid an encounter with man. The facts may be true, but the deduction erroneous. The izzard-hunter"s opinion was that the Pyrenean bears were all of one species; and that, if there were two kinds, one was a younger and more unsophisticated sort, the other a bear whom greater age has rendered more savage in disposition. The same remark will apply to the Pyrenean bear that is true of the _ursus arctos_,--viz., having once eaten flesh, he acquires a taste for it; and to gratify this, of course the fiercest pa.s.sions of his nature are called into play. Hunger may have driven him to his first meal of flesh-meat; and afterwards he seeks it from choice.
The izzard-hunter"s father remembered when bears were common enough in the lower valleys; and then not only did the flocks of sheep and goats suffer severely, but the larger kinds of cattle were often dragged down by the ravenous brutes--even men lost their lives in encounters with them! In modern times, such occurrences were rare, as the bears kept high up the mountains, where cattle were never taken, and where men went very seldom. The hunter stated, that the bears were much sought after by hunters like himself, as their skins were greatly prized, and fetched a good price; that the young bears were also very valuable, and to capture a den, of cubs was esteemed a bit of rare good luck: since these were brought up to be used in the sports of bear-baiting and bear-dancing, spectacles greatly relished in the frontier towns of France.
He knew of no particular mode for taking bears. Their chase was too precarious to make it worth while; and they were only encountered accidentally by the izzard-hunters, when in pursuit of their own regular game. Then they were killed by being shot, if old ones; and if young, they captured them by the aid of their dogs.
"So scarce are they," added the hunter, "that I have killed only three this whole season; but I know where there"s a fourth--a fine fellow too; and if you feel inclined--"
The young Russians understood the hint. Money is all-powerful everywhere; and a gold coin will conduct to the den of a Pyrenean bear, where the keenest-scented hound or the sharpest-sighted hunter would fail to find it. In an instant almost, the bargain was made. Ten dollars for the haunt of the bear!
The _Pic du Midi d"Ossau_ was now in sight; and, leaving the beaten path that pa.s.sed near its base, our hunters turned off up a lateral ravine.
The sides and bottom of this ravine were covered with a stunted growth of pine-trees; but as they advanced further into it, the trees a.s.sumed greater dimensions--until at length they were riding through a tall and stately forest. It was, to all _appearance_, as wild and primitive as if it had been on the banks of the Amazon or amid the Cordilleras of the Andes. Neither track nor trail was seen--only the paths made by wild beasts, or such small rodent animals as had their home there.
The izzard-hunter said that he had killed lynxes in this forest; and at night he would not care to be alone in it, as it was a favourite haunt of the black wolves. With, such company, however, he had no fear: as they could kindle fires and keep the wolves at bay.
The neighbourhood, in which he expected to find the bear, was more than two miles from the place where they had entered the forest. He knew the exact spot where the animal was at that moment lying--that is, he knew its cave. He had seen it only a few days before going into this cave; but as he had no dogs with him, and no means of getting the bear out, he had only marked the place, intending to return, with a comrade to help him. Some business had kept him at Eaux Bonnes, till the arrival of the strangers; and learning their intentions, he had reserved the prize for them. He had now brought his dogs--two great creatures they were, evidently of lupine descent--and with these Bruin might be baited till he should come forth from his cave. But that plan was only to be tried as a last resource. The better way would be to wait till the bear started out on his midnight ramble,--a thing he would be sure to do,-- then close up the mouth of the cave, and lie in ambush for his return.
He would "not come home till morning," said the izzard-hunter; and they would have light to take aim, and fire at him from their different stations.
It seemed a feasible plan, and as our adventurers now placed themselves in the hands of the native hunter, it was decided they should halt where they were, kindle a fire, and make themselves as comfortable as they could, until the hour when Bruin might be expected to go out upon his midnight prowl.
A roaring fire was kindled; and Pouchskin"s capacious haversack being turned inside out, all four were soon enjoying their dinner-supper with that zest well-known to those who have ridden twenty miles up a steep mountain-road.