The whole of the following day was spent in coasting along that part of Anatolia formerly called Lycia, Pamphylia, and Cilicia, keeping very near the sh.o.r.e. It was a great privilege to pa.s.s near scenes of such interest as those regions through which Paul and his companions pa.s.sed, and to see the very places on which their eyes must have rested. Cyprus was visible on the right, but too distant from us to obtain much idea of its appearance. Early in the morning of the 29th we found ourselves in the harbor of Mersina, the port of Tarsus, about ten miles from that city, of which Paul was a citizen. This latter place itself we could not see, but we were shown the direction in which it lay among the mountains, and the point where the Cydnus flows into the sea with its cold waters fresh from Taurus, whose snowy tops we plainly saw. The ship remained here till the afternoon, shipping wheat, and we were much interested in seeing a train of one hundred and fifty camels winding down from the direction of Taurus and moving slowly along the sh.o.r.e to discharge their freight at the warehouses upon the quay. We then turned our faces southward, pa.s.sing not far from Antioch, which, however, cannot be seen from the sea. We stopped a few hours at Latakia, near which rises the cone-shaped Mount Ca.s.sius. Soon after pa.s.sing this we had our first view of one of the spurs of Mount Lebanon, crowned with snow. This grand and extensive range became more and more conspicuous until we reached Tripoli, which lies beautifully at its feet in a fine wide bay. We sailed very near the island of Aradus, the ancient Arvad, opposite to which lies "the entering in of Hamath" so often mentioned in the Bible, the boundary of the Land of Promise, though never of that really possessed by the Israelites. The weather was very fine, but extremely hot, all the time we were on the water.
The first day we were in Beirut the sirocco was blowing a hot, enervating wind. Beirut looks beautiful, either from the sea or land.
It is built along the sh.o.r.e at the foot of Mount Lebanon. We find several American and English missionaries, many of whose schools we have visited and have been much interested in them; also attended some religious meetings. As it is the rainy season, the Friends are not able to get on quite so fast with their work as might otherwise be the case; but they have been warmly received, and their visit seems to be a very opportune one. Our party are all in usual health. The dear Friends think their health is improved, decidedly so, since they left America. Thine sincerely,
ELLEN CLARE MILLER.
Another letter from Ellen Clare Miller, from Mount Lebanon in 11th mo., 1867, to the editor of the _Friends" Review_, says:
"The last account forwarded to thee of our dear friends E. and S.
Jones was brought down to the 12th of this month. The great storms which had prevailed up to that time, severer for the season than had been known for many years, pa.s.sed away on that day. A remarkably fine rainbow, double and sixty degrees in height, one foot resting on the sea and the other on the base of Lebanon, appeared that evening just before sunset, giving very welcome promise of the return of fine weather. This was very cheering, as the heavy rains had for the time suspended the work of visiting schools, except that of E. B. Thompson, which adjoins M. Mott"s house. We are not able yet to give a very clear statistical account of the many schools in Beirut and Lebanon for the education of boys and girls, but there is, indeed, a great work going on through their agency--a work of very widely extended influence. E. B. Thompson has fourteen schools under her influence, some in Beirut, some in the mountains. E. Saleeby, a Syrian, who has spent some time in Scotland and England, and whose efforts are princ.i.p.ally supported by subscriptions from the former country, has many more under his care. The American missionaries have stations at Beirut and in several towns in the mountains, and we are at present at a boarding-school for training Syrian girls for teachers, conducted by two young ladies from England, sent out by the Society for Promoting Female Education in the East. They have at present only eighteen girls, on account of their limited means; the school will accommodate thirty, and the education given and the Christian influence extended, here as at other schools which we have seen, are very telling, and are raising the women to a very different position from that which they formerly occupied even among the nominal Christians in the country.
The prejudice against their education was very great among all sects, and still exists, from the Mohammedans, who believe that woman has no soul, among the Druses, Maronites, and Catholics, and the somewhat more enlightened Protestants, who are now, through these schools, awaking to the advantage of having their daughters educated.
"The people everywhere seem very intelligent, and there seems much openness to receive missionaries from the Society of Friends, whose spiritual teaching is much needed in these parts; and we hope the feet of some may be directed to this Bible land, where the fields are already white unto harvest and the laborers few, and that Friends may see their way to lend funds to carry on this great work of Christian education among the females of the East. There is an innate n.o.bility in them, and a gentleness and warmth of feeling in the women, which, when so developed, produce a fine character. Those who cannot speak English look at us with eyes full of love and interest, and by their expressive gestures convey more than many of our words would do. We became much interested in the girls of E. B. Thompson"s princ.i.p.al school, which we frequently visited, Eli Jones taking the Scripture cla.s.s several times. He found their knowledge of the Bible and their understanding of its truths equal, if not superior, to what we should find in our own schools in America and England. Besides this school, E. and S. J. visited the infant school in connection with it, also three smaller branch schools under E. B. Thompson"s direction, and a boys" school conducted by two very superior young men, native teachers, but also under her superintendence. They also went to the Prussian Deaconesses" Inst.i.tution, where the children receive a good education under Christian influences; then to the school for girls under the care of Dr. Bliss, the American missionary: of this latter a native Syrian and his wife have the immediate superintendence, residing in the house with the boarders. The children everywhere are well instructed in the Bible, and commit a great deal to memory both from the Arabic and English Scriptures. In all the schools the Friends delivered their message, exhorting all to use diligence to advance in their education, that through the instrumentality of her young men and young women Syria may rise among nations, and encouraging them to seek earnestly and prayerfully after a knowledge of Him without knowing whom, with all their learning and knowledge, they cannot be truly great--often kneeling in prayer with the teachers and scholars before leaving the school. They attended also a meeting for the Home Mission Society, where they addressed, through the medium of M. Bosistani, its princ.i.p.al, the college for the education of Syrian young men, as well as the American and E. B. Thompson"s school, who were all present.
"On Sixth day morning we started for Sook-el-Gharb, a little village twelve miles from Beirut on the side of Lebanon, two thousand feet above the sea, where we intended to remain an hour or two visiting the schools there, and then to continue our journey a little farther to a village which we might make our headquarters while visiting the schools in that neighborhood, it being considered that the mountain-roads would have sufficiently recovered from the effects of the storm to be pa.s.sable. The wind and the rain had, however, been so much more violent than is usual at this season that the road was much worse than had been expected, the path being in some places washed away by the torrents, which, wearing themselves a rough channel down what had been the road, had thrown up a wall of large loose stones on each side, making the journey in some parts dangerous, and so fatiguing that Sybil Jones was very much exhausted on arriving at Sook, and unable to proceed farther without a rest of two or three days. As much care as possible had been used in getting her up the mountain, riding being the only means of travelling on these steep, rough mountain-roads, with their ascents and descents more precipitous than can be well imagined without being seen; but the shaking and exertion were quite too much for her back, unused to such exercise, and she was confined to bed, suffering much from pain and weakness, until Third day, the 19th, when she was carried in a chair to this place, twenty minutes" ride distant from Sook, by a comparatively level path. The exertion of this so tired her that with great reluctance she had to decide that she must give up the prospect of going farther into the mountains. Eli Jones and A. L. Fox are accordingly visiting the various mountain-schools, while she is remaining at the school in Shumlan. It is a great disappointment and a trial of faith to both the dear Friends that it has thus been ordered so differently from what had been planned; but we cannot but believe that it will be overruled for the best. The ride from Beirut to Sook-el-Gharb is a very interesting one. We halted for some time at a little rude khan at the side of a little stream of clear cold water, where we rested a while under the shade of a fine evergreen oak, and had some refreshments, being offered cakes of the Arab bread, which is very thin and flat and baked of coa.r.s.e flour, producing the effect of a small sheet of chamois leather; though rather tough, it is sweet and quite edible, and in constant use in this part of the country. They tear off a piece, roll it up, and dip it into their food, instead of using knives and forks; and we were much interested in hearing that it was still the practice in doing honor to another at table to present him with such a piece dipped in the choicest part of the mess, reminding us of our Saviour"s gift to Judas. Our view from this village is very fine. We look down on the Mediterranean, ten miles or more distant, but looking in this deceptive atmosphere not more than three or four miles off. Between us and it intervene the terraced sides of Lebanon, laid out in mulberry-gardens or newly sown with wheat. Our stay at Sook, though unintentional, seemed to be in right ordering, for service opened up there. The mistress of the house where we were, E. Saleeby"s wife, was dangerously ill, and has since died, and her husband felt the dear Friends" visit one of great comfort and entertained us with much kindness. E. Jones and A. Fox visited the boys" and girls" school there, as well as at Abeih and Bhamdn, some hours" ride from Sook, E. J. examining the children in Scripture and in other branches, speaking to and praying with them, and distributing English and Arabic books. He also held meetings at Sook and Shumlan in the school-house, attended by the schools and several of the villagers, where the words earnestly spoken were attentively and gladly received. We have heard twice from E. J. and A. L. F. since they left us--good accounts. We were hoping to have seen them back last evening, but they did not appear. We suppose that they must have gone farther than was at first intended."
The following is a letter from Eli Jones, written to the _Friends"
Review_ a few days later than the above letter from E. C. Miller:
SYRIA AND PALESTINE.
SHUMLAN, 12th, 21st, 1867.
My dear Sybil feeling unable to go farther over these almost trackless mountains without time for more rest, it seemed best for her and E.
C. Miller to remain at the boarding-school for girls at this place under the care of two English ladies, Lucy Hicks and Mary M. Jacombs, while A. L. Fox and I should proceed in the work. Accordingly, on the 22d of last month we left at eight o"clock in the morning on horseback, attended by an efficient dragoman named Georgius, an interpreter, Ibrahim, and Abdallah and Ha.s.san, muleteers. After a ride of two hours we reached Abeih, and were kindly cared for at the house of Simon Calhoun and wife, American missionaries. He has been many years in this country, and is, we learn, much esteemed by all cla.s.ses.
Our first call was at the school of the Druses. The provost of the school and the teacher of English met us at the gate and gave us a cordial welcome; then led us to an apartment where sweetmeats and coffee in tiny cups, according to the custom of the country, were served. In answer to our question whether the Holy Scriptures were read in the school, the teacher of English a.s.sured us that they were read by his cla.s.s. He is a student from the American school, and will do what he can, I doubt not, in his delicate position to inculcate Christian sentiment among this peculiar people.
In the afternoon we visited the boys" and also the girls" school, under the care of the American mission, and were pleased with the advance they have made in their education: we spoke to the children in each school, William Bird interpreting, as he did in the evening, when we met the young men at the Abeih seminary for the education of native teachers. This inst.i.tution has been in successful operation for the last twenty-five years. Each student is expected to devote from one to two hours each day to the study of the Holy Scriptures. These students may now be met in almost all parts of Syria and in Mesopotamia and Egypt.
_Seventh day, 23d._ Rode to Deir-el-Kamr; found lodgings at the school-house, where E. B. Thompson has a small school. After dinner took an hour"s ride to Beteddin; called at the palace of Douad Pasha, governor of the pashalic of the Lebanon. The governor was not at home; we were met by some of his subordinate officers, with whom we had interesting discourse.
_First day, 24th._ At an early hour we mounted our trusty steeds, and reached Mukhtarah about ten A. M. Riding up to the palace of the great Druse chief, Said Beg Jumplatt, we found the two young princes about to set out on a ride to pa.s.s the day with friends in a neighboring town, accompanied by N. Gharzuzee, the tutor of the younger prince, and other officials. They offered us the hospitalities of the house as long as we were disposed, which we accepted, and were soon informed that the princes had given up their antic.i.p.ated pleasure, saying they preferred to spend the time with us. The elder prince is nearly eighteen years of age, and married; the younger is about thirteen years old, bright and intelligent, and really "the hope of my house."
His tutor, N. Gharzuzee, who is a native of Syria, has spent several months in England; he speaks our language well and appears to be an earnest Christian. As Christians we could not fail to feel greatly interested in seeing such a man in so important a position, where he is teaching this young man, destined, so far as we can see, to fill the highest place of influence among this heterodox people--not only sciences and languages, but the pure and unsophisticated doctrines of the Bible. At one P. M. we met the children of the American mission and of E. M. Thompson"s schools, with several of the parents. After listening to a very satisfactory examination of the children in the Scriptures, I addressed them, N. Gharzuzee interpreting in an able manner. The meeting was one to which I recur with sincere satisfaction.
_25th._ Had our morning reading in Arabic, after which prayer was offered in English, in which strong desires were expressed in the name of Jesus, on behalf of the young princes, for the various members of the household and for Syria. We left after many a cordial shake of the hand and with many a "G.o.d bless you!" and "May you return to your own country in peace!" Near one o"clock P. M. we saw in the distance the snow-clad top of Hermon, which we seemed approaching. What thoughts filled our minds--thoughts too big for utterance--as we stood upon "the heights of that goodly mountain Lebanon," and saw the n.o.ble cone of Hermon rising majestically toward the meridian sun, while southward near its base lay the division of Naphtali, a portion of the "land of possession," where we hoped to arrive on the following day! "The north and the south, Thou hast created them; Tabor and Hermon shall rejoice in Thy name."
Pa.s.sed near a peasant at work with a curious plough drawn by a pair of tiny bullocks. We each took a turn in guiding the plough, and felt a pleasure for the time in occupying a place so often honored by prophets and good men of old in this historic land. About the time of the going down of the sun we reached Jezzin. Weary from the long journey, I lay for a time upon a rug near the fountain while our dragoman went to look for lodgings. During that brief time many a maiden came forth with her pitcher to draw water. What strong evidence this that we are nearing the Bible land! Lodgings were soon announced.
On reaching the room intended for our reception we found several members of the family busily engaged in covering the floor with matting, and near the seat of honor a fine carpet was spread.
Presently, finding I was weary, a thin mattress--or perhaps, as would be better understood in our country, a thick comfortable--was added as a bed. Here, stretching my weary limbs, I sought needed rest. By the time, however, that we were fairly domiciled a large circle of men came in and engaged in their favorite occupation, smoking. Though the fumes of the pipe have for us no attraction, but rather the contrary, still, finding our neighbors inclined to be social, we strove to make the conversation profitable and if possible edifying. In the course of the evening our kind hostess inquired if we would like water for our feet? On our replying in the affirmative, "a lordly dish" well filled was brought, and we were told all things were ready. Think what must have been our surprise on being told that the young woman standing near had volunteered to wash the strangers" feet! Fearing that our refusal might be misunderstood, we placed them at the disposal of the "little Syrian maid." With what thrilling interest ought we hereafter to read the account of what transpired when He whose blood cleanses from all sin "girded Himself and washed His disciples" feet," saying to them, "If I then, your Lord and Master, have washed your feet, ye also ought to wash one another"s feet; for I have given you an example that ye should do as I have done unto you!"
The morning of the 26th the priest of the place came in, with whom we had some pleasant intercourse. After breaking our fast we told the family that it was our practice, before proceeding on the journey of the day, to read a portion of Scripture and endeavor to lift up our hearts to G.o.d in prayer, and we gave them an invitation to be present.
They all remained with us, as did the priest. We need not inquire to what society these people belonged; suffice it to say, they entertained strangers, they washed our feet, they fed the hungry, they bade us go in peace, and refused our money as a recompense. After a ride of two hours we halted at Cafer Huney, a little village on our route, to have our horses" feet examined by a blacksmith and shoes set if needful. While waiting we went to the fountain, where several persons collected. After a time spent in pleasant conversation we spoke to them of the heavenly country and of salvation by Jesus Christ. We left with them copies of our Lord"s miracles in Arabic, which they received gladly. One of these rustic villagers, a lame man, offered me his cane as a walking-stick with such hearty good-will, saying he had others at home, that I took it and found it very useful in making the steep descent of Lebanon in the afternoon. Near sunset we reached the foot of the Lebanon range, and then crossed the Litany (named on many maps Leontes) on one of the few bridges to be found in this country. An hour and a half more brought us to the little town of Abbel, toward which we had looked as an Arab village where it might be difficult to find secure and comfortable lodging for the night. Ere we entered all was shrouded in darkness, for the night had set in, but, as it proved, a glad surprise awaited us. In reply to our first inquiry for lodgings we were told that "the American church would be the best place for us to stop at." A little farther on we were accosted by one with whitened locks, who, taking our hands, shook them with both of his with brotherly cordiality, and then with a light led the way to the comfortable house erected within the past year as a place for worship and a school-house by that devoted band of men whose praise is in all the churches in this land--the American missionaries.
By the time we had entered several of the brethren had arrived. The house is without seats. Mats were quickly arranged for us; then followed the arrangements for supper. A _canoon_ filled with charcoal with which to heat the water for tea first arrived; then one brought bread, another eggs, a third sugar, and another melons; and _such melons_! worthy the land that produced them. All things being ready, the travellers sit upon the floor about the inviting meal, and while they are busily engaged in satisfying the calls of hunger the company increases; and here our responsibilities widen, for as we have been privileged to partake of their good things for the sustenance of the body, we are in duty bound, as far as may be our power, to meet their spiritual and intellectual wants. I trust this evening, our first in Palestine, was spent to the mutual benefit of all concerned. On the morning of the 27th the school-children and several of the parents came in, to whom we spoke words of encouragement in the pursuit of useful knowledge, and especially that which "maketh wise unto salvation." An hour more brought us to Krhyam, where we met another school. We spoke to them of Him who is the only "Hope of Israel."
Again in the saddle, we rode away across the extensive and fertile valley of Marjaiyum.
Just before reaching D"Mimas we met William Eddy of New York State, a minister in connection with the American mission. On learning our intentions, he kindly proposed to return to D"Mimas, that he might be with us during our stay; his presence and kind care contributed largely to our comfort. Here we visited another school and met several of the brethren socially. The subject of education, and especially the education of women, was freely discussed. We endeavored to show them that no people can be happy or prosperous while woman holds a degraded position among them, and that it is in vain to look for great men where good and virtuous mothers are not to be found. As we press onward what a view opens before us! One short hour farther we stand upon a rocky knoll near the ancient town of Abel, where Joab claimed Sheba the son of Bichri as a condition of peace. Looking eastward, toward our right are the hills of the ancient Bashan, thickly dotted with oaks, those emblems of strength; toward the left Hermon lifts his head to heaven in solemn and solitary majesty. Not far are the sites where stood Laish, Dan, and Caesarea Philippi of the Scriptures, which we hope to visit before nightfall, and all around on either hand we have spread out before us one of the great battlefields of the Bible. We spent a short time in the town distributing a few Arabic books, and met with, as far as we could learn, the only school-teacher, who told us he had under his instruction fourteen boys. We tried to give him encouragement in the work, and gave him a copy of the Psalms.
Soon after mid-day we reached Tell-el-Kady, "the hill of the judge,"
the Dan of Scripture. Two things are here worthy of special notice: the fountain of the Jordan and the site of the ancient city of Dan.
The Tell is cup-shaped, and bears evidence of being an extinct crater.
On an island of rocks in size little more than sufficient to accommodate our party, and beneath the wide-spreading branches of an ancient oak, we took our humble mid-day meal. We had scarcely begun to satisfy our own appet.i.tes when a mounted Arab, armed to the teeth, rode up and asked for food, to whom we gladly gave a portion, for, once fed from our store, he becomes an ally, not a foe. Perhaps I ought here to add that on our way to this place from Abel we were accosted by an armed Arab, who demanded "backsheesh" as I rode abreast of him: feeling that we owed him naught but love and good-will, we gave him no money, and were suffered to pa.s.s without further molestation. The ruin of the ancient city of Dan is very complete; a few broken walls, fallen stones, and pieces of pottery are all that are left to tell of a people long since pa.s.sed away.
The story of Dan is soon told. Originally an agricultural colony of the Phoenicians, called Lessem or Laish, it was captured by six hundred Danites from the towns of Zorah and Eshtaol. The capture of Laish by the Danites in the north was the fulfilment of Moses"s prophetic blessing to the tribe: "Dan is a lion"s whelp; he shall leap from Bashan." Deut. x.x.xiii. 22.
Another hour"s ride brought us to Banias, standing amid the ruins of the ancient Caesarea Philippi. The modern village is inhabited by some one hundred persons of the Moslem faith, who live in wretched ignorance and poverty. We lodged at the house of the sheik; a room was a.s.signed us and mats spread. There we stretched our weary limbs, but, as the sequel proved, not so much to sleep as to contemplate upon the fact that we had nearly reached the base of Hermon and the site of Caesarea Philippi, and upon the record that our Lord, after healing the blind man at Bethsaida, "came into the coast of Caesarea Philippi"--that not far from this place He made that striking appeal to His disciples: "Whom say ye that I am?" and soon after, taking three of His disciples, "He went up into a mountain, and was transfigured before them." Yes,
"I tread where the Twelve in their wayfaring trod, I stand where they stood with the Chosen of G.o.d-- Where His message was heard and His lessons were taught, Where the blind were restored and the healing was wrought."
The next morning, before leaving, we conversed with a son of the sheik, himself a husband and father, upon the importance of education.
He acknowledged his own inability to read, and further said that the children were all needed by their parents to work; and as to woman, her business was to care for the house and meet the wants of men, and if she did not do this well she must be beaten to make her do it. Such is the state of civilization where once stood a great and prosperous city, whose architectural ruins attest the fact that its citizens must have been men of skill and taste. Again in the saddle, we turned our course northward. Near noon we ascended a high elevation, where our dragoman halted and called out, "Look! look!" Facing southward, we looked and saw Hermon on our left standing in majestic greatness, and beyond, far to the south, the waters of the Sea of Galilee. Mid the glare of a noonday sun the little sea seems a molten ma.s.s of silvery hue. We have within the scope of our vision a mountain whose name is accepted as a word of beauty, a valley of great natural fertility, and the arena of mighty deeds done by men whose record is found in the "Book of books," and whose G.o.d is the Lord. Here young Jordan springs into life and links its destiny with the waters of Merom, and onward the eye stretches to that now placid sheet where in a dark and stormy night the chosen band were troubled, and where a compa.s.sionate Saviour allayed their fears.
We dined at Rasheiyet,[8] at the house of a native Protestant minister, where we were kindly entertained. He accompanied us to the school of the American mission. We were pleased with what we saw, more especially with the students" knowledge of scriptural history.
Several hours more brought us to Hasbeiya; we lodged at the school-house and had our mats spread upon the seats, thus extemporizing a bedstead. Next morning about twenty of the girls came in to meet us, and also two of the female teachers. We spoke of the way of life and salvation, with such words of encouragement as we found in our hearts. A ride of several hours brought us to Rasheyya el-Wady. We lodged at the house of one Moses, the first person of the place who embraced Protestant views.
[8] In tracing out the course of these travels I have used the spelling given in Bradley"s _Atlas of the World_.
Next day, 1st of 12th mo., held a meeting at the school-house. I felt strengthened, as I trust, to preach "Christ, and Him crucified," as the only way of life and salvation. On the following day at an early hour we pa.s.sed out of the town by the light of a lantern. At half-past one P. M. we began to ascend Lebanon. At one place near the top we found our path literally strewed with fossils (bivalves); some of these we collected to take home with us. After a journey of nearly fifteen hours we reached Shumlan, our mountain-home, and were glad to find our companions in comfortable health, and I trust a feeling of thankfulness was felt to our heavenly Father for His protecting care so mercifully granted during our separation. Very sincerely, thy friend,
ELI JONES.
We give below some extracts from letters written to the _Friends"
Review_ by Ellen Clare Miller, giving a definite account of the number and working of the schools in Beirut and Lebanon for the education of the young sons and daughters of Syria. E. and S. Jones have visited the greater number of them, and found many different kinds of laborers--Americans, English, Scotch, and Syrian--all doing a good work for the land:
"Most of those among the natives who are true Christians, and who are exerting a good influence upon the people here, refer gratefully to the American missionaries as those who were instrumental in bringing them to the truth. The American mission has stations at many places among the mountains, most of which have been visited by Eli Jones and A. L. Fox; and besides those in the north of Syria, which we shall not see, they have three in Sidon and its neighborhood under the care of W. Eddy, which we hope soon to visit. The Syrian Protestant college of which Dr. Bliss is president is an inst.i.tution where Druses, Maronites, Greeks, Armenians, and Protestants together receive a literary, scientific, and medical training under Protestant influence.
E. and S. Jones visited this college last week, when they met twenty-eight of the young men, whom they were invited to address. Eli Jones set before them clearly and forcibly the great power of individual influence possessed by each student, the influence their inst.i.tution must exert on the land, the measure it was of the power of the country, as no stream can rise higher than its source, and as the fountain is the stream will be. Sybil Jones, as an American mother who knew much of such inst.i.tutions in her own land, affectionately urged them to work perseveringly and prayerfully in their studies, that each one might leave the world better for his having been in it. It was a very interesting visit; the young men, a fine, intellectual-looking company, listened with great attention, and afterward gathered round the Friends to express their thanks for their kind interest in them.
"There is a large girls" school in Beirut, under the immediate care of a Syrian and his wife, but superintended by the wife of Dr. Bliss, Dr.
Thompson"s wife, and other ladies. This we have visited more than once, when E. and S. Jones have spoken to the children."
"Besides the school at Shumlan, which is under the care of the English Society for Promoting Female Education in the East, the schools supported by England are all in the hands of Elizabeth Bowen Thompson, whose work is a very extensive one. Her schools are at present twelve in number--five at villages in the mountains--all (with the exception of one recently opened at Ainzabatte, where an English young lady is stationed) taught by natives who have been trained by E. B. Thompson herself. Her work here began in 1860, when the fearful struggle between the Druses, Maronites, and Mohammedans made so many widows and orphans. These Elizabeth Thompson gathered around her at Beirut, providing for and educating them. Since then the field has gradually opened before her, until she has now seven day-schools in Beirut and its immediate neighborhood, and a normal training-school of upward of sixty boarders. All of these E. and S. J. have visited, many of them frequently."
"There are many daughters of Jews and Mohammedans among E. B.
Thompson"s scholars, and it is very interesting to hear these little girls singing Christian hymns with the others and repeating and listening to pa.s.sages predicting the coming of the Messiah alike of the Jew and the Christian, and testifying of Jesus as the Christ. E.
and S. Jones had a very interesting meeting with about forty of the native teachers and others connected with these British schools. There is a large girls" school, with an orphanage, under the care of the Prussian deaconesses, similar to the one we visited at Smyrna. Here Sybil Jones had an interesting time with the sisters and the children.
She also visited the hospital, an establishment in beautiful order, under the care of four of the sisterhood, where, in a large house finely situated near the seash.o.r.e, the very poor are kindly nursed and cared for. A school for Jewish children, conducted by missionaries sent out by the Jews" society in Scotland, has lately been established in Beirut. To this also the Friends paid a visit, which was spoken of by teachers as very helpful."
"We left the terraced sides of Lebanon on the last day of the year, returning to the region of the palm, orange, and p.r.i.c.kly pear. The weather has this month been very fine, though broken now and then by one of the fierce, sudden winter storms with their rushing rain and violent thunder and lightning. This wild climate suits Sybil Jones remarkably well; she has been better since returning to Beirut than she remembers to have been before, and she enjoys the riding on donkey-back. Eli Jones is better than when we first landed in Syria, though the bracing air of the mountains suits him better than this more relaxing temperature. We have visited most of the missionaries.
Friends and their principles were almost unknown here, but we have been most kindly received, and we hope way has been made for others of our Society who may come to this country. E. and S. Jones one day visited the Beirut prison, into which they were admitted without hesitation, and where they had the pleasure of speaking to about forty poor creatures, and of pointing them to Him who alone has power to break our spiritual fetters."
Below we give extracts from a letter of Eli Jones to the _Friends"
Review_, written from Jaffa in Palestine:
"_2d mo. 17th, 1868._ E. C. Miller"s health appearing not quite equal to a long journey, and finding it not possible to obtain more than three seats in the diligence for Damascus on the 25th of 1st mo., it was arranged that our young friend should "stay by the stuff" in Beirut while the other members of our party went forward. Accordingly, at the early hour of two o"clock A. M. we arose, breakfasted at half-past two, and at three took conveyance for the station, and at four precisely, with shawls, wraps, sandwiches, etc., were nicely packed in the coupee of the diligence."