"R"s for the "Roll-call""--a terrible f.a.g-- "Fetching six yards of bread, done up in a bag!"
The other meals were provided by the Belgians and supplemented to a great extent by us. I am quite convinced we often ate good old horse.
One day, when prowling round the shops to get something fresh for the night staff"s supper, I went into a butcher"s. The good lady came forward to ask me what I wished. I told her; and she smiled agreeably, saying, "Impossible, Mademoiselle, since long time we have only horse here for sale!" I got out of that shop with speed.
The orderlies on night duty, on the surgical side, were a lazy lot and slept the whole night through, more often than not on the floor of the kitchen. One night the incomparable "Jefke," who was worse than most, was fast asleep in a dark spot near the big stove, when I went to get some hot water. He was practically invisible, so I narrowly missed stepping on his head, and, as it was, collapsed over him, breaking the tea-pot. Cicely, the ever witty, quickly parodied one of the "Ruthless Rhymes," and said:--
"Pat who trod on Jefke"s face (He was fast asleep, so let her,) Put the pieces back in place, Saying, "Don"t you think he looks _much_ better"?"
(I can"t vouch for the truth of the last line.)
One day when up at the front we attended part of a concert given by the Observation Balloon Section in a barn, candles stuck in bottles the only illuminations; we were however obliged to leave early to go on to the trenches. Outside in the moonlight, which was almost as light as day, we found the men busy sharpening their bayonets.
Another day up at Bourbourg, where we had gone for a ride, on a precious afternoon off, we saw the first camouflaged field hospital run by Millicent, d.u.c.h.ess of Sutherland, for the Belgians--the tents were weird and wonderful to behold, and certainly defied detection from a distance.
Heasy and I were walking down the _Rue_ one afternoon, which was the Bond Street of this town, when the private detective aforementioned came up and asked to see our identification cards. These we were always supposed to carry about with us wherever we went. Besides the hospital stamp and several others, it contained a pa.s.sport photo and signature.
Of course we had left them in another pocket, and in spite of protestations on our part we were requested to proceed to the citadel or return to hospital to be identified. To our mortification we were followed at a few yards by the detective and a soldier! Never have I felt such an inclination to take to my heels. As luck would have it, tea was in progress in the top room, and they all came down _en ma.s.se_ to see the two "spies." The only comfort we got, as they all talked and laughed at our expense, was to hear one of the detectives softly murmuring to himself, "Has anyone heard of the Suffragette movement here?"
We learnt later that Boche spies disguised in our uniform had been seen in the vicinity of the trenches. That the Boche took an interest in our Corps we knew, for, in pre-war days, we had continually received applications from German girls who wished to become members. Needless to say they were never accepted.
The first English troops began to filter into the town about this time, and important "red hats" with bra.s.sards bearing the device "L. of C."
walked about the place as if indeed they had bought every stone.
Great were our surmises as to what "L. of C." actually stood for, one suggestion being "Lords of Creation," and another, "Lords of Calais"! It was comparatively disappointing to find out it only stood for "Lines of Communication."
English people have a strange manner of treating their compatriots when they meet in a foreign country. You would imagine that under the circ.u.mstances they would waive ceremony and greet one another in pa.s.sing, but no, such is not the case. If they happen to pa.s.s in the same street they either look haughtily at each other, with apparently the utmost dislike, or else they gaze ahead with unseeing eyes.
We rather resented this "invasion," as we called it, and felt we could no longer flit freely across the Place d"Armes in caps and ap.r.o.ns as heretofore.
In June of 1915, my first leave, after six months" work, was due.
Instead of going to England I went to friends in Paris. The journey was an adventure in itself and took fourteen hours, a distance that in peace time takes four or five. We stopped at every station and very often in between. When this occurred, heads appeared at every window to find out the reason. _"Qu" est ce qu"il y"a?"_ everyone cried at once. It was invariably either that a troop train was pa.s.sing up the line and we must wait for it to go by, or else part of the engine had fallen off. In the case of the former, the train was looked for with breathless interest and handkerchiefs waved frantically, to be used later to wipe away a furtive tear for those _brave poilus_ or "Tommees" who were going to fight for _la belle France_ and might never return.
If it was the engine that collapsed, the pa.s.sengers, with a resigned expression, returned to their seats, saying placidly: "_C"est la guerre, que voulez-vous_," and no one grumbled or made any other comment. With a grunt and a snort we moved on again, only to stop a little further up the line. I came to the conclusion that that rotten engine must be tied together with string. No one seemed to mind or worry. "He will arrive" they said optimistically, and talked of other things. At every station fascinating-looking _infirmieres_ from the French Red Cross, clad in white from top to toe, stepped into the carriage jingling little white tin boxes. "_Messieurs, Mesdames, pour les blesses, s"il vous plait_,"[8] they begged, and everyone fumbled without a murmur in their pockets. I began with 5 francs, but by the time I"d reached Paris I was giving ha" pennies.
At Amiens a dainty Parisienne stepped into the compartment. She was clad in a navy blue _tailleur_ with a very smart pair of high navy blue kid boots and small navy blue silk hat. The other occupants of the carriage consisted of a well-to-do old gentleman in mufti, who, I decided, was a _commercant de vin_, and two French officers, very spick and span, obviously going on leave. _La pet.i.te dame bien mise_, as I christened her, sat in the opposite corner to me, and the following conversation took place. I give it in English to save translation:
After a little general conversation between the officers and the old _commercant_ the latter suddenly burst out with:--"Ha, what I would like well to know is, do the Scotch soldiers wear the _pantalons_ or do they not?" Everyone became instantly alert. I could see _la pet.i.te dame bien mise_ was dying to say something. The two French officers addressed shrugged their shoulders expressive of ignorance in the matter. After further discussion, unable to contain herself any longer, _la pet.i.te dame_ leant forward and addressing herself to the _commercant_, said, "Monsieur, I a.s.sure you that they do _not_!"
The whole carriage "sat up and took notice," and the old _commercant_, shaking his finger at her said:
"Madame, if you will permit me to ask, that is, if it is not indiscreet, how is it that you are in a position to know?"
The officers were enjoying themselves immensely. _La pet.i.te dame_ hastened to explain. "Monsieur, it is that my window at Amiens she overlooks the ground where these Scotch ones play the football, and then a good little puff of wind and one sees, but of course," she concluded virtuously, "I have not regarded, Monsieur."
They all roared delightedly, and the old _commercant_ said something to the effect of not believing a word. "Be quiet, Monsieur, I pray of you,"
she entreated, "there is an English young girl in the corner and she will of a certainty be shocked." "_Bah, non_," replied the old _commercant_, "the English never understand much of any language but their own" (I hid discreetly behind my paper).
As we neared Paris there was another stop before the train went over the temporary bridge that had been erected over the Oise. We could still see the other that had been blown up by the French in order to stem the German advance on Paris in August 1914. This shattered bridge brought it home to me how very near to Paris the Boche had been.
As I stepped out of the Gare du Nord all the people were looking skywards at two Taubes which had just dropped several bombs. Some welcome, I thought to myself!
Paris in War time at that period (June, 1915) wore rather the appearance of a deserted city. Every third shop had notices on the doors to the effect that the owners were absent at the war. Others were being run by the old fathers and mothers long since retired, who had come up from the country to "carry on." My friend told me that when she had returned to Paris in haste from the country, at the beginning of the war, there was not a taxi available, as they were all being used to rush the soldiers out to the battle of the Marne. Fancy taxi-ing to a battlefield!
The Parisians were very interested to see a girl dressed in khaki, and discussed each item of my uniform in the Metro quite loudly, evidently under the same impression as the old _commercant_! My field boots took their fancy most. _"Mon Dieu!"_ they would exclaim. "Look then, she wears the big boots like a man. It is _chic_ that, hein?"
In one place, an old curiosity shop in the Quartier St. Germain, the woman was so thrilled to hear I was an _infirmiere_ she insisted on me keeping an old Roman lamp I was looking at as a souvenir, because her mother had been one in 1870. War has its compensations.
I also discovered a Monsieur Jollivet at Neuilly, a job-master who had a few horses left, among them a little English mare which I rode. We went in the Bois nearly every morning and sometimes along the race course at Longchamps, the latter very overgrown. "Ah, Mademoiselle," he would exclaim, "if it was only in the ordinary times, how different would all this look, and how Mademoiselle would amuse herself at the races!"
One day walking along near the "Observatoire" an old nun stopped me, and in broken English asked how the war was progressing. (The people in the shops did too, as if I had come straight from G.H.Q.!) She then went on to tell me that she was Scotch, but had never been home for thirty-five years! I could hardly believe it, as she talked English just as a Frenchwoman might. She knew nothing at all as to the true position of affairs, and asked me to come in to the Convent to tea one day, which I did.
They all cl.u.s.tered round me when I went, asking if I had met their relation so-and-so, who was fighting at the front. They were frightfully disappointed when I said "No, I had not."
I went to their little chapel afterwards, and later on, the Reverend Mother, who was so old she had to be supported on each side by two nuns, came to a window and gave me her blessing. My Scotch friend before I left pressed a little oxidized silver medal of the Virgin into my hand, which she a.s.sured me would keep me in safety. I treasured it after that as a sort of charm and always had it with me.
A few days later I was introduced to Warneford, V.C., the man who had brought down the first Zeppelin. He had just come to Paris to receive the _Legion d"Honneur_ and the _Croix de Guerre_, and was being feted and spoilt by everybody. He promised towards the end of the week, when he had worked off some of his engagements, to take me up--strictly against all rules of course--for a short flight. I met him on the Monday, I think, and on the Wednesday he crashed while making a trial flight, and died after from his injuries, in hospital. It seemed impossible to believe when first I heard of it--he was so full of life and high spirits.
We went to Versailles one day. The loneliness and general air of desertion that overhang the place seemed more intensified by the war than ever. The gra.s.s had grown very long, the air was sultry, and not a ripple stirred the calm surface of the lake. It seemed somehow very like the Palace of a Sleeping Beauty. I wondered if the ghost of Marie Antoinette ever revisited the Trianon or flitted up and down the wooden steps of the miniature farm where she had played at being a dairymaid?
As we wended our way back in the evening, the incessant croaking of the frogs in the big lake was the only sound that broke the stillness. There was something sinister about it as if they were croaking "We are the only creatures who now live in this beautiful place, and it is we, with our ugly voices and bodies, who have triumphed over the beautiful vain ladies who threw pebbles at us long ago from the terraces."--We turned away, and the croaking seemed to become more triumphant and echoed in our ears long after we had left the vicinity.
At night, in Paris, aeroplanes flew round and round the city on scout duty switching on lights at intervals that made them look like travelling stars. They often woke one up, and the noise of the engines was so loud it seemed sometimes as if they must fly straight through one"s window. I used to love to get up early and go down to "Les Halles," the French Covent Garden, and come back with literally armfuls of roses of all shades of delicate pink, white, and cream. Tante Rose (the only name I ever knew her by) was a widow, and the aunt of my friend. She was one of the _vieille n.o.blesse_ and had a charming house in Pa.s.sy, and was as interesting to listen to as a book. She asked me one day if I would care to go with her to a Memorial Service at the _Sacre-Coeur_. Looking out of her windows we could see the church dominating Paris from the heights of Montmartre, the mosque-like appearance of its architecture gleaming white against the sky.
At that moment the dying rays of the sun lit up the golden cross surmounting it, and presently the whole building became a delicate rose pink and seemed almost to float above the city, all blue in the haze of the evening below. It was wonderful, and a picture I shall always carry in my mind. I replied I would love to go, and on the following day we toiled up the dazzling white steps. The service was, I think, the most impressive I have ever attended. Crowds flocked to it, all or nearly all in that uniform of deep-mourning incomparably _chic_, incomparably French, and gaining daily in popularity. Long before the service began the place was packed to suffocation. Tante Rose looked proudly round and whispered to me, "Ah, my little one, you see here those who have given their all for France." Indeed it seemed so on looking round at those white-faced women; and how I wished that _some_ of the people in England, who had not been touched by the war, or who at that time (June, 1915) hardly realized there even was one, could have been present.
During another visit to Tante Rose"s I heard the following story from an _infirmiere_. A wounded German was brought to one of the French hospitals. In the bed adjoining lay a Zouave who had had his leg amputated. The Boche asked for a drink of hot water, the hottest obtainable. When the Nurse brought it to him he took the gla.s.s, and without a word threw the scalding contents in her face! The Zouave who had witnessed this brutal act, with a snarl of rage, leapt from his bed on to the German"s and throttled him to death there and then. The other _blesses_ sat up in bed and cheered. "It is thus," she continued calmly, "that our brave soldiers avenge us from these brutes." I looked at her as she sat there so dainty in her white uniform, quite undismayed by what had taken place. It was just another of those little incidents that go to show the spirit of the French nation.
Some American friends of mine took me over their hospital for French soldiers at Neuilly. It was most beautifully equipped from top to bottom, and I was especially interested in the dental department where they fitted men with false jaws, etc. Every comfort was provided, and some of the patients were lying out on balconies under large umbrellas, smiling happily at all who pa.s.sed. I sighed when I thought of the makeshifts we had _la bas_ at Lamarck.
I also went to a sort of review held in the Bois of an _Ambulance Volant_ (ambulance unit to accompany a Battalion), given and driven by Americans. They also had a field operating theatre. These drivers were all voluntary workers, and were Yale and Harvard men who had come over to see what the "show" was really like. Some of them later joined the French Army, and one the famous "Foreign Legion," and others went back to the U.S.A. to make sh.e.l.ls.
It was very interesting to hear about the "Foreign Legion." In peace time most of the people who join it are either fleeing from justice, or they have no more interest in life and don"t care what becomes of them.
It is composed of dare-devils of all nationalities, and the discipline is of the severest. They are therefore among the most fearless fighters in the world, and always put in a tight place on the French front. There is one man at the enlisting depot[9] who is a wonderful being, and can size up a new recruit at a glance. He is known as "Le Sphinx." You must give him your real name and reason for joining the Legion, and in exchange he gives you a number by which henceforth you are known. He knows the secrets of all the Legion, and they are never divulged to a living soul; he never forgets, nor do they ever pa.s.s his lips. One of the most cherished souvenirs I have is a plain bra.s.s b.u.t.ton with the inscription "Legion etrangere" printed round it in raised letters.
As early as June, 1915, the French were showing what relics they had brought back from the battlefields. No better place than the "Invalides," with Napoleon"s tomb towering above, could have been chosen for their display. Part of the courtyard was taken up by captured guns, and in two separate corners a "Taube," and a German scout machine, with black crosses on their wings, were tethered like captured birds. There the widows, leading their little sons by the hand, came dry-eyed to show young France what their fathers had died in capturing for the glory of _La Patrie_.
"Dost thou know, Maman," I heard one mite saying, "I would like well to mount astride that cannon there," indicating a huge 7.4, but the woman only smiled the saddest smile I have ever seen, and drew him over to gaze at the silvery remains of the Zeppelin that had been brought down on the Marne.
The rooms leading off the corridors above were all filled with souvenirs and helmets, and in another, the captured flags of some of the most famous Prussian Regiments were spread out in all their glory of gold and silver embroideries and ta.s.sels.
We went on to see Napoleon"s tomb, which made an impression on me which I shall never forget. The sun was just in the right quarter. As we entered the building, the ante-room seemed purposely darkened to form the most complete contrast with the inner; where the sun, streaming through the wonderful gla.s.s windows, shone with a steady shaft of blue light, almost ethereal in colouring, down into the tomb where the great Emperor slept.
CHAPTER X
CONCERNING A CONCERT, CANTEEN WORK, HOUSEKEEPING, THE ENGLISH CONVOY, AND GOOD-BYE LAMARCK