=Couching.=--Couching is a coa.r.s.e blanket st.i.tch done over two or three strands of silk, linen or cotton floss. It makes an attractive finish for a hem line and also for finishing the edge in applique.
=Feather St.i.tch.=--The princ.i.p.al use of the feather st.i.tch being that of ornamentation requires that it shall be evenly and carefully done, or it fails in its purpose. The feather st.i.tch consists of alternating st.i.tches, or groups of st.i.tches, slanting toward a center line. The st.i.tch may be varied greatly by the length of the st.i.tch, the slant of the st.i.tch, and the number of st.i.tches on each side. The tendency is to gradually increase the length of the st.i.tch which must be carefully avoided, as well as a change in the slant. Do not make too long a st.i.tch, as there is danger of catching and breaking the thread. The feather st.i.tch can be used very effectively in scroll designs for the ornamentation of sofa pillows, cushion covers, collars, underwear, etc.
A. SINGLE FEATHER St.i.tCHING.
Work toward you, holding the cloth over the left forefinger. With a knot in the thread insert the needle from the under side a short distance to the right or left of the line the feather st.i.tching is to follow (which may be designated the center line) and draw the thread through. Place the left thumb over the thread to hold it down, and on the opposite side take up a slanting st.i.tch, the top of which is as far from the center line as the length of the st.i.tch, and the bottom touching the center line. Draw the needle out over the thread which will thus form a loop of the thread from the first st.i.tch. On the opposite side take up another slanting st.i.tch the top of which is an equal distance from the center line and even with the bottom of the last st.i.tch. Repeat for successive st.i.tches. At the end of a thread fasten by pa.s.sing the needle down where the thread last came through the cloth, thus holding the loop from the last st.i.tch in place. Begin a new thread by pa.s.sing the needle up through this loop.
B. DOUBLE FEATHER St.i.tCHING.
This consists of alternating groups of two, three or more st.i.tches instead of single st.i.tches. The successive st.i.tches of each group must be placed directly under the first st.i.tch of the group.
=French Knot.=--Bring the needle through from the under side. With the needle in the right hand, take hold of the thread with the left hand about an inch from the cloth and, holding it taut, wind it several times around the point of the needle. Return the needle to the same hole through which it came out, and draw it back to the under side.
=Hemst.i.tching.=--Hemst.i.tching is a method of hemming in which a few parallel threads are drawn, the hem turned to the line thus formed, and hemmed down with the same st.i.tch that separates the cross threads in successive cl.u.s.ters. There are several modifications of the hemst.i.tch.
The following methods have been selected as being the best for four reasons: (1) The thread is thrown under the edge of the hem, and consequently wears longer and shows less. (2) The only part of the thread showing on the right side is the loop around the cross threads.
(3) It is readily taught to children, as it is simple, easy to remember, and can be given as two distinct parts. (4) It is the natural way to hold the hem.
a. _Drawing the threads_--Measuring from the edge of the cloth, allow twice the width of the desired hem when finished, plus the first fold, and draw several threads, the exact number depending upon the texture of the fabric. Draw the first thread the entire length before starting the second, as it is liable to break where the first one did. The first thread being drawn, the second will come more readily. Beginners are inclined to draw too many threads. Unless both edges are to be hemst.i.tched the opening should be narrow enough so that the threads at the top will not loosen.
b. _The Hem_--Turn the first fold of the hem and baste to the exact line of the opening. Careful basting is indispensable to good hemst.i.tching, and especially so at a corner where two hems cross.
Miter all corners of hems that are more than one-fourth of an inch in width.
c. _The St.i.tch_--Hold the cloth over the left forefinger as in ordinary hemming. Bury the knot by inserting the needle under the edge of the hem and drawing it through. The st.i.tch consists of two distinct parts, (1) forming the loop around the cross threads, and (2) catching down to the edge of the hem:
(1) Pointing the needle toward you and holding the thread under the left thumb, take up on the needle three or four of the cross threads. Draw the needle out over the thread, thus forming the loop, and tight enough to separate the cross threads.
(2) Insert the needle under the edge of the _hem_ only and take an ordinary hemming st.i.tch. Repeat 1 and 2 for the next st.i.tch.
=Herringbone St.i.tch.=--The herringbone or catch st.i.tch is a cross st.i.tch used to finish the raw edges of flannel or heavy material. It serves both the purpose of overcasting over a raw edge and that of hemming. It is used on raw edged hems to avoid the ridge formed by the first fold of a hem, on the flannel patch and for finishing the flannel seam, which may be pressed open and both single edges herringbone st.i.tched, or both folded to one side and finished over the double edge. In most cases the open seam looks better.
The st.i.tch consists of single, alternating running st.i.tches made first to the right and then to the left, working from you instead of toward you as in ordinary running. The thread being carried across from one st.i.tch to another, gives the appearance of a cross st.i.tch. The st.i.tches on each side must be in straight rows, with the outer row just over the edge of the flannel. The st.i.tch should be no deeper than necessary to prevent pulling out. A good rule for beginners is to make the top of each st.i.tch even with the bottom of the last st.i.tch. _Point the needle toward you in making the st.i.tch, but work away from you._ The edge of the flannel must be kept smooth. This being a cross st.i.tch the thread of one part of the st.i.tch is on top and the other underneath. Be sure that this is regular, those slanting in the same direction should be always either to the top or to the bottom.
=Kensington Outline St.i.tch.=--This st.i.tch is used to follow the line of a design for ornamentation. To avoid the knot, when starting begin half an inch from the end of the line to be followed, and put in three or four running st.i.tches, bringing the thread out at the proper place for starting. Turn the cloth around, holding it over the left forefinger, and work from you. Pointing the needle toward you, take a short running st.i.tch directly on the line keeping the thread always on the right side of the needle, except on a line curving sharply to the left when the thread will fall more naturally to the left side. The thread being carried from one st.i.tch to another gives the effect of a long diagonal st.i.tch on the right side and running st.i.tches on the wrong. The length of the st.i.tch will be determined by the size of the thread, and the character of the line to be covered, a curved line requiring a shorter st.i.tch than a straight one.
=Lazy Daisy or Star St.i.tch.=--This is a variation of the blanket st.i.tch.
Insert the needle at the point desired for the center of the flower and draw the thread through. Insert again at the same place and take up the desired length of st.i.tch on the needle, drawing the needle out over the thread. Pa.s.s the needle down through the cloth at the point where it came out, but on the other side of the loop, thus forming a second loop at the end of the petal to hold it in place, and return the needle again to the center of the flower. Make as many petals as desired and finish with the French knot in the center of the flower. This st.i.tch also makes a pretty star, using six points and finishing without the French knot.
MISCELLANEOUS.
=Bands=.--A band is a straight piece of cloth used to finish garments at the neck, wrist or waist. It may be sewed to a straight, gathered or pleated edge. A band cut with the warp is stronger than one cut with the woof.
A. HEMMED BAND.
See description of the Gathering, page 68. Gather as desired. Place the right sides of the cloth and band together and baste just above the gathering thread, taking care that the gathers are arranged perfectly even. St.i.tch just below the gathering thread. Turn in a fourth of an inch at the ends and along the other side of the band. Fold the band over just covering the gathers, and baste. Hem or st.i.tch along the edge, overhanding the ends of the band.
B. OVERHAND BAND.
See description of Gauging, page 69. Make the band by turning in one-fourth of an inch all around, folding and basting the edges together. Overhand the ends of the band. The whipping of the full part to the band will be sufficient to hold the two sides of the band together. Turn back the raw edges of the piece to be gathered one-half inch and gather once, twice or three times as desired. Pin to the band and overhand, taking a st.i.tch for each pleat of the gathers. Fasten all bands very securely.
=Bias.=--A bias is a diagonal cut. To cut a true bias, fold over the corner of the cloth so that the warp and woof threads are parallel. A choice bias is a true bias, having the twill of the cloth at right angles to the cut. Great care should be taken in measuring and cutting bias strips to have them the same width throughout the length. Also avoid stretching after cutting.
a. To cut a bias facing, bias binding or fold, measure in the desired width on the true bias at a number of points. Draw a line, crease in a fold or baste where the facing is to be cut off.
b. To put on a bias facing, place the edge of the strip, right sides together, even with the edge of the cloth to be faced, baste and st.i.tch. Turn the facing back _exactly_ in the seam and baste along the edge so that the facing will not show on the right side. Turn the fold at the top, baste and hem.
A bias facing for a curve should be cut narrow enough so that by stretching one edge of the facing it will lie perfectly smooth when finished.
c. To join two bias strips--Cut the ends to be joined straight with the threads of the cloth and place the right sides together, slipping the top piece past the under piece the width of a seam, but having the top edges even. St.i.tch where the facings cross, open the seam and crease; or, after tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, a seam may be turned back at the end of each piece and the folded edges overhanded together.
=Cloth.=--A fabric woven of fibers, either animal or vegetable. The edges of cloth are known as the selvedge, the threads running lengthwise the warp, and those crossing the warp from selvedge to selvedge the woof. The selvedge should be trimmed off, as it is hard to sew through and draws up when wet.
=Eyelets and Loops.=--An eyelet is a small hole made and worked in a garment to receive a cord, stud or loop of a b.u.t.ton. Punch the hole with a stiletto, pushing the threads apart rather than breaking them.
Overhand closely from right to left with short even st.i.tches. A large eyelet may be cut out and worked around with the b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch. A blind loop is made in place of the eye to receive a hook. Put three or four long st.i.tches in the same place beginning at the left, so that the thread will be at the proper place for working the loop with the blanket st.i.tch.
=Joining and Fastening Thread.=--When sewing, care should be taken in joining threads. The manner in which it is done depends upon the st.i.tch in use. In hemming, leave a half-inch of the old and a half-inch of the new thread, tuck both under the hem and continue hemming over the threads. The same plan is followed in overhanding. In the blanket st.i.tch, feather st.i.tch, herringbone, chain and b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch the new thread must come out through the last st.i.tch. Thoughtful attention should be given to the fastening of threads, as careful, painstaking work may soon be rendered useless by the loosening of the thread from the end. After fastening securely clip off all threads that the work may be not only strong, but neat. The usual fastening consists of several backst.i.tches taken in the same place.
=Mitered Corner.=--Two hems crossing at right angles may be finished either with the square or the mitered corner. To miter a corner, turn and crease a quarter-inch fold on both sides. Turn the second fold of the hem the desired width on both sides and crease. Open out the corner and place a dot where the inner creases cross. Place a second dot a quarter of an inch from the first toward the corner. Through this second point draw a line pa.s.sing from side to side, across the corner, being careful that the line is an equal distance from the corner on both sides. Cut off the corner on this line. Fold both hems again on the creases before made and pin the hem on one side in place. Make a pin hole as near the exact point where the hems cross as possible, pa.s.sing through both hems. Fold in the bias edge on the hem that is not pinned down, _exactly from the pin hole to the corner_, causing the edges of the two hems to meet at an angle of forty-five degrees.
=Patterns.=--With the varied, complex and ever-changing styles of fashion, individual pattern drafting (except for a very simple article) is impracticable, usually resulting in commonplace garments and involving useless time and labor. For the trifling sum of ten or fifteen cents reliable, up-to-date patterns can be secured which are cut to established measurements by a fashion expert. A good needlewoman supplies herself with a good pattern and then cuts accurately, bastes carefully, and finishes neatly, and in nearly all cases, results will be satisfactory.
=Plackets.=--A placket is an opening made in a garment. There are several ways of finishing an opening, but in all cases, except when the gusset is used, the underside should extend some distance under the top to prevent gaping.
A. A PLACKET WITH A CONTINUOUS BINDING.
This is the placket used on children"s drawers, night shirts, under garments, etc.
Cut the opening the desired length. Cut the facing with the warp a little more than twice the length of the opening and twice the desired width when finished, plus one-fourth inch, or more, allowed for seams.
The following are the successive steps for making the placket:
a. Fold the cloth, right sides together, in a line with the opening.
b. Double the facing across the warp, through the center, wrong sides together.
c. Slip this between the folds of the cloth so that the fold of the facing will just come to the end of the opening. This will bring the right side of facing to the right side of the cloth.
d. Baste the facing to the cloth down one side and up the other side of the opening.
e. St.i.tch with an eighth of an inch seam, which will render unavoidable a small pleat at the end of the opening the width of the seam.
f. Crease the facing back over the opening exactly in the seam.