[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 728. NINTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 729. TENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
NINTH, AND TENTH LACE St.i.tCH (figs. 728 and 729).--Both, the small and the big pointed groups of st.i.tches, begin with a row of close b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches.
Fig. 728 requires three rows; in the second you miss two st.i.tches and make two in the next loops; in the third, only one st.i.tch is introduced between the two loops of the lower row.
Fig. 729 requires five rows. The st.i.tches of the first must be set as closely together as possible; in the second row you make four st.i.tches and miss two of the first row, in the third row you make three st.i.tches, in the fourth, two and in the fifth, one only. The long loops of the last row must not be too slack so that the first st.i.tches of the next scallop may quite cover them.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 730. ELEVENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
ELEVENTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 730).--This st.i.tch is not really more difficult to work than those we have been describing, but requires rather more attention to learn.
The first row consists of plain net st.i.tches; in the second, you have three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches in the middle net st.i.tch; in the third, three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches in the whole loops on either side of the three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches of the second row, and one st.i.tch in the half loops that precede and immediately follow them; the fourth row is similar to the second.
In the fifth row the close st.i.tches are changed. The three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches are made in the third whole loop, before and after those of the fourth row, so that between two groups of three st.i.tches you have six single b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches and seven loops.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 731. TWELFTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
TWELFTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 731).--Fasten on your thread, take it by overcasting st.i.tches over the braid edge, half a c/m. from the corner, and make three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches downwards, quite close together. The next loops, over four or six threads of the braid, must be left long enough to be on a level with the first st.i.tch reaching downwards from the edge.
In the second row, you cover the long loops with three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches and draw the intervening thread quite tight.
The third row is like the first, with the difference, that you put the needle in between the two threads of the b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch, instead of through the loops.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 732. THIRTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
THIRTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 732).--The st.i.tch here represented, as well as the two next ones are looped from left to right and then again from right to left.
As it is more unusual to make the loops from left to right than the reverse way, the proper position of the needle and the course of the thread are shown in the ill.u.s.trations.
Fig. 732 requires, in the first place, two b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches very close together in the edge of the braid, then a third st.i.tch covering the two first st.i.tches and set quite close to them; the connecting thread between these st.i.tches must be tightly stretched so as to lie almost vertically, that the st.i.tches may form straight lines.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 733. FOURTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
FOURTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 733).--This begins, likewise, with two b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches, above which you make two b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches instead of one, as in fig. 732, producing an open ground with vertical bars.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 734. FIFTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
FIFTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 734).--This resembles the two foregoing st.i.tches and consists of three b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches, made over the edge of the braid or the intermediate bars, and joined together afterwards under one transverse st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 735. SIXTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
SIXTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 735).--You begin this by a row of net st.i.tches worked from right to left, or as the engraving shows, by a row of st.i.tches called seed st.i.tches.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 736. SEVENTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
The second row, worked from left to right, consists of short bars, set slanting and shaped like a seed, and made the same way as the picot in fig. 699. The first st.i.tch is carried through the loop of the row below, the second over both threads and far enough from the loop to leave room for three other st.i.tches. The first of the four b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches of the next group must be set quite close to the last.
SEVENTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 786).--Here we have the same pattern as the preceding one without the row of net st.i.tches; the engraving shows us at the same time, the proper direction of the needle and thread for the row that is worked from right to left.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 737. EIGHTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
EIGHTEENTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 737).--This is the first of a series of lace st.i.tches, often met with in old Venetian lace, and which can therefore with perfect right be called, Venetian st.i.tches.
Owing to the manner and order in which the rows of st.i.tches are connected and placed above one another, they form less transparent grounds than those we have hitherto described.
In these grounds you begin by making the row of loops, then you throw a thread across on the same level and in coming back, pa.s.s the needle through the row of loops under the thread stretched across, and under the st.i.tch of the previous row.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 738. NINETEENTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
NINETEENTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 738).--The close st.i.tch here represented is more common in Venetian lace than the loose st.i.tch given in fig.
737.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 739. TWENTIETH LACE St.i.tCH.]
TWENTIETH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 739).--By missing some loops of the close ground in one row and replacing them by the same number in the next, small gaps are formed, and by a regular and systematic missing and taking up of st.i.tches, in this way, extremely pretty grounds can be produced.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 740. TWENTY-FIRST LACE St.i.tCH.]
TWENTY-FIRST LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 740).--These close lace st.i.tches, can be varied in all sorts of other ways by embroidering the needle-made grounds.
In fig. 740, you have little tufts in darning st.i.tch, and in a less twisted material than the close st.i.tches of the ground, worked upon the ground.
If you use Fil a dentelle D.M.C (lace thread) for the ground, you should take either Coton a repriser D.M.C (darning cotton), or better still, Coton surfin D.M.C[A] for the tufts. The ground can also be ornamented with little rings of b.u.t.tonholing, stars or flowerets in bullion or some other fancy st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 741. TWENTY-SECOND LACE St.i.tCH.]
TWENTY-SECOND LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 741).--For the above three st.i.tches and the three that follow, the work has to be held, so that the finished rows are turned to the worker and the needle points to the outside of the hand. In the first row, from left to right, take hold of the thread near the end that is in the braid, lay it from left to right under the point of the needle, and bring it back again to the right, over the same. Whilst twisting the thread in this way round the needle with the right hand, you must hold the eye of the needle under the left thumb.
When you have laid the thread round draw the needle through the loops; the bars must stand straight and be of uniform length. Were they to slant or be at all uneven, we should consider the work badly done.
In the row that is worked from left to right, the thread must be twisted round the needle, likewise from left to right.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 742. TWENTY-THIRD LACE St.i.tCH.]
TWENTY-THIRD LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 742).--This is begun with the same st.i.tches as fig. 741, worked from right to left. You then take up every loop that comes between the vertical bars with an overcasting st.i.tch, drawing the thread quite out, and tightening it as much as is necessary after each st.i.tch. You cannot take several st.i.tches on the needle at the same time and draw out the thread for them all at once, as this pulls the bars out of their place.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 743. TWENTY-FOURTH LACE St.i.tCH]
TWENTY-FOURTH LACE St.i.tCH (fig. 743).--This is often called the Sorrento st.i.tch.
Every group of three bars of st.i.tches is separated from the next by a long loop, round which the thread is twisted in its backward course. In each of the succeeding rows you place the first bar between the first and second of the preceding row, and the third one in the long loop, so that the pattern advances, as it were in steps.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 744. TWENTY-FIFTH LACE St.i.tCH.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 745. TWENTY-SIXTH LACE St.i.tCH.]