Here, fain would we look back or linger where we are, for many charms yet surround us; true, indeed, a fairer vision is receding from us,--brighter skies and a greener earth; but when we look around, and see the beauteous hues which yet garnish the woods, and the few blossoms that still faintly smile upon their stalks, we feel a sympathy with the melancholy cast of the season; and almost fancy that neither the cheerful visions of the spring, the glowing luxuriance of summer, nor the mellow tints of autumn, equal the sombre charm of the closing scene. Surely none speak to the heart with such impressive language, none so full of calm thoughts, sober recollections, and gentle feelings. Who that ever trod this sylvan valley, rustling beneath his feet the heaps of leaves that once danced greenly and gaily on the outstretched bows, but dwells on abject prospects, blighted hopes, joys, loves, affections cherished and buried? Who that hears amid this stillness, the drop of a leaf amid its companions, but is feelingly and touchingly reminded that all natural things decay. He feels that the holiday of youth is past into summer--summer into autumn, and that he too must soon drop as noiseless and as silent as that leaf before him in the winter of his life. But let me for a moment part from this moral strain, and walk in fellow companionship to yonder mound and beat the leaves in our way, for there are many lovely pictures which linger before the eye as we wade through them in the stillness of an October noon; such as the deep red of some, the ashen hue of others, with all the intermediate tints of orange and yellow, and the brown duskier hues that deepen into nothingness and decay. The dark shining green of the holly, with its scarlet berries in connexion with the adjoining laurel, bears to the poetic feeling amalgamized ideas of youth and age,--the berry bearing tribe of bushes bending to the earth with the weight of their neglected riches, and the dark sloe with its h.o.a.r-frost film, all tend to form a fit subject for the pen of the immortal Gilpin in his Northern Tints of Forest Scenery, in which peculiar strain he is the most exalted of all living and dead writers--
"The little red leaf, the last of its clan, That dances as long as dance it can, Hanging so light and hanging so high On the top-most twig that looks up to the sky."
Now we have emerged from the trees, let me point to yonder water-mill, that lies immediately under the cotil. How beautifully plays the feathery foam over the wheel, and how it dances and leaps over the little one which so swiftly runs round! In October everything is clear and distinct; there is none of that raw mistiness which in summer clogs the distant prospect, nor any of that dancing vapour which a mid-day sun exhales from the heated earth. We can almost count the leaves of the trees, and as the slanting sun-beam thwarts the level of the meadow, high-taper and fox-glove rise conspicuously into view. It is in October that a boundless prospect is enjoyed to the full, and all that the horizon embraces is distinctly laid before us. Oft do I recollect from Le Hocquette, watching with intense interest the fiery setting of the evening sun, which, as it dipped the horizon sent up rich spires of rays, and as it were in a flood of heavenly light gilding it with an eternal glory, while the heavy gloom of Noirmont point was distinct even to a mushroom on the outline, all contributing to render the scene gorgeous in the extreme.
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Connected with this valley, and intersected with a variety of hill and dale, is Woodlands, perhaps the most beautiful estate in the island. The building is somewhat irregular, and unfortunately situated in the lowland that causes dampness, and enforces the idea of gloom. This, however, is amply compensated in the diversity of the scenery, which comprehends a tasteful display of wood, garden, and upland; altogether forming a spot of true monastic seclusion, which the visitor can scarce fail to identify. The intersectional valleys are so screened from the winds, that the magnolia grandiflora is a mere ornamental shrub in the adjoining woods, and attains the extraordinary height of forty feet, and blossoms every year. A species of syringa, from Constantinople, with long pendant flowers, and the spice plant, with many others equally rare, seem to invigorate as though in their native soil. It is here the excellent seedling apple called "la Pomme Susanne," or Mollet Pippin was raised, named from a former proprietor, who left an orchard rich with a variety of sorts.
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On this estate, in a sequestered little nook, half hid by the waving umbrage of the beech, is the Domaillerie cottage, remarkable as the only place where the Guernsey Lily grows wild, the leaves of which, in the month of September may be seen sprinkled as if with original gold dust, and at times there are from seven to nine bells on each stalk. This cottage is also the subject of a legend which represents it as once being inhabited by an extraordinary old woman, of a tall stooping figure and fierce black eyes. Until of late years it has been the cause of some superst.i.tious speculation among the neighbouring peasantry, and a large stone, hid under piles of deep green foliage, still marks the spot where she expired. At present, the cottage is converted into a lumber-house, and a gothic window in the gable, gives it the appearance of an old catholic chapel.
At La.s.sy is a comfortable little inn, kept by one Alexander, who has got himself famous for a peculiar method in making pan-cakes, whereby he can almost suit the palate of every one. Here the stranger has an opportunity of a return by the omnibus, which on certain days pa.s.ses this way.
At the point of Le Crocq, near Richmond, is a vertical stone, or fichade, which is evidently of some antiquity. In the neighbourhood are fragments of pottery, and some years ago stone instruments were picked up, together with a gold coin, which was recently found. On a promontory at Le Ree, near the isle of Lihou, is a cromlech, which has not received such damages, from the attrition of Time, as the rest. It is on the side of the road which leads to the above little isle, and at present consists of two large cap-stones, which measure about twenty feet across. They cover a considerable chamber, and are supported by a number of props. The entrance is at the East end, and the interior is dark and gloomy; the interstices being filled or blocked up with stones and other rubbish. Other cromlechs are pointed out as being in the neighbourhood, but there is no dependance on them, and the one above mentioned is said to be the far-famed "Creux des Fees," about half a mile from which is a small, but interesting one, consisting of three or four stones. Beneath it were found burnt ashes and bones, as also portions of urns and coa.r.s.e pottery. It may be found on the top of the hill Catioroc, and is called by the peasantry "Le Trepied." These latter cromlechs are the property of Mr Bonamy Maingay, and are well worthy of notice.
The little isle of Lihou does not possess any Celtic remains, and this has been attributed to its early occupation by the monks, and the erection of a chapel and priory, which were built about the tenth or eleventh century, or some time before the consecration of the Valle church. The site of the chapel presents a heap of walls in ruins, and until lately were shrouded in gloomy night-shade and rank fox-glove, whose tendrils have for years supported the drooping arch, the fallen urn, and mouldering monument; and, as it were in mockery of the dead, clasping the falling column. Remnants of the chapel still remain, and excavations which have heretofore been made, have brought to light many curious details. It consisted of a chancel and a nave, with a square tower on its North-East side. It was vaulted with stone, and the North wall of the nave with a few feet of the roof is still standing. The above excavations were commenced in the chancel, the walls of which were just visible above the turf. It contained the ribs of the roof and portions of the columns and windows, the former of which were of Caen stone. On sinking to a depth of four feet a pavement of small green and red Norman tiles was discovered, and from observations made in different parts of the chapel, it would appear the whole had been thus paved. Under this pavement a few silver monastic coins and pennies of Edward I. were found. A range of buildings may be traced at the lower part of the chapel, overlooking the sea, and others have disappeared from the encroachment of the waves at spring-tides. In a Southern bank is a drain, apparently leading to the kitchen, in which were found large quant.i.ties of fish-bones, scales, and other matter. To the East is a walled enclosure, which is said to be the "garden"; at a short distance from this is a round-house or dovecot, where the monks reared their pigeons, and in an adjoining spot is a piece of ground which still goes by the name of the "Cimetiere." At one end of the chancel are some steps which appear to be the chief entrance, and the rugged causeway leading from the island to the opposite sh.o.r.e is supposed to have been made by the monks. In the rocks on the South side are two natural baths, supposed to have been hollowed by the attrition of the waters and pebbles, as the action of the waves is remarkably strong here.
They are supposed to have been used by the monks during the existence of the priory. The island is very much exposed and scarcely anything besides tufted herbage will grow there; nevertheless there is a good house, containing useful apartments and a fine billiard room and table.
Leaving Lihou on the other side of Rocquaine bay is a creek, on which were once some ruins.
Towards the sea the botanist will find abundance of eryngo or sea-holly, which is a truly marine plant and exceedingly nutritious, the young tops being eaten as asparagus; also fine specimens of samphire, which is far superior to that of Grande Rocque and the neighbourhood. Here, and in the vicinity of Lihou are the chief places for the gathering of vraic, which from the 17th of July to the 31st of August is one general scene of activity, and is well worthy the attention of the stranger, as it is a peculiar feature in the island character.
In this bustling affair he will observe bands of country people, men, women, and children, trooping towards the rocks in one uniform spirit of hilarity and glee, of whom some are not unfrequently crowned with flowers and other fantastical head-dresses. On the receding of the tide they disperse themselves among the rocks, the strongest, be it on horse-back or on foot, striving to attain the richest point. When the vraic is abundant they gather it with a kind of sickle or reaping hook, throwing it in heaps on a certain rock marked by a number of pebbles or chalking the name. Where carts are not accessible they bear it at full speed on horse-back, and some few on their shoulders. On the approach of the tide or end of their labour, the lads lead the la.s.ses to bathe, which is a fund of amus.e.m.e.nt to those unaccustomed to the sight, for what with the merriment of the men and the shrieks of the timid girls, all is confusion and uproar. However this soon subsides as the evening mellow approaches, as there is no small expectation of something that exceeds all, inasmuch as it is usual to have an entertainment on the like scale. Such being the case, the country inns throw up a kind of canopy, which is tastefully decorated with flowers and surmounted with fern; the whole of the fabric being propped up with posts.
A variety of cheer takes place, which is closed by an evening dance, generally undertaken by the young _vraicquers_. This highly characteristic native scenery is equally prevalent at the bays of Le Ree, La Parelle and the Vazon.
The land in this district is liberally supplied with vraic, which in connexion with a good active soil is capable of producing the best crops, especially potatoes, which in some instances are six Guernsey bushels to the perch, or at the rate of about twenty tons to the English acre. The farms are generally from thirty to forty vergees, and if there is a predominance of meadow land, they usually manure two vergees, which is about one fifteenth. In other districts they manure one in four, and disperse at least four loads to the vergee. The medical herbs are in usual character with those of Torteval and other upland parishes, wherefore the botanist will fall in with tolerable specimens of potentilla tormentilla, which according to the dryness of the soil, varies in its virtues as an astringent.
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Returning to town, on the left, are the ruins of an old Catholic chapel called St Appoline, which at present is converted into a furze-house and cow stable, consequently the interior remains of its mural antiquity are fast vanishing away. In the adjoining house may be seen the clapper of the bell, portions of a sun-dial, and an ornamented stone cross which it is said once stood on the summit of the East gable. At the back of the proprietor"s house is an old building, in the walls of which are some arched windows and a fire place, that is conjectured to have formed the kitchen. The neighbourhood has a monastic seclusion, which may render it probable as being the place of old monkish hospitality. On the inside of the vaulted roof are some curious figures in fresco, one of which evidently represents the Virgin Mary. Those on the lower parts are entirely demolished from the injury done to the plaster by the furze and other lumber. On the South side is a window forming an opening of forty-eight by thirteen inches, being divided into two parts by a horizontal stone or transome. The stones are of considerable dimensions, and are occasionally laid horizontally.
Keeping the road to town one will fall in with the Catel church, which has undergone many alterations and repairs. It is built on the site of an ancient fort called the "Castel du Grand Sarazin," and the North wall of the chancel and transept are still remaining portions of the old castle walls, the masonry of which is exceedingly rude, the large and small stones being thrown together confusedly and without order. Of late years some incongruous and rude fresco figures have been discovered on a wall of the North transept. In the church-yard is the tomb of the late Lord De Saumarez, a native of the island, much beloved and esteemed. The tomb is guarded by an iron railing and is exceedingly plain, at once affording a striking instance of the un-ostentatious disposition of the late Lord.
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Someways to the right is Pouchez, the charming estate of Mr Moullin, diversified with rich meadows, hill and dale, and discretional openings amid a gay profusion of deep green foliage, ivy-mantled stumps and pollard oaks; which together with a few old mossy walls, and rural buildings, full well claims the attention of the tourist.
The road from hence to the Rohais, from its alt.i.tude, affords a most expansive view over the vale country beneath, especially from the fir clump. Should the evening be on the mellow wane, he may indulge himself with a seat, and with the combined feelings of the painter and the poet contemplate on the placidity of the distant landscape. Unfurled like a map before him lay rocks, trees, pools, cottages and the distant horizon, glittering like liquid silver under the expiring glory of the setting sun.
Here he will catch a glimpse of cottages half hid under piles of deep green foliage, which his fancy may ingeniously colour into a hamlet of peace and contentment;--there a handsome villa and a sweep of inland water gleaming in the evening red, with here and there a cottage curling its smoke amid the calm serenity of the scene, or a wind-mill on a distant knoll flagging in the evening breeze.
On the Rohais road the houses have a respectable appearance, and the land apparently under a higher state of cultivation than he has. .h.i.therto seen.
Being elevated and laying open to the North, the gardens are sometimes severely touched by the winds, and though most of them are protected by high walls, it nevertheless is not a sure preventive. The houses in general have an English cut, either being centered in beautiful green daisy fields, or hid in high shrubberies and trees. The air, from the upland situation of the neighbourhood, is considered remarkably pure and wholesome, being a close representation to that of Torteval, which undoubtedly is the healthiest parish in the island.
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SECOND DAY"s EXCURSION.
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By way of making a circuit of the island, the stranger will select the road to Fort George, which has been already noticed. A little beyond is Fermain bay, delightfully environed with rocks, trees and furze hills, which latter are romantically intersected with winding path-ways, evidently not to be trod by the timid pedestrian, as they run round steep declivities of blooming furze blossom, and at times verge on precipices. At low watermark the little bay presents a fine sandy bottom, consequently is an occasional resort for sea bathing; towards the sh.o.r.e the pebbles are large, and thrown in such quant.i.ties and with such violence as to be worn completely round by the attrition of the confined waves. On a height to the left are two land marks, placed for the purpose of warning mariners coming down the Great Russel, the situation of the Lower Heads, a dangerous reef of rocks, laying about mid-way between this and Sark. From this point Southwards the line of coast is one continued scene of rocky steeps, ravines, and broken declivities more or less mantled with golden furze bloom, at times belted with ivy, and fringed with wild flowers. Indeed the whole connected together is one of singular beauty and well merits the attention of the artist. The little bay is defended by a martello tower and battery.
To the right is Bonair, the residence of our late lamented Baillif or head magistrate, Daniel De Lisle Brock, Esq., which is prettily situated on an upland, sloping towards the sea, and belted with luxuriant timber.
A little further on, on the opposite side is the manor house of Saumarez, belonging to John Thomas De Saumarez, Esq., Comptroller or Solicitor-General. With the exception of a few modern additions and innovations, the building has a considerable appearance of antiquity.
According to an inquest about five centuries since, or in the reign of Edward III., this house is mentioned as being in the possession of the Saumarez family from time immemorial. About that time the princ.i.p.al fortress of the island was Jerbourg, when the office of Castellan was granted to the lord of this manor, a situation of no small trust; at present the t.i.tle is profitless.
The greater part of St Martin"s church is of the early English style, but the windows of modern formation. The porch affords fine specimens of the ancient chisel, and is considered the handsomest in the island. The corner b.u.t.tresses are cut from the hard granite, and the ma.s.sive sculpture work is considered exceedingly good. The dedication was attended with the splendour of the Catholic church in which the feudal pomp of the baronial times was eminently conspicuous. It took place about the year 1199, and there were present the Governors of Rennes, Honfleur and Caen, Totness and Southampton, and eighty-four lords displayed their banners.
Some ways to the right, and near St Andrew"s church, is "la Croix au Baillif," or Baillif"s Cross, which took its name from the following circ.u.mstance, that happened in the earlier part of the thirteenth century.
Gaultier De La Salle, the then Baillif of the island, lived about half a mile hence, at a place called "la Ville au Roi," which may still be seen with its sculptured granite door-way and stone spiral staircase. The adjoining houses are only tenanted by poor people, and the walls of the old mansion are still supported by the clasping embrace of ivy, and its roof screened by the umbrage and waving verdure of some tall neglected trees.
Gaultier De La Salle had a poor neighbour named Ma.s.sey, who chiefly depended for support on the produce of a small adjoining patch of ground connected with the Baillif"s estate, and to which was attached a right of pa.s.sage to a well belonging to La Salle. This privilege was a great annoyance to the Baillif, wherefore he tried various means to deprive him of it; but being unsuccessfull in them all, he at length devised a scheme for taking away his life. Accordingly, La Salle hid two of his own silver cups, and expressing strong suspicion of his neighbour, poor Ma.s.sey was instantly taken up and brought to trial on circ.u.mstantial evidence.
Now, as theft, to a certain degree, in those days, was a capital offence, and the accuser a person of high authority, and backed by the most corrupt witnesses, the case was soon brought to proof, and Ma.s.sey found "guilty."
Wherefore the judges, on their last deliberation came forth with sentence of death on their lips. There was a pause--a dead silence in the Court; and the unfortunate prisoner, after vainly a.s.serting his innocence, now awaited his condemnation hopelessly; when suddenly a noise was heard, the trampling of many feet, and a man rushed breathless into the Court, holding up the silver cups, and exclaiming, "they are found." He informed the judges that having been employed that morning in removing some sheaves of corn belonging to the Baillif into the barn, he and his fellow labourers had found the cups in the middle of the rick. Hardly had he said this, than De La Salle pa.s.sionately exclaimed: "Fool! did I not tell thee _not to_ touch _that_ rick; I knew--" He stopped in confusion; but his words were marked.
Every eye was turned on the guilty Baillif, and the Court resolved that the base accuser should suffer the "lex talionis a crimine ejus," or retaliation on account of his crime. Ma.s.sey was instantly set at liberty; and, after a short trial, Gaultier De La Salle was sentenced to death. On his way to execution, he stopped at this spot, and partook of the sacrament; in remembrance of which a cross was erected, called the "Baillif"s Cross." The spot is now only marked by a stone in the pathway, with a cross cut in it. The place where Ma.s.sey lived is called "le Courtil Ma.s.sey," or Ma.s.sey"s Field, to this day. The Baillif"s estate being forfeited to the Crown, has ever since been called "la Ville au Roi," or the King"s Town.
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The Doyle column stands on the high land of Jerbourg, and was erected by the States of the island in the year 1820. The ground on which it is built is elevated from the sea 350 feet, and the column itself 101 from the foundation, forming a total of 451 feet. The gallery is defended by an iron bal.u.s.trade, is fourteen feet square, will contain from thirty to forty persons, and is ascended by c.o.c.klestairs guarded by railings. The entrance is on the East side, and the door of the gallery faces the South-East. It is built of Guernsey granite with an oak frame placed in the wall at every ten feet, and may be seen ten leagues distance at sea from the West and Southern direction, being considered by mariners of the greatest importance. It was raised to commemorate with grateful remembrance the many public services rendered the island by the late General Sir John Doyle, whilst Lieutenant-Governor, from the year 1803 to 1817. From the top may be caught a most extended view of earth, sky, and water. At one"s feet lay Sark, Herm and Jethou; and Jersey, France and Alderney, so plain as almost to be able to distinguish the outline of form, such as indentations, creeks, coves, and inlets of projecting rocks and crags, more or less whitened with the moss of age and antiquity. Inland, fields waving with corn and verdure, and if in his poetic fancy the tourist cannot conjure up something of a sylvan scene, a rolling river or a sweep of inland water, is his own fault. The key of the Monument is delivered to the public gratis, and is kept at an adjoining public house, on whose sign are the words "Doyle--pub. grat."
On the small promontory of Jerbourg was formerly a castle, the keeper or castellan of which was of the De Saumarez family, unto whom the manor has for several centuries belonged. At present not so much as the walls are remaining. From several trenches and ditches, which are still remaining, it is conjectured there was once a Roman encampment here, and this is not at all improbable as tradition gives us the same. Jerbourg barracks are situate on an adjoining spot and are sufficiently capacious for about three hundred troops.
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Taking the road to Pet.i.t-Bo bay, about mid-way, the artist will catch a lively picture, such as bold and majestic crags in the front;--a streak of the ocean, the deep ravine beneath, with a foaming little waterfall, rivulet and mill, beautified with a cove of silver sand, all tending to elevate the idea, and reduce into the mind a fit a.s.semblage for the finest picture, such as "beauty in the lap of horror." An ill-formed paper-mill and an artificial mud pond may be said to overthrow the quietude and seclusion of the spot. However, it is so much like that where Napoleon rests in St Helena, only in a lesser form, that a correspondent of the local press, who had evidently visited the Emperor"s tomb, wrote thus: "When you descend the road from the Forest church, keep to your right and proceed directly on to the brow of the cliff overlooking the small battery.
A ravine there presents itself. If you will be kind enough next to look towards the cliff immediately opposite, you will observe a pretty lofty eminence. On that height, in imagination, I placed Madame Montholon"s house, which you must remember is described by many travellers as looking down upon the Emperor"s tomb. About an hundred feet below this, picture to your imagination a beautiful green sward, sloping in graceful declivity down the valley. Next on the left hand, place a small cottage, the residence of the old sentinel at St Helena, and at the foot of his little garden, a sentry box, where a record is kept for the entry of visitors"
names; beside this, bursting out from a crevice in the rock, you may fancy the celebrated spring, out of which the departed warrior was accustomed to drink. The water is the purest and most refreshing to be found in the island. Carry your eye a little further down, and the sacred tomb is seen surrounded by an iron railing. A large willow tree waves its graceful foliage over this romantic spot. A plain stone, with the awful word "Napoleon," rests on the grave. Immediately beneath the tomb, a natural bed of scarlet geraniums, intermingled with myrtles and evergreens, extend to the rocks beneath, over whose rugged heads the sea breaks, thus terminating one of the most picturesque and romantic scenes to be found on the terrestrial globe."
Continuing the road, the country wears a diversity of scenery, being occasionally interrupted by hills and abrupt risings towards the sea. In dells screened from the roughness of the winds, and where there is a good aperture for the sun, gardens do well; and cottage vines[A] are equally as vigorous as in Jersey, and exotics require little or no protection besides that of a slight covering. The broad and narrow leaved double-flowering myrtle flourishes in the open air, and the orange with only the aid of a wall perfects its fruit. The Guernsey fig[B] growing as a standard of great strength, with a variety of other outlandish plants and shrubs, bespeak a situation favorable both for flowers and fruits. In the neighbourhood, amongst a variety of plants, the botanist will find allium ampeloprasum, or vine leek, which, according to Mr B. Saunders,[C] a member of the Botanic Society, is also found wild on a nearly inaccessible cliff beyond the Artillery Barracks.
[A] The small cl.u.s.ter grape seems to be the hardiest, and indeed the only one that thrives in England to any advantage, for some years ago I have:--"Cold frosty morn,--ice thick,--pump frozen;--went to spend a few days with my relation the Rev. Thomas Bellamy, of Chetnole, in Dorsetshire. After generously partaking of wine, with other clergymen, before a blazing log-wood fire, I was informed that the great vine that entered the room where we were sitting, and which covered the inside of a s.p.a.cious bow-window, had a few years since produced a hogshead of wine. Certainly it is the largest and most s.p.a.cious vine I have ever seen, as it overruns the whole of the back building, and occupies a s.p.a.ce of not less than fifteen yards!"--_Mem. Jan. 19, 1829._
[B] Among some old papers pertaining to my "Not.i.tiae," I find, the fig-tree thrives well as an espalier even as far North as Yorkshire, but the fruit exceedingly small, green, and unripe. At Ampleforth College, in that county, an entertainment was given by the Right Hon. Lord Clifford, and if my memory serves me right, among other things in the bill of fare, were twenty-nine geese, fifty plates of nuts, and three do. of dough figs. The former were quickly dispatched, but of the latter scarce a dozen were taken, and even those but partly eaten, notwithstanding covers were laid for upwards of a hundred.--_December, 1823._
[C] See a communication in THE CHANNEL ISLES HORTICULTURAL CHRONICLE, May 2, 1842.
The sea coast in this district is exceedingly craggy and at a place called the "Gouffre," which in summer is often the resort of pic-nic parties, the rocks are thrown in the most haggard yet beautiful state of wild confusion, and the foaming of the sea at an immense depth below, like the boiling of a cauldron, fully demonstrates the disturbed state of the elements. The seeker of solitude and the admirer of rude nature can almost enjoy themselves to repletion, as perhaps this place cannot be represented save in some of the wilds of America or the deep ravines of Merionethshire, at all events solitude can never be more faithfully portrayed.
A little further on towards Pet.i.t-Bo is a sequestered little fishing nook, called "La Moye," consisting of one or two fisherman"s huts deeply seated in a ravine replete with furze, grig and wild flowers. At the bottom is a cave formed by the confused state of the rocks, which acts as a harbour or anchorage for a few fishing boats, the which, if the stranger be fond of the water, he can hire for a trifle. The fish here as well as in Pet.i.t-Bo bay are rock-fish, whitings, sword-fish, &c.
A little to the Westward of the Gouffre is a place called the "Bigard,"
famous for its rocks, pinnacled ma.s.ses and confused precipices, which confining the sea within its narrow chasms, causes it to fret and roar beyond every thing grand, at once laying bare to the observer from the heights and crags above, one continued and fearful action of scenery.