I landed a 10-inch-wide heavy-duty Italian terra-cotta pot with a flared mouth; when inverted it looked like an earthen cloche. I also picked up a saucer of the same make, large enough so that the mouth of the pot fit neatly inside it. I put these into a cold oven and cranked the heat to full throttle: 550 F. I figured that oven and pot would both be at full heat within 20 minutes.17 I removed a broiler/fryer chicken (2 to 3 pounds) from the fridge and countered it on a clean plate. I removed a broiler/fryer chicken (2 to 3 pounds) from the fridge and countered it on a clean plate.18 When I knew the oven and the pot within had reached their thermal potential, I rubbed the chicken down with a bit of canola oil and sprinkled it with lots of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.19 I very carefully placed the dressed chicken onto the very hot saucer and covered it with the equally hot pot. I chucked this back in the oven and, a.s.suming that there was enough heat stored in the terra-cotta to do the job, turned the oven off and left everything alone for 45 minutes. (See ill.u.s.tration.) I very carefully placed the dressed chicken onto the very hot saucer and covered it with the equally hot pot. I chucked this back in the oven and, a.s.suming that there was enough heat stored in the terra-cotta to do the job, turned the oven off and left everything alone for 45 minutes. (See ill.u.s.tration.)
When I removed my inner oven, it was still two-towel hot, but when I stuck a toweled finger into the drain hole (how convenient) and withdrew the dome I found myself facing a fragrant and deliciously done yet pallid piece of poultry. Hmm. Obviously a kilo of terra-cotta wouldn"t hold as much heat as ten kilos of firebricks. The next time, I left the oven at 550 F for the first 20 minutes of cooking, then killed it until my probe thermometer (I ran the probe wire through the drain hole) chimed 170 F. Perfect. Brown and crusty all over, juicy and flavorful inside. Decidedly superior to a standard oven-roasted bird.
You"re in an airplane that"s just landed. The flight"s over, and yet there"s that voice on the PA telling you that the FAA requires that you remain in your seat with your seat belt fastened until the aircraft has come to a complete stop at the gate. You may be on the ground, but technically the flight is not over. Same thing with a roast. Just because it"s out of the oven doesn"t mean that the cooking"s over-it isn"t. The roast has to coast to its final temperature. Besides, you cut into that hunk now, and juice is going to fly everywhere. Resting gives the heat and pressure inside the meat time to subside, and that allows the juices locked inside to be absorbed back into the meat tissues. So unless your roast has spent half an hour on the counter in heavy-duty foil, leave your seat belt on. (If you like your meats well done, you don"t really need to rest them. The muscle fibers are toast and can"t possibly hold any moisture at all. It"s ruined.) Roast Turkey Why start with a higher temperature? Poultry skin turns brown because it sautes in the thin layer of fat beneath it. If you start the bird at a low temperature, a lot of this fat will simply melt and run away. Starting with high heat gives you a deep brown bird, while the lower finish delivers moist, evenly cooked meat.
Application: RoastingTo brine the turkey: dissolve the salt, sugar, and juice concentrate in 1 quart of hot water. Cool the solution with 3 quarts of cold water. Remove the giblets (and any other foreign matter) from the turkey interior and place in the cooler. Pour in the brine mixture to cover. If the bird is not completely submerged, add more liquid. (Since I don"t want to weaken the solution, I use canned chicken broth.)Cover with ice, close the lid, and soak the turkey for 6 to 8 hours. (Exact soak times will vary per your taste. Start with 6 hours and make changes to subsequent birds.)When the bird has hour left to soak, move the oven rack to the lowest level and preheat the oven to 500 F. Remove the turkey from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Rub the turkey liberally with canola oil. (Be sure to get all the nooks and crannies around the wings.) Discard the brine and thoroughly wash the cooler. Place the turkey on a roasting rack inside 2 disposable aluminum roasting pans.Roast at 500 F for hour. Remove the bird from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 350 F.Cover the turkey breast with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil folded into a triangle. Insert a probe thermometer into the thickest part of the breast (push it right through the foil) and set the thermometer to 161 F. A 16- to 18-pound bird should arrive at the target temperature in 2 to 2 hours. Remove the turkey from the oven, cover the bird and the pan loosely with aluminum foil, and allow to rest for 15 minutes before carving.Yield: 10 to 12 servingsSoftware: For the brine: For the brine: 1 cups kosher salt cup dark brown sugar One 6-ounce container of frozen orange juice concentrate 1 gallon water One 16- to 18-pound turkey 1 gallon of ice cubes Canola oil Hardware: 1 large pot 1 large pot 1 large cooler with lid Paper towels Roasting rack 2 disposable aluminum roasting pans Heavy-duty aluminum foil Probe thermometer
TURKEY RULES.
Stuffing is evil. Traditional stuffings soak up meat juices, meaning a potential for the presence of salmonella unless the temperature of the stuffing reaches 165 F. That increases the cooking time of the turkey, which means dry meat. If you cannot live without stuffing, cook it in a ca.s.serole dish then spoon it into the cavity prior to serving.Basting is evil. Skin is waterproof, so flavor and moisture will not soak through it. Besides, you have to open the door to baste, which lets heat out of the oven. That increases the cooking time of the turkey, which means dry meat-so don"t do it.
Dry-Aged Standing Rib Roast Application: RoastingTo dry-age the roast: Place a refrigerator thermometer at the back of the bottom shelf of your refrigerator. Reduce the temperature to just below 38 F. Cover the bottom of a roasting pan with several layers of paper towels. Place the roast, bone side down, on the towels, and store-uncovered-at the back of the bottom shelf of your refrigerator. Allow the meat to age for 3 to 5 days, checking the refrigerator temperature often.When you"re ready to roast, let the meat sit out of the refrigerator for 1 hour until it reaches room temperature. Preheat the oven to 250 F for hour. If you"re planing to roast in an unglazed terra-cotta vessel, place it in the oven while it"s still cold and heat at 250 F for 45 minutes to 1 hour.Rub the roast with just enough canola oil to make it shine, then rub with the salt and pepper. Place the meat in a shallow roasting pan, bone side down (to prevent the meat from sitting in liquid). Insert the probe of your thermometer into the center of the roast and set for 118 F. Place the roast in the oven and reduce the temperature to 200 F.When the meat has reached 118 F (about 4 hours), remove the roast and cover lightly with foil. Raise the oven temperature to 500 F. When the oven reaches 500 F, let it heat for another 15 minutes, then return the roast to the oven until the desired degree of crust is achieved, about 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the roast to a cutting board and cover with foil until ready to serve.Place the roasting pan with its acc.u.mulated juices on the cook-top over medium heat and deglaze the pan with 1 cup of water. Allow the liquid to come to a boil, sc.r.a.ping occasionally until any bits stuck to the pan are freed. Add the wine and then transfer the liquid to a gravy separator. Allow five minutes for separation of fat from juice and then pour the liquid (but not the fat) back into the pan. Add the leek and return to a simmer. Stir in the garlic b.u.t.ter and serve over lovely, red slabs of goodness.Yield: 10 servings Software: One 4-bone-in standing rib roast, One 4-bone-in standing rib roast, preferably from the loin end (for its higher meat-to-bone ratio) Canola oil 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper 1 cup water 1 cup red wine cup thinly sliced leek 1 to 2 tablespoons garlic b.u.t.ter or unsalted b.u.t.ter Hardware: Refrigerator thermometer Refrigerator thermometer Roasting pan or unglazed terra-cotta vessel with lid Paper towels Probe thermometer Heavy-duty aluminum foil Gravy separator terra-cotta vessel with lid Heavy-duty aluminum foil Gravy separator
A Perfect Baked Potato This application provides a crisp crust and a tender interior. If you feel the need for speed, you can start the potato in the microwave. Let it cook on high for 9 to 12 minutes, but then finish it in the oven.
Application: RoastingPreheat oven to 350 F.Wash the potato with a vegetable brush and dry with paper towels. With the fork, poke holes all over the potato surface. This will allow steam inside the potato to release as it heats, which will result in a great fluffy texture. Pour a small amount of canola oil into a bowl, add the potato and turn until the entire surface is lightly coated with the oil. This not only makes for a slightly crunchy skin, because the oil can get so much hotter than the water inside the potato, it will regulate the moisture. Sprinkle the potato skin with the kosher salt.Place the potato directly on the rack in the center of the oven. A medium-size russet should be fully cooked in about 1 hour. To check for doneness, give the potato a squeeze (wearing fireproof gloves). If the skin feels kind of crunchy but the meat inside is soft, it"s time to eat.Yield: 1 perfect baked potatoSoftware: 1 medium-size high-starch potato 1 medium-size high-starch potato (russet or Idaho) Canola oil Kosher salt Hardware: Vegetable brush Vegetable brush Paper towels Fork Small bowl Fireproof gloves
Meatloaf There are a million ways to make meatloaf (another roasted dish that we call "baked"), and I"m not about to say that this is the only way. You can play around with the seasonings all day, you can even trade off some chuck for round. However, I do strongly suggest that you pick out a nice roast at your market, take it to the meat counter, and ask the butcher to grind it for you.
Application: RoastingPreheat oven to 350 F.In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs together. Using your hands, combine the rest of the ingredients and blend together. Now is the time to taste your food so you can adjust the seasonings if necessary. So, heat up a small pan and make a tiny patty of the mixture and cook it. If it tastes good, put the uncooked meat mixture into a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan and bake on a rack over a sheet pan. (If the cooked patty doesn"t taste good, adjust the seasonings, cook, and taste again). Cook for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Once out of the oven allow the meatloaf to rest in the pan on a rack for an additional 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the meatloaf from the pan and discard the rendered fat. Think about your mom, slice and serve.Yield: 1 to 8 servings, depending on how hungry you areNote: I always sweat the onions before adding them to a mixture such as this-the taste will be sweeter. To sweat onion (or any aromatic vegetable), heat a small amount of fat (oil or b.u.t.ter) in a small saute pan. Add the diced onion and stir to coat with the oil, cover, and cook slowly over low heat until transparent but not browned. I always sweat the onions before adding them to a mixture such as this-the taste will be sweeter. To sweat onion (or any aromatic vegetable), heat a small amount of fat (oil or b.u.t.ter) in a small saute pan. Add the diced onion and stir to coat with the oil, cover, and cook slowly over low heat until transparent but not browned.Software: 2 large eggs 2 large eggs 2 pounds ground beef chuck 1 cups diced onion 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 slices white sandwich bread, diced 3 tablespoons ketchup teaspoon paprika 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Hardware: Large mixing bowl Large mixing bowl Small saute pan Loaf pan Rack Sheet pan
Roasted Beet and Broccoli Slaw Roasting has the uncanny ability to highlight complex flavors that are often washed away by wet cooking methods. The intense flavor of the beets in this slaw is always a surprise and delight.
Application: RoastingPreheat the oven to 425 F. Wrap the beets in aluminum foil and roast for about 1 hours, until they are tender but still firm when pierced with a paring knife. When the beets are cool enough to handle, peel with a paring knife and shred through the large holes of a box grater. Shred the broccoli stems. In a mixing bowl, stir together the oil, vinegar, and sugar. Season the vinaigrette with salt and white pepper. Add the beets, broccoli stems, and onions and toss with the vinaigrette; place in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 1 hour, or preferably overnight.Yield: 4 side servingsSoftware: 2 large yellow beets (red beets are 2 large yellow beets (red beets are fine, but the whole slaw will be a deep red) 2 stems from broccoli, peeled (eat the florets some other time) cup olive oil 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar Kosher salt Freshly ground white pepper cup red onions, sliced thinly Hardware: Aluminum foil Aluminum foil Paring knife Box grater Mixing bowl
Beets are one of my favorite foods--roasted, boiled, pickled--there"s no way I won"t eat beets.
Slow-Roast Tomatoes Roasting doesn"t have to be performed at high temperatures. In fact you"re only limited by how low your oven will go.Ever wondered what to do with a bounty of summer tomatoes? These homemade "sun-dried" tomatoes beat anything you could buy. Try them warm right out of the oven on toasted country bread with basil and extra extra-virgin olive oil. Add them to salads, soups, risotto, pizza or yes-spaghetti sauce. Bagged and tagged, they"ll keep a month in the refrigerator, or you can freeze them for a century or two.
Application: RoastingPreheat the oven to 170 F (or the lowest temperature setting on your oven).Place tomato halves closely together, cut side up, on 2 half sheet pans. Drizzle the tomatoes with the oil, and then sprinkle the sugar over the tops, followed by the herb mixture, and finish with the salt and pepper.Roast in the oven for a minimum of 10 hours. (Start right after dinner and leave the tomatoes in the oven overnight. When your alarm clock goes off the next morning, you"ll think you"re in Provence.)Yield: 40 tomatoesSoftware: 20 ripe tomatoes, halved crosswise 20 ripe tomatoes, halved crosswise cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons mixed fresh herbs including thyme, rosemary, and sage, minced 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper (a coa.r.s.e grind is best) Hardware: 2 half sheet pans with racks if 2 half sheet pans with racks if possible. (I haven"t been able to find racks that I like for my half sheet pans so I bought a heavy-duty full sheet pan model at my favorite restaurant supply shop and cut the thing in half with a hack saw.)
Roasted Tomato Soup Application: RoastingDuring the last 20 minutes of cooking the tomatoes, begin preparing the rest of the ingredients for the soup. Put the olive oil into a 6-quart stockpot and set over medium heat. When it starts to ripple, add the bell pepper, onions, garlic and a heavy pinch of salt and gently saute until the peppers and onions are tender, approximately 10 to 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes, chicken broth, and balsamic vinegar, then boost the heat and bring to a boil. Then back off the heat and hold a low simmer for 20 minutes. If you have a food mill, gently ladle in the soup and mill away to remove the skins. Otherwise, hit it with your stick blender and be prepared to floss.Yield: 4 to 6 servings Software: 1 recipe AB"s 1 recipe AB"s Slow-Roast Tomatoes Slow-Roast Tomatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large red bell pepper, seeded and chopped fine 1 cup onion, chopped fine 3 large cloves garlic, minced 2 cups chicken broth 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Hardware: Cutting board Cutting board Chef"s knife 6-quart stockpot Food mill or stick blender
Turkey and Fig Breakfast Meatloaf Application: RoastingPreheat oven to 400 F.Boil the grape juice in a small saucepan until it"s reduced to 2 tablespoons. Remove and cool slightly.In a mixing bowl, combine the turkey, breadcrumbs, figs, salt, pepper, thyme, nutmeg, and ginger. Stir in the grape juice reduction. Halve the mixture and shape into two 6 x 2-inch loaves. Place the loaves on a half sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Bake until the internal temperature hits 155 F, approximately 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and rest 15 minutes before carving.Yield: 4 to 6 servings Software: cup white grape juice cup white grape juice 1 pound ground turkey cup dried breadcrumbs 2 ounces dried figs, chopped fine, approximately cup 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon dried thyme, crushed by hand teaspoon ground nutmeg teaspoon ground ginger Hardware: 1-quart saucepan 1-quart saucepan Cutting board Chef"s knife Digital kitchen scale Large mixing bowl Parchment paper Half sheet pan
Darned good at breakfast.
CHAPTER 4.
Frying
Americans adore fried foods and yet we"re willing to entrust the process to tenth graders wearing polyester smocks and funny hats...strange.
I Fry
YOU: What the heck"s so great about frying? What the heck"s so great about frying?
ME : Remember the mean Terminator in Remember the mean Terminator in Terminator 2 Terminator 2?
YOU: The guy that was made out of that liquid metal stuff? The guy that was made out of that liquid metal stuff?
ME: Imagine having a pan made out of that stuff. That"s what frying"s like. Imagine having a pan made out of that stuff. That"s what frying"s like.
YOU: How"s that? How"s that?
ME : Because you fry in fat, and fat"s dry. Because you fry in fat, and fat"s dry.
YOU: But it"s a liquid. But it"s a liquid.
M E: Just because it"s a liquid doesn"t mean it"s wet. Mercury"s a liquid. Just because it"s a liquid doesn"t mean it"s wet. Mercury"s a liquid.
YOU: Well, it doesn"t matter. Fried food"s greasy. Well, it doesn"t matter. Fried food"s greasy.
ME: Not if you do it right. Not if you do it right.
Fat is one of the three substances that act as both ingredient and cooking medium, and yet it brings something to the party that neither of the others can. Sure water can add flavor to simmered foods (especially to foods that must be hydrated, such as pasta and rice) and air can also carry flavor in the form of that wondrous vapor, smoke. But in both of these instances additives are required. Frying adds flavor simply through the interaction of the fat with the target food.
Fact: American home cooks have turned their backs on frying. They say that it"s unhealthy-that it will make them fat and plug their hearts and give them cancer and G.o.d knows what else. American home cooks have turned their backs on frying. They say that it"s unhealthy-that it will make them fat and plug their hearts and give them cancer and G.o.d knows what else.
Fact: American per capita consumption of frozen potato products is thirty pounds a year, almost all in the form of fast-food fries. This of course doesn"t include all those orders of fried calamari-and hush puppies and fried fish planks down at Admiral D"s. Obviously, something"s going on here. American per capita consumption of frozen potato products is thirty pounds a year, almost all in the form of fast-food fries. This of course doesn"t include all those orders of fried calamari-and hush puppies and fried fish planks down at Admiral D"s. Obviously, something"s going on here.
In practical terms, here"s how my fry world breaks down.
Pan-Frying uses enough oil to come one-third to halfway up the side of the food. Unlike sauteing, the food is not moved around during cooking. Unlike deep-frying, the food is not immersed in the cooking medium. Pan-frying is most commonly the first step of a hybrid cooking method, and is followed by pan-braising. In this method the food is dredged, fried in very little fat until a crust forms, then liquid is added and the pan is covered. The food finishes cooking via stewing, and the flour that hasn"t already gelled into a crust becomes available for thickening the liquid into a sauce. uses enough oil to come one-third to halfway up the side of the food. Unlike sauteing, the food is not moved around during cooking. Unlike deep-frying, the food is not immersed in the cooking medium. Pan-frying is most commonly the first step of a hybrid cooking method, and is followed by pan-braising. In this method the food is dredged, fried in very little fat until a crust forms, then liquid is added and the pan is covered. The food finishes cooking via stewing, and the flour that hasn"t already gelled into a crust becomes available for thickening the liquid into a sauce.
Immersion-Frying (a.k.a. Deep-Fat Frying): food is completely immersed in the medium. Unless the food is very high in both water content and starch content (such as potatoes or sweet potatoes), the food needs to be protected from the intense heat and turbulence by either a batter or dredge.
Sauteing: in sauteing, there is barely enough oil to cover the bottom of a wide, shallow, heavy and hot pan. The target foods are ideally small and uniformly cut. (A saute is often erroneously called a stir-fry, which is actually performed at even higher temperatures and is not included here because most of us can"t consistently produce that much heat at home.) in sauteing, there is barely enough oil to cover the bottom of a wide, shallow, heavy and hot pan. The target foods are ideally small and uniformly cut. (A saute is often erroneously called a stir-fry, which is actually performed at even higher temperatures and is not included here because most of us can"t consistently produce that much heat at home.)
Pan- and Immersion-Frying
What makes pan-frying different from immersion-frying? For one thing the food is touching the pan bottom as well as the fat. This provides for darker browning and thus a more intense flavor. Also, the food is not immersed; that is, one half of the food is always exposed to the air. This is especially important when the food first enters the pan and the top side is raw. Unlike with foods that are immersed, heat is pushing into pan-fried food from one side only. (See ill.u.s.tration, above.)
Pan-fry: oil comes to up side of food. Food still has contact with bottom of pan.
Immersion-frying is like a siege. The hot oil surrounds the food and looks for ways in. The water at the surface of the food defends its home by turning to vapor and pushing out in all directions (why most foods seem to boil furiously at the beginning of the process), which is a good reason not to over-fill the vessel.
As the water vapor exits the food, it is replaced by moisture moving up from the food"s interior. The same thing happens to the moisture in a baking potato, which explains why the center of a properly cooked french fry tastes pretty much like a baked potato.
Fried food cooks so fast that it"s actually tough to determine whether it does so via conduction or internal steam; at the very least it"s a combination of the two.
Anatomy of a French Fry
SECRETS TO MAKING GREAT FRIES.