This County is situated at the head of the Bay of Fundy, and joins Nova-Scotia. The line between the Provinces is the narrowest part of the isthmus between the Bay of Fundy and Bay Verte. A small stream over which there is a bridge--forming the separating line. It contains the following Parishes:--Westmorland, Sackville, Hillsborough, Hopewell, Moncton, Dorchester, Salisbury, and Botsford.
A considerable part of this county was formerly settled by the Acadians or French neutrals, whose descendants are still numerous in this and the adjoining County of Northumberland, being spread along the seaboard, to the Bay of Chaleur. They have settlements at Memramcook, Peticodiac, Bay Verte, Cocagne, Bucktouche, Richibucto, &c.--where there are several large Chapels, which are usually supplied with Romish Missionaries, who are supported by tythes from the French Catholics.
But the most thriving cla.s.s of settlers are the English, chiefly from Yorkshire, or their descendants. They are in general good farmers and attend chiefly to husbandry. Indian corn is but little cultivated in this county, the climate being too cool and temperate for that plant to thrive well; but wheat, oats, potatoes, &c. flourish here in great perfection. This is the finest part of the Province for stock; from the extensive tracts of salt marsh which lie in this county, many thousand acres of which are d.y.k.ed and produce abundant crops. b.u.t.ter and cheese are made and exported from this county in large quant.i.ties. The cattle are superior to any in the country from the great attention that has been paid by the inhabitants to crossing and improving the breed.
During the American war nine hundred head of cattle, and eight hundred firkins of b.u.t.ter, were sent from this county to Halifax, and other places in one year, and although the demand has fallen off since the peace, there are still large droves taken from c.u.mberland to Halifax, and St. John--and likewise large quant.i.ties of b.u.t.ter and cheese.
The tides at the head of the Bay rise to a great height. They come in with successive swells of the water called the Boar, which at spring tides roll in with amazing velocity in waves about three feet perpendicular. The noise of the Boar is heard a great distance, and animals immediately take to the highland, and manifest visible signs of terror if near it. The spring tides at Cape Chignecto, Cape Enrage, and c.u.mberland bason, are from forty-five to fifty-five feet. Common tides at Cape Chignecto, thirty-six feet; at Cape Enrage, forty feet; at Fort c.u.mberland, forty-five; and at Bay Verte, from eight to ten feet perpendicular.
The sh.o.r.es from Cape Chignecto and Martin"s Head to the Joggins, or land of Grindstones, are high, bold and rocky. On other parts of the coast they are not so elevated, but abound in most places with valuable stones of different kinds, fit for building and other purposes. Great quant.i.ties of Grindstones are made in this county, and furnish a valuable article for exportation. Nearly twenty thousand were formerly exported from this place annually, to the United States, and other places, but this branch of trade has fallen off considerably of late years.
Fort c.u.mberland formerly called Beausejour, is situated on the Missaguash river in this county. It was the first post fortified by the French in this Province, and was for a long while a great annoyance to the English settlers, till it was taken by Colonel MONCKTON, in 1755, who placed a British Garrison in it. The works are at present much decayed, a few soldiers are however still stationed in it.
The several parishes in this county are in a flourishing state. Some of them have neat places of worship with stated Ministers, and others are visited occasionally. Westmorland in general, is well settled, with a substantial yeomanry, and although it does not make such a figure in a bustling trade as some of the other counties, it is silently enriching itself with the slow but sure returns of Agriculture, and fast rising into importance.
The rivers in this county are the Peticodiac, Memramcook, and Missaguash with several other streams which run a considerable distance into the country. Some of them are well settled along their banks. The main road from Saint John to c.u.mberland follows the Peticodiac nearly throughout its whole course.
There are no sea-ports in this county of consequence. Dorchester has but little trade, and Chediac, is near the lines in Northumberland, although the river runs into this county and facilitates the export of its produce.
SECTION VIII.
NORTHUMBERLAND.
Joins Westmorland on the southward, and is bounded eastwardly by the Gulph of Saint Lawrence, and Bay of Chaleur. On the northwestward by the Bay of Chaleur to the river Ristigouche, and westwardly by a continuation of the western boundary line of Westmorland. The population of this county amounts to fifteen thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine.
This extensive county lies along the Gulph of Saint Lawrence having a great extent of sea-coast. It includes several large bays and rivers, and comprises more than one third of the Province. It contains the following Parishes:--Newcastle, Chatham, Ludlow, Northesk, Alnwick, Carleton, Beresford, Glenelg, Saumarez, Wellington, and Nelson. It is a great lumbering county, and furnishes more squared timber annually than the whole Province besides: The pine is of the best quality, and found in immense quant.i.ties along the numerous streams and rivers with which this part of the country abounds. The lumber shipped from this county generally commands a better price in the British market than from any other part of the Province. The princ.i.p.al port for shipping is Miramichi, which is crowded with vessels during the summer and autumn.
The river has two main branches called the northwest and southwest.
Vessels load in different parts of the river, and rafts are brought to the shipping with the greatest ease. Shipping go up the river as far as Fraser"s Island for cargoes and farther on the northwest, where there are several trading establishments. Newcastle is a considerable place for loading, and although it may be considered the county town, has nothing particular. About two miles below this place there is a trading establishment belonging to Mr. ABRAHAMS, and two miles farther down is the establishment of RANKIN, & CO. Indeed wherever there is a convenient cove, vessels lay and load. Chatham four miles below Newcastle on the opposite side of the river, is also a considerable shipping place. It has a Church with several fine stores and buildings.
There are but few places along the entrance of this river but what are convenient for shipping. Upwards of three hundred sail load annually at Miramichi. The timber is paid for part in specie, and part in British and West-India goods and provisions.
A stranger would naturally suppose, that such a trade must produce great riches to the country; and that great and rapid improvements would be made. That large towns would be built--that the fair produce of such a trade would be seen in commodious and elegant houses, extensive stores and mercantile conveniences, in public buildings for ornament and utility, good roads and improved seats in the vicinity of the sea-ports, with Churches, Kirks, Chapels, &c.: All these with many other expectations would be but a matter of course. But here he would not only be disappointed, but astonished at the rugged and uncouth appearance of most part of this extensive county. There is not even a place that can claim the name of a town. The wealth that has come into it, has pa.s.sed as through a thoroughfare to the United States, to pay for labour or cattle. The persons princ.i.p.ally engaged in shipping the timber have been strangers who have taken no interest in the welfare of the country; but have merely occupied a spot to make what they could in the shortest possible time. Some of these have done well, and others have had to quit the trade: but whether they won or lost the capital of the country has been wasted, and no improvement of any consequence made to compensate for it, or to secure a source of trade to the inhabitants, when the lumber shall fail. Instead of seeing towns built, farms improved, and the country cleared and stocked with the reasonable returns of so great a trade; the forests are stripped and nothing left in prospect, but the gloomy apprehension when the timber is gone, of sinking into insignificance and poverty. Formerly the woods swarmed with American adventurers who cut as they pleased. These men seeing the advantages that were given them, and wishing to make the most of their time, cut few but prime trees, and manufactured only the best part of what they felled, leaving the tops to rot; by this mode more than a third of the timber was lost. This with their practice of leaving what was not of the best quality after the trees were felled, has destroyed hundreds of thousands of tons of good timber: And when this was stopped by permitting none but British subjects and freeholders to obtain licenses, the business was not much mended as any person wishing to enter into the trade could, by purchasing a small sterile spot for a small trifle (provided he was a British subject) get in the way of monopolizing the woods. These are some of the causes that have and still do operate against the prosperity of the country. Men who take no interest in the welfare of the province, continue to sap and prey on its resources.
The other sea-ports in this county are Saint Peters, Richibucto, and Ristigouche, at which places there is a considerable trade carried on in squared timber, &c. but they have nothing of consequence to merit a particular description. Besides the Miramichi already described, this county is watered by several considerable rivers, the princ.i.p.al of which is the Ristigouche, which falls into the Bay of Chaleur, and communicates by a short portage with Grand River which falls into the Saint John fifteen miles above the great falls. The smaller rivers are numerous, some of them have settlements along their banks and others are but little known. The inhabitants are a mixture of Europeans and Americans. A number of the descendants of the French neutrals are settled in this county, particularly on the river Cocagne where there are several villages with Catholic Chapels; they are also settled at Buctouche, Richibucto and along the sea-board as far as the Bay of Chaleur. They are generally agriculturalists and quiet orderly settlers.
Having thus gone briefly through the different counties, I shall conclude this chapter with a statement of the distances of the princ.i.p.al points on the Great Road of communication from St. John to Quebec:
From St. John to Fredericton, 92 miles on the western From Fredericton to the Presque-Isle, 84 side of the river.
From Presque-Isle to Grand Falls, 52 Thence to the Madawaska Falls, 45 To the river Des Caps near Kamouraska, 84 Thence to Quebec, 107 --- 464
making in the whole a distance of four hundred and sixty-four miles from the sea-board to Quebec, according to the present routes; nearly two thirds of which is along the great river St. John.
The great road of communication between this Province and Canada, has been much neglected, particularly about the Grand Falls where the road has been but lately cut and is but little improved, although this has been the route for the couriers upwards of forty years; but as the attention of Government is now turned to that object it is probable there will soon be an alteration for the better.
In opening new roads there is not sufficient pains taken to explore the best ground in commencing. Frequently after the roads are considerably improved, and much money expended, better routes are discovered and most parts of the old road are abandoned. To remedy this where the road runs along the course of a river it would be advisible to explore the country some distance back, for as the banks of the rivers are in many places very high the streams that run into them indent the country and form hollows and hills near their exit that are nearly impa.s.sable; when by going a little back the land falls and their banks have a gradual slope over which a good road may be made with ease. This although not a general rule, will hold good in most parts of the country.
CHAPTER VI.
_State of Learning. Trade. Revenue. Remarks on the Lumber Business.
Population. Militia._
The state of learning in this Province is very flourishing at present compared to what it was a few years ago. When the country was first settled the opportunities of obtaining a liberal education were small and confined to a few. From this cause many persons who occasionally fill important stations in the several counties, are found very deficient in learning, but this from the many provisions lately made will cease in a few years, and men will always be found to fill all public offices, with learning sufficient to enable them to discharge their several duties with credit to themselves and advantage to the public.
Besides the College of New-Brunswick incorporated by charter, there are Grammar Schools established in several counties which are liberally supported. By the bounty of the Legislature, twenty pounds per annum is allowed to be drawn out of the Province Treasury for every Parish where a School-House is provided, and the sum of thirty pounds raised by the inhabitants, to enable them to employ good and sufficient teachers, and this bounty extends to three schools in each Parish. By this liberal public provision schooling is brought to the doors of most of the inhabitants, who will exert themselves to partake of the public benefit.
The College of New-Brunswick is established at Fredericton and endowed with a block of land containing nearly six thousand acres adjoining the town plot.
The Governor and Trustees of this College having surrendered their charter to the King, and pet.i.tioned to have the Establishment put on a more enlarged footing; their pet.i.tion was graciously received and a new charter granted, bearing date the eighteenth of November, one thousand eight hundred and twenty-three. A grant of a sum of money was at the same time made to the College out of the royal revenues in this Province, to enable the Corporation to erect a suitable building for the President, Professors and Students; and to procure a Library, and Philosophical apparatus for the same. The Legislature of the Province has likewise granted a liberal sum for the same purpose; in consequence of which a building on a liberal scale is to be immediately erected on a conspicuous part of the rising ground adjoining the town.
The most general seminary for the education of the bulk of the population is the Madras School. The Lieutenant-Governor and a number of the first characters in the Province, have the management of this seminary, which is incorporated by the name of "The Governor and Trustees of the Madras School in New-Brunswick." As most of the Parish Schools in the Province are on the Madras system of education, and under the direction of the corporation, I shall close this short sketch of the state of learning in this Province with a statement of that inst.i.tution copied from the last report.
State of the Madras School in New-Brunswick, in July, 1824, viz.
Saint John, in daily attendance 197 -- total entered 1222 Carleton, " 96 " 143 Fredericton, " 50 " 79 Douglas, " 22 " 45 Queensborough, " " 45 St. Andrews, " 94 " 156 Grand Manan, } " 42 " 89 Grand Harbour, } North Head, " 40 " 76 Westc.o.c.k, " 45 " 118 Sackville, " 40 Shediac, " 30 " 53 Peticodiac, " 45 " 50 Kingston, 113 Springfield, " 24 " 81 Gage Town, " 25 " 117 Suss.e.x Vale, " 38 " 114 Newcastle, " 39 " 166 Northesk, " 42 " 66 Chatham, " 40 " 51 Hampton, " 26 " 75 Norton, " 60 Maugerville, " 28 " 52 " middle district, " 39 Fort c.u.mberland, " 49 " 105 Point Debute, " 52 " 62 Jolicure, " 32 " 50 St. Georges, " 38 " 72 Woodstock, middle } " 36 " 135 district, } Upper District, " 35 " 76 Dow"s District, " 36 Wakefield, middle } " 21 " 90 district, } Lower district, " 21 " 86 Northampton, " 35 Military Settlement } No. 1, } " 38 " 140 No. 2, " 36 " 131 No. 3, " 24 " 159 No. 4, " 24 " 116 Scotch Settlement, " 20 " 36 ----- In July, 1824 4,379 Add the number in the College at Fredericton, as reported last year 357 ----- Total 4,736 In July, 1823 3,396 ----- Increase during the year 1,340
The trade of New-Brunswick may be comprised under the following heads:
EXPORTS TO THE WEST-INDIES.
Boards, shingles, fish, and small articles. The princ.i.p.al return for which is rum, sugar, mola.s.ses, &c.
EXPORTS TO GREAT BRITAIN.
Squared timber, masts, spars, oars, lathwood, deals, furs, &c.
Ship-building forms also a considerable branch of trade at present.
Some of which are built by contract for merchants in Great-Britain, and others are built and loaded by merchants in the Province, and either employed by them in the exportation of lumber, or sold in Britain. The returns for this trade are British merchandise, and specie.
There was formerly a considerable trade carried on with the United States in gypsum, grindstones, smoked salmon, &c. and for a short period in the productions of the West-Indies from the free port of St.
John, (as well as from Halifax in Nova-Scotia.) But the trade in West-India produce is now totally at an end, and the other branches much fallen off, so that most of the flour, corn, and bread stuffs imported from thence is paid for in specie, which is a great drain for the cash of the Province: for there are nearly sixty thousand barrels of wheat and rye flour, and from sixty-five to seventy thousand bushels of indian corn, imported annually, besides corn meal, bread, &c.
The amount of imports in 1824 was five hundred and fourteen thousand five hundred and fifty-seven pounds sterling, and the exports in the same year five hundred and twenty-six thousand nine hundred and twenty-three, exclusive of exports from the port of St. Andrews, which amounted to about one hundred thousand pounds, besides several vessels built at St. Peters, and other places not in the above statement. The gross amount of the revenue collected at the different ports in the Province, in 1824 was forty-four thousand six hundred and seventy pounds two shillings and sixpence, New-Brunswick currency. This when the population of the Country is considered, speaks much for the trade and resources of the Province.
As squared timber is the great staple of this trade, I shall set down the number of tons exported yearly at three different periods, from which the reader may form a pretty correct idea of the quant.i.ty usually shipped in a year.
In 1819 the quant.i.ty was 247,394 Tons.
In 1822 " " 266,450 "
In 1824 " " 321,211 "
The above is the total amount from all the Ports in New-Brunswick.
The following statement will shew the total amount of exports and imports of every description in the year 1824.
IMPORTS AND EXPORTS.