These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the capture of the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine adapted to the grizzly, and known as the "bear tamer."
They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although a large portion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They should be selected with care, and the springs always tested [Page 138]
before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are also other necessary qualities in a steel trap, which we subjoin in order that the amateur may know how to judge and select his weapons judiciously.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.
1. _The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered_. In the cheaper cla.s.s of steel traps the jaws approach to the thinness of sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edges often sever the leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At other times the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal to gnaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, with many animals.
2. _The pan should not be too large_. This is a very common fault with many steel traps and often defeats its very object. Where the pan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it, will be directly in the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is thus firmly secured far up on the leg. On the other hand, a large pan nearly filling the s.p.a.ce between the jaws as the trap is set, may be sprung by a touch on its extreme edge, and the animal"s toe is thus likely to get slightly pinched, if indeed the paw is not thrown off altogether by the forcible snap of the jaw.
3. _The springs should be strong, scientifically tempered, and proportioned_. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring will always remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never losing its elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless in a spring badly formed or clumsily tapered.
4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the spring a proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie _flat_ when open, and should always work easily on their hinges.
5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain with ring and swivel attached, and in every case the swivel should turn easily.
The celebrated "Newhouse Trap" embodies all the above requisites, and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence second to no other in this or any other country.
They are made in eight sizes, as follows:
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 0.]
This is the smallest size and is known as the RAT TRAP. It has a single spring, and the jaws spread three and a half inches when set.
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[Ill.u.s.tration]
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[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 1.]
This size is called the MUSKRAT TRAP, and the jaws spread four inches. It is especially designed for the capture of the mink, marten, and animals of similar size.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 2.]
This is known in the trade as the MINK TRAP, and the jaws spread nearly five inches. It is adapted for the fox, racc.o.o.n, or fisher.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 2-1/2.]
This size is called the FOX TRAP. The spread of the jaws is the same as in the foregoing, but the trap is provided with two springs, and consequently has double the power. It is strong enough for the otter, and is generally used for the capture of the fox and fisher.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 3.]
No.3 goes by the name of the OTTER TRAP. The jaws spread five and a half inches, and the powerful double springs do excellent service in the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, opossum, wild cat, and animals of like size.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 4.]
Commonly called the BEAVER TRAP. Jaws spread six and a half inches.
This size is especially adapted to the wolf, lynx or wolverine. It may also be set for deer, and extra sets of jaws are made expressly for this purpose, being easily inserted in the place of the ordinary jaws, when desired.
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[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 6.]
This is known as the "GREAT BEAR TAMER," and is a most formidable weapon. The jaws spread sixteen inches, and the weight of the machine is forty-two pounds. It is extensively used in the capture of the moose and grizzly bear, and is the largest and most powerful steel trap made in this or any other country. The springs possess most tremendous power, and require to be set by a lever, as the weight of an ordinary man has not the slightest effect upon them. This lever may be easily applied, as follows: Have at hand four stout straps, supplied with buckles. These should always be carried by the trapper, where the larger double-spring traps are used. To adjust the lever, cut four heavy sticks about three feet long.
Take two of them and secure their ends together, side by side, with one of the straps. Now insert the spring of the trap between them, near the strap. Bear down heavily on the other extremity of the lever, and the spring will be found to yield easily, after which the remaining ends of the levers should be secured by a second strap. The other spring should now be treated in the same way, after which the jaws should be spread and the pan adjusted. The removal of the straps and levers is now an easy matter, after which [Page 143]
the trap is set. The stoutest spring is easily made to yield by such treatment.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 5.]
The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread nearly a foot, and the weight of the trap is seventeen pounds. It is used in the capture of the black bear, puma, and animals of similar size.
All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains.
HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
There is a very common and erroneous idea current among amateur sportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the steel trap; viz., that the pan of the trap is intended for the _bait_. This was the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no modern trap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed often defeat its object in such a case, wherein it will be easily [Page 144]
seen. The object of the professional trapper is the acquisition of furs; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise, from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of course catch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would be more or less injured at the very spot where it should be particularly free from blemish.
The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the animal by the _leg_, thus injuring the skin only in a part where it is totally valueless.
We give, then, this imperative rule--_Never bait a steel trap on the pan_.
The pan is intended for the _foot_ of the game, and in order to insure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as that the attention of the animal will be _drawn away_ from the trap; the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim to _step in it_ when reaching for the tempting allurement.
There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here ill.u.s.trate.
A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first constructed.
The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait attached to the end stake directly over it. Another method is shown in the picture on our t.i.tle-page to this section, the bait being suspended on a stick above the trap. There are various other methods on the same principle, which will be described hereafter, under the t.i.tles of the various game.
THE SPRING POLE.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, in the capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts the creature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey to other animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victim by the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common mode of release with many kinds of game--notably the mink, marten, and muskrat; and for the successful trapping of these, as well as many other animals, the spring and sliding pole are absolute necessities.
It is a simple contrivance, consisting merely of a pole inserted in the ground near the trap. The pole is then bent down, and the trap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg is next driven into the ground and the top of the pole caught in it, and thus held in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its struggles release the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk, [Page 145]
lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reach of marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation.
Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves to good purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so violent as to break a stout trap or chain; and the force of the spring pole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its feet, often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a trap from being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must of course be proportionate to the weight of the desired game.
THE SLIDING POLE.
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