FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.
[Ill.u.s.tration: CROCHET LACE.--CLOSE LEAVES AND BARS WITH PICOTS]
Crochet Work.
Crochet work, so called from the hook, French _croche_ or _croc_, with which it is done, is not only one of the easiest but in comparison with the cost and labour, one of the most effective kinds of fancy-work. It is also one of the most useful, as it can be applied to the domestic requirements of every-day life, to wearing apparel, house-linen and upholstery; and we are sure that the patterns contained in this chapter, which have in addition to their other merits that of novelty, will meet with a favorable reception.
Hooks, or needles, as they are generally called, made of wood, bone or tortoise-sh.e.l.l are used for all the heavier kinds of crochet work in thick wool or cotton, and steel ones for the finer kinds. The Tunisian crochet is done with a long straight hook, which is made all in one piece. The points should be well polished inside and not too sharp, the backs slightly curved, and the handles, whether of bone, steel or wood, so light as not to tire the hand. Those represented here, we consider the best, as regards shape. As it is most essential that the needle should be suited to the cotton in size, we subjoin a comparative table of the numbers of the D.M.C threads and cottons and of the different needles.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 400. CROCHET NEEDLE WITH WOODEN HANDLE.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 401. CROCHET NEEDLE WITH STEEL HANDLE.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 402. ENGLISH CROCHET NEEDLE WITH WOODEN HANDLE.]
TABLE OF THE APPROXIMATE RELATION OF THE D.M.C THREADS AND COTTONS TO THE NUMBERS OF THE CROCHET NEEDLES.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Numbers of the | | | | | | | | | crochet needles | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 16 | 18 | -------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------| Numbers of the | | | | | | | | | cottons | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | -------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------+ Coton pour crochet | --- | 6 | 8-10| 12-14| 16-20|24-40| --- | --- | Coton a tricoter | 6 | 8 |10-12| 14-16| 18-25|25-40| 50 | --- | Fil a pointer | 10 | 15 |20-30| --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | Cordonnet 6 fils | 1-1 | 2-2 | 3-4 | 10-15| 20-30|40-60|70-90|100-150| Fil d"Alsace | --- | --- | --- | --- | 30 |36-50|60-90|100-150| Fil a dentelle | --- | --- | --- | --- | 25 |30-50|60-90|100-150| -----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
EXPLANATION OF THE SIGNS *.--In crochet, as in knitting, you frequently have to repeat the same series of st.i.tches. Such repet.i.tions will be indicated, by the signs *, **, ***, etc., as the case may be.
CROCHET St.i.tCHES.--In point of fact, there is only one, because all crochet work consists of loops made by means of the hook or needle, and connected together by being drawn the one through the other.
Crochet work may however, be divided into two kinds, German crochet, and Victoria or Tunisian crochet; the latter is known also under the name of _tricot-crochet._
In German crochet there are eight different kinds of st.i.tches: (1) chain st.i.tch, (2) single st.i.tch, (3) plain st.i.tch, (4) treble st.i.tch, (5) knot st.i.tch, (6) bullion st.i.tch, (7) cl.u.s.ter or scale st.i.tch, (8) double st.i.tch.
The rows are worked, according to the kind of st.i.tch, either to and fro, or all from one end. In the former case, the work has to be turned at the end of each row, and the subsequent row begun with 1, 2 or 3 chain st.i.tches to prevent the contraction of the outside edge.
When the rows are all worked one way, the thread must be fastened on afresh each time, which is done by putting the needle into the first chain st.i.tch of the preceding row, drawing the thread through it so as to form a loop, and making one or more chain st.i.tches according to the height required.
At the end of each row, cut the thread and draw the end through the last loop; in this manner all crochet work is finished off. Some crochet workers make a few extra chain st.i.tches with the ends of the thread at the beginning and end of each row, or fasten them off with a few st.i.tches on the wrong side.
They can also, when the occasion requires, be formed into a fringe or ta.s.sels as a finish to the work.
POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF (1) CHAIN St.i.tCH (fig.
403).--Take the thread in the left hand between the finger and thumb, hold the needle between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, letting it rest on the second finger, in the same manner in which you hold your pen, and put it into the loop, which you hold between the finger and thumb of the left hand. Take up the thread, lying on your finger, with the needle and make your first st.i.tch as you do in knitting, tightening the loop just enough to leave an easy pa.s.sage through it for the needle. The end of the thread must be held by the thumb and forefinger. The next st.i.tches are made by taking up the thread with the needle and drawing it through the loop. The throwing of the thread round the needle by a jerk of the wrist is called an "over".
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 403. POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF CHAIN St.i.tCH.]
(2) SINGLE St.i.tCH (fig. 404).--Put the needle in from the right side of the work, into the uppermost loop of the preceding row, take up the thread on the needle and draw it through both loops.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 404. SINGLE St.i.tCH.]
(3) PLAIN St.i.tCH (fig. 405).--Put the needle through, as in fig. 404, from the right side to the wrong, under the upper side, either of a chain, or of a st.i.tch of the preceding row, draw the thread through it in a loop, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through both loops on the needle. By making the rows of plain st.i.tches follow each other in different ways, a great variety of st.i.tches can be produced, as the ill.u.s.trations and written instructions here given will show.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 405. PLAIN St.i.tCH.]
ROSE St.i.tCH (fig. 406).--This consists of rows of plain st.i.tches, worked backwards and forwards. Insert the needle from the right side, under both the horizontal loops of the preceding row.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 406. ROSE St.i.tCH.]
RUSSIAN St.i.tCH (fig. 407).--This is worked like the foregoing, only that all the rows have to be begun from the same end, and the thread has to be cut off at the end of each row.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 407. RUSSIAN St.i.tCH.]
RIBBED St.i.tCH (fig. 408).--Worked backwards and forwards, the hook being pa.s.sed through the back part only of the st.i.tches of the preceding row.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 408. RIBBED St.i.tCH.]
CHAIN St.i.tCH.--Worked like fig. 408, but on one side only.
PIQUe St.i.tCH.--This st.i.tch also is only worked on one side. Put the needle in under one of the vertical threads of a st.i.tch and complete the plain st.i.tch. This is a st.i.tch that looks very well on the wrong side; the bars of the loop lie quite close together, which makes it particularly suitable for unlined articles of clothing. It requires a large-sized needle to do this st.i.tch well, especially if the material be a heavy one.
SLANTING St.i.tCH (fig. 409).--Worked entirely on the right side. Take up the back thread of a st.i.tch in the preceding row, take hold of the crochet thread without turning it round the needle and draw it through in a loop, and then finish the st.i.tch like a plain st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 409. SLANTING St.i.tCH.]
CROSSED St.i.tCH.--The name which is given to the preceding st.i.tch when both the threads of the st.i.tches in the row before, are taken up together, instead of the back one only.
RUSSIAN CROSSED St.i.tCH (fig. 410).--To work this st.i.tch which runs in slanting lines, put the needle in between the vertical threads of the st.i.tches and underneath the two horizontal ones.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 410. RUSSIAN CROSSED St.i.tCH.]
COUNTERPANE St.i.tCH (fig. 411).--Counterpanes can be made in a less close st.i.tch than those just described.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 411. COUNTERPANE St.i.tCH.]
To produce a soft and elastic fabric turn the thread round the needle and insert it under both the horizontal threads of a loop, take up the thread without turning it round the needle, draw it through in a loop, make an over, and draw the thread through all the three loops, that you have on the needle.
KNOTTED St.i.tCH (fig. 412).--This st.i.tch likewise is composed of plain st.i.tches, which, however differ in a slight degree from those we have described hitherto.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 412. KNOTTED St.i.tCH.]
Make an over, put the needle through the two horizontal threads of the st.i.tch below, make another over and draw it back through the two loops and the first over, make another over, and draw the thread through the last two loops.
LOOP St.i.tCH (fig. 413).--Worked as follows: when you have put the needle into the loop of a st.i.tch below, carry the thread, downwards from above, round a stripe of cardboard or a flat wooden ruler, then finish the st.i.tch in the usual way. These long loops, each about 2 c/m. in length, can also be made over the forefinger and held fast by the thumb as you work, but it is more difficult to make them regular in this way.
Each row of long st.i.tches is followed by a row of plain st.i.tches. The side, where the long loops lie, becomes the right side. If you wish this st.i.tch to be very thick and handsome, wind the thread three times round the ruler, or finger, and secure it with a plain st.i.tch; in this case, you should make one plain st.i.tch between every two cl.u.s.ters. A loose, fleecy thread is generally used for this st.i.tch, and for washing articles more especially, we recommend Coton a repriser D.M.C.