These wines are served with the meat courses. In order that Champagne or Sparkling Burgundy may come on the table at the proper temperature (Champagne 35o and Burgundy 70o F.) it must be ice-packed for several hours before serving. Care must be taken, however, that it does not frappe when, if required at short notice, it is salt-and-ice packed half an hour before serving. Sweet Champagne, on the other hand, is improved in flavor if slightly frappeed. It should always be served very cold. Like Sauterne, Champagne and Burgundy are served from the bottle. In serving them the wire should be cut, and the cork carefully _worked_ out of the bottle by pressing it up with the thumbs. It is wise to work out the cork _under the edge of the table_, since it is sometimes projected with much power. The temperature for Port is 55o F.
CORDIALS AND LIQUEURS
Cordial gla.s.ses holding a small quant.i.ty are used for serving these sweet, aromatic beverages. Cordials are served plain, with crushed ice or with cream. In serving Creme de Menthe the straw is unusual in private home service, though customary in some hotels. Creme de Menthe gla.s.ses should be filled two-thirds full with fine crushed ice, then a little of the cordial poured over it. Chartreuse (green or yellow), Benedictine, Grenadine, Apricot Brandy, Curacoa, and Dantzig Eau de Vie arc usually served without additions or ice. Benedictine or Creme de Cacoa, however, may be served with a dash of plain or whipped cream.
The exceedingly sweet Creme Yvette should he served with cracked ice, like Creme de Menthe. Noyau, Kirschwa.s.ser, Maraschino and Grenadine may be served as cordials, or reserved for the flavoring of puddings, ices and sauces.
CHAPTER X
CARVING HINTS
Whether it be the waitress or the master of the house who carves, a firm hand, an appraising eye and a sharp carving knife are needed.
Some of the chief carving points for roasts are worth knowing.
_Beefsteak (Porterhouse)_: Carve in two pieces, cutting tenderloin and sirloin from the middle bone. Cut in uniformly thick slices, serving a piece for a portion, rare, medium or well done, as may be preferred. _Rib or Sirloin Roast_: Hold firmly, skin side up.
Carve in thin, parallel slices, from crisp edge to bone, then slip knife under slices and cut from bones. _Rump Steak_: Cut in thin, parallel slices with grain of meat. Serve like rib or sirloin with dish gravy for each portion. _Fillet of Beefs_: Cut across diagonally, beginning at thick end. Slices should be no more than half an inch thick. _Leg of Lamb_: With rounding side up, plunge carving fork in center of roast, and cut in thin, parallel slices _across grain_ to bone. Boned leg of lamb is more easily carved. _Saddle of Mutton_: Make cuts parallel to backbone, half to three-quarters inch apart; then crosscuts at right angles to former, two to two and a half inches long. Slip knife beneath bone to free meat. _Loin of Veal or Lamb_: Cut backbone of each rib before cooking. Cut roast between ribs, serving one for a portion. Carve _Crown of Lamb_ in the same way. _Roast Turkey or Roast Chicken, Capon or Guinea Hen_: With bird on back, insert carving fork across highest point of breastbone.
Holding it here firmly, cut through skin between second joint and body, close to the latter. Pull back leg and second joint in one piece with knife; disjoint, then cut off wing. Breast meat must be carved in thin, parallel slices. Use knife to part second joints from drumsticks and carve them in slices. Always complete carving one side of a bird before carving the other. Light meat and dark meat, together with stuffing, should be included in each portion, unless a preference is indicated.
_Broilers_: Should be cut in halves, and the halves halved, severing at joints. According to size of broiler a quarter or a half is served as an individual portion. _Domestic Duck_: Bird on back (drumsticks to right of carver, as with all fowl) the carving fork is thrust through breast. The joints lie much farther back than those of chickens or turkeys. After removing leg and wing, make cuts in breast meat parallel to breastbone, three-quarters of an inch apart, and remove by sliding knife under meat. Small pieces of rich meat, dark, may be cut from the sides of the duck. _Game Duck_: First cut breast meat from one side, then from other. Half a breast is the individual portion. Legs and wings are too tough, as a rule, for satisfactory table use.
CHAPTER XI
PLANNING A MENU
Food value and contrast--the avoidance of duplicating flavors--are main points in menu planning. An elaborate menu must alternate its light and heavy courses.
SOUP
Thin soups for formal dinners, cream or thick soups for informal ones is the rule. With Consomme, Bread or Cheese Sticks; with thick soups Crackers or Croutons; with Oyster Stew, Oyster Crackers are the proper thing. Soup garnishings (clear soup) include: Shredded Sprouts, Boiled Macaroni cut in rings, Noodles, Lemon Slices, Italian Pastes and Grated Parmesan Cheese, and Sliced Cooked Chestnuts and Royal Custard.
Radishes, Celery and Olives are served _after_ the soup.
HORS D"OEVRES
c.o.c.ktails or Canapes beginning a dinner call for plain sandwiches or wafers. When Oysters or Clams (or any seafood c.o.c.ktails) are served, Graham or Brown Bread Sandwiches are grateful. With oysters served raw on sh.e.l.l, a Horseradish Sandwich is proper. Tabasco, Grated Horseradish, Catsup, Cayenne, or c.o.c.ktail Sauce are in order for oysters or clams, and a half lemon should _always_ be laid on the oyster plate.
FISH
Fish flavoring"s include Lemon Juice (lemon sliced with or without the rind, or served in quarters or halves) or Tarragon Vinegar. Sauce Tartare is always appropriate for fried fish. Broiled Halibut or Pompano gain by a Sauce Hollandaise. With Baked or Broiled Shad Cuc.u.mber Cream Sauce is in order. Broiled fish in general should be mated with rich, heavy sauces, and may be accompanied by Boiled Potato b.a.l.l.s, and Maitre d"Hotel b.u.t.ter. When Halibut or Flounder are steamed or baked in fillets, they call for a piquantly flavored sauce: Caper, Brown Tomato, Shrimp or Lobster. Drawn b.u.t.ter Sauce, Caper or Hollandaise Sauce, are best with Boiled Hot Salmon; Green Mayonnaise, Vinaigrette or Sauce Tartare with Cold Boiled Salmon. Vegetables do not properly accompany fish in a dinner of many courses. Yet broiled fish may be served with Corn and Sh.e.l.l Beans; white fish of various sorts with Tomatoes, stuffed or fried; and Salmon with Peas.
ENTREES
Every entree should have the sauce which properly befits it. Patties, however, are not served with the rolls which accompany other entrees, their pastry taking its place. A Puree of Peas may be offered with meat croquettes.
SALADS
For simply dressed salads Cheese b.a.l.l.s or croquettes are appropriate.
Fruit salads require thin, unsugared crackers--they may be served hot, sprinkled with mild paprika over b.u.t.ter. Anything of the sort served with a salad is merely served to _bring out_ its flavor, not to destroy it!
DESSERTS
When the dinner is a heavy or elaborate one the heavy pudding with a rich sauce is distinctly out of keeping. Frappeed or cold desserts are the proper thing, served together with small wafers or cakes. At less formal dinners the sweet dessert may be omitted, and cheese and hard crackers, a fruit salad, or toasted wafers and coffee may be subst.i.tuted.
THE ROASTS
Under this head we will list for the reader"s convenience a grouping of roasts, together with the sauces and vegetables with which they may be combined for menu purposes in a natural and satisfactory manner.
_Beefsteak and Roast Beef:_ As sauces, Mushroom Sauce is appropriate for both; then for Beefsteak we have Sauce Bearnaise, and Maitre d"Hotel b.u.t.ter; for the Roast Beef, Horseradish Sauce, Banana Sauce and as an accompanying dish, Yorkshire Pudding. Accompanying vegetables for both include: Potatoes, white and sweet, Lima and String Beans, Macaroni, Corn, Peas, Spinach and Onions, Eggplant and Squash, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower and Tomatoes.
_Boiled Beef_: Horseradish Sauce is the preferred one, and Dumplings may accompany it. Potatoes (white), Parsnips, Turnips, Carrots are the first concomitants.
_Corned Beef_: Plain Boiled Potatoes and Cabbage are the first concomitants. Spinach or Dandelion Greens, Parsnips, Beets, Turnips and Carrots are also indicated.
_Roast Lamb_: May be accompanied by Banana Croquettes or Bananas baked, by Currant Jelly, Mint Sauce, Mint Jelly or Mint Sherbet. In addition to most of the vegetables already listed, Asparagus, and Jerusalem Artichokes are in order, and Cauliflower may be served with Cream Sauce or _au gratin_.
_Lamb Chops Broiled_: Potatoes in any form desired, Cauliflower or Brussels Sprouts, and practically any green vegetables, _but piquantly served_, are in order.
_Boiled Lamb and Mutton_: Caper Sauce and accompanying Dumplings are in order for both. Potatoes (white) Carrots, Turnips and Parsnips are the vegetables.
_Saddle of Mutton_: Takes all vegetables served with Lamb. It should be served with Currant Jelly or Mint Sauce and, aside from Asparagus, Spinach, French Peas and String Beans, may be accompanied by Fried Rice b.a.l.l.s or Rice Croquettes.
_Fowl in General and Chicken_: These take Cranberry Jelly and Sauce, also Chestnut, Mushroom, Oysters, Celery and Curry Sauce, and fresh Celery. Glazed Sweet Potatoes, Corn Fritters, Croquettes (Rice, Chestnut, Hominy), all fresh summer vegetables, including String and Lima Beans, Mushrooms, Onions and Squash are in order with fowl.
_Roast Turkey_: Here, while we may have Cranberry Sauce or Jelly, we _must_ have crisp, fresh Celery. There is a choice of stuffings --Sausage, Chestnut, Oyster, Sage and Nut. Potatoes (white and sweet), Brussels Sprouts and Cauliflower, Squash, Turnips and Onions are the vegetables.
_Roast Goose_: The vegetables are the same as for Roast Turkey, and Brown Giblet Gravy, Apple Sauce and Celery are accompaniments. The stuffings mentioned for Turkey are also in order here.
_Duck (Domestic)_: The vegetables served for all fowl, plus Fried Hominy if desired, are indicated. Either Boiled or Souffled Onions are a tradition with duck.
_Duck (Game)_: Salads are preferred to vegetables as an accompaniment for Wild Duck. The Salad Greens--any salad green may be used--should be dressed in a simple manner. If preferred, Olive and Orange Jellies and Sauces, and Currant and Plum Jellies, Orange and Cress or Orange and Walnut on Lettuce may be served.
_Roast Grouse or Guinea Hen_: With Bread Sauce may be served Potatoes (as croquettes or French fried), Celery Croquettes, String Beans, Asparagus, and French Peas, also Currant Jelly and Currant Jelly Sauce.
_Quail, Roasted or Broiled_: Green salads in which Orange dominates should accompany this game bird. Ideal ways of serving are: 1. In a nest of Chestnut Puree. 2. On b.u.t.tered Toast. 3. On toast spread with Puree of Cooked Calf"s Liver moistened with Sherry.
_Squab, Roasted or Broiled_: Serve with Currant Jelly and--if offered as a main course at a luncheon--with light vegetables, Mushrooms, Peas, Beans, Asparagus on Toast, Spinach in Puff Paste or Fried Potato b.a.l.l.s.