"Yes," she replied, "just like a potato--_en robe de chambre_."

We could hear him as he left the room, followed by the basket, muttering to himself, "Soie! robe de chambre! Soie! robe de chambre!" in his most satirical tone. I began to feel a little nervous about it myself, and wondered if for this broth there had not been too many cooks.

We went out before dinner to see the famous carp; I looked in vain for the one with the ring in its nose.

At dinner, besides the Household, were the Princess Mathilde, Monsieur Ollivier, Monsieur Perriere, the Duke de Persigny, Baron Haussmann, and several statesmen.

The corn came in due time served as _legume_.

I was mortified when I saw it appear, brought in on eight enormous silver platters, four ears on each. It looked pitiful! Silk, _robe de chambre_ and all, steaming like a steam-engine. Every one looked aghast, and no one dared to touch it; and when I wanted to show them how it was eaten in its native land they screamed with laughter. Baron Haussmann asked me if the piece I was playing (he meant on the flute) was in _la-bemol_?

I looked to the Baroness de Pierres for support; but, alas! her eyes refused to meet mine and were fixed on her plate.

I tried to make the corn less objectionable by unwrapping the cobs and cutting off the corn. Then I added b.u.t.ter and salt, and it was pa.s.sed about; first, of course, to the Emperor, who liked it very much; but the Empress pushed her plate aside with a grimace, saying, "I don"t like it; it smells like a baby"s flannels."

The Emperor, seeing the crushed look on my face, raised his gla.s.s and said, with a kind glance at me, "Here"s to the American corn!" I reproached the Princess Metternich for having suggested my taking it there.

COMPIeGNE, _November 22, 1866._

DEAR A.,--You know it has always been my wish to see the life at Compiegne, and behold, here I am!

We received the invitation twelve days ago. It reads thus:

MAISON DE L"EMPEREUR

_Palais des Tuileries, le 10 Novembre 1866.

Premier Chambellan_

Monsieur,

Par ordre de l"Empereur, j"ai l"honneur de vous prevenir que vous etes invite, ainsi que Madame Charles Moulton, a pa.s.ser huit jours au Palais de Compiegne, du 22 au 29 Novembre.

Des voitures de la Cour vous attendront le 22, a l"arrivee a Compiegne du train partant de Paris a 2 heures 1/2, pour vous conduire au Palais.

Agreez, Monsieur, l"a.s.surance de ma consideration tres distinguee.

_Le Premier Chambellan_.

V"te de Laferriere.

Monsieur, Madame Charles Moulton.

This gave me plenty of time to order all my dresses, wraps, and everything else that I needed for this visit of a week to royalty.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE MAIN FAcADE--CHaTEAU DE COMPIeGNE]

I was obliged to have about twenty dresses, eight day costumes (counting my traveling suit), the green cloth dress for the hunt, which I was told was absolutely necessary, seven ball dresses, five gowns for tea. Such a quant.i.ty of boxes and bundles arrived at the house in Paris that Mademoiselle Wissembourg was in a blue fidget, fussing about, boring me with silly, unnecessary suggestions, and asking so many useless questions that I wished her at the bottom of the Red Sea.

A professional packer came to pack our trunks, of which I had seven and C---- had two; the maid and the valet each had one, making, altogether, quite a formidable pile of luggage. As we saw it on the wagon driven from the house, it seemed an absurdly large amount for only a week"s visit.

We arrived at the St. Lazare Station at 2.30, as indicated on the invitation.

We found the Vicomte Walsh (the Chamberlain of the Emperor) waiting to show the guests where the train was. It would have been rather difficult not to have seen it, as it was the only one in the station, and was marked "Extra and Imperial."

There were several large salon carriages with large, comfortable _fauteuils_, and some tables covered with newspapers and _journaux ill.u.s.tres_ to beguile the time. It would take too much time to tell you the names of all the people I recognized at the station; but in the carriage with us were the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess Fernan Nunez, Madame de Bourgogne (whose husband is Equerry of the Emperor), the two Princes Murat, Joachim and Achille, Monsieur Davilliers, Count Golz (the German Amba.s.sador), Baron Haussmann and his daughter, and Mr. de Radowitz of the German emba.s.sy, who immediately stretched himself out contentedly in a comfortable arm-chair and fell fast asleep.

I should say there were about fifty or sixty guests.

We actually flew over land and dale. I never traveled so fast in all my life; but then I had never been in an Imperial train before. We did not stop until we reached the station of Compiegne.

I think the whole twelve thousand inhabitants of Compiegne were gathered there to stare at us, and they did stare persistently, until we had mounted the many equipages waiting for us and had driven away.

It certainly must have been very entertaining for them to see the long procession of carriages, the hundreds of trunks, the flurrying maids, and the self-important valets.

There were two landaus: one for the Metternichs and one for the German Amba.s.sador.

The _chars-a-bancs_, of which there must have been at least ten, were dark green outlined with red, each with four prancing horses whose tails, jauntily braided with red cords, were tied to the saddles.

Each carriage had two postilions, who looked very trim in their short velvet jackets embroidered with gold and covered with endless b.u.t.tons.

They wore white breeches, long top-boots, black-velvet caps over their white wigs, and their little pigtails, tied with a black bow, hung down their backs, flapping up and down as they galloped.

The Princess Metternich had fourteen trunks and two maids; the Prince had his private secretary and valet, and a goodly number of trunks. This will give you a vague idea of the amount of baggage which had to be transported in the _fourgons_.

Don"t you think we must have made a very imposing spectacle, as we rattled through the quiet town of Compiegne, over its old stone pavement, the postilions blowing their horns, cracking their whips, the horses galloping full speed, the _chars-a-bancs_ filled with handsomely dressed ladies, and after this long procession came the maids and the valets and mountainous piles of baggage?

When we entered the _grande cour_ (inclosure), the sentinels grasped their guns and saluted, as we pa.s.sed by them, before we pulled up in front of the grand staircase of the chateau, where an army of lackeys were waiting to help us alight.

The Grand Chamberlain received us at the head of the stairs with pleasant cordiality and waved us toward a _huissier_, who, dressed in a black livery with heavy chains around his neck, looked very important. He, in his turn, pa.s.sed us on to the particular valet allotted to us, who pompously and with great dignity showed us the way to our apartments.

Our names were on the doors, and we entered the brilliantly lighted rooms, which, after our journey, seemed most welcome with their bright fires and cheerful aspect.

Tea and chocolate were on the table waiting us, and I regaled myself while the soldiers (who seem to be the men-of-all-work here) brought in the trunks and the maid and valet were unpacking.

I must describe our rooms. We have a large salon, two bedrooms, two servants" rooms, and an antechamber. In the salon there are two long windows which reach to the floor and overlook the park. The walls are paneled with pink and mauve brocade. The covering of the furniture and the curtains are of the same stuff.

My bedroom is furnished in white and green with a delightful _chaise longue_ and large _fauteuils_, which to me are more inviting than the stiff Empire style of the salon.

I made my toilette in a maze of excitement; my maid was confused and agitated, and I thought I should never be ready. I think you will be interested to hear what I wore to-night. It was light-green tulle, embroidered in silver, the waist trimmed with silver fringe. If one could see the waistband, one would read WORTH in big letters. I thought it was best to make a good impression at the start, so I put on my prettiest gown.

On leaving our apartment, a little before seven, we found the lackey waiting to show us the way to the _Grande Salle des Fetes_, and we followed his plump white calves through the long corridors, arriving at last at the salon where the company was to a.s.semble.

Here we found more white calves belonging to the gorgeous liveries and the powdered heads of the lackeys, who stood there to open the doors for all comers. We were not the last, but of the latest, to arrive.

The salon seemed immense to me. On one side the windows (or rather the doors) opened on to the terrace; on the opposite side of the walls, between the pillars, were mirrors resting on gilded consoles. At one end of the room was the statue of Laet.i.tia Bonaparte (_Madame Mere_), and at the other end was one of Napoleon I. Banquettes and tabourets of Gobelins tapestry stood against the walls. The ceiling is a _chef-d"oeuvre_ of Girodet--_style Empire_.

The Vicomte de Laferriere and the d.u.c.h.esse de Ba.s.sano, the _grande maitresse_, came forward to receive the guests.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SALLE DES FeTES--CHaTEAU DE COMPIeGNE]

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