[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 658. ROUNDED CORNERS ON NETTING.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 659. LINEN St.i.tCH SET WITH DARNING St.i.tCH.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 660. LINEN St.i.tCH SET WITH CORD St.i.tCH.]
ROUNDED CORNERS OF NETTING (fig. 658).--Darning st.i.tches, made over a thread carried diagonally across one square and the adjacent corners of that and two other squares, produce the figure ill.u.s.trated in fig. 658.
The accompanying detail shows the mode of working.
The number of st.i.tches depends on the material you use; there should be no more than can lie quite flat, side by side, on the diagonal thread.
LINEN St.i.tCH, SET WITH DARNING St.i.tCH (fig. 659).--There are some patterns it would hardly be possible to work on netting unless you could soften the outlines by darning st.i.tches, as shown in the foregoing figure.
When employed as a setting to linen st.i.tch, there should be fewer than in fig. 658; you may also, instead of interrupting them at every corner, carry them all round a square, (see the right detail of the figure).
LINEN St.i.tCH SET WITH CORD St.i.tCH (fig. 660).--Many figures are also either corded or edged with twisted thread; both ways are represented in the ill.u.s.tration. In the latter case you can use the same thread as for the linen st.i.tch, or if you wish the setting to be very p.r.o.nounced, a thicker one. For instance, if the netting be made of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25[A] we recommend Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 15 or 20[A] for the setting. This difference of material is especially noticeable in the old Cluny Guipure, where the figures worked in linen st.i.tch are edged with a thread like a cord. But if the linen st.i.tch be bound with cord st.i.tch, the same thread must be used for it, as for the foundation. A soft material, like Coton a repriser, makes the best padding for the overcasting st.i.tches.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 661. FLOWER IN DOT St.i.tCH ON A FOUNDATION OF LINEN St.i.tCH.]
FLOWER IN DOT St.i.tCH ON A FOUNDATION OF LINEN St.i.tCH (fig. 661).--With the help of this st.i.tch, which is described in the chapter on white embroidery and represented in fig. 179, a great variety of little supplementary ornaments can be made, on every description of netted ground.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 662. BORDERING IN b.u.t.tONHOLE St.i.tCH.]
BORDERING IN b.u.t.tONHOLE St.i.tCH (fig. 662).--Scalloped edges in netting should be b.u.t.tonholed; 2 or 3 padding threads should be run in first, following the bars of the netting, over which the b.u.t.tonholing is done; the bars of the netting must not be cut away until the edge be finished.
CUT WORK IN EMBROIDERED NETTING (fig. 663).--Cut work here means half covering the bars of the netting with b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tches and half cutting them away with scissors. The inner bars are frequently ornamented with a double b.u.t.tonhole edging and knotted picots, see figs.
698 and 699 in the next chapter. You slightly separate the st.i.tches of the first row of b.u.t.tonholing so as to be able to introduce the thread of the second row between them.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 663. CUT WORK IN EMBROIDERED NETTING.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 664. STRAIGHT LOOP St.i.tCH.]
STRAIGHT LOOP St.i.tCH (fig. 664).--In the first row you carry the thread over one bar and slip it through behind a knot; in the second you do the same thing, only that above, your needle will pa.s.s under 3 threads, two of them the threads of the loop of the first row and the third a bar of the net. In every square 4 threads cross each other.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 665. WAVED St.i.tCH.]
WAVED St.i.tCH (fig. 665).--This st.i.tch, which forms a close waved ground, is produced by pa.s.sing the thread in each row of the netting over a square and behind a knot. When the pattern admits of it, as it mostly does, a considerably thicker thread is used for this st.i.tch and for the st.i.tches represented in figs. 667, 668, 669 and 670, than that in which the netting is made. When the netted ground is of Fil a dentelle D.M.C No. 50,[A] the embroidery upon it may very well be done in Cordonnet 6 fils. D.M.C No. 10[A], or Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 30.[A]
INTERSECTED LOOP St.i.tCH (fig. 666).--Begin by covering the whole surface to be embroidered with plain loop st.i.tches, then stretch threads diagonally across the squares of the netting and the loop st.i.tches; one set of threads running over the st.i.tches and under the knots of the netting, the other under the first and second threads of the loop st.i.tches and over the first crossed threads and the knots.
The laying and stretching of these threads must, it is hardly necessary to say, be systematically and regularly done.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 666. INTERSECTED LOOP St.i.tCH.]
GROUND WORKED IN HORIZONTAL LINES (fig. 667).--Make half cross st.i.tches over 4 squares of netting, by pa.s.sing the thread alternately over and under 3 knots, and under 3 squares of the netting. In the second row, cross the threads over those of the first row, as is shown in our engraving.
GROUND WORKED IN St.i.tCHES PLACED ONE ABOVE THE OTHER (fig.
668).--Cover a whole row of squares with cross st.i.tches and leave 3 rows of squares empty. When you have a sufficient number of rows of cross st.i.tches, take a long needle and pa.s.s it upwards from below, and from right to left, under the two bars of the third upper square; then pa.s.s downwards to the first square of the 3 bottom rows and under the bars from right to left, so as again to leave 3 squares between the fresh st.i.tches. The next row of st.i.tches is made in the same manner, so that the st.i.tches are not only set contrary ways but reciprocally cover each other.
LATTICED GROUND (fig. 669).--Begin by running the thread, to and fro, under two vertical bars and over three horizontal ones. When the ground is entirely covered, carry your thread from right to left, under the bars over which the first rows of threads are crossed; then take it over the long crosses, that correspond to 5 squares of netting, and pa.s.s it in the same line under the bars of the netting. In coming back, the long st.i.tches cross each other over the st.i.tches of the first rows.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 667. GROUND WORKED IN HORIZONTAL LINES.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 668. GROUND WORKED IN St.i.tCHES PLACED ONE ABOVE THE OTHER.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 669. LATTICED GROUND.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 670. GROUND WORKED IN RUSSIAN St.i.tCH.]
GROUND WORKED IN RUSSIAN St.i.tCH (fig. 670).--Pa.s.s the thread from left to right, under a bar of the netting, carry it downwards over 4 squares and pa.s.s it again, from left to right, under the bar, then upwards, again over 4 squares of netting and so on. The st.i.tches of the next rows are made in the same manner; you have only to see that the loops formed by the st.i.tches all come on the same line of knots.
GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD (fig. 671).--Herewith begins the series of st.i.tches, referred to at the beginning of the chapter, copied in part from one of the oldest and most curious pieces of embroidered netting we have ever met with. The copies were worked with Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25 and ecru Fil a dentelle D.M.C No. 70[A]; the former being used for the darning and the almond-shaped st.i.tches between; the latter for the b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches. Wherever two sizes of thread are used for one pattern, all the st.i.tches in the coa.r.s.e thread should be put in first and those in the fine, last.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 671. GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD.]
GROUND WITH WHEELS AND LOOP St.i.tCH (fig. 672).--You begin with the coa.r.s.e thread and finish all the wheels first, making them each over 4 threads of the netting; then with the fine thread, you make loop st.i.tches between them, in rows, as shown in figs. 641 and 642.
GROUND WORKED IN DARNING AND LOOP St.i.tCH (fig. 673).--The darning st.i.tches are made in the coa.r.s.e thread, over 4 squares of the netting, in a horizontal direction, with loop st.i.tches, in the fine thread, made between them, over the same number of squares.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 672. GROUND WITH WHEELS AND LOOP St.i.tCH.]
GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD (fig. 674).--Carry the coa.r.s.e thread, from right to left, under the first knot of the netting, and then under the next, from left to right. This has to be done twice, to and fro, so that the squares of the netting are edged on both sides with a double layer of threads.
When the whole foundation has been thus covered, take the fine thread and make loop st.i.tches in the squares between the other rows of st.i.tches, pa.s.sing the needle for that purpose over the double st.i.tch.
Lastly, intersect the loop st.i.tches with straight threads and pa.s.s the needle each time through the knot of the netting.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 673. GROUND WORKED IN DARNING AND LOOP St.i.tCH.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 674. GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 675. GROUND WORKED WITH CROSS St.i.tCHES IN ONE SIZE OF THREAD.]
GROUND WORKED WITH CROSS St.i.tCHES IN ONE SIZE OF THREAD (fig.
675).--This pattern, very like the foregoing one, consists of 3 diagonal rows of st.i.tches, worked to and fro, with cross st.i.tches made over them.
You may also begin with the cross st.i.tches, in the fine thread, and work the triple st.i.tches over them, in the coa.r.s.e.
GROUND WORKED WITH DARNING AND CORD St.i.tCHES (fig. 676).--Patterns, executed chiefly in darning st.i.tches, in a comparatively coa.r.s.e thread, present a closer and heavier appearance than those we have been describing. Here, every other square of the netting is filled, as closely as possible, with st.i.tches; the empty squares between are intersected diagonally with corded threads.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 676. GROUND WORKED WITH DARNING AND CORD St.i.tCHES.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 677. GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 678. GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS.]
GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS (figs. 677, 678, 679).--A ground very often met with in old embroidered netting, consists of diagonal lines of squares, closely filled with darning st.i.tches, alternating with diagonal lines of squares, each with a small wheel in the middle.
In fig. 678, the darning st.i.tches, and the wheels, which are both worked with the same material, cover 4 squares of the netting.