One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body and two of white for the border, if made in two colors.
Make a chain of 54 st.i.tches, turn.
1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.
2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1 chain; repeat across, turn.
Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the back, bringing the work to the shoulder.
Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have made 4 rows.
In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the front is of the same length as the back.
Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the other front to correspond.
For the border: Commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used) at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same st.i.tch at corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.
Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-st.i.tch as you did the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows, widening the same st.i.tches at corners each time.
Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together.
Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the usual way for 25 st.i.tches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long as desired, then make the 2 rows of s.p.a.ces, in treble crochet, as before and finish with 7 rows of seed-st.i.tch, same as body of jacket.
For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 st.i.tches, chain 3 for a picot; repeat.
The st.i.tch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy st.i.tch may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-st.i.tch, made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of st.i.tches, turn.
1. Miss 1st st.i.tch, a double in each remaining st.i.tch, turn.
2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st st.i.tch, over, draw a loop through next st.i.tch, over, draw a loop through same st.i.tch, over, draw a loop through next st.i.tch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, *
chain 4, a double in 1st st.i.tch of the chain just made, which closes or joins the cl.u.s.ter of loops, over, draw a loop through same st.i.tch with last loop of preceding cl.u.s.ter, over, draw a loop through next st.i.tch, over, draw a loop through same st.i.tch, over, draw a loop through next st.i.tch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *; turn.
3. A double in 1st s.p.a.ce, double around the thread between 4 chain and cl.u.s.ter; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern.
The bird"s-eye-st.i.tch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired length, turn.
1. Miss 1, a double in each st.i.tch of chain, turn.
2. A double in double, taking front loop of st.i.tch in last row, a double in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row.
Still another pretty st.i.tch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as follows: Chain a number of st.i.tches divisible by 3, turn.
1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining st.i.tch of chain, turn.
2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn.
3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in 3d st.i.tch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through 2 st.i.tches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat from * to end of row, turn.
4. Same as 2d row.
5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1, a double in each of 2 st.i.tches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th and 5th rows.
And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.
1. Miss 3, a treble in next st.i.tch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next st.i.tch, repeat to end of row, turn.
2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row; repeat. Repeat 2d row.
Tam-o"-Shanter in Double Crochet
[Ill.u.s.tration: Tam-o"-Shanter in Double Crochet]
For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn easily.
Make a chain of 3 st.i.tches, join.
1. Seven doubles in ring.
2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of st.i.tch.
3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.
4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a larger crown is desired.
33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
36 to 45. A double in each st.i.tch.
46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each st.i.tch and fasten off the last row neatly.
Cover a large, flat b.u.t.ton-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3 st.i.tches, turn, and in 2d st.i.tch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of st.i.tch; then make 1 double in 1st st.i.tch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which will cover the b.u.t.ton-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed.
For the edge of the b.u.t.ton and the cord around top of band either the double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet, or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool"s delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be; indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may "take up" more rapidly than antic.i.p.ated. Make a slip or half knot at one end of the yarn, pa.s.s the other end down through this to form a loop, then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left hand; pa.s.s the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-st.i.tch in crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn, or that pa.s.sed originally through the half knot. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by pa.s.sing forefinger of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord.
Sew this cord evenly around b.u.t.ton and top of band, and the cap is completed.