The head of the lake is more readily reached by the daily launch service from Waterton Village, or over trail from Many Glacier by Crossley Lake Camp, or by Granite Park and Flattop Mountain. A scenic trail leads to Rainbow Falls and up Olson Valley to Browns Pa.s.s, Bowman Lake, Hole-in-the-Wall Falls, Boulder Pa.s.s, and Kintla Lake in the northwest corner of the park. There are no hotel or camp accommodations at Bowman or Kintla Lakes.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Grant photo._ HORSEBACK PARTY ON BOULDER Pa.s.s]
Game is varied and abundant at Waterton Lake. Moose are sometimes seen in the swampy lakes along Upper Waterton River. Later in the season, bull elk are heard bugling their challenge through the night. Deer are seen both at Waterton Lake Village and Goathaunt Camp. Sheep and goats live on neighboring slopes. One does not have to leave the trail to see evidence of the work of the beaver. The trail down Waterton Valley has had to be relocated from time to time, as these industrious workers flooded the right-of-way. A colony lives at the mouth of the creek opposite Goathaunt Camp. Otters have been seen in the lakes in the evening. Marten have bobbed up irregularly at the ranger station.
Bird life is abundant in this district, because of the variety of cover. Waterfowl are frequently seen on the lake. A pair of ospreys nest near the mouth of Olson Creek. Pine grosbeaks, warblers, vireos, kinglets, and smaller birds abound in the hawthorne and cottonwood trees, and in the alder thickets.
FLATTOP MOUNTAIN AND GRANITE PARK
Glacier Park has within its boundary two parallel mountain ranges.
The eastern, or front range, extends from the Canadian boundary almost without a break to New Mexico. The western, or Livingston Range, rises at the head of Lake McDonald, becomes the front range beyond the international line, and runs northwestward to Alaska. Between these two ranges in the center of the park is a broad swell which carries the Continental Divide from one to the other. This is Flattop Mountain, whose groves of trees are open and parklike, wholly unlike the dense forests of the lowlands with which every park visitor is well acquainted.
A trail leads south from Waterton over Flattop to the tent camp called "Fifty Mountain" and to Granite Park, where a comfortable high-mountain chalet is located. Here is exposed a great ma.s.s of lava, which once welled up from the interior of the earth and spread over the region which was then the bottom of a sea. The chalets command a fine view of the majestic grouping of mountains around Logan Pa.s.s, of the n.o.ble summits of the Livingston Range, and of systems far to the south and west of the park. Extending in the near foreground are gentle slopes covered with spa.r.s.e clumps of stunted vegetation. In early July open s.p.a.ces are gold-carpeted with glacier lillies and bizarrely streaked with lingering snow patches. Beyond are the deep, heavy forests of Upper McDonald Valley.
The chalets may also be reached from Sun Camp and Logan Pa.s.s over a trail along the Garden Wall, from the highway 2 miles above the western switchback by a 4-mile trail, from Avalanche Camp and Lake McDonald over the McDonald Valley trail, and from Many Glacier by the beautiful trail over Swiftcurrent Pa.s.s. A short distance from the chalets a spur from the trail to the Waterton Lake leads to Ahern Pa.s.s, from which there is an unexcelled view of Ahern Glacier, Mount Merritt, Helen and Elizabeth Lakes, and the South Fork of the Belly River. This spur is only a mile from the chalets. At Fifty Mountain Camp, half-way between Granite Park and Waterton, a second spur, a quarter of a mile long, takes one above Flattop Mountain to the summit of the knife-edge. From here there is a fine panorama of Mount Cleveland, Sue Lake, and Middle Fork of Belly River.
A foot trail 1 mile long leads from the Granite Park chalet to the summit of Swiftcurrent Mountain upon which a fire lookout is located.
For the small amount of effort required to make this ascent of 1,000 feet, no more liberal reward of mountain scenery could be possible.
Another foot trail leads from the chalets to the rim of the Garden Wall, from which there are splendid views of Grinnell Glacier and the Swiftcurrent region.
Animal life is varied and easily studied at Granite Park. Bear and deer are common in this section. Mountain goats are frequently seen above Flattop Mountain or near Ahern Pa.s.s. Mountain sheep graze on the slopes of the Garden Wall. Ptarmigan should be looked for, especially above Swiftcurrent Pa.s.s.
Granite Park is a paradise for lovers of alpine flowers. On the Garden Wall, the connoisseur should seek for the rare, heavenly blue alpine columbine. Here are expanses of dryads, globe flowers, alpine firewood, and a wealth of others. Early July is the best time for floral beauty.
LOGAN Pa.s.s
Logan Pa.s.s lies between the headwaters of Logan and Reynolds Creeks. It crosses the Continental Divide and carries the Going-to-the-Sun Highway from Lake McDonald to Upper St. Mary Lake and the trail from Sun Camp to Granite Park.
Though there are no overnight stopping places on the pa.s.s, its accessibility by automobile makes it a starting place for several delightful walks, chiefly to Hidden Lake, which occupies a basin only recently evacuated by ice, and tiny Clements Glacier, which sends its water to both the Arctic and Pacific Oceans, and which has been termed "Museum Glacier" because it encompa.s.ses in its few hundred acres of surficial area all of the princ.i.p.al features of a major glacier.
Ranger-naturalist services, including short field trips, are available daily throughout summer on the pa.s.s.
AVALANCHE CAMP
Avalanche auto camp is located in a grove of cedars and cottonwoods on a picturesque flat at the mouth of Avalanche Creek. It is equipped with modern toilets, showers, and laundry, but has no stores or gasoline station. A Government ranger naturalist and a camp tender serve the camp, which is on Going-to-the-Sun Highway.
Near the upper end of the camp, Avalanche Creek has cut a deep, narrow gorge through brilliant red argillite. It is filled with potholes scoured out by stones swirled in the foaming torrent. Drooping hemlocks, festooned with goatsbeard lichen, keep the spot in cool, somber gloom even on the hottest midday. This gorge is the home of the water ouzel, which is often seen flying back and forth in the spray.
From the gorge, a self-guiding trail leads 2 miles to Avalanche Basin, a semicircular amphitheater with walls over 2,000 feet high over which plunge a half dozen snowy waterfalls. A dense forest and calm lake repose on the floor of the cirque. Fishing is good in the lake. The narrow canyon through which the trail leads from the camp offers fine views of Heaven"s Peak, Mount Cannon, Bearhat Mountain, Gunsight Mountain with the cirque bearing Sperry Glacier, and the canyon in which Hidden Lake reposes. In the early season the walls of the basin and canyon are draped with countless waterfalls. The sides of Cannon and Bearhat offer one of the most opportune places for seeing mountain goats. In late season huckleberries are abundant.
A ranger naturalist conducts an entertainment every evening in the campfire circle in the auto camp.
LAKE MCDONALD
Lake McDonald is the largest lake in the park, being 10 miles long and a mile wide. Its sh.o.r.es are heavily forested with cedar, hemlock, white pine, and larch. At its head, impressive, rocky summits rise to elevations 6,000 feet above its waters. The Going-to-the-Sun Highway runs along its southeastern sh.o.r.e. Its outlet is 2 miles above Belton station.
Lake McDonald Hotel is on the highway near the upper end of the lake.
It has a store for general supplies, a gasoline station, curio shop, and all modern conveniences. Its dining room, facing the lake, is one of the most appropriate and charming in the park. Its lobby is filled with well-mounted animals and birds of the region. It is the focal point for trails to Sperry Chalet and Gunsight Pa.s.s, Upper McDonald Valley, the summit of Mount Brown, and Arrow Lake. There is good fishing in Arrow and Snyder Lakes.
Private cabin camps are located at the head and foot of the lake. A general store and gasoline filling station are located at the foot of the lake. A well-equipped public auto campground is at Sprague Creek, near Lake McDonald Hotel.
Ranger-naturalist services are available at the hotel. Lectures on popular natural history are delivered each evening in the hotel lobby and at the Sprague Creek campfire circle. A cut wild-flower exhibit is also placed in the hotel. Self-guiding trails lead to Fish and Johns Lakes, short distances from the hotel.
SPERRY CHALETS
Sperry Chalets are located in a picturesque high-mountain cirque, with precipitous, highly colored Edwards, Gunsight, and Lincoln Peaks hemming it in on three sides. It is reached by trail only from Lake McDonald and from Sun Camp via Gunsight and Lincoln Pa.s.ses.
Mountain climbing, exploring Sperry Glacier, fishing in nearby Lake Ellen Wilson, and meeting mountain goats are the chief diversions of this entrancing spot, located at timberline. During late afternoons goats are to be seen perched against the cirque walls. Practically every evening they start down for the chalets, to reach there after midnight and fill expectant visitors with joy. Besides these, deer, marmots, conies, and Clark nutcrackers and other wildlife are abundant.
BELTON
Belton, on the Great Northern Railway, is the entrance to the west side of the park. It has stores, hotel, chalet, and a cabin camp to accommodate the visitor.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Hileman photo._ ROCKY MOUNTAIN GOAT]
WHAT TO DO AND SEE
FISHING
The waters of Glacier National Park abound in fish. All popular species of trout have been planted. They have thrived owing to the abundant natural fish foods and the nearly constant temperature of the waters the year around. Cutthroat, eastern brook, and rainbow, are the most abundant. Fly fishing is the greatest sport, but spinners and the ever-abundant gra.s.shopper may be used successfully by those not skilled in the use of the fly. In the larger lakes a Mackinaw or Dolly Varden weighing 40 pounds is a possibility. All fishing must be in conformity with the park regulations.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Hileman photo._ FISHING THE RAPIDS]
_Two Medicine Chalets._--Two Medicine Lake has become well known for its eastern brook and rainbow trout. Good fishing is also found in the Two Medicine River below Trick Falls. This lake and stream are probably better stocked than any in the park, because of the proximity to the hatchery at the eastern entrance.
_Cut Bank Chalets._--This camp is located on the banks of the North Fork of Cut Bank Creek, which may be fished both ways from the camp for a distance of from 3 to 5 miles. Cutthroat and eastern brook inhabit this section, and the fisherman who takes the center of the stream and fishes with skill is sure of a well-filled creel. The South Fork at Cut Bank Creek is a wild little stream, well stocked, but little known.
_St. Mary Chalets._--St. Mary Lake is the home of the Mackinaw trout, as well as cutthroat and rainbow trout. Numerous streams empty into this lake from which a goodly toll may be taken with fly or spinner.
Red Eagle Lake, easily reached by trail from St. Mary Chalets, is one of the best fishing spots in the park. There is also good fishing in Red Eagle Creek.
_Going-to-the-Sun Chalets._--The lakes in Roes Creek Basin will furnish excellent sport. For the large Mackinaw trout the upper end of St. Mary Lake is a good place. Gunsight Lake, 9 miles distant, is well stocked with rainbow trout.
_Many Glacier Hotel._--Lake Sherburne contains pike, Lake Superior whitefish, and rainbow and cutthroat trout. Pike, and often a cutthroat, are readily taken with the troll. Swiftcurrent River affords good stream fishing for the fly caster. Swiftcurrent, Grinnell, Josephine, and Ptarmigan Lakes are famous for cutthroat, eastern brook, and rainbow trout. The small lakes along the Swiftcurrent Pa.s.s Trail abound in eastern brook and rainbow trout. Cracker Lake is always ready to fill the creel with a small black-spotted trout.
The North and South Forks of Kennedy Creek are excellent for fishing.
Cutthroats are abundant in them and in Slide Lake. Lower Kennedy Lake on the South Fork abounds in grayling.
_Lake McDonald Hotel._--Fishing in Lake McDonald is good but there is unusually good trout fishing in Fish Lake (2 miles), Avalanche Lake (9 miles), Snyder Lake (5 miles), and Lincoln Lake (11 miles). Trout Lake (7 miles) and Arrow Lake (11 miles), as well as McDonald Creek, also furnish a good day"s sport.