VOL. II.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty.
1835.
CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
PORTUGAL.
LETTER I.
Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening ramble. Page 5
LETTER II.
Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.--Piety and gin.--Rapid progress of Methodism.--Freaks of fortune.--Pernicious extravagance.--Minerals.--Mr. Beauchamp"s mansion.--Beautiful lake.--The wind still contrary. 8
LETTER III.
A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected dreams. 12
LETTER IV.
A bl.u.s.tering night.--Tedium of the language of the compa.s.s.--Another excursion to Trefusis. 16
LETTER V.
Regrets produced by contrasts. 19
LETTER VI.
Still no prospect of embarkation.--Pen-dennis Castle.--Luxuriant vegetation.--A serene day.--Antic.i.p.ations of the voyage. 21
LETTER VII.
Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal labyrinths in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture in petticoats.--Force of education.--Royalty without power.--Return from the Palace. 23
LETTER VIII.
Glare of the climate in Portugal.--Apish luxury.--Botanic Gardens.--Acafatas.--Description of the Gardens and Terraces. 29
LETTER IX.
Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley of Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the Marialva Palace.--Its much revered Masters.--Collection of rarities.--The Viceroy of Algarve.--Polyglottery.--A night-scene.--Modinhas.--Extraordinary Procession.--Blessings of Patriarchal Government. 34
LETTER X.
Festival of the Corpo de Deos.--Striking decoration of the streets.--The Patriarchal Cathedral.--Coming forth of the Sacrament in awful state.--Gorgeous procession.--Bewildering confusion of sounds. 47
LETTER XI.
Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S----.--His Brazilian wife.--Magnificent Repast.--A tragic damsel. 51
LETTER XII.
Pa.s.s the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring Monastery.--Habitation of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the edge of the Tagus.--Fire-works.--Images of the Holy One of Lisbon. 55
LETTER XIII.
The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic Sermon.--The good Prior of Avia.--Visit to the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking effigy of the Saviour.--A young and melancholy Carthusian.--The Cemetery. 59
LETTER XIV.
Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragam.u.f.fins.--Visit to the Theatre in the Rua d"os Condes.--The Archbishop Confessor.--Brazilian Modinhas.--Bewitching nature of that music.--Nocturnal processions.--Enthusiasm of the young Conde de Villanova.--No accounting for fancies. 68
LETTER XV.
Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night-sounds of the city.--Public gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit to the Anjeja Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvellous narrations of a young priest.--Convent of Savoyard nuns.--Father Theodore"s chickens.--Sequestered group of beauties.--Singing of the Scarlati. 77
LETTER XVI.
Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows of the Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre Duarte, a famous Jesuit.--Conversation between him and a conceited Physician.--Their ludicrous blunders.--Toad-eaters.--Sonatas.--Portuguese minuets. 88
LETTER XVII.
Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Jose di Ribamar.--Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent and hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of mysterious chambers.--The Bishop of Algarve.--Evening scene in the garden of Marvilla. 96
LETTER XVIII.
Excursion to Cintra.--Villa of Ramalhao.--The Garden.--Collares.--Pavilion designed by Pillement.--A convulsive gallop.--Cold weather in July. 104
LETTER XIX.
Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of Cintra.--Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on the summit of a lofty terrace.--Place of confinement of Alphonso the Sixth.--The Chapel.--Barbaric profusion of Gold.--Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when he received a supernatural warning.--Rooms in preparation for the Queen and the Infantas.--Return to Ramalhao. 110
LETTER XX.