In a 2-Quart Saucepan, melt the b.u.t.ter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until smooth, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the warm milk, whisking constantly to prevent any lumps from forming. Simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the sauce is thick, smooth, and creamy, about 10 minutes (do not allow the bechamel sauce to boil). Remove from the heat and stir in teaspoon of salt and a pinch each of white pepper and nutmeg. Season the sauce with more salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. (The sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate.) melt the b.u.t.ter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until smooth, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the warm milk, whisking constantly to prevent any lumps from forming. Simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the sauce is thick, smooth, and creamy, about 10 minutes (do not allow the bechamel sauce to boil). Remove from the heat and stir in teaspoon of salt and a pinch each of white pepper and nutmeg. Season the sauce with more salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. (The sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate.)

MUSHROOM RAGu.

If you love mushrooms, this sauce will hit the spot. You could use it as a topping for pastas, meats, and-my favorite-polenta. The secret to a rich, deeply flavorful sauce is to use a variety of mushrooms, preferably the wild varieties. I"m partial to cremini, oyster, and shiitake, but you could also add portobellos, hen-of-the-woods, chanterelles, or any other variety you find. The only ones I"d steer clear of are regular white b.u.t.ton mushrooms. Their mild flavor will get lost amid the stronger tastes of the wild varieties, and their high water content will thin your sauce without providing much flavor.

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS; SERVES 4 OVER A POUND OF PASTA AS A FIRST COURSE.

cup extra-virgin olive oil cup extra-virgin olive oil



1.

large onion, chopped large onion, chopped

2.

garlic cloves, minced garlic cloves, minced

1.

pound mixed wild mushrooms (such as cremini, oyster, stemmed shiitake), chopped pound mixed wild mushrooms (such as cremini, oyster, stemmed shiitake), chopped .

teaspoon salt, plus more to taste teaspoon salt, plus more to taste .

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1.

cup Marsala cup Marsala

2.

cups reduced-sodium chicken broth cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

cup grated Parmesan cheese cup grated Parmesan cheese

5.

fresh basil leaves fresh basil leaves .

cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a Large Skillet, heat the oil over a medium flame. When almost smoking, add the onion and garlic and saute until the onion is tender, about 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms, teaspoon of salt, and teaspoon of pepper. Increase the heat to high and saute until the mushrooms are tender and all the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the Marsala. Return the pan to the heat and simmer until the Marsala evaporates, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth and simmer until the sauce has reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheese, basil, and parsley. Season the ragu with more salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate. Rewarm before using.) heat the oil over a medium flame. When almost smoking, add the onion and garlic and saute until the onion is tender, about 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms, teaspoon of salt, and teaspoon of pepper. Increase the heat to high and saute until the mushrooms are tender and all the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the Marsala. Return the pan to the heat and simmer until the Marsala evaporates, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth and simmer until the sauce has reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheese, basil, and parsley. Season the ragu with more salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate. Rewarm before using.)

BROWN b.u.t.tER SAUCE.

This is the easiest sauce you will ever make and a very tasty one, but then what doesn"t taste good when it"s drenched in b.u.t.ter? This is the perfect topping for stuffed pastas like ravioli, tortellini, and agnolloti.

MAKES CUP; SERVES 4 WITH A POUND OF PASTA AS A FIRST COURSE.

cup (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter cup (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter

6.

fresh sage leaves (torn into pieces) or cup fresh basil leaves fresh sage leaves (torn into pieces) or cup fresh basil leaves .

teaspoon salt, plus more to taste teaspoon salt, plus more to taste .

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

cup grated Parmesan cheese cup grated Parmesan cheese

In a Large, heavy frying pan, melt the b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat until pale golden, about 4 minutes. Add the sage or basil leaves and cook until crisp, about 2 minutes. Stir in teaspoon of salt, teaspoon of pepper, and the nutmeg. Season the sauce with more salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese, and serve. heavy frying pan, melt the b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat until pale golden, about 4 minutes. Add the sage or basil leaves and cook until crisp, about 2 minutes. Stir in teaspoon of salt, teaspoon of pepper, and the nutmeg. Season the sauce with more salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese, and serve.

The sage leaves are more traditional in this sauce, but I love the basil also. If neither of these herbs works for you, feel free to subst.i.tute your favorite herb.

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FRESH FROM THE PANTRY.

Lemon Spaghetti[image] Spaghetti with Garlic, Olive Oil, and Red Pepper Flakes Spaghetti with Garlic, Olive Oil, and Red Pepper Flakes[image] Orecchiette with Toasted Bread Crumbs Orecchiette with Toasted Bread Crumbs

EVERYDAY STUFFED PASTAS.

Cheese Tortellini in Light Broth[image] Cla.s.sic Italian Lasagna Cla.s.sic Italian Lasagna[image] Individual Vegetarian Lasagnas Individual Vegetarian Lasagnas[image] Beef and Cheese Manicotti Beef and Cheese Manicotti[image] Pumpkin Ravioli with Sage and Toasted Hazelnuts Pumpkin Ravioli with Sage and Toasted Hazelnuts[image] Spinach and Mushroom Ravioli Spinach and Mushroom Ravioli[image] Wild Mushroom Ravioli with Basil-Pine Nut Sauce Wild Mushroom Ravioli with Basil-Pine Nut Sauce

EVERYDAY "SAUCELESS" PASTAS Farfalle with Turkey Sausage, Peas, and Mushrooms[image] Orecchiette with Spicy Sausage and Broccoli Rabe Orecchiette with Spicy Sausage and Broccoli Rabe[image] Pasta Primavera Pasta Primavera[image] Ziti with Asparagus, Smoked Mozzarella, and Prosciutto Ziti with Asparagus, Smoked Mozzarella, and Prosciutto[image] Spaghetti with Clams Spaghetti with Clams

EVERYDAY INDULGENCES.

Penne a la Carbonara[image] Fettuccine Alfredo Fettuccine Alfredo[image] Baked Rigatoni with Bechamel Sauce Baked Rigatoni with Bechamel Sauce

LEFTOVER PASTA.

Pizza di Spaghetti[image] Torta di Pasta Torta di Pasta

EVERYDAY POLENTA.

Basic Polenta[image] Fried Polenta Fried Polenta[image] Baked Polenta Baked Polenta[image] Creamy Polenta with Gorgonzola Cheese Creamy Polenta with Gorgonzola Cheese

EVERYDAY RISOTTO.

Basic Risotto[image] Wild Mushroom Risotto with Peas Wild Mushroom Risotto with Peas[image] Risotto al Salto (Rice Cake) Risotto al Salto (Rice Cake)[image] Arancini di Riso Arancini di Riso

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