[Sidenote: King Offa buried here.]
[Sidenote: John Bunyan.]
[Sidenote: n.o.ble charity, founded by Sir William Harper.]
[Sidenote: Its revenues.]
[Sidenote: Alms-houses.]
[Sidenote: Lace-making, the chief trade.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+-----------------+--------+---------------+------------+ 29Bedlington[A] paDurhamMorpeth 4Blyth 1421Bedmanton hamKentSittingbourne 5Lenham 334Bedminster paSomersetBristol 1Dundry 335Bednall toStaffordPenkridge 3Rugeley 733Bedston paSalopKnighton 4Ludlow 1126Bedwas paMonmouthNewport 10Cardiff 93Bedwall Green hamBedfordDunstable 2Toddington 326Bedwelty paMonmouthNewport 16Pontypool 10+--+-----------------+--------+---------------+------------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.
+--+-----------------+------------------------+------------+ 29Bedlington[A] paNewcastle 12286212021Bedmanton hamMaidstone 84234Bedminster paWeston 191191313035Bednall toStafford 413433Bedston paBishops" Cas. 1015315926Bedwas paPontypool 101587563Bedwall Green hamHockliffe 53626Bedwelty paAbergavenn. 1415910637+--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+
[A] BEDLINGTON, though within the county of Northumberland, belongs to Chester ward, in the county of Durham. It lies between the rivers Wansbeck and Blythe. The monks of Durham, in their flight to Lindisfarne, before the arms of the Conqueror, with the incorruptible body of St. Cuthbert, rested all night here. The Rev. Francis Woodmas, the expositor of St. Chrysostom, was vicar here from 1696 to 1710. The Bedlington blast furnace, for smelting iron, was some years since taken down. At the Bebside and Bedlington Mills, about fifty men are employed.
An unsuccessful attempt was a few years ago made to establish a manufactory of printed cottons at Stannington bridge, in this neighbourhood.
[Sidenote: Blast furnaces.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+-------------------+---------+-------------+---------------+ 41Bedwin, Great[A] paWiltsMarlborough 7Ramsbary 541Bedwin, Little paWilts... 8... 439Bedworth paWarwickNuneaton 4Longford 223Beeby paLeicesterLeicester 6Houghton 335Beech toWarwickStafford 7Eccleshall 64Beech Hill tiBerksReading 7Aldermaston 541Beechingstoke paWiltsDevizes 5Pewsey 538Beeding, Upper paSuss.e.xSteyning 1Sh.o.r.eham 538Beeding, Lower tiSuss.e.x... 2... 54Beedon paBerksE. Ilsley 3Newbury 743Beeford pa & toE.R. YorkDriffield 7Bridlington 1010Beeley chapDerbyBakewell 3Chesterfield 1021Beelsby paLincolnCaistor 5Grimsby 74Beenham paBerksReading 8Newbury 911Beer chapDevonColyton 3Honiton 1034BeerSomersetBridgewater 4Stowey 511BeerhallDevonBridport 8Honiton 1011Beeralston[B] toDevonTavistock 6Plymouth 7+--+-------------------+---------+-------------+---------------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.
+--+-------------------+-----------------------+-----+---------+ 41Bedwin, Great[A] paHungerford 671219141Bedwin, Little pa... 57058739Bedworth paCoventry 596398023Beeby paMelton 910412035Beech toNewcastle 81414Beech Hill tiKingsclere 74624941Beechingstoke paLavington 68618738Beeding, Upper paBrighton 105158938Beeding, Lower ti... 10515334Beedon paHungerford 125730643Beeford pa & toBeverley 1319689410Beeley chapMatlock 615044121Beelsby paLouth 181641584Beenham paPangbourn 64736011Beer chapSidmouth 715334BeerWatchet 1414311BeerhallCrewkerne 1414711Beeralston[B] toSaltash 4213+--+-------------------+-----------------------+-----+---------+
[A] BEDWIN was a market-town, and supposed by Stukeley to have been the Leucomagus of the Romans; it certainly was a chief city of the Saxons, who built a castle there. It was a borough by prescription, sending two members to parliament, and is governed by a portreeve, and exercises many of its original rights, although considerably reduced in population. The church, a cruciform building of flints, with a central tower, is ancient and curious in itself, and for the monuments which it contains. The obtusely pointed arches of the nave, ornamented with zig-zag and billetted mouldings, rest on capitals, richly adorned with flowers, grotesque heads, and other figures. In the south transept are two tombs, which commemorate Adam and Roger de Stocre, Lords, according to Leland, of "Stoke Haulle thereby." The chancel contains the n.o.ble altar monument of Sir John Seymour, of Wolphall, father of the Protector, Somerset, and other distinguished persons. Near this tomb are two bra.s.s plates, on one of which is the figure of a lady, with her hands folded, and the inscription--"Julia Seymour;" the other commemorates a son of Sir John Seymour. The manor of Bedwin, which once belonged to Gilbert, Earl of Clare, husband of Anna d"Acres, was purchased by the late Earl of Aylesbury. This place gave birth, in 1621, to Dr. Thomas Willis, a learned physician, who wrote several works on his art, was appointed physician in ordinary to Charles II., and died of pleurisy in 1675. On Castle-hill is an entrenchment, in area two acres, with some foundations, supposed to be those of a castle, founded by the Saxons. Chisbury Castle is an entrenchment more than fifteen acres in extent, supposed to have been begun by the Britons, and sometime occupied by the Romans. The neighbouring village of Little Bedwin has a church built of flints, in the Anglo-Norman style of architecture, with a nave, aisles, chancel, and tower.
_Market_, formerly Tuesday (disused).--_Fairs_, April 23, and July 26, for horses, cows, and sheep.
[Sidenote: Monument of Julia Seymour, sister to Lady Jane Grey.]
[B] BEERALSTON. This place once had the privilege of sending two members to parliament. It is chiefly inhabited by labourers employed in agriculture and mining. The borough was under the influence of the Earl of Beverley. The right of election was vested in those who had land in the borough, and paid three-pence acknowledgment to the Lord of the Manor, who varied the number of electors at his pleasure, by granting burgage-tenures, which were generally resigned when the election was concluded, to as many of his partisans as were requisite. The portreeve, chosen annually in the Lord"s court, was the returning-officer. The first members were returned in the twenty-seventh of Elizabeth. Risdon mentions that Beare was bestowed by William the Conqueror on a family descended from the house of Alencon in France, and that it still continues its name under the corruption of Bere-Alson. In the reign of Henry II., Henry Ferrers had a castle here, which came to the possession of his descendant Martin Ferrers, the last of the house, in the time of Edward III. The manor then came to the Champernounes, and pa.s.sed respectively through the families of Willoughby, Mountjoy, Maynard, and Stamford, to the present possessor, the Duke of Northumberland. In this place are several lead-mines, now of inconsiderable value, though sometimes impregnated with silver; but in the reign of Edward I., it is said, that in the s.p.a.ce of three years 1,600 pounds weight of silver was obtained. Since that time no considerable quant.i.ty has ever been procured.
[Sidenote: Electioneering abuses.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles from+--+-----------------------+----------+-----------+-----------+ 34Berecrocombe paSomersetIlminster 5Taunton 711Bere Ferris[A] paDevonSaltash 3Plymouth 612Bere Hacket paDevonSherborne 4Yeovil 412Bere Regis[B] m.t. & paDorsetWareham 7Blandford 9+--+-----------------------+----------+-----------+-----------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles fromLond.Population.
+--+-----------------------+----------------------+-----+------+ 34Berecrocombe paSomerton 1213518211Bere Ferris[A] paTavistock 8215187612Bere Hacket paBeaminster 1212111012Bere Regis[B] m.t. & paDorchester 121131170+--+-----------------------+----------------------+-----+------+
[A] BERE FERRIS. This parish is situated south by west from Tavistock.
Here, observes Risdon, "lieth Ley, the ancient possession of a family so called, whence the name tooke that honor; for from hence Sir James Ley, Knt., Lord Chief Justice of England, and High Treasurer, created afterwards Earle of Marlborough, descended; a lawgiver in the chief place of justice, and a preserver of venerable antiquity, whose n.o.ble thoughts were so fixed on virtue, and his discourses embellished with wisdome, and his heart with integrity, that his words did never bite, nor his actions wrong any man, to give him just cause of complaynt."
Amongst several ancient monuments in Bere-Ferris Church, is one under an arched recess, of a cross-legged knight half inclined on his right side, with his right hand on his sword; and another of a knight and his lady, under a richly ornamented arch in the chancel. Among the figures painted on the east window is that of William Ferrers, who was probably the builder of this fabric, as he is represented kneeling, and holding the model of a church in his hand.
[Sidenote: A honest lawyer.]
[B] BERE REGIS is situated in the Blandford division of the county. Drs.
Stukeley and c.o.ker conjecture that this place was the site of a Roman station; an opinion which is confirmed by a large entrenchment upon Woodbury Hill, about half a mile north-east of the parish. The area of this place, which contains about ten acres, is surrounded by triple ramparts, that in some places are high and deep. On the summit, which commands a very extensive prospect, a fair is annually holden. This fair begins on the Nativity of the Virgin, and continues through the five following days: though of late years it has much decreased; it was once the most considerable in the west of England. Queen Elfrida, to whom the manor belonged, is said to have retired to her seat in this place, after the murder of her son-in-law, Edward the Martyr. King John also appears to have made it his residence. In the reign of Henry III. the manor was bestowed on Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester; but, as a consequence attending his rebellion, it was taken from him, and granted to the King"s brother, Edmund. Edmund gave a moiety of it to the Abbess of Tarent, who, in the reign of Edward I. claimed for her manor of Bere a fair, a market, a free-warren, and the whole forest of Bere. Her moiety of these was granted her. At the dissolution, Henry VIII., for the sum of 680. 16s. 8d. granted the manor to Robert Turberville, to whose ancestors the other moiety had belonged for ages. The mansion of the Turbervilles still remains: it is an ancient irregular structure, built with stone, and its windows contain various quarterings of the Turberville family and its alliances. Bere Regis, though it does not appear ever to have been represented in parliament, was incorporated in the time of Edward I. Its market is ancient, as appears from King John"s having confirmed it to the inhabitants. The church is a large and handsome structure, and contains numerous monuments of the Turberville and other families. The town of Bere Regis has suffered twice by fire: once in 1634, and again in 1788. After the latter fire the inhabitants found shelter in the booths erected for the fair. The most distinguished natives of the place have been James Turberville, Bishop of Exeter, and John Morton, Archbishop of Canterbury.
_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fair_, September 18.
[Sidenote: The residence of Queen Elfrida.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles from+--+-----------------------+----------+-------------+------------- 9Bees, St.[A] to & pac.u.mberlandEgremont 3Whitehaven 424Beesby paLincolnLouth 9Grimsby 924Beesby in the Marsh, paLincolnAlford 3Saltfleet 103Beeston toBedfordBiggleswade 3Tempsford 3+--+-----------------------+----------+-------------+------------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles fromLond.Population.
+--+-----------------------+------------------------+-----+-----+ 9Bees, St.[A] to & pab.u.t.termere 1329651724Beesby paM. Raisin 121589924Beesby in the Marsh, paLouth 91441323Beeston toBedford 848258+--+-----------------------+------------------------+-----+-----+
[A] BEES, (ST.) This ancient village is situated in the Ward of Allerdale, west by north from Egremont. It is understood to have derived its name and origin from a religious house, which was founded here about the year 650, by St. Bega, an Irish nun of great sanct.i.ty. On the death of Bega, a church was erected in honour of her virtues; but both these establishments having been destroyed by the Danes, William, son of Ranulph de Meschines, replaced them by a new foundation of Benedictine monks, and made it a cell to the Abbey of St. Mary at York: in the time of Henry I. The manor was granted after the dissolution to Sir Thomas Chaloner, by Edward VI. in the last year of his reign. It next became the property of a family named Wyberg, from whom, under a fore-closed mortgage, it pa.s.sed to an ancestor of the Earl of Lonsdale, about the year 1663. St. Bees church, which was erected about the time of Henry I., had the form of a cross, and great part of it is yet standing. The east-end is unroofed, and in ruins: the nave, however, is fitted up as the parish church, and the cross aisle is used as a place of sepulchre.
The ancient chancel has narrow lancet windows, ornamented with double mouldings, and pilasters, with rich capitals. At the east end are niches, of a singular form, with pointed arches, supported on well proportioned pillars, having capitals adorned with rich engravings. The whole edifice is of red free-stone. A free grammar school was founded in the village of St. Bees by Archbishop Girandal, under a charter from Queen Elizabeth, towards the close of the sixteenth century. This prelate was born in the neighbouring village of Helsingham, in the year 1519. He was educated at Cambridge, where he obtained a fellowship at Pembroke Hall. Being attached to the principles of the Reformation, Bishop Ridley made him his chaplain, and precentor of St. Pauls. He was also appointed chaplain to the King, and prebendary of Westminster; but on the accession of Mary he retired to Germany, and settled at Strasburgh. When Elizabeth ascended the throne he returned home, and was employed in revising the Litany. In 1559 he was chosen master of Pembroke Hall, and the same year preferred to the see of London, from whence, in 1570 he was translated to York, and in 1575 to Canterbury.
Two years afterwards he was suspended from his archiepiscopal functions, for refusing to obey the Queen"s order to suppress prophecyings, or the a.s.sociations of the clergy to expound the Scriptures. His sequestration was taken off, though he never completely recovered the royal favour. He died at Croydon, 1583. He contributed to Fox"s acts and monuments. James I. afterwards increased the endowments, which have been since augmented by divers benefactors. Several scholars of great eminence have received the rudiments of education in this seminary. It is remarkable, however, that, till a few years ago, the school had not undergone any material change since its foundation. Occasional repairs were indeed found absolutely necessary for the support of the buildings, but no improvement seems ever to have been attempted. Through the munificence of the Earl of Lonsdale this long respected seminary has been put into complete order, and made more suitable to the purpose intended by the pious founder than it had been at any time since its erection. Exclusive of what has been done at the s.p.a.cious school-room, the library is rendered more commodious. The master"s house, which adjoins the school, has been enlarged, some parts of it rebuilt, a good garden well walled round, and the whole made a very comfortable and eligible residence.
[Sidenote: Early history.]
[Sidenote: Archbishop Girandal.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles from +--+----------------------+----------+-------------+------------- 7Beeston[A] toChesterNantwich 7Tarporley 227Beeston paNorfolkSwaffham 7E. Dereham 630Beeston paNottinghamNottingham 4Chilwell 145Beeston chapW.R. YorkLeeds 2Birstall 527Beeston, St. Andrew pNorfolkNorwich 4Worstead 927Beeston, St. Lawren. pNorfolkColtishall 4... 327Beeston Regis paNorfolkCromer 4Holt 740Beethom[B] pa & toWestmorlndBurton 4Millthorpe 127Beetley paNorfolkE. Dereham 4Foulsham 631Begbrook paOxfordWoodstock 3Oxford 634Beggerielge hamSomersetBath 4Frome 9+--+----------------------+----------+-------------+------------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles fromLond.Population.
+--+----------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ 7Beeston[A] toWhitchurch 1417143427Beeston paCastle Acre 510070230Beeston paAshby 16124253045Beeston chapHuddersfield 9190212827Beeston, St. Andrew pAcle 91134927Beeston, St. Lawren. pNorwich 111205227Beeston Regis paCley 812624640Beethom[B] pa & toKendal 10252163927Beetley paFakenham 910438131Begbrook paIslip 56010234Beggerielge hamBeckington 6110...+--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+
[A] BEESTON. Near this village are the remains of a castle, once deemed impregnable; it is situated on a sandstone rock, 366 feet in perpendicular height. So strong was this fortress considered, that it became a proverb in the neighbourhood to say, "It is as strong as Beeston Castle." The area contains five acres, and was rendered unapproachable by means of a very wide ditch. In the reign of Charles I.
it underwent a lengthened siege, or rather blockade, for all communications were cut off with the neighbourhood for a long term; at last it was compelled to surrender, and the parliament ordered it to be dismantled. During the period of the threatened invasion of the French, in 1803, this castle was fixed upon by the lieutenancy of the county, as the site for a signal station and beacon. The ancient and craggy walls are beautifully mantled over with a luxuriant covering of ivy, and the base of the hill abounds with several varieties of rare plants. The well of the castle is nearly 300 feet deep, and the peasantry firmly believe that it contains a vast store of riches, which have been thrown into it during the civil wars. A mineral spring was discovered here a few years ago. The inhabitants of Chester consider it a favourite holiday indulgence to visit this castle in a pleasure excursion; and by application to an old woman in the village, who may be considered the female warden of the place, travellers can be conducted to the summit of the building. The views from the ramparts are beautiful, extending over the whole Vale Royal of Cheshire, to the estuaries of the rivers Mersey and Dee: that side of the hill which forms a precipice rises perpendicularly 160 feet from the base of the elevation, and upon looking down from the high pinnacle of the castle wall, it is sufficient to call to remembrance the sublime poetic effusion of our immortal bard:--
"How fearful And dizzy "tis, to cast ones eyes so low, The crows and choughs, that wing the mid-way air, Shew scarce as gross as beetles.
I"ll look no more, Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight, Topple down headlong."
[Sidenote: Castle on a rock.]
[Sidenote: A favourite place of resort.]
[B] BEETHOM. This mountainous and highly interesting parish is situated in the Kendal Ward, at the south-western extremity of the county of Westmoreland, on both sides of estuaries of the river Kent, which is navigable for small craft as far as the hamlet of Storch, and comprises the chapelries of Witherslack, and the townships of Beetham, Farleton, Haverbrack, and Methop, with Ulpha. The parish church is dedicated to St. Michael, the patron saint of mountainous and hilly parishes: it is a neat building, situated in a fine vale, or holm ground, commanding the richest variety of wood, water, and rocky scenery. Here are two fine old monuments to the memory of Thomas de Beetham and his lady, who lived in the reign of Richard III. Here was anciently a chapel, dedicated to St.
John, and near it, in a garden, a considerable number of human bones were dug up; it was situated about forty yards from the present school-house. Some few years since a mole cast up an amber bead, and with it an oval piece of silver, about the size of a shilling; it was perforated through the middle, and on one side was an impression of the crucifixion, with the letters J.N.R.J.; on the right of which was a crescent, and on the left a rising sun; at the bottom, the Virgin Mary, in a weeping att.i.tude: on the reverse, a lamb, with a standard, and St.
Andrews" cross. The parsonage, or rectory-house, which stood on the north-east corner of the churchyard, was formerly called the college of St. Mary"s. The Hilton family had also a handsome house near this spot, which was enlarged and improved by George Hilton, an eccentric squire, and well known character in this neighbourhood about the commencement of the last century. This George Hilton was a Roman Catholic, and joined the Scotch rebels in 1715, upon whose defeat he made his escape, but was pardoned by the act of grace the year following, and afterwards retired to a house which he built at the south end of Beethom Park. Mr. Hutton, the historian of this place, says, "that he discovered a diary, in an old chest, which was kept by this gentleman, taken by himself every night, but which was afterwards lost. "On Sunday, (says he in one place,) I vowed to abstain from three things during the ensuing week (Lent), viz. women, eating of flesh, and drinking of wine; but, alas!
the frailty of good resolutions. I broke them all! Conversed with a woman--was tempted to eat the wing of a fowl--and got drunk at Milnthorp."" Of this parish the Rev. William Hutton was vicar, who wrote a folio book of collections for its history, which he deposited in the vestry for the information of posterity, with blank pages to be filled up as materials should occur. He was an amiable man, and an indefatigable antiquarian. The old manor house, called the Hall of Beethom, was a fine old castellated mansion, but now unfortunately in ruins. One large apartment in this castle is still called the hall, and according to the laudable practice of ancient hospitality, was devoted to the purpose of entertaining the friends and dependants of the family: and hence came the proverb--
""Tis merry in the hall When beards wag all."
The remains of a room, formerly used as a chapel, still exist; and the ruins of this fine mansion are of considerable extent. The ruins of another hall in this parish are also to be seen in Cappleside Demesne, consisting of a front and two wings, comprising an extent of 117 feet of frontage. Also an ancient tower, now in ruins, called Helslack Tower: and another tower, called Arnside Tower; equally neglected. These towers seem to have been intended to guard the Bay of Morecambe, as similar buildings are erected on the opposite side of the river. A grammar school was founded here in 1663, and rebuilt in 1827. It has an endowment of about 40. a year, arising out of lands bequeathed for the instruction of fifty poor boys.
[Sidenote: George Hilton, an eccentric character.]
[Sidenote: The Hall.]
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+----------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ 57Begelley paPembrokeNarbeth 4Tenby 458Beggars" BushRadnorKnighton 8Presteign 231Beggars" BushOxfordNettlebed 4Benson 258Beguildy paRadnorKnighton 6New Radnor 1221BeighamKent pLamberhurst 3Tunb. Wells 310Beighton paDerbyChesterfield 10Sheffield 727Beighton paNorfolkAcle 2Loddon 636Beighton paSuffolkBury 6Woolpit 246Beilby to & chapE.R. YorkPocklington 4M. Weighton 627Belaugh paNorfolkNorwich 8Worstead 59Belbank toc.u.mberlandBrampton 10Carlisle 15+--+----------------+----------+---------------+-------------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.
+--+----------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ 57Begelley paPembroke 1425799658Beggars" BushNew Radnor 615331Beggars" BushWallingford 34458Beguildy paBettws 4171104321BeighamBrenchley 53810Beighton paEckington 215598027Beighton paNorwich 911826236Beighton paStow Market 87123846Beilby to & chapYork 1319223927Belaugh paColtishall 21161519Belbank toLongtown 13321485+--+----------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+
MapNames of Places.County.Number of Miles From+--+----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ 9Belbank toc.u.mberlandBrampton 7Carlisle 1242Belbroughton paWorcesterBromsgrove 5Stourbridge 546Belby toE.R. YorkHowden 1South Cave 1112Belchalwell paDorsetBlandford 7Sturminster 314Belchamp Oten paEss.e.xHeadingham 5Sudbury 514Belchamp, St. Pauls pEss.e.x... 6... 614Belchamp Wallers[A] paEss.e.x... 6... 324Belchford paLincolnHorncastle 5Louth 829Belford[B] m.t. & paNorthumb.Newcastle 49Alnwick 530Belgh hamNottinghamWorksop 5Ollerton 623Belgrave paLeicesterLeicester 2Loughboro" 929Bellasis toNorthumb.Morpeth 5Newcastle 1046Bellasize toE.R. YorkHowden 5South Cave 718Bell BarHertsBarnet 6Hatfield 324Belleau[C] paLincolnAlford 3Louth 8+--+----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+Dist.MapNames of Places.Number of Miles FromLond.Population.