[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 126. NET PATTERN.]
NET INSERTIONS (figs. 127 and 128).--These two, as well as the subsequent patterns, are most of them worked in darning st.i.tch and simple overcasting.
The scallops in fig. 127 are formed of darning st.i.tches, over 4, 3, 2 and 1 mesh, respectively. In the intervening s.p.a.ce, which is five meshes wide, the st.i.tch shown in fig. 118, may be introduced.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 127. NET INSERTION.]
In repeating the pattern, the st.i.tches forming the scallops, must be made to run in the opposite direction. Instead of the thread, simply drawn through the middle, little stars like those described in fig. 134, have a very pretty effect.
In fig. 128, the thread is first carried round one mesh and then on to the next scallop. In the second scallop, which turns the opposite way, the thread is carried once more round the last mesh after the pyramid is completed, and then on, to the next figure.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 128. NET INSERTION.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 129).--This checked pattern is also worked in darning st.i.tch. Carry the thread, as in fig. 125, through every second row of meshes. When the bottom rows are all finished, the upper ones are worked across them in the same way. Here the st.i.tches may, if preferred, be distributed more sparingly. But if they are set wider apart, the s.p.a.ces between should be filled up in some way. Little dots, made of Coton a repriser D.M.C, will answer the purpose best.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 129. NET PATTERN.]
NET INSERTIONS (figs. 130, 131, 132).--These three patterns are specially suitable, for insertions, neck-tie lappets and the like, in the place of crochet, pillow, and other kinds of lace. Both design and st.i.tch are clearly enough represented in the subjoined figure for further explanation to be unnecessary. All three should be worked with rather coa.r.s.e cotton, and Soutache D.M.C[A] (braid) drawn in, produces an excellent effect.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 130. NET INSERTION.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 131. NET INSERTION.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 132. NET INSERTION.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 133).--These delicate little figures can be worked into a close pattern, or can be strewn singly over the surface. The closer you set the st.i.tches, the more clear and distinct the stars will be. The thread must be drawn in to the centre mesh from without, so as to be invisible if possible, and then back again to the outside when the st.i.tches are finished.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 133. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 134).--These flowerets have a very pretty effect, set either singly, or in double or triple rows, and are very useful for filling up gaps or supplementing rows.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 134. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 135).--These star-shaped figures, their longest st.i.tch covering three straight bars and two meshes, the shortest, three diagonal bars and two meshes, may like the above flowerets, be ranged closely together in rows, so that four st.i.tches, two horizontal and two vertical ones, meet in one mesh. Cotton of two colours should be used, in order that the figures may be distinct from each other: white and unbleached are the best, in cases where bright colours would be unsuitable.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 135. NET PATTERN.]
NET INSERTION (fig. 136).--These diamonds make a very pretty grounding either set separately, or in a continuous pattern. The design is slight, nevertheless, when it is worked in coa.r.s.e cotton, the effect is exceedingly handsome, especially if the inside, in addition to the star here given, be enriched with ordinary darning-st.i.tches, worked in fine gold thread, as we have already mentioned.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 136. NET INSERTION.]
NET TRACERY WITH BORDER (fig. 137).--In order to bring out the pattern and the colours, use instead of cotton, Soutache D.M.C, or Lacets surfins D.M.C. Both are to be had in all the colours, given in the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons. The little border can be used in conjunction with any of the preceding patterns, but care must be taken not to let it get twisted in the working. To prevent this, slip a coa.r.s.e needle under the last st.i.tch, and draw the braid flat over it.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 137. NET TRACERY WITH BRAIDS. MATERIALS: Soutache D.M.C No. 2 in Bleu-Indigo 334 and Rouge-Turc 321.]
BROAD NET LACE TRACERY (fig. 138).--The pattern of this pretty lace must first be transferred to stout paper, or oil-cloth. All the leaves and stalks, and the b.u.t.tonholing round the open centres of the flowers, are worked in a pale green, the two bottom flowers in Turkey red, the star-shaped one in blue, the calyx in which the stalks unite, in dark red, and the little bells, in the lightest green.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 138. BROAD NET LACE TRACERY. MATERIALS: Coton a broder D.M.C No. 30, 35 or 40.--COLOURS: Rouge-Turc 321, Rouge-Cardinal 346, Bleu-Indigo 322, Gris-Tilleul 393 and Vert-Pistache 369.]
NET DARNING.--We conclude with some directions for darning net, a valuable art, by means of which many a curious piece of old needlework is preserved. Coa.r.s.e and fine net are all darned in the same way.
Laying the first thread (fig. 139).--Tack the net which is to be darned, closely to the defective part, upon either oil-cloth or coloured paper and cut the edges straight to the thread; Your thread must be of exactly the same size, as that of which the net is made. It takes three rows of st.i.tches to imitate the net ground; in the first place, as shown in fig.
139, cross-threads must be laid from side to side, carried as in darning, a little beyond the edges of the hole and so as to surround each mesh with a slanting st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 139. NET DARNING. LAYING THE FIRST THREAD.]
LAYING THE SECOND THREAD (fig. 140).--Secondly, beginning from one corner, threads are laid diagonally across the first layer. The cross-threads of the foundation are encircled by a st.i.tch, made from right to left, the needle is then carried under the next horizontal bar, and the first layer of threads is overcast with similar st.i.tches.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 140. NET DARNING. LAYING THE SECOND THREAD.]
LAYING THE THIRD THREAD (fig. 141).--Thirdly, threads are carried across the second and first layers. They must start, far enough from the edge, for the second layer of threads to be overcast at the same time, so that there may be no loose threads left on the wrong side. In this third journey, every diagonal thread of the foundation is to be encircled with a st.i.tch, taken upwards from below, the cut edges being strengthened in the same way. Then, to form the little cross in the fabric, the thread must be conducted by means of a second st.i.tch, under the single horizontal thread, outwards, to the next-diagonal thread.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 141. NET DARNING. LAYING THE THIRD THREAD.]
In places where the net is worn, it can be strengthened in the same manner, the st.i.tches being made the way of the stuff.
DAMASK St.i.tCHES.--As a rule the pattern is simply outlined with stem and cord st.i.tch, and the inside s.p.a.ces are left plain. In spite of the time this simple tracing takes to do, the effect is rather poor and scanty. If however, the inside of the leaves and flowers, be filled in with damask st.i.tch, the result is very handsome.
Not only can the following st.i.tches, which are suitable for any linen coa.r.s.e or fine, be used for this kind of embroidery, but most of the net and lace patterns too, and these combined with b.u.t.tonholing and flat st.i.tch produce charming effects.
MATERIALS SUITABLE FOR DAMASK St.i.tCHES.--All the threads and cottons used for net work can also be used for damask st.i.tches, according to the material and the kind of work. We will enumerate them once more: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 8 to 20, Coton a repriser D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70, Coton a broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 50, Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, Coton a broder surfin D.M.C Nos. 100, 120, 150.[A]
This kind of embroidery is generally done with a very coa.r.s.e needle, to press the threads of the stuff closely together and make the light s.p.a.ces between, which appear in many of the following ill.u.s.trations.
FIRST PATTERN (fig. 142).--Carry the needle in a slanting direction over three threads and bring it out, from right to left, under three perpendicular ones, then again slanting, over three threads, from left to right, and out again underneath three horizontal ones, downwards from above. Thus the first st.i.tch lies across, from right to left, the second, lengthways. On the wrong side, the st.i.tch forms a regular succession of steps.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 142. FIRST PATTERN]
SECOND PATTERN (fig. 143).--This is worked exactly in the same manner as fig. 142, only that the second row of st.i.tches touches the first, so that two threads enter and issue from the same hole.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 143. SECOND PATTERN]
THIRD PATTERN (fig. 144).--Though at first sight, this st.i.tch is very like the Holbein or stroke st.i.tch, it is very different in the execution. It is worked in two rows, to and fro; in the first, you make all the vertical st.i.tches side by side in the width of the stuff, drawing your thread very tightly, in the second, coming back, you make the horizontal st.i.tches in a straight line, at right angles to the first st.i.tches. On the wrong side the st.i.tches are crossed; they in thin stuffs, show through, and quite alter the appearance of the right side.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 144. THIRD PATTERN.]
FOURTH, PATTERN (fig. 145).--In the first row, the thread is carried slanting upwards from right to left, over two threads, then downwards under two. Coming back, the st.i.tches must be set the opposite way, so that four threads meet in one hole.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 145. FOURTH PATTERN.]
FIFTH PATTERN (fig. 146).--This is worked like fig. 145, only that the st.i.tches must cover three threads each way. In the second row, you take up one thread on the right and two on the left, to form your st.i.tches.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 146. FIFTH PATTERN.]
SIXTH PATTERN (fig. 147).--Here, the st.i.tches form a chess-board pattern. You begin with a diagonal st.i.tch over two threads and bring your needle up again into the same line it started from. The second st.i.tch covers three threads, the third six, the fourth eight; the next three decrease, successively in length, in the same proportion.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 147. SIXTH PATTERN.]