Figs.--If red spider should be observed, wash the flues or the walls exposed to the sun with lime and sulphur.
Melons.--Those lately planted out to be encouraged with a close, moist heat, to get them into free growth as quickly as possible. The plants that are fairly established to be kept cooler, admitting air at every favourable opportunity, to produce short-jointed fruitful wood. The shoots to be kept thin and regular, pinching out any that are not wanted. The night temperature not to exceed 65, and air to be admitted as soon as the thermometer rises to 75; but to be given very cautiously during cold winds. Prepare for raising plenty of young plants for succession crops, and endeavour to have them strong and vigorous by keeping them near the gla.s.s; to be provided, when they require it, with plenty of pot-room. Keep up the heat in the beds by renewing the linings; the coverings at night to be regulated in accordance with the heat of the beds, taking care that the mats do not hang over either the front or back of the frames.
Mushrooms.--Collect materials for fresh beds, and give those that have been some time in bearing good soakings of manure water; sprinkle the floor and heating apparatus occasionally. The conditions of success are to have the materials for making the beds well prepared and sweet--that is, free from rank steam, and the sp.a.w.n to be put in whilst the heat keeps regular and moderate, and the beds are coated over to keep it so until the sp.a.w.n is well established.
Peaches.--Remove all superfluous shoots, and tie in neatly those that are left; thin the fruit that is swelling off before stoning, leaving more than may be ultimately required, as, in stoning, it is liable to drop off. Syringe the trees daily in fine weather. Where it is intended to force Peaches, Cherries, &c., in pots next season, and some suitable trees have to be provided, it should be no longer postponed. It is a good plan to pot some maiden plants every year, to succeed any that may become useless.
Pines.--Give plants swelling their fruit plenty of manure water, and a humid atmosphere. The fruiting-house may range from 80 to 85 during the day, and as near 70 as possible at night; the succession-pits from 75 to 80 during day, and 60 to 65 at night.
These particulars to be modified by the state of the weather, whether sunny or dull.
Strawberries.--They require plenty of light and air to set their fruit, when they may be removed without fear of injury to a stove, or any other house or pit possessing a higher temperature. The plants swelling their fruit require a liberal supply of water, and a sprinkling overhead daily. When the fruit begins to change colour the sprinkling to be dispensed with, and the supply of water at the roots to be given sparingly.
Vines.--If the Grapes are colouring, a free circulation of air, accompanied with a high temperature, will be advantageous. Attention to be given, where fermenting materials have been used for warming the borders, that the heat is not allowed to decline at present under the influence of the March winds. Attend to last week"s advice as to tying, disbudding, &c., and proceed with the thinning the fruit in the succession-house as soon as the berries are fairly set.
When thinning be as careful as possible of the bunches--neither pull them about with the hand, by which rust on the berries is frequently produced, nor with whatever the shoulders may be held up by at the time of thinning, as, by the twisting of the stalks, shanking is not unfrequently produced. Attention to be given in stopping all laterals, and breaking off all useless shoots for the more free admission of light, which is most beneficial in every stage of their growth. Look over houses where the fruit is swelling, and see if any of the bunches would be improved by tying up the shoulders. Any healthy Vines, but not of good kinds, should be inarched before the wood gets too old.
APRIL.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The shifting and repotting of all specimen plants in these houses have been completed, I hope, before this time; but if not, the sooner they are done the better. Keep up a moist atmosphere, sprinkling the plants with tepid water twice or thrice a week; and pay attention to the destruction of insects the moment you can perceive them.
Camellias.--As the plants go out of bloom, it is advisable to syringe them freely, shutting up early with solar heat, and maintaining a kindly humidity during the time they are making their growth.
Fuchsias.--Supply them liberally with water when in full growth, and shade slightly during bright sunshine.
Heaths.--To be kept free from strong currents of dry air; rambling growth to be stopped.
Liliums.--Give them a liberal supply of water, and a top dressing of turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed cowdung.
New Holland Plants.--Give such plants as young Boronias, Dillwynias, Dracophyllums, Eriostemons, Leschenaultias, Pimeleas, Polygalas, &c., a tolerably-close corner of the house; stop the young growth as it may require it; keep them clean, and repot them when necessary.
Pelargoniums.--Tie and stake the larger plants neatly, without loss of time, and shift the smaller ones into larger pots. The roots will feed greedily on oyster-sh.e.l.ls, broken very fine at the bottom of the pot. Put in cuttings for flowering in September and October.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Keep up a sweet, moist atmosphere with a regular circulation of air, using an abundance of water about the floors; and syringe frequently air plants and others suspended. Shut up a solar heat, if possible, of 80 towards three or four o"clock.
Achimenes.--Shift them, and also _Gesneras_, and pot others for succession.
Begonias.--When the flowers begin to decline, the plants may be reduced, and potted into smaller pots, and be kept close for some time afterwards. Put in cuttings of them, if not attended to before; and also cuttings of _Eranthemums_, _Euphorbias_, _Gesneras_, _Justicias_, _Linums_, &c.
Clerodendrons.--Give them plenty of room and encouragement to grow.
Orchids.--They should have a mild, but regularly moist, atmosphere for a few weeks until they begin to grow; no water to be applied until that period, and then with moderation.
FORCING-PIT.
Get in Balsams, c.o.c.ks...o...b.., Globe Amaranthuses, and other such plants from the dung-frame, that will be useful for the summer and autumn decoration of the greenhouse and conservatory.
FORCING-HOUSE.
Cherries.--If all the petals have dropped, and the fruit is set, the temperature may be raised to 60 by day and 50 by night, and syringed in the evening three or four times during the week. A sharp look out should be kept for curled leaves, and the grubs that nestle in them destroyed.
Figs.--If the fruit is swelling off, supply the trees liberally with water; stop the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye.
Temperature, 65 by day and 55 by night.
Melons.--The supply of air and water must be regulated by the state of the weather and the temperature of the bed. The plants sometimes show one or two fruit at an early period of their growth, which should be picked off, as they would prevent the swelling off of others. The vines, or shoots, after being frequently stopped, and when they have nearly filled the frame, or other allotted s.p.a.ce, several fruit should be impregnated at one time. Sow for successional crop.
Peaches and Nectarines.--Pinch off laterals, and tie in the shoots as they advance in growth. If green fly makes its appearance, fumigate the house; but if only a few shoots are infested, dip them in tobacco water. When the fruit in the early house are stoned, thin them to the number you wish to retain, and use a pair of scissors, which is better than pulling them off.
Pine Apples.--The plants should now be making rapid growth, and, therefore, will require a liberal supply of water. Fruiting plants may now be turned out of their pots into prepared beds, selecting those that are not very forward. The fruiting-house may range from 80 to 85 during day, and from 65 to 70 at night. The successions from 75 to 80 by day, and from 65 to 70 at night.
Strawberries.--When out of bloom, give them a liberal supply of water, syringe freely, and keep down insects by fumigation.
Vines.--If forcing were begun early in December, whether with Vines in pots or established vines, the colouring process will have now commenced. When such is the case, admit air freely on all favourable opportunities; but avoid draughts, or cutting winds, which frequently cause rust and other imperfections in the bunches. In the later houses, attend to thinning, tying, and stopping laterals. The last house to be closed early in the afternoon. As the buds, in most cases, will be considerably advanced, it is advisable to syringe frequently; to apply plenty of moisture to the floors and paths; and to postpone the application of fire-heat as long as possible.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Some of the most hardy and woody plants may be removed from the greenhouse to a cold pit, where they can be protected from frost.
It will make more room for the Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, and other such plants.
Azaleas.--Such as have done blooming to be repotted, and their fresh growth to be gently promoted in a higher temperature for a short time.
Camellias.--Continue to keep a moist atmosphere about the plants making wood, with a temperature of about 65 by day and 55 by night. Air to be given at all opportunities, to produce st.u.r.dy, short-jointed wood. The plants in flower to be shaded during bright sunshine.
Cinerarias.--Regular attention to be given to them, that they may not suffer by want of water.
Climbers.--Regulate them as they grow, more particularly those in pots which are intended to cover a wire trellis. Kennedyas, Thunbergias, Nierembergias, Tropaeolums, and other such plants of a slender and tender habit, delight in a soil the greater proportion being composed of leaf mould.
Chrysanthemums.--Strike cuttings, and pot off rooted suckers.
Heaths.--Any requiring repotting, should receive that attention without delay, apportioning the size of the pot to the vigour of their growth; as the free-growing kinds will require more room than the less vigorous ones.
New Holland Plants.--As many of them are now either in flower, or approaching that state, they will, consequently, require a larger quant.i.ty of water,--more especially large specimens not shifted since last season. Continue to pinch off the tops of the leading shoots, to produce bushy plants.
Pelargoniums.--Attention to be given in tying up, watering, and fumigating, if the green fly appears.