[B] BARMOUTH, near the conflux of the river Maw, or Mawddach, is a village singularly situated; the houses are disposed, either among the sand, in a low situation, or at different heights on the side of a huge rock, like a part of the city of Edinburgh, and are said to resemble the town of Gibraltar. These houses form eight tiers, to which there is no approach, but by steps cut in the rock. The floors of one row are about level with the tops of the chimnies immediately in front; so that a person standing at his door may look down the chimnies of the neighbourhood below. The first range regales the second with its smoke, the second the third, &c. till we arrive at the uppermost, which, in a westerly wind, takes the mixed perfume of all. Barmouth is the port of Merionethshire, not far from which the river Mawddach has its commencement. "Proceeding along the banks of this river towards Dolgelly," says Mr. Bingley, "when it was high water, the whole bed of the river being filled, made the different landscapes in the scene appear truly picturesque. The first two miles which lay along, what the inhabitants of Barmouth call, the Beach, formed the most interesting part of the journey. In the composition of the views, scarcely any thing appeared wanting; there was every requisite of mountain and vale, wood, water, meadows, and rocks, arranged in beautiful order. Beyond the beach, the road winds at a little distance from the river, among the low mountains; and from different stations, I had views of the most elegant and picturesque landscapes, the river partly hidden by intervening mountains. This stream is much diminished in width and depth: at present it will not admit so much as a pleasure-boat to reach Dolgelly, which obliges company to walk three-quarters of a mile to the town."
[Sidenote: A very curiously built town.]
[C] BARNARD CASTLE. The castle from which the town appears to have derived its name, was founded by Barnard, son of Guy Baliol, who accompanied William the Conqueror to England, and to whom William Rufus granted the n.o.ble forests of Teesdale and Marwood. Edward the First, determined to mortify the Bishop of Durham and to abridge his power; he, therefore, gave this castle to Guy Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, in whose family it continued for five generations. It afterwards came to the crown, and the tyrant Richard III. who took very great delight in this place, contributed much to its beauty by the most tasteful embellishments; his armorial bearings still appear, not only on the castle but over many parts of the town, and it has been a crown domain ever since. Hutchinson in his history of the county of Durham, describes the remains of the castle as covering about six acres and three quarters of ground. The parts which were of chief strength, stand on the very brink of a steep rock, about eighty feet above the level of the river Tees, commanding a most beautiful prospect up the river. The area on the side of the market-place, appears not to have had any communication with the chief strongholds and bulwarks of the fortress, and is separated from the interior buildings by a deep fosse which surrounds the rest of the castle. In an adjoining ground called the Flatts, is a large reservoir cut in swampy ground; water was collected and conveyed to the castle in pipes, to supply the garrison and cattle enclosed within the walls of the outer areas in times of public danger. This area is now a pasture for sheep, and other parts enclosed by the walls have been converted into orchards.
_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Wednesday in Easter and Whitsun Week, St. James"s Day, and July 25, for horses, cattle, and sheep.--_Bankers_, W. Skinner and Co. draw on Barclay and Co.--_Inns_, King"s Head, and Rose and Crown.--_Mail_ arrives 6.40 morning; departs 2.40 afternoon.
[Sidenote: Guy Baliol.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+-----------------+----------+--------------+-----------+ 36Barnardiston paSuffolkClare 4Haverhill 445Barnbow toW.R. YorkLeeds 6Tadcaster 945Barnbrough[A] paW.R. YorkDoncaster 7Rotherham 836Barnby paSuffolkBeccles 4Lowestoft 743Barnby toN.R. YorkWhitby 5Guisboro 1630Barnby-on-Moor toNottinghamEast Retford 3Bawtry 5+--+-----------------+----------+--------------+-----------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.
+--+-----------------+-------------------------+-----+-----+ 36Barnardiston paNewmarket 125920645Barnbow toAbberford 419045Barnbrough[A] paBarnsley 1016752036Barnby paBungay 1111130343Barnby toScarborough 2323822430Barnby-on-Moor toBlyth 3148206+--+-----------------+-------------------------+-----+-----+
[A] BARNBROUGH. The church is dedicated to Saint Peter, and contains a rude painting commemorative of "a serious contest that took place between a man and a wild cat." This conflict, which every body in Barnbrough firmly believes, is said to have occurred about the middle of the fifteenth century, between Percival Cresacre, lord of the manor, and a wild cat o" mountain. He is reported to have been attacked in one of the little woods in the neighbourhood, by this furious animal, and a running fight was kept up till they reached the church porch, where the mortal combat ended in the death of both. That some such circ.u.mstance did occur, is conjectured from the crest which the family afterwards adopted, viz. a cat o" mountain, which is still to be seen on the tower of the church; and the tradition is said to be further confirmed by the figure of an animal at the foot of the oak statue of this Cresacre, and also a rubiginous stone in the pavement of the porch of the church. We have many evidences in history that cats were beasts of chase, particularly in the charter of Ranulph Piperking, granted by Edward the Confessor:--
Hart and hind, doe and bock, Fox and cat, hare and brock.
and again,
Four greyhounds and six raches, For hare and fox and wild cates.
In the church is an ancient monument of Alicia Cresacre, wife of the above gentleman, who died in 1450, on which is carved in old text:--
Our bodys in stonys lye full still, Our saulys in wandyr at G.o.dys will.
In the north chancel is the monument of Percival Cresacre, a richly decorated altar-tomb under a flat arch, at the crown of which is the family arms, viz. three lions rampant, purple, on a gold shield. The effigies of Cresacre is in fine preservation, composed of carved oak, and representing a knight in a suite of plate armour, with his arms painted on a shield, and an animal (supposed to be a lion) at his feet.
His sword which hung from his belt has been taken away, and both monuments are decorated with the favorite device of the family, a rosary of beads.
[Sidenote: Contest between the lord of the manor and a wild cat.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+--------------------+----------+----------+----------+ 30Barnby-in-Willows paNottinghamNewark 4Lincoln 1637Barnes paSurreyKingston 6Chiswick 237Barn-Elms[A] hamSurrey... 6... 2+--+--------------------+----------+----------+----------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.
+--+--------------------+---------------------+-----+----+ 30Barnby-in-Willows paGrantham 1412423737Barnes paWandsworth 35141737Barn-Elms[A] ham... 35+--+--------------------+---------------------+-----+----+
[A] BARN-ELMS. On the adjoining common stood the house in which the members of the celebrated Kit Cat Club a.s.sembled. Their original place of meeting was in London, but Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, who was their secretary, caused it to be transferred to a house belonging to himself, at Barn-Elms, and built a handsome room for their accommodation. The portrait of each member was painted by Sir G.o.dfrey Kneller, but the apartment not being sufficiently large to receive half-length pictures, a shorter canvas was adopted, and hence proceeded the technical term of Kit Cat size. We give a further account of this club from the graphic pen of Sir Richard Phillips, in his "Morning"s Walk from London to Kew," 1817. "A lane in the north-west corner of the common brought me to Barn-Elms, where now resides a Mr. h.o.a.re, a banker, of London. The family were from home, and I had some difficulty to gain admittance, the servants knowing nothing either of the club, or its former occupant. A walk covered with docks, thistles, nettles, and high gra.s.s, led from the remains of a gateway in the garden wall to the door which opened into the building. Ah! thought I, through this desolate avenue, the finest geniuses in England daily proceeded to meet their friends. Yet, within a century, how changed--how deserted--how revolting! A cold chill seized me as the man unfastened the decayed door, and I beheld the once elegant hall filled with cobwebs, a fallen ceiling, and acc.u.mulating rubbish. The door on the left led to a s.p.a.cious, and once superb, staircase--now in ruins. The entire building, for want of ventilation, having become food for the fungus, called dry-rot, the timbers had lost its cohesive powers. I ascended the staircase, therefore, with a degree of danger to which my conductor would not expose himself, but was well requited for my pains. Here I found the Kit-Cat Club-room, nearly as it existed in the days of its glory. It is 18 feet high, and 40 feet long, by 20 wide. The mouldings and ornaments were in the most superb fashion of its age, but the whole was falling to pieces from the effects of the dry-rot. My attention was chiefly attracted by the faded cloth-hangings of the room, whose red colour once set off the famous portraits of the club that hung around it. Their marks and sizes were still visible, and their numbers and names remained, as written in chalk for the guidance of the hanger. Thus was I, as it were, brought into contact with Addison and Steele, and Congreve, and Garth, and Dryden, and with many hereditary n.o.bles, remembered only because they were patrons of those natural n.o.bles. I read their names aloud--I invoked their departed spirits--I was appalled by the echo of my own voice. The holes in the floor, the forest of cobwebs in the windows, and a swallow"s nest in the corner of the ceiling, proclaimed that I was viewing a vision of the dreamers of a past age; that I saw realized before me the speaking vanities of the anxious career of man. On rejoining Mr. h.o.a.re"s servant in the hall below, he informed me that his master intended to pull the building down, and form of it a riding-house. I learn that this design has since been executed. The Kit-Cat pictures were painted early in the eighteenth century, and about the year 1710 were brought to this spot, but the room I have been describing was not built till ten or fifteen years afterwards. They were 42 in number, and are now in the possession of a Mr. Baker, of Hertingford-bury, where I lately saw them splendidly lodged, and in fine preservation. It may be proper to observe, that the house of Mr. h.o.a.re was not the house of Mr. Tonson, and that Mr.
Tonson"s house stood nearer to the Kit-Cat club-rooms, having a few years since been taken down." A person died in this place, leaving in his will an annual sum, to be laid out in roses to be planted on his grave. The spot is distinguished by a stone tablet on the outside of the wall of the church, enclosed by pales, with some rose-trees planted on each side of it. This tablet is dedicated to the memory of Edward Rose, citizen of London, who died in 1653, and left 20. to the poor of Barnes, for the purchase of an acre of land, on condition that the pales should be kept up, and the rose-trees preserved.
[Sidenote: Kit Cat Club house.]
[Sidenote: As described by Sir Richard Phillips in 1817.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ 18Barnet-Chipping[A] m.t.HertsSt. Albans 10Whetstone 218Barnet, East paHertsEnfield 5Highgate 625Barnet, Friern[B] paMiddles.e.xFinchley 2Barnet 324Barnetby-le-Wold paLincolnGlanford-Br 6Caistor 727Barney paNorfolkFakenham 6Walsingham 536Barnham vilSuffolkThetford 3Ixworth 738Barnham paSuss.e.xArundel 5Chichester 727Barnham-Broom paNorfolkWymondham 5Norwich 9+--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.
+--+-----------------------+----------+------------+-----+------+ 18Barnet-Chipping[A] m.t.Hatfield 911236918Barnet, East paBarnet 31054725Barnet, Friern[B] paHornsey 4954324Barnetby-le-Wold paBarton 1016253227Barney paHolt 711526336Barnham vilBury 108138438Barnham paBognor 36014827Barnham-Broom paHingham 6105463+--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+------+
[A] BARNET. This small busy town occupies an elevated situation on the high north road; and near this place was fought, in the year 1471, the famous battle between the houses of York and Lancaster, which terminated in the death of the Earl of Warwick, and established King Edward the Fourth upon the throne. An obelisk was erected by Sir Jeremy Sambrook, in memory of the battle in the year 1740. In the church is an altar monument in commemoration of Thomas Ravensworth, Esquire, whose effigy, in a rec.u.mbent position, is represented on the tomb in veined marble. He died in 1630. Several others of his family are also buried here; and among these, James, his eldest son, who erected and endowed an alms-house, or hospital in Barnet, "for six poor ancient women, being widows or maidens, inhabitants of the town; and neither common beggars, common drunkards, back-biters, tale-bearers, common scolds, thieves or other like persons of infamous life, or evil name or repute; or vehemently suspected of sorcerie, witchcraft, or charming, or guilty of perjury: nor any ideot or lunatic are admitted." The annual value of the original endowment is now about 45.; besides which, the trustees have a further income of 30. annually, arising from other sources. Another alms-house for six poor widows, was built and endowed about the year 1723, under the will of John Garrett, Gent., who bequeathed 800. for that purpose. Near the race ground, on Barnet Common, is a mineral spring, of a mild purgative nature, that was discovered about the middle of the 17th century, and was formerly in much repute. A few years ago a subscription was made for arching it over and erecting a pump. The town is at present governed by a presiding magistrate, a high constable and subordinate officers. The inhabitants of this township enjoy a very extensive common right over the adjoining wastes and chace. Between Barnet and South Mims, an extensive improvement has been effected in the road, which was a series of angular turnings and unnecessary hills, to an extent which renders it surprising how such glaring imperfections were suffered to exist, when a sufficiently direct line could be obtained.
_Market_, Monday. _Fairs_ April 8, 9, 10, linen drapery, mercery, toys, &c. The harvest fair or Welsh fair, September 4, 5, Welsh cattle and horses; Sept. 6, mercery, &c. and sometimes a few horses, pigs, &c. The Leeds Mail arrives 9.11 evening, departs 7.48 evening.
The Glasgow mail arrives 9.20 evening; departs 4.18 morning. _Inns_, Duke of Wellington, Green Man, and Red Lion.
[Sidenote: Battle between the houses of York and Lancaster.]
[Sidenote: Mineral spring.]
[B] BARNET, (Friern). John Walker, the author of a celebrated dictionary, was a native of this place, and was born in the year 1732.
About the year 1767, he joined with a Mr. Usher in setting up a school at Kensington; this speculation not succeeding he removed to London, where he gave lectures on elocution. It is said that in his early youth he studied the art, intending to make the stage his profession, although his very questionable success induced him to adopt another pursuit. Mr.
Walker was an amiable as well as a learned man; he was the author of several elementary works: such as "The Rhetorical Grammar," "Elements of Elocution," "Key to the correct p.r.o.nunciation of Greek, Latin, and Scriptural names," and a "Rhyming Dictionary." He died at his house in Tottenham Court Road, August 1, 1807. This parish includes the hamlet of Colney Hatch, half of Whetstone, and a part of Finchley Common.
[Sidenote: Birth place of Walker, author of the p.r.o.nouncing dictionary.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+---------------------+----------+--------------+------------+ 7Barnhill hamChesterChester 10Tarporley 836Barningham paSuffolkIxworth 5Botesdale 744Barningham pa & toN.R. YorkGreta Bridge 2Richmond 1027Barningham, Little paNorfolkAylsham 6Holt 627Barningham paNorfolk8527Barningham Winter paNorfolk6724Barnoldby-le-Beck paLincolnGrimsby 6Caistor 845Barnoldswick pa & toW.R. YorkColne 5Skipton 67Barnsham toChesterKnutsford 6Middlewich 715Barnsley paGloucesterCirencester 4Burford 1345Barnsley[A] m.t. & toW.R. YorkYork 39Rotherham 1311Barnstaple[B] bo.& mtDevonExeter 38S. Molton 12+--+---------------------+----------+--------------+------------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.
+--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+------+ 7Barnhill hamMalpas 417236Barningham paThetford 98251444Barningham pa & toBarnard Cas. 523855027Barningham, Little paCromer 811922727Barningham pa51214227Barningham Winter pa812011424Barnoldby-le-Beck paLouth 1616523245Barnoldswick pa & toc.l.i.theroe 1022327247Barnsham toCongleton 817015Barnsley paFairford 68631845Barnsley[A] m.t. & toHudderfield 171721033011Barnstaple[B] bo.& mtIlfracomb 101936840+--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+------+
[A] BARNSLEY. This large market town is built chiefly of stone, but being surrounded by coal pits and iron works, the smoke from which obscures the air, it is generally known by the name of Black Barnsley.
The black gla.s.s bottles made here are of excellent quality, and the manufacture of linen is carried on to a great extent. Here also is made the best wire in the kingdom for needles. The town is seated on the side of a hill; the trade and population have considerably increased since the completion of the navigable ca.n.a.l, by means of which communications are opened with Wakefield, and all parts of the kingdom. The land in the vicinity of this town is highly distinguished for its fertility; the manor is possessed by the Duke of Leeds.
_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Wednesday before Feb. 28, horned cattle and swine; May 12, ditto; October 10, ditto, horses, and cheese.--_Mail_ arrives 2.55 afternoon; departs 11.31 night.--_Bankers_, Becket and Co., draw on Glyn and Co.--_Inns_, King"s Head, and White Bear.
[Sidenote: The trade.]
[B] BARNSTAPLE is said to derive its name from Bar, which in the ancient British signified the mouth of a river; and the Saxon word Staple, a mart. It is situated in the hundred of Braunton, and returns two members to parliament. The town appears to have been incorporated by Henry I., yet it retains some traces of feudal jurisdiction; a number of common burgesses claiming a right to vote with the corporate officers for members of parliament. The 10. householders are about 607; the returning officer is the mayor, who with two bailiffs, two aldermen, twenty-two common councilmen, and other officers form the corporation.
Barnstaple is one of the neatest and most respectable towns in the county; it lies on the eastern bank of the river Taw, in a broad and fertile vale, bounded by a semi-circular range of hills. The Taw here spreads to a considerable breadth, but from the great acc.u.mulation of sand, the port is shallow, and vessels of more than 200 tons are not able to enter. Over the river is a bridge of sixteen arches, which is said to have been built by one of the Tracys, at the time that family were lords of the manor. The streets are s.p.a.cious and regular, and the buildings generally good. The town, indeed, boasts some of the marks of a metropolis; there are b.a.l.l.s every fortnight, and a regular theatre, and nothing but a good pavement is wanted to make it highly agreeable. A n.o.ble quay extends some way along the river, terminated by a handsome piazza, over the centre of which stands the statue of Queen Anne, with an inscription, testifying to the loyalty of Robert Rolle, of Stevenstone, in this county, the erector. The woollen trade formerly carried on here with considerable spirit, greatly increased the wealth of the town, and enabled its inhabitants to erect a number of very respectable houses: this trade has of late failed, but the manufacture of baize, silk stockings and waistcoat pieces, still gives life to the place. Besides this source of wealth and population, the beauty of the surrounding country, and the cheapness of provisions, have induced many respectable families to reside here entirely; a circ.u.mstance which renders Barnstaple the most genteel town in the north of Devon. Here is a celebrated Grammar School, which has been founded about three centuries, and is famous for having educated a number of distinguished men; among whom were John Jewel, Bishop of Salisbury: his Theological antagonist, Thomas Harding, Professor at Louvain: the poet Gay, and the learned Dr. Musgrave. Bishop Jewel was a learned divine, who lived in the reigns of the last sovereigns of the house of Tudor, and was born near Ilfracombe, in 1522. Having acquired the rudiments of his learning in this school, he was removed to Merton College, Oxford. He was a most zealous and able champion of the Christian faith; and was indefatigable in the pursuit of knowledge, even at the expense of his health, which was materially injured by the closeness of his application. About the year 1551, he obtained the rectory of Sunningwell, in Berkshire, where he was much beloved for his zeal and a.s.siduity as a parish priest. When Queen Mary succeeded her brother Edward, Jewel was deprived of an office he held in the university; and, notwithstanding he subscribed to a confession of faith drawn up by the Catholics, yet suspicions were entertained of his sincerity, and fearing he should be prosecuted as an heretic, he withdrew from Oxford, and made his escape to the continent.
On the death of Queen Mary, Jewel returned to England, and was received very favorably by Queen Elizabeth, who raised him to the bishop.r.i.c.k of Salisbury, in the year 1560. From this time until the day of his death, he was princ.i.p.ally engaged in his pastoral duties, and in the defence and support of the Protestant faith. He died September 1571. The admirable moralist and poet, Gay, was also educated in this school; he was the composer of "The Beggar"s Opera," the notion of which appears to have been afforded by Swift. The purpose of this singular performance, was to bring into ridicule the Italian Opera, and it is not easy to define the mixture of pathos and ridicule which distinguishes this remarkable production. His celebrated "Fables," written for the instruction of the Duke of c.u.mberland, have been the means of unqualified delight to millions. His first poem, ent.i.tled "Rural Sports," and dedicated to Mr. Pope, gained him the friendship of that poet. The year following he was appointed Secretary to the d.u.c.h.ess of Monmouth: at this time he printed his "Trivia," in the composition of which he was a.s.sisted by Swift. He died of an inflammation of the bowels, in 1732, (sincerely lamented by all who knew him,) and was buried in Westminster Abbey, where his monument exhibits an epitaph by Pope, which is written with tasteful tenderness.
_Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, September 19; Friday before April 21; second Friday in December, for cattle. These are considerable fairs, but are called great markets, as there is no charter to hold fairs on those days.--_Mail_ arrives 7.0 morning; departs 5.0 afternoon.--_Bankers_, Pyke, Law and Co.; draw on Barclay and Co.; Drake and Co. draw on Esdaile and Co.--_Inns_, Fortescue Arms; Golden Lion; Kings Arms.
[Sidenote: Incorporated by Henry I.]
[Sidenote: Amus.e.m.e.nts, &c.]
[Sidenote: Eminent men educated here.]
[Sidenote: Gay, the Poet, born here.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+ 7Barnston toChesterPark Gate 4Liverpool 514Barnston paEss.e.xDunmow 2Braintree 87Barnton toChesterNorthwich 2Knutsford 828Barnwell-All-Sts.[A] paNorthampOundle 3Thrapston 5+--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.
+--+-----------------------+-------------+------+-----+-----+ 7Barnston toChester 1419811214Barnston paChelmsford 10382157Barnton toWarrington 917573028Barnwell-All-Sts.[A] paStamford 1878126+--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+
[A] BARNWELL derives its name from some wells, which in the age of superst.i.tion, were widely famed for the miraculous cures they performed in diseases of children. Sacred veneration was at length paid them, and pilgrims from distant parts resorted hither to adore the spirit which infused such wonderful virtues into the waters. A castle was erected here in the reign of Henry I., by Reginald le Moine, and became afterwards the baronial residence of the family of the Montagues. The remains of this once magnificent structure consist of four circular ma.s.sy bastion towers, each forming an angle of a quadrangular court, inclosed by walls three feet thick; the grand gateway on the south side is flanked by similar towers. The whole forms a fine and curious ruin, and is a rare specimen of the early Norman castellated form of building.
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+-----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ 28Barnwell, St. And paNorthampOundle 2Thrapston 615Barnwood paGloucesterGloucester 2Cheltenham 835Barr, Great[A] paStaffordWalsall 4Wednesbury 435Barr, Perry hamStafford5Birmingham 529Barrasford toNorthumb.Hexham 7Bellingham 106Barrington paCambridgeCambridge 6Caxton 834Barrington paSomersetIlminster 4Ilchester 104Barrington, Great[B] paBerks&GlosBurford 4Northleach 715Barrington, Little paGloucesterBurford 4Stow 810Barrow paDerbyDerby 6Kegworth 1215Barrow toGloucesterCheltenham 4Tewkesbury 529Barrow toNorthumb.Allenton 5Wooler 1632Barrow chapRutlandOakham 5Stamford 12+--+-----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.
+--+-----------------------+----------------------+------+-------+ 28Barnwell, St. And paStamford 177928415Barnwood paPainswick 610441935Barr, Great[A] paBirmingham 511477935Barr, Perry hamSutton 311477729Barrasford toCorbridge 92842326Barrington paRoyston 84648534Barrington paCrewkherne 81344684Barrington, Great[B] paStow 87653215Barrington, Little paNorthleach 77616210Barrow paBurton 1012558415Barrow toGloucester 79823829Barrow toBellingham 183141432Barrow chapCottesmore 2101144+--+-----------------------+----------------------+------+-------+