September 1st.
Continuing about east along the foot of the Mann Ranges for about fifteen miles, came to Mr. Gosse"s bivouac of October 11th, but could find no water; a well that had been dug in the sand was dry. Followed up the gully about a mile, and came to a small spring, and camped. After draining it out, found there was no supply, but were fortunate enough to find some large rock holes with water--no doubt soakages from the rocks--but they were in an almost inaccessible spot, and it was with great difficulty we managed to water the horses. One horse fell and nearly lost his life. Country pa.s.sed over to-day was poorly gra.s.sed, and spinifex patches here and there. Large and recent native encampments seen in two places to-day. Lat.i.tude 26 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds South.
Marked a tree F 82, close to our bivouac in bed of gully.
2nd.
Followed along south side of Mann Ranges over country pretty well gra.s.sed for about sixteen miles, and reached Mr. Gosse"s bivouac of October 12th.
Found a little water in a sandy hole, and a small spring about half a mile higher up the gully. We had to carry the water from the spring in drums, which was slow and hard work. When we had watered half of the horses, Windich came, having found great pools of water in a large rocky gully about a mile west; we therefore packed up again and went over to the water. It was a very rough and rocky gully, and the horses had hard work in getting up to it, but there was abundance when they reached it.
Pools of water, rock bottom; in fact, rock reservoirs, and fed by springs. It was nearly night when we had finished watering. Windich shot four ducks. Found camp to be in lat.i.tude 28 degrees 8 minutes South.
Marked a tree F 83, being 83rd camp from Geraldton.
ANOTHER ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES.
3rd.
Got a late start, owing to the horses rambling. We continued on easterly and reached Day"s Gully, Mr. Gosse"s Number 15 depot. The water was all gone, and we had to proceed. Followed his track along two miles, when Windich and I went in search of water, the party waiting our return.
After searching a gully to the west without success, we went east to a bare granite hill and, pa.s.sing through a gorge, emerged into a small flat, and saw about 100 natives, all sitting down eating kangaroos. As soon as they saw us they all rose and shouted, and many ran towards us with their spears. One spear came close to me, and stuck fast in the ground. Windich and I fired our revolvers at them several times, and chased them up the hill. After this they appeared more friendly, and some came towards us and followed us back towards the party, keeping about 200 yards behind. We reached them and went back to the natives; they were perched all over the hills, more than twenty on one rock. They were friendly now, and about thirty came to us who talked away and seemed very pleased. They were much afraid of the horses, and would not come near them. We made the natives understand we wanted water, and about forty conducted us to a rock hole with nearly fifty gallons in it, which we gave the horses. The natives laughed heartily when they saw us watering the horses, but much more when we hit them to drive them away. They were also delighted that Windich and Pierre were black, and marked about the body, and also at Pierre having his nose bored. They would not come with us further, and pointed towards water westward. We did not follow their direction, and continuing on easterly, camped without water, and only very old dried gra.s.s for our horses. We were obliged to abandon the mare supplied by Mr. John Taylor to-day, together with about 150 pounds of flour, also the pack-saddle. She is very near foaling, and is very weak; she has carried only the empty bags for some time, and has been gradually failing. She is a fine mare, and I am sorry to lose her, but we cannot help it. We have more flour than we require, so I decided to leave 150 pounds, as our horses are not able to carry it easily. We have over 3 hundredweight still, which will be quite sufficient. Tomorrow I intend pushing on to try and reach the spring in the Musgrave Range shown on Mr.
Gosse"s chart. It is about forty miles from here, and I have no doubt the horses will go there, although they are very weak. The natives met to-day were all circ.u.mcised; they had long hair and beards, which were all clotted and in strands. The strands were covered with filth and dirt for six inches from the end, and looked like greased rope; it was as hard as rope, and dangled about their necks, looking most disgustingly filthy.
The men were generally fine-looking fellows. The natives are very numerous in this country, as fires and camps are seen in many places, besides well-beaten tracks. Pierre dropped his powder-flask, and one of them picked it up and gave it to him. They were very friendly and pleased, and I think, after the first surprise was over, only a few were hostile. They were much amused at my watch ticking, and all wanted to put their ears to hear it.
SUFFERINGS OF THE HORSES.
4th.
The horses would not feed last night, and had to be watched. At 4 o"clock we got up and collected them, and got under way by half-past 5 o"clock, following on towards the Musgrave Ranges. The morning was cool, and the horses went along very well. After travelling about twenty miles Padbury and Butcher began to show signs of giving in. We still pushed on, in hope of finding water in Lungley"s Gully; the sun shone out very hot in the afternoon. Pa.s.sed a remarkable high peak, which I named Mount Mary. My brother, Sweeney, and Pierre were behind with the knocked-up horses, trying to get them along. Windich went on Hosken, the only horse that was strong enough, to the north to scour some valleys. Kennedy and I pushed along slowly with the main lot of horses. If we halted a minute, many of the horses lay down, and we had great difficulty in getting them up again. After travelling about thirty-one miles we reached a gully which I supposed was Lungley"s, and I left Kennedy with the horses while I ascended it on foot. I soon saw many emu tracks, and therefore was positive water was a little higher up. Found Windich was about 100 yards in advance of me, having crossed over into the same gully. I soon heard him shout that there was abundance of water, and fired the welcome gun-shots to acquaint the party. Returned, and after lifting up some of the horses that had lain down, and met my brother with the knocked-up ones, we all proceeded up to the water, which we found to be a beautiful spring running down the gully about thirty chains. We were all rejoiced at this good fortune, as we never before wanted water more than at the present time. Mr. Gosse had camped here, his depot Number 16, and I wonder he does not show such a fine spring on his map. We are now in perfect safety, and I will give the horses two days" rest.
5th.
Rested at spring. Windich and Pierre shot three emus; a great many came to water. Being nearly out of meat, we are glad to get them.
6th (Sunday).
Took bearings from a hill about a mile east of camp, from which there was a very extensive view. Far as the eye could reach to south, level plains extended, with low hills rising abruptly out of them here and there; to the west the Deering Hills and Mann Ranges; while to the east the high Musgrave Ranges soon stopped the view. The whole country is level, the ranges rising abruptly out of the plains, and is not like the hilly country in the settled districts of Western Australia. Marked a tree close to the camp F 85, being 85th camp from Geraldton. Found camp to be in lat.i.tude 26 degrees 13 minutes 25 seconds by meridian alt.i.tude of Altair, and longitude about 131 degrees 3 minutes east.
GOSSE"S SPRING.
7th.
Left spring, and steering about east for seven miles along foot of Musgrave Ranges, when we turned North-North-East for four miles, and east one mile to Mr. Gosse"s depot Number 17, found spring in a brook, large white gums in gully; a very fine spring, but not running; any quant.i.ty of water. First-rate feed in gully and on flat. Weather cloudy. Intend resting here to-morrow, as one of our horses is very lame, and there is everything we want.
8th.
Rested at camp. Rained lightly last night, and very stormy. Blew a hurricane towards morning. Rained lightly until noon; more rain than we have had on the whole trip. We have not had a drop of rain since the light shower on the 4th August. Marked a tree F 86, being the 86th camp from Geraldton. Shod two horses. Finished all our meat. We have now only flour enough for the remainder of our journey. As my friend Mr. Gosse did not name this splendid place, I take the liberty of naming it Gosse"s Spring, as that is the name we always gave it in referring to it.
9th.
The horses rambled away last night, and were not collected till late. It was nearly eleven o"clock when we started. We travelled about fourteen miles over fine gra.s.sy country, and camped on a fine flat with a little water in a gully which appears springy; good feed, although chiefly old, all round camp. One of our horses is very lame, and we have a little trouble in getting him along. It rained again last night. Lat.i.tude 26 degrees 15 minutes 23 seconds south.
10th.
Steered North-North-East for five miles, and then North-East and east to Beare"s Creek, Mr. Gosse"s depot Number 18, where we found a most beautiful spring running strong down the gully for half a mile. I wonder he did not mark it permanent water on his map, as it is one of the best springs I have ever seen. Poor place for feed. The horses inclined to ramble. Shot two ducks which were in one of the pools, and two wurrungs, which were very acceptable, being now altogether without meat. Lat.i.tude 26 degrees 9 minutes 50 seconds. Gra.s.sy gorge on our route to-day.
11th.
We got up long before daylight, intending to get an early start, and reach Whittell"s Creek, but two of the horses were missing, and it was after eight o"clock when Windich returned with them. We, however, started, and steering easterly through dense acacia thickets without gra.s.s for about thirty miles, we reached the creek, and found plenty of water by digging in the sand. Rough low granite hills all along our route, but very little feed. Pa.s.sed many clay-pans with water in them.
The country was sandy and stony, and is thickly wooded. Mount Woodroffe bears north 208 degrees east magnetic from our camp, and a remarkable granite hill bore north, which I named Mount Elizabeth. Lat.i.tude 26 degrees 13 minutes south. Marked a tree F 89, being 89th camp from Geraldton.
FIG-TREE GULLY.
12th.
Continued onwards about North-East for ten miles, over saltbush flats with water in clay-pans in places, to the north part of a range, from which I got a view of Mount Connor, which rose abruptly out of the ocean of scrub. Rounding the mount, bore South-East towards Harry"s Reservoir, reaching which we camped. It is at the head of a rocky gully; it is very rough to reach, and no feed within a mile and a half of it. There was plenty of water in the hole, which is about six feet deep. A white gum-tree close to the pool is marked GOS, 19, and I marked under it, on same tree, F 90, being 90th camp from Geraldton. This being such a rough place, and no feed near, I will move on to-morrow towards or to Figtree Gully. Weather dark and cloudy.
13th (Sunday).
Continued on towards Figtree Gully, having to go a long way north in order to get round and through the ranges. Most beautifully-gra.s.sed country all the way; by far the best-gra.s.sed country we have seen for months. After travelling about nineteen miles we found water on some granite rocks, and camped on a very fine gra.s.sy flat. Windich shot a large kangaroo, which was very acceptable.
14th.
About 2 o"clock this afternoon we collected the horses, and travelled on to Figtree Gully about four miles, our horses first finishing all the water on the granite rocks. We got enough at Figtree Gully to satisfy them, although there is not a great supply. There is a small soakage from the rocks; we filled the drums to-night, so as to have sufficient for them in the morning, as the water does not come in quickly. The view to the east is not very interesting. A few low hills, and generally level country--apparently thickly wooded with mulga and acacia.
THE MARRYATT RIVER.
15th.
Got an early start, and steering about east for six miles, crossed the Gum Creek, and followed it along about a mile and a half, when we steered more to the east, until we struck the head of the Marryatt, which we followed down North-East and east, until we reached the salt native well marked on Mr. Gosse"s map. We camped here, and dug out the well, which was very brackish; yet the horses drank it. There was a very poor supply of water, and we kept bailing it out into the drums all night, and managed to get out about sixty gallons. We travelled about thirty miles to-day; our horses were very thirsty, the weather oppressive. I found a small water-hole, with about twenty gallons in it, about one mile north, to which we will take the horses to-morrow morning.
16th.
Went over to the rock hole and gave our horses the water--about one bucket apiece, after which we struck South-East to the river, and found two rock holes with sufficient water in them to satisfy all the horses.
Continued on and reached Mr. Gosse"s camp, where he marks on his map "Water-hole dug." Found it quite dry; but after going a few hundred yards we found a nice clay-pan with water in it, and camped. There has been a little rain here a few weeks ago, and it has not all dried up yet. If it was not for the rain-water we should have much difficulty in getting down this river, as all the old native wells dug in the sand are dry.
17th.
Followed down the Marryatt, and at six miles pa.s.sed a native well, which was quite dry. We continued on, and at about eight miles found a number of rock water-holes, all nearly full of water, about a quarter of a mile south of the river, and camped. Shod some of the horses. Took a set of lunar observations.
18th.
Two of the horses rambled away during the night, and delayed our start.
At eight o"clock we got under way, and followed along the river. The day was excessively hot, and we had to walk in turns. At two o"clock crossed the gum creek shown on Mr. Gosse"s map, and searched for the large clay-pan shown a short distance beyond it; hundreds of natives" tracks seen all along. Towards evening we found a rock water-hole with about two gallons in it, which refreshed us, as we were all very thirsty. Here we were obliged to abandon police-horse Champion, he being completely knocked up; he has had a very bad back for a long time, and has been running loose without any load. We pushed on, and I sent Windich to look for water. We travelled until eight o"clock, when we camped for the night without water. Shortly after we had camped, Windich overtook us, and reported having found some clay-pans about six miles back. After having something to eat I decided to return to the clay-pans, and therefore packed up three of the horses, and let the others go loose, leaving the packs until our return. Reached the water by midnight, and the horses finished it all, and were not half satisfied. I thought there was more, or would not have come back for it. We hobbled them out, and had a few hours" rest.
A PAINFUL MARCH.
19th.
Early this morning we searched the flat for water, and found a rock water-hole with about fifty gallons in it, but could not find any more clay-pans. We therefore gave the horses the fifty gallons, and pushed on towards "Water near Table-Land" shown on Mr. Gosse"s map, about twenty-one miles distant. The day was excessively hot again, and walking was most fatiguing. Men and horses moved along very slowly, but did not give in. Towards noon a hot wind began to blow. Onwards still we pressed, and crossed the large creek coming into the Alberga about two miles from the water. I told the party we were now close, and showed them the low table-land just ahead. Before we reached it we found a clay-hole with water, and gave the horses a good drink, after which we moved on a mile and camped at Mr. Gosse"s depot Number 20, where we got plenty of water by digging in the sandy bed of the river. I was very glad to reach here, for the horses were getting very weary, and Sweeney was also done up, and looked very ill and swollen up about the head. The walking was most hara.s.sing, for, besides the ground being soft, the sun was overpowering, and most excessively hot. We are now in safety again, and to-morrow being Sunday we will rest.
20th (Sunday).
Rested to-day. Windich shot an emu. Worked out lunar observations. Marked a tree F 97, being 97th camp from Geraldton. Lat.i.tude 26 degrees 44 minutes 19 seconds, longitude about 133 degrees 47 minutes East.
21st.
Continued down the Alberga about South-East for about twenty miles, over sandy country thickly wooded with mulga and acacia, to Mr. Gosse"s bivouac of December 1st, but there was scarcely any water by digging. We therefore pushed on and found a native well, from which, by digging out about five feet, we procured abundance of water. Sweeney still very unwell, unable to walk; others walking in turns. Distance twenty-five miles.
22nd.
The horses rambled back on the tracks about three miles, and it was eight o"clock before we got started. We followed down the Alberga over stony plains, poorly gra.s.sed and thickly wooded, for about eighteen miles.
Found sufficient water by digging in the sand; there was only a very poor supply, and it took us a good while to water all the horses. The river bed is more than a quarter of a mile wide and very shallow, and spreads out over the plains for many miles in heavy winters.
23rd.
Watering the horses delayed us a little this morning, as there was a very poor supply coming into the well. We followed down the river, and after travelling about nine miles heard a native shouting, and soon saw him running after us. He was quite friendly, but could not speak any English; he came along with us, and shortly afterwards we found a native well with sufficient water by digging, then camped, as our horses were very weak, and required a rest. We finished all our tea and sugar to-day, and have now only flour left; we will therefore have bread and water for the next week, until we reach the Peake. The native ate heartily of damper given to him, and remained all day, and slept at our camp. Distance ten miles.
NEAR THE END OF THE JOURNEY.
24th.
Travelled down river, the native still accompanying us, and at about six miles met a very old native, and a woman and a little girl. They were quite friendly, and showed us water; and the woman and girl came with us to Appatinna, Mr. Gosse"s depot 21, where we camped at a fine pool of water under right bank of river. Windich shot three emus that were coming to the water, and we all had plenty of them to eat. The natives were very pleased, and went back and brought up the old man and another woman and child. There were now six with us. They have seen the telegraph line, as can be seen by signs they make, but they cannot speak English.
25th.
The horses rambled off miles, and it was nearly ten o"clock before we got under way. There was no feed at all for them. We followed down the Alberga for about fifteen miles, about east generally, and camped, with very little old dried-up gra.s.s for our horses. About half an hour after we left Appatinna this morning we had a very heavy shower of rain, and, although it only lasted about a quarter of an hour, it literally flooded the whole country, making it boggy. It was the heaviest thunderstorm I have ever seen. We shall have no difficulty in procuring water now all the way to the telegraph line, which is not more than forty miles from here. The natives stayed at Appatinna, as they had too much emu to leave.