What"s the Deal With Processing Jam?
You may have noticed that many older preserving books don"t call for processing jam in a water bath, but just for filling the hot jars with hot jam and then cooling until the jars seal. To be honest, I don"t always process my jams, and have never had any trouble. Since the USDA now recommends it as an extra measure of sterilization, I give processing instructions in the jam recipes here. Please note that I would never take this risk with anything but jam, due to its high sugar and acid content. I always refrigerate any jars that fail to seal, whether they were processed or not, and I always refrigerate after opening.
Pulled Pork Canapes with Fig-Rosemary Jam [image]
Here"s an elegant way to repurpose your leftover Mustard and Bourbon-Glazed Pork Roast and it is a fun thing to try with your Fig-Rosemary Jam. Of course, you can use any leftover pork or any other jam you have on hand to make this rather impressive and inexpensive c.o.c.ktail hors d"oeuvre.
TIME REQUIRED: 10 to 15 minutes active (excluding bread, pork, and jam preparation) 10 to 15 minutes active (excluding bread, pork, and jam preparation) YIELD: 18 to 20 pieces 18 to 20 pieces About[image] baguette, or 5 or 6 slices baguette, or 5 or 6 slices Half-Wheat Sourdough Bread Half-Wheat Sourdough Bread or or Sourdough Cornmeal-Pumpkin Seed Bread Sourdough Cornmeal-Pumpkin Seed BreadAbout cup olive oil1 cup shredded leftover Mustard and Bourbon-Glazed Pork Roast Mustard and Bourbon-Glazed Pork RoastAbout 3 ounces soft, creamy blue cheese, such as Maytag or a locally produced version, at room temperature4 ounces Fig-Rosemary Jam Fig-Rosemary Jam or jam of your choice or jam of your choice Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Cut the baguette into -inch slices or cut each slice of homemade bread with a 1-inch biscuit cutter, to make perfect rounds. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet in a single layer. Brush with oil. Bake until browned and slightly crisp, about 7 minutes. Let cool slightly.
Put the pork in a small skillet over medium heat. Add a little bit of leftover Mustard and Bourbon Glaze, if available. If not, add a little oil. Toss the pork around in the hot skillet to heat and crisp it slightly. Set aside.
Spread each toasted bread piece with blue cheese. Top with a few shreds of hot, crispy pork, distributing it evenly. Top each canape with about teaspoon of jam. Serve immediately.
Persimmon-Spice b.u.t.ter I like to serve this spiced b.u.t.ter on wheat or rye toast topped with thin slices of Gruyere. Fuyu persimmons are more widely available than the bitter-until-squishy-ripe Hachiyas. This recipe makes a great gift, so you may want to increase the recipe and process it to make it shelf stable. (Follow the chart in a recently published canning book [see Sources Sources]).
TIME REQUIRED: about 2 hours active about 2 hours active YIELD: about 1 cups about 1 cups 2 pounds Fuyu persimmons, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks vanilla bean[image] cup sugar cup sugar2 tablespoons maple syrupSeeds from 1 green cardamom pod, crushed or ground finelyOne 2- to 3-inch-long cinnamon stick2 tablespoons white rumZest of 1 lime (about teaspoon) In a food processor, puree the persimmons until smooth. You will have about 3 cups of pulp. For a smoother texture, put the pulp through a potato ricer or food mill. If you don"t own one of these implements, don"t worry, as the pulp will break down as it cooks.
Put the persimmon pulp in a large, wide, heavy-bottomed pot. Enameled cast iron works well. The wider the pot, the shorter the cooking time. Also, the taller the better, as the pulp will splatter.
Slice the vanilla bean up one side lengthwise, open it up, and sc.r.a.pe the tiny seeds into the pot with the pulp. Add the vanilla bean hull to the pot. Add the sugar, maple syrup, cardamom, and cinnamon. Set the pot over medium-low heat and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Adjust the heat so the pulp is just barely bubbling and cook, stirring occasionally and checking often to avoid burning and sticking until the pulp thickens and begins to turn dark, about 1 hour.
Add the rum and cook for another 10 minutes. Add the lime zest and turn off the heat. Let cool, remove the cinnamon stick, transfer to a jar, and refrigerate. The b.u.t.ter will keep for up to 2 weeks.
Apple Galette with Persimmon-Spice b.u.t.ter Tart apples and sweet Persimmon-Spice b.u.t.ter make a very nice pairing when tucked into a flaky crust. Choose apples with a nice balance of sweet and tart that hold their shape when baked. I usually ask the vendor I"m buying from which ones he or she prefers for baking and then I taste them to see if the flavor seems right. This is the kind of uncomplicated dessert anyone can make. If you"re intimidated by piecrust, don"t worry. The cornmeal makes a st.u.r.dy, easy-to-handle dough. The true secret to flaky, tender crust is to keep the ingredients as cold as possible, work quickly, and don"t overmix the dough. Stop when the liquid and the dry ingredients just barely come together.
TIME REQUIRED: 20 minuted active; 2 hours pa.s.sive (excluding persimmon b.u.t.ter preparation) 20 minuted active; 2 hours pa.s.sive (excluding persimmon b.u.t.ter preparation) YIELD: makes one 12-inch galette makes one 12-inch galette 3 tablespoons Yogurt Yogurt[image] cup cold water cup cold water1 cup all-purpose flour cup cornmeal1 teaspoon sugar, plus about1 tablespoon for sprinkling on top teaspoon salt7 tablespoons chilled b.u.t.ter (or a mixture of b.u.t.ter and lard divided fairly evenly), cut into small pieces, plus additional b.u.t.ter (melted) for brushing on topAbout cup Persimmon-Spice b.u.t.ter3 large or 4 medium apples, peeled or unpeeled, sliced thinly In a small cup, stir together the yogurt and the cold water and place it in the freezer while you mix the other ingredients.
In a large mixing bowl, with a whisk, combine the flour, cornmeal, the 1 teaspoon sugar, and the salt. Add the chilled b.u.t.ter and work it in quickly with a pastry blender, leaving some pieces of fat the size of small peas.
Sprinkle the yogurt mixture over the flour mixture gradually, mixing it in with a fork. Be careful not to overmix. The dough should be crumbly, but stick together when pinched. You may not use all of the yogurt mixture.
Gather the dough into a ball, wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
On a lightly floured board, with a rolling pin, roll out the dough to a -inch thickness. Fold the dough carefully into quarters, pick it up gently and transfer to a baking sheet. Unfold the dough so it sits centered on the baking sheet.
Using a rubber spatula, gently spread the persimmon b.u.t.ter thinly and evenly over the dough, leaving a 1- to 2-inch border along the edges.
Lay the apple slices on top of the persimmon b.u.t.ter, working in a spiral from the inside out, covering the persimmon b.u.t.ter, but leaving the same 1- to 2-inch border. Fold the edges of the dough inward to encase the fruit, and sprinkle the entire galette with the 1 tablespoon sugar.
Bake on the center rack of the oven until the crust is brown and flaky and the apples soft and fragrant, 20 to 25 minutes. Halfway through, rotate the pan and brush the apples and the crust with the melted b.u.t.ter. Give the galette a final brush of b.u.t.ter when you remove it from the oven.
Let cool slightly before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store any leftovers at room temperature, covered, for no more than 24 hours.
Food Processor Nut b.u.t.ters It"s easy to make your own nut b.u.t.ters in an ordinary food processor, and they provide several advantages over store-bought nut b.u.t.ters. You control the smoothness to your liking; you can choose to make raw or roasted b.u.t.ters; and you"ll never again worry about sodium, trans fats, sugar, or other additives. I"ve found homemade nut b.u.t.ters to be half the price (or less) of commercial ones. Since no stabilizers or preservatives are used in homemade nut b.u.t.ters, I like to make small batches of just a cup or two. Keep your homemade nut b.u.t.ters in the refrigerator, as they are highly perishable. If you like your b.u.t.ters ultrasmooth, you need not add any oil to them at all, just salt to taste. Continuous grinding will bring out the oils in the nuts, making the b.u.t.ters perfectly spreadable at room temperature. If you like them chunky, stop while the b.u.t.ter still has texture and add one to two tablespoons of vegetable oil (peanut oil works nicely) to make the b.u.t.ter spreadable.
Raw Almond b.u.t.ter Great on toast or a crisp fall apple, this b.u.t.ter also makes wonderful cookies. Try Almond b.u.t.ter Sandwich Cookies with Spiced Pear Filling Almond b.u.t.ter Sandwich Cookies with Spiced Pear Filling. You could also toast the nuts in a 350-degree-F oven for 10 minutes if you prefer a roasted almond b.u.t.ter. Let cool before grinding.
TIME REQUIRED: about 15 minutes active about 15 minutes active YIELD: 1 cup 1 cup 2 cups (about 10 ounces) unsalted, raw whole almonds1 to 2 teaspoons vegetable oil (optional)Salt (optional) Put the almonds in the bowl of a food processor and process until the b.u.t.ter is the desired consistency, stopping occasionally to sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the oil (if needed) and season with salt (if necessary). Watch the b.u.t.ter closely. Over time, it will progress from chunks of chopped almonds to small, dry pieces of almond to a cohesive ball of creamy, spreadable softness. Transfer to a jar and seal. The b.u.t.ter will keep, refrigerated, for up to 8 weeks.
Almond b.u.t.ter Sandwich Cookies with Spiced Pear Filling [image]
Here you have almonds and pears, a cla.s.sic dessert flavor combination repurposed into a cookie. Fragrant mashed pears are gently infused with sweet spices and sandwiched between thin, nutty, crispy-chewy cookies to make this common dessert combo into something both homey and elegant. On its own, this pear filling makes a wonderful companion to ice cream or a filling for the Fresh Cheese Crepes Fresh Cheese Crepes. I like to bake these in the fall when pears are at their best. Off-season, you can experiment with other fillings (jam, chocolate, or applesauce) or simply make almond b.u.t.ter drop cookies-like peanut b.u.t.ter cookies, only more interesting. The dough is a little crumbly and a bit difficult to roll out, but if you work with your fingertips to keep it together as you roll, it won"t be too laborious. You"ll need a spatula to transfer the cut cookies from the rolling board to the cookie sheet.
TIME REQUIRED: about 1 hours active; about 1 hours pa.s.sive (excluding b.u.t.ters preparation) about 1 hours active; about 1 hours pa.s.sive (excluding b.u.t.ters preparation) YIELD: 24 sandwich cookies 24 sandwich cookies COOKIES[image] cup unsalted cup unsalted Cultured b.u.t.ter Cultured b.u.t.ter) or store-bought unsalted b.u.t.ter, softened[image] cup cup Raw Almond b.u.t.ter Raw Almond b.u.t.ter cup granulated sugar, plus extra for sprinkling cup lightly packed light brown sugar1 large egg1 tablespoon unsulfured mola.s.ses1 teaspoon vanilla extract1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon baking soda teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon baking powderSPICED PEAR FILLING (MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP)3 d"Anjou or Bartlett pears, peeled, quartered, cored, and sliced thinly[image] cup granulated sugar cup granulated sugarOne 2-inch cinnamon stick4 whole cloves4 whole green cardamom pods1 star anise pod vanilla bean, split down the side To make the cookies: In a large bowl, using a handheld mixer, beat together the cultured b.u.t.ter and almond b.u.t.ter until well combined and creamy. Add the cup granulated sugar and the brown sugar and continue to mix until fluffy. Add the egg, mola.s.ses, and vanilla and beat just until combined.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, and baking powder.
Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and stir to blend. If the dough seems crumbly, add 2 to 3 tablespoons of water a little at a time to bring it together. Form the dough into two equal-sized disks; wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or overnight.
To make the filling: In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat, combine the pears, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, star anise, vanilla bean, and 2 tablespoons water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture begins to brown and turns syrupy, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat, remove the spices, and mash the pears with a potato masher until they resemble chunky applesauce. Return the pan to the stove and continue to cook over medium-low heat until the mixture is soft and fairly smooth, with a thick texture, another 20 to 30 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
If you"ve refrigerated the dough for several hours or overnight, remove from the refrigerator 15 minutes prior to rolling. Leaving one portion of the dough refrigerated, roll out the other portion on a lightly floured board to inch thick. You may need to stop and gently push the edges of the dough toward the center with your fingertips. You will find the dough somewhat crumbly, rather than sticky. Using a 2-inch round biscuit or cookie cutter, cut out the cookies. Using a spatula, transfer them to an ungreased baking sheet as you work. Gather up the sc.r.a.ps and reroll. The third round of sc.r.a.ps will probably need to be refrigerated before rerolling. Repeat with the other portion of dough, baking the cookies in batches. Sprinkle half the cookies with a bit of granulated sugar just before baking. The sugared cookies will be the tops of the sandwiches. Bake the cookies until brown and fragrant, rotating the pans halfway through, 6 to 7 minutes. Let cool completely on the sheet, then transfer to a platter.
When all the cookies are baked and cooled, a.s.semble the sandwiches by placing 2 teaspoons of pear filling atop the unsugared cookies. Top each with a sugared cookie and serve. You can also make the cookies and pear filling up to 1 day in advance and a.s.semble just before serving. Unfilled cookies can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container for 3 to 4 days. Filled cookies should be kept covered and eaten the day they are made, or frozen for up to 2 weeks.
Roasted Peanut b.u.t.ter Create a mind-blowing peanut b.u.t.ter and jelly sandwich with the Plum-Verbena Jam Plum-Verbena Jam and the and the Sourdough Cornmeal-Pumpkin Seed Bread Sourdough Cornmeal-Pumpkin Seed Bread. Or make a Spicy Southeast Asian Peanut Sauce with it.
TIME REQUIRED: about 30 minutes active about 30 minutes active YIELD: 1 cup 1 cup 2 cups (about 10 ounces) unsalted, raw sh.e.l.led peanuts1 to 2 tablespoons vegetable oil (optional)Salt (optional) Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Spread the peanuts on a baking sheet in a single layer. Toast until light brown and fragrant, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely.
Transfer the peanuts to the bowl of a food processor and process until the b.u.t.ter is the desired consistency, stopping occasionally to sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the oil (if needed) and season with salt (if necessary). Watch the b.u.t.ter closely. Over time, it will progress from barely chopped peanuts to tiny, dry pieces of peanut to a cohesive ball of creamy, spreadable softness. Transfer to a jar and seal. The b.u.t.ter will keep, refrigerated, for up to 6 weeks.
Spicy Southeast Asian Peanut Sauce Make this with your homemade Roasted Peanut b.u.t.ter or any other peanut b.u.t.ter. It"s good to have on hand to turn simple food into exciting quick meals. Wrap leftover meat and vegetables in lettuce and use this as a dipping sauce. Toss rice noodles in it or drizzle it over steamed vegetables. I like to serve this sauce with baked or grilled chicken dunked in a quick marinade of pounded garlic, fish sauce, lime juice, water, and lots of black pepper.
TIME REQUIRED: about 10 minutes active (excluding peanut b.u.t.ter preparation) about 10 minutes active (excluding peanut b.u.t.ter preparation) YIELD: 1 cup 1 cup 1 or 2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced1 garlic clove, peeled and left wholeSalt cup Roasted Peanut b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice (about 1 lime)1 tablespoon fish sauce1 tablespoon vegetable oil (peanut oil is a good choice)2 teaspoons sugar Cayenne pepper (optional) cup chopped unsalted peanuts With a mortar and pestle, pound the chile(s) and garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt. Transfer to a small bowl. Add the peanut b.u.t.ter, lime juice, fish sauce, oil, sugar, and cayenne to taste. Whisk until smooth. Check for a sweet, salty, spicy balance. Adjust seasonings by adding more lime juice, sugar, or cayenne as desired. Stir in the peanuts and add about[image] cup water to reach the desired consistency. The sauce will keep, refrigerated, for about 2 weeks. cup water to reach the desired consistency. The sauce will keep, refrigerated, for about 2 weeks.
All-Purpose Red Chili Sauce This sauce is a great staple to have around. It"s so easy to make and is a huge improvement over canned or jarred enchilada sauces. I use it in the Pinto Bean and Sweet Potato Enchiladas Pinto Bean and Sweet Potato Enchiladas, but there are plenty of other ways to make it work for you in the kitchen. Add it to Mexican-inspired soup broths, pots of beans, egg dishes, or Chilaquiles Chilaquiles, or make up a tamale pie with cornmeal dough and leftover Mustard and Bourbon-Glazed Pork Roast Mustard and Bourbon-Glazed Pork Roast, using this as the sauce. It freezes well, too.
TIME REQUIRED: about 30 minutes active about 30 minutes active YIELD: about 2 cups about 2 cups 5 or 6 dried ancho and/or New Mexico chiles2 tablespoons vegetable oil yellow onion, diced3 garlic cloves, finely choppedSalt teaspoon dried Mexican oregano, crumbled With scissors, slit the chiles up the sides and remove the stems and seeds.
Bring a kettle of water to a boil. Heat a medium cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Open the chiles up flat and lay them down in the skillet in a single layer. You may need to work in batches. Toast them for about 30 seconds per side, holding them flat and turning with tongs, until fragrant. Don"t let them smoke or they"ll turn bitter. Transfer the chiles to a small bowl and pour the boiling water over them. Push down to submerge them. Soak until soft, at least 15 minutes.
In the same skillet, warm the oil over medium heat and add the onion, garlic, 2 pinches of salt, and the oregano. Cook, stirring, until soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave undisturbed.
When the chiles are soft, transfer them to a blender and add the sauteed onion and garlic. Blend until smooth. Wipe the skillet to remove any onion or garlic pieces and pour the sauce from the blender into the skillet. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until thick and smooth, 10 to 15 minutes. This will help tame the natural bitterness of the chiles and blend the flavors. Season with salt. Use immediately, or let the sauce cool. Transfer to a nonplastic container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 7 days, or freeze for up to 1 month.
Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa If I had to live out life on a desert island and could take only one food item, avocado would be it. I love the smooth creaminess it lends to this salsa. Tuck this into the Zucchini and Mushroom Quesadillas Zucchini and Mushroom Quesadillas or use it to make or use it to make Chilaquiles Chilaquiles. It"s also wonderful as a sauce on grilled chicken or beef.
TIME REQUIRED: about 30 minutes active about 30 minutes active YIELD: makes about 2 cups makes about 2 cups 1 pound fresh tomatillos teaspoon c.u.min seeds medium red onion, cut into -inch slices2 or 3 serrano chiles, left whole3 garlic cloves, unpeeled and left whole1 medium avocado3 green onions, chopped (green and white parts)3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro Juice of 1 lime (about 1 tablespoon)SaltFreshly ground black pepper Bring a pot of water to a boil, peel the papery husks from the tomatillos, rinse, and drop the fruits into the pot. Boil until they are soft and turn dull green, about 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.
While waiting for the water to boil, toast the c.u.min seeds over medium heat in a dry skillet until brown and fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the pan, let cool, and finely grind them in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.
In a medium, dry skillet over medium heat, toast the red onion, chiles, and garlic, turning occasionally, until browned, fragrant, and soft, about 10 minutes. Remove them to a plate as they finish cooking.
When the garlic is cool enough to handle, peel it. Remove the stems from the chiles and some, none, or all of the seeds, depending on how hot you want your salsa.
Transfer the tomatillos, garlic, chiles, toasted onion, c.u.min, and the flesh of the avocado to a blender or food processor. Process until smooth, pour into a serving bowl, and stir in the green onions, cilantro, and lime juice and season with salt and pepper. You can make this salsa several hours or up to 1 day ahead. Extra salsa will keep for 3 or 4 days, covered well and refrigerated, but will discolor slightly.
Simple Tomato Salsa [image]
Here"s a simple, smooth, all-purpose salsa that is great for both cooking and dipping chips into. Enjoy this with Zucchini and Mushroom Quesadillas Zucchini and Mushroom Quesadillas or use it to make or use it to make Chilaquiles Chilaquiles. It"s easy to adjust the heat to your liking by adding additional dried chiles or more or less cayenne. The cla.s.sic Mexican technique of roasting the salsa ingredients in a hot, dry pan gives this salsa its authentic, smoky flavor. A well-seasoned cast-iron pan is best for this job, unless you happen to own a traditional Mexican clay comal.
TIME REQUIRED: about 40 minutes active about 40 minutes active YIELD: about 2 cups about 2 cups 1 dried New Mexico or ancho chile teaspoon ground c.u.min seeds yellow or white onion, cut into -inch slices3 garlic cloves, unpeeled and left whole1 pound fresh whole Roma tomatoes1 small handful fresh cilantro leaves1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice, or more to tasteSaltFreshly ground black pepper Cayenne pepper (optional) Using scissors, slit the chile up the side and remove the stem and seeds.
Bring a small pan of water to a boil. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over mediumhigh heat. Open the chile up flat and lay it down in the skillet. Toast it about 30 seconds per side until fragrant, turning with tongs. Don"t let it smoke, or it will turn bitter. Transfer the chile to a small bowl and pour the boiling water over it. Soak until soft, at least 15 minutes.
In the same skillet, dry-toast the c.u.min seeds over medium heat until brown and fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the pan, let cool, and finely grind in a spice grinder or using a mortar and pestle.
In the same dry skillet, over medium-high heat, toast the onion and garlic until soft and brown, turning occasionally with tongs, about 10 minutes. Remove each one to a plate as it finishes cooking. Peel the garlic when it is cool enough to handle.
Put half of the tomatoes in the skillet and roast, turning often with tongs, until charred on the outside and beginning to soften, about 10 minutes. While they roast, peel the remaining tomatoes with a sharp knife and set them aside.
When all of the vegetables are roasted, and the soaked chile is pliable, remove the chile from the water, reserving the water to thin the salsa if needed. Put the chile, onion, garlic, and both the roasted and fresh tomatoes in a blender or food processor. Add the cilantro, c.u.min, and 1 tablespoon lime juice. Blend until smooth. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne (if using), and more lime juice to taste. Add the chile-soaking liquid if you desire a thinner salsa. Refrigerate, well covered, for up to 10 days.
Ajvar Ajvar is a wonderfully versatile eggplant spread for sandwiches and impromptu appetizers, and a handy cooking ingredient. It"s often found in specialty stores and I have always loved it. For years I a.s.sumed it was Middle Eastern, but I recently found out it"s Serbian. Since I"m Serbian on my mother"s side, and many of the recipes in this book originated in the house where she grew up, I love ajvar even more. Still, its unmistakable Middle Eastern character has me convinced that it came to the Balkans with the Turks. I don"t remember eating this as a child, so I"m happy to bring it back into the fold. See the tips for using ajvar ajvar.
TIME REQUIRED: 30 minutes active; 30 minutes pa.s.sive 30 minutes active; 30 minutes pa.s.sive YIELD: about 2 cups about 2 cups 1 globe eggplant, about 1 pound2 red bell peppers2 garlic cloves, peeledSalt2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice teaspoon ground Aleppo pepper see headnote headnote or paprika or paprika cup extra-virgin olive oilFreshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Wash the eggplant and poke it with the tines of a fork in several places. If you have a gas burner, lay it right on top of the grate, turn the burner to high, and roast until blackened all over, turning often with tongs, about 15 minutes. Alternatively, you can do this step under the broiler in your oven, but it won"t yield quite the same charred character. Transfer the eggplant to a parchment-lined baking sheet.
Roast the bell peppers the same way and transfer them to the sheet as well.
Put the charred peppers and eggplant in the oven and roast until completely soft, about 10 minutes for the peppers and 20 to 30 minutes for the eggplant. Remove the peppers to a bowl, and cover with a plate so they can steam. Leave the eggplant in the oven until it is very soft all the way to the center. Test it with a fork to be sure.
Once the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them, and remove the seeds and stems. Transfer the flesh to a food processor. In a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic with a pinch of salt until you have a smooth paste. Add it to the food processor with the peppers and pulse until chunky smooth.
When the eggplant is cool enough to handle, sc.r.a.pe the flesh from the skin and remove as many of the seeds as it is easy to do, without worrying too much about removing all of them. Transfer the eggplant to the processor with the roasted peppers and garlic. Add the lemon juice and Aleppo pepper and pulse a few times. Add the oil slowly while pulsing. Season with salt and black pepper. Serve immediately or refrigerate, well covered, for up to 10 days.
Chapter Two.
Salads, Dressings, Basic Appetizers, and Meals Soy-Ginger DressingSoba Noodles with Canned Wild Salmon and Soy-Ginger DressingCreamy Herb DressingPotato, Green Bean, and Radish Salad with Creamy Herb DressingBasic Best-Ever VinaigretteCannellini Bean Salad with Tomato-Garlic VinaigretteBean Cooking Method That Yields Maximum FlavorSimple Sesame Tahini DressingWheat Berry Salad with Roasted Beets, Kale, Toasted Walnuts, and Simple Sesame Tahini DressingThe Great Salad Toss-Up Guide IF CHAPTER ONE IS THE FOUNDATION of your homemade kitchen, Chapter Two serves as the bricks you"ll use to build it. We"ll explore the numerous ways to combine the items in this book to make simple and quick meals from what you have on hand. Learn four basic salad dressings and what kinds of salads they complement best. Look for tips on varying the dressings for different dishes, or turning them into marinades or sauces that move effortlessly from the snack table to the dinner table.
The Great Salad Toss-Up Guide is a fun, mix-and-match method for choosing the proper main ingredients, dressings, seasonal vegetables, and embellishments to create stellar salads that are both healthful and satisfying.
Soy-Ginger Dressing Try this dressing on everything from green salads to Soba Noodles with Canned Wild Salmon to brown rice salad to grilled fish. I like to keep it around to drizzle over steamed vegetables for a super-quick lunch.
TIME REQUIRED: 10 minutes active 10 minutes active YIELD: about about[image] cup cup 6 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar2 tablespoons finely chopped peeled fresh ginger1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons soy sauce2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil cup vegetable oil (such as peanut or sunflower) In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, ginger, soy sauce, garlic, and sesame oil. Pour in the vegetable oil gradually while whisking continuously, until the dressing comes together. Transfer to a jar and cover. The dressing will keep, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.
Soba Noodles with Canned Wild Salmon and Soy-Ginger Dressing Need a balanced dinner in less than twenty minutes? Here"s a streamlined salad that makes a great pantry meal when you"re feeling rushed. I always keep a few cans of wild Alaskan salmon in the cupboard for just such occasions. It"s an affordable, sustainable seafood choice. Nori is the dried seaweed used in sushi rolls. It"s readily available in many grocery stores and keeps well in the pantry. It has a savory flavor that adds a lot of character to a simple dish like this. The vegetable component can be varied according to the season and your inclination.
TIME REQUIRED: 20 minutes or less active (excluding dressing preparation) 20 minutes or less active (excluding dressing preparation) YIELD: 2 light-meal servings 2 light-meal servings 6 ounces dry soba noodles8 asparagus spears, or 1 head baby bok choy1 sheet nori seaweedOne 7.5-ounce can wild salmon, skin and bones removed, flaked[image] cup Soy-Ginger Dressing cup Soy-Ginger Dressing1 green onion, sliced on the diagonal (green and white parts)2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds In a medium saucepan, bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until tender, according to package instructions.
Meanwhile, if using asparagus, hold one end of each asparagus spear in either hand and snap each spear at its natural breaking point, discarding the tough bottom section of each spear. Cut the remaining parts of the spears into 1-inch pieces. If using bok choy, separate the leaves from the core and wash and slice the leaves into ribbons.
During the last 2 minutes of the noodle cooking time, add the asparagus or bok choy directly to the boiling water and cook along with the noodles. Drain the noodles and vegetables, rinse quickly with cool water, and set aside to drain well in the colander.
Turn one burner of a gas or electric stove to medium. Using tongs, hold the nori sheet over the burner and toast it until crisp and fragrant, moving frequently to avoid burning, about 2 seconds per section on both sides. Do not let it smoke. Set aside.
Transfer the cooled and drained noodles and vegetables to a bowl (pat dry if they still have water clinging to them) and add the salmon. Pour the dressing over and toss well. Using kitchen shears, cut the nori sheet into strips directly over the noodle salad, reserving a little for garnish. Add the green onion and toss. Divide the salad evenly between 2 bowls and garnish with the sesame seeds and the reserved nori. Serve immediately.
Creamy Herb Dressing Here"s a dressing that"s super-easy to whip up at a moment"s notice and is wonderful on a variety of different salads, such as Potato, Green Bean, and Radish Salad Potato, Green Bean, and Radish Salad); just about any pasta salad; freshly steamed vegetables like spring peas and asparagus; or a green romaine salad. It also makes a very nice marinade for chicken or fish. If the dressing is too tart for your taste, add a tiny bit of honey to balance it. If you want something more like a cla.s.sic green G.o.ddess dressing, increase the herbs and add minced anchovies and garlic.
TIME REQUIRED: 10 minutes active (excluding yogurt, creme fraiche, and mustard preparation) 10 minutes active (excluding yogurt, creme fraiche, and mustard preparation) YIELD: 1 cups 1 cups 1 cups Yogurt Yogurt or or Creme Fraiche Creme Fraiche cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley1 tablespoon Honey Mustard Honey Mustard1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint1 tablespoon chopped fresh chervil or dill1 teaspoon chopped fresh lemon thyme or regular thyme teaspoon honey (optional)SaltFreshly ground black pepper Whisk together the yogurt, parsley, mustard, mint, chervil, thyme, and honey (if using). Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a jar and cover. The dressing will keep, refrigerated, for about 1 week.
Potato, Green Bean, and Radish Salad with Creamy Herb Dressing Creamy Herb Dressing makes a wonderfully fresh dressing for this or any potato salad. Vary the vegetables according to the season. Spring"s asparagus can stand in for summer"s green beans. Cherry tomatoes and cuc.u.mbers also make nice additions. Steaming the potatoes whole makes for a better potato salad. It"s super-easy, very fast, and it cooks the potatoes evenly without making them waterlogged.
TIME REQUIRED: about 30 minutes active (excluding dressing preparation) about 30 minutes active (excluding dressing preparation) YIELD: 6 servings 6 servings 1 pounds small new potatoes (fingerlings or Yukon golds work wonderfully) pound green beans, stemmed1 bunch radishes, halved and thinly sliced (about 1 cup)About 1 cup Creamy Herb Dressing Creamy Herb DressingSaltFreshly ground black pepper Scrub the potatoes and put them whole and unpeeled in a steamer basket. Steam over boiling water until tender, about 15 minutes (depending on their size). Test for doneness by inserting a paring knife into them. Remove and let the potatoes cool, reserving the water.
Add more water to the steamer if necessary and add the green beans. Steam until crisp-tender and bright green, 2 to 3 minutes. Rinse with cold water, then plunge them into a small bowl of ice water to stop the cooking.
When the potatoes are cool, cut them into bite-sized pieces and transfer to a large bowl. Drain the green beans and pat dry, and then cut them into 1-inch lengths. Add them to the bowl with the potatoes. Add the radishes and the dressing. Toss until the vegetables are evenly coated. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
This salad is best served right away because the moisture from the vegetables can cause the dressing to become watery. If you want to make it ahead, a.s.semble the components separately, refrigerate them, and add the dressing at the last moment.
NO-WASTE TIP: Not only does steaming potatoes make a better potato salad, but it"s a smart way to save water and energy. Steaming requires less water than boiling and allows you to reuse the same water to steam the green beans and other vegetables. Also, your stove requires less energy to heat a small amount of water than it does to heat a large pot Not only does steaming potatoes make a better potato salad, but it"s a smart way to save water and energy. Steaming requires less water than boiling and allows you to reuse the same water to steam the green beans and other vegetables. Also, your stove requires less energy to heat a small amount of water than it does to heat a large pot.
Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette Everyone needs a simple dressing to have on hand for everyday green salads, potato salads, pasta, and beans. Why buy it at the grocery store when it"s so easy to make? I"ve named this "best ever" because when it"s made with your own Red Wine Vinegar and Grainy Prepared Mustard, it is. And the Tomato-Garlic variation is particularly good on bean and grain salads. Use the best olive oil you can afford and buy local or domestic if you can. If you find an imported extra-virgin olive oil that seems too cheap, it probably is. Counterfeiting is common in the global olive oil industry. What you think is pure olive oil may actually contain soybean oils or other cheap oils. See Sources Sources for domestic producers for domestic producers.
TIME REQUIRED: 10 minutes active (excluding vinegar and mustard preparation) 10 minutes active (excluding vinegar and mustard preparation) YIELD: about cup about cup 3 tablespoons Red Wine Vinegar Red Wine Vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice (for a lighter salad) or freshly squeezed lemon juice (for a lighter salad)1 tablespoon minced shallot1 teaspoon any variation Grainy Prepared Mustard Grainy Prepared Mustard cup extra-virgin olive oilSaltFreshly ground black pepper Whisk together the vinegar, shallot, and mustard. Slowly drizzle in the oil, while whisking continuously, until the dressing comes together. Season with salt and pepper. Store in a covered jar refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
VARIATION:.
TOMATO-GARLIC VINAIGRETTE.
Add tomatoes and garlic to the Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette and you"ve got a versatile dressing for bean, grain, or pasta salads, or for marinating or drizzling over cooked fish or chicken.
IN ADDITION TO THE BASIC VINAIGRETTE INGREDIENTS:1 garlic clove, peeled and left wholeSalt2 fresh Roma tomatoes, peeled, or 2 canned Roma tomatoes In a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic to a paste along with a pinch of salt. Add the tomatoes and pound them until smooth. Add to the finished basic vinaigrette.
Cannellini Bean Salad with Tomato-Garlic Vinaigrette This is just one example of the versatility that can be achieved by combining cooked dried beans with seasonal vegetables and a great homemade vinaigrette. A freshly made warm bean salad can serve as an economical and substantial meal when paired with a grain, or bread and cheese. As a side dish, beans go well with grilled or roasted meats like Texas-Style Barbecued Brisket Texas-Style Barbecued Brisket and they"re great to take to a potluck. This salad is best in winter, when radicchio is at its peak. In spring, you might include baby artichokes or asparagus; summer might call for cherry tomatoes and green beans; fall may bring roasted red peppers and eggplant from the garden. The Tomato-Garlic Vinaigrette goes well with any of the above combinations. Make sure you drain the beans thoroughly to prevent your salad from tasting watery and they"re great to take to a potluck. This salad is best in winter, when radicchio is at its peak. In spring, you might include baby artichokes or asparagus; summer might call for cherry tomatoes and green beans; fall may bring roasted red peppers and eggplant from the garden. The Tomato-Garlic Vinaigrette goes well with any of the above combinations. Make sure you drain the beans thoroughly to prevent your salad from tasting watery.
TIME REQUIRED: about 15 minutes active; 6 hours pa.s.sive to soak and cook beans, (excluding dressing preparation) about 15 minutes active; 6 hours pa.s.sive to soak and cook beans, (excluding dressing preparation) YIELD: 6 to 8 servings 6 to 8 servings 4 cups cooked and drained cannellini beans2 celery ribs, cut in half lengthwise and sliced thinly on the diagonal small head radicchio, cut in half, cored, and sliced thinly red onion, sliced thinlyAbout 12 pitted green olives (1 ounce), quartered cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley1 teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary to cup Tomato-Garlic Vinaigrette Tomato-Garlic VinaigretteSaltFreshly ground black pepper In a large bowl, combine the beans, celery, radicchio, onion, olives, parsley, marjoram, and rosemary. Add the vinaigrette (starting with cup), and toss well. Season with salt and pepper, adding a little more vinaigrette if desired. Serve at room temperature within 3 hours, or cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days. Bring to room temperature and taste for salt before serving salad that has been refrigerated.
Bean Cooking Method That Yields Maximum Flavor Leftover beans are great to have around for quick meals and snacks. They can be added to soups; tucked into quesadillas or tacos; eaten with eggs for breakfast or a light meal; pureed in the food processor with garlic, herbs, and olive oil to make a spread or dip; or tossed into a green salad with vegetables for a fast, nutritious meal.
YIELD: about 6 cups beans about 6 cups beans 1 pound dried beans, picked through for stones and rinsed thoroughly (see Tip, below)3 tablespoons olive oil1 small onion, chopped1 celery rib, chopped (optional)2 to 3 garlic cloves, choppedSalt Soak the beans in cold water to cover for at least 4 hours or overnight, if time allows.
Heat the oil in a large pot and add the onion, celery (if using), and garlic. Saute until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the beans and their soaking water to the pot, unless the water looks dirty, then drain, rinse, and start with fresh water. Add water as needed to cover the beans by 1 inch. Bring to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Lower the heat to a bare simmer, cover partially, and cook until the beans are tender, but hold their shape, 45 minutes to 3 hours (depending on the size and age of the beans), stirring occasionally. You may need to add water to keep the beans submerged.