"_June 27._ To lunch with Mrs. Harland. _Very_ pleasant. Edmund Gosse was the guest invited to meet me. He was vivacious, easy, and agreeable.
Also the composer Marzials...."
"_June 28._ To Westminster Abbey. To Alice, its interest seemed inexhaustible. It is so, indeed, had one time to be "strewing violets all the time," as E. B. B. said. Longfellow"s bust has been placed there since my last visit; the likeness is good. I wandered about as long as my feet would carry me, thinking sometimes of Gray"s question, "Can storied urn," etc. The Harlands came later and brought the composer of "Twickenham Ferry." With Alice to dine at Toynbee Hall. A pleasant dinner. A bright young man, Bruce by name, related to Abyssinian Bruce, took Alice in to dinner--sitting afterwards in Ames"s room, where we met an alderman, a bricklayer, a trades" unionist; later, we heard a lecture from Commander Gladstone, on the Norman-Breton churches, with fine stereoscopic plates. A violent storm came on, but we managed to "bus it" home, taking a cab only at Marble Arch."
"_June 29._ To dine with the Greek Minister at eight o"clock, and to the _soiree_ of the Academy.
"To Chelsea, to call upon Mrs. Oscar Wilde.... He showed me with pride a fine boy of five years. We had some talk of old times, of his visit to America; I reminded him of the vermilion balcony at which he laughed."
[Wilde had complained that the usual p.r.o.nunciation of these words was prosaic.]
"_June 30...._ Mrs. Oscar Wilde asks us to take tea on Thursday; she has invited Walter Pater.... Have writ to James Bryce."
"_July 2._ To see Oscar Wilde"s play, "Lady Windermere"s Fan," at St.
James"s Theatre. We went by invitation to his box, where were Lady Wilde and Mrs. Oscar. The play was perfectly acted, and is excellent of its kind, the _motif_ not new, but the _denouement_ original in treatment.
After the play to call on Lady Rothschild, then to Constance Flower,[114] who showed us her superb house full of treasures of art."
[114] Lady Battersea.
"_July 4._ Mrs. [Edmund] Gosse came and took us to Alma-Tadema"s beautiful house and garden. He met us very cordially. Mrs. Smalley came.
She was Wendell Phillips"s adopted daughter. I had a pleasant talk with her and with Mr. and Mrs. Hughes, whom I charged with a friendly message to Thomas himself. After this to Minister Lincoln"s Fourth of July reception. Harry White, Daisy Rutherford"s husband, was introduced."
Elsewhere she says of this visit to Alma-Tadema:--
"His charming wife, once seen, explains some of the features of his works. She has yellow hair of the richest color; her eyes also have a primrose tint, while her complexion has a pale bloom of its own, most resembling that of a white rose. She gave us tea from lozenge-shaped cups, with saucers to match. In the anteroom below we admired a painting by her own hand, of yellow jonquils and a yellow fan, on a dark background. Her husband seemed pleased when we praised this picture. So these two artists occupy their golden nest peaceably, and do not tear each other"s laurels.
"Let me say here that the pa.s.sion for the golden color still prevails.
In dress, in furniture, in porcelain, it is the prevailing favorite.
Long banished from the social rainbow, it now avenges itself for years of neglect, and, as every dog must have his day, we will say that the yellow dog is now to have his, and that the dog-star of this coming August will certainly be of his color."
"_July 6._ With Maud to Liberty"s, where she beguiled me, alas! into buying a fine black silk mantle for six guineas. To Nutt"s in the Strand for my Greek books. He had only the "Nicomathean Ethics," a fine edition which I bought for twelve shillings. Then to Poole"s in Hallowell Street, where bought two editions of Aristotle"s "Government," with English notes. At Poole"s found a copy of Schiller"s "Robbers," which I bought for threepence."
"_July 7._ Afternoon tea with Mrs. Oscar, meeting an aunt of Mrs.
Wilde"s, and Mrs. Burne-Jones. The aunt had been in j.a.pan--she had known Fenollosa and Professor Morse. Then to Mrs. Louise Chandler Moulton, who introduced a number of people, among them William Sharp, a poet."
"_July 8._ I had rashly promised to lunch with the Brooke Herfords at Hampstead, and to take five-o"clock tea with Mrs. Rebecca Moore at Bedford Place. The Herfords were delightful, and Hampstead is a charming suburb. We saw the outside of Mrs. Barbauld"s house. Herford said much good of Cookson, a farmer"s son whom he had known in England from his beginnings, a dignified, able, excellent man in his esteem. From this a long distance to Mrs. Moore. We reached her in good time, however. Found her alone, in a pleasant little dwelling. Three ladies came to tea, which was served quite in state--Stepniak[115] came also."
[115] Sergius Stepniak, a Russian author, then a political exile living in England.
"_July 9._ To lunch with Lady Henry Somerset. Some talk with Lady H.
about Mrs. Fawcett, et al.: also concerning Mrs. Martin"s intended candidacy for the presidency of the United States, which, however futile in itself, we deplore as tending to throw ridicule upon the Woman"s Cause. She thought that the Conservatives would give women the Parliamentary Suffrage in England on account of the great number of women who have joined the Primrose League."
"_July 10._ To the Temple Church. The organ voluntaries, strangely, I thought, were first Chopin"s "Funeral March," second the "Dead March" in "Saul." A notable sermon from Dr. Vaughan. The discourse was really concerned with the political situation of the moment: the strong division of feeling throughout the country, and the fears of many lest the doctrine in which they believe should be overthrown. He said that the real Ark of G.o.d was the Church Universal, which has been defined as the whole company of believing Christian people throughout the world.
Many changes would occur, but the vital principle of religion would prove itself steadfast--a truly n.o.ble sermon, worthy of Phillips Brooks."
"_July 12._ To the New Gallery in which were two fine portraits by Herkomer, a superb one of Paderewski by Tadema, and one of Walter Crane by Watts, also of distinguished excellence. Later, called upon the d.u.c.h.ess of Bedford, a handsome woman, sister to Lady Henry Somerset. We talked of her sister"s visit to the United States. I was well able to praise her eloquence and her general charm. She has known Lowell well.
We talked of the old London, the old Boston, both past their palmiest literary days. She had heard Phillips Brooks at Westminster Abbey; admired him much, but thought him optimistic."
"_July 14._ Was engaged to spend the afternoon at Mrs. Moulton"s reception and to dine with Sebastian Schlesinger.... Many people introduced to me--Jerome, author of "Three Men in a Boat"; Molloy, songwriter; Theodore Watts, poetical critic of the Athenaeum."... At the dinner I met Mrs. O"Connor, who turned out to be a Texan, pretty and very pleasant, an Abolitionist at the age of six...."
"_July 15._... To the Harlands", where met Theodore Watts again, and had some good talk with him about Browning and other friends. Also Walter Besant, whom I greeted very warmly as "our best friend.""
"_July 17._ A sermon of surpa.s.sing beauty and power from the dear Bishop of Ma.s.sachusetts [Phillips Brooks].... The power and spirit of the discourse carried me quite away. We waited to speak with him. I had a dear grasp of the hand from him. I shook my finger at him and said, "Is this resting?" He laughed and said, "This is the last time. I shall not speak again until I reach Ma.s.sachusetts." I wrote some lines on coming home, only half expressing my thought, which was that the mother of so brave a son could not have had one coward drop of blood in her veins--another little sc.r.a.p, too, about the seven devils that Christianity can cast out. General Walker in the afternoon and the Harlands to dinner."
They left London to join Mrs. Terry at Schwalbach, lingering for a little on the way in Holland and Belgium.
"_July 27._ _The Hague._ To see Mesdag and his pictures. Found Mesdag a hale man of perhaps fifty years--perhaps less; a fine house, and, besides his own paintings of which we saw a number, a wonderful collection of pictures, mostly modern French, Troyon, Corot, Rousseau, Daubigny. Some good things by a Roman artist, Mancini, whom Mesdag praised highly--he is very poor, but has some excellent qualities. A picture of a little girl reclining on a pillow with a few flowers in her hand, pleased me very much--he also praised it. Much fine tapestry, china, etc., etc. He was gruffly pleasant and hospitable."
"_July 28._ _Antwerp._ Visited Cathedral and _Musee_. Saw my picture, Rubens"s Elevation of the Cross, but felt that my eyesight has dimmed since I last saw it. Found Felu, the armless artist, in the _Musee_ copying a picture of G.o.diva. He was very glad to see us. Much talk with him about Flemish art. A little ramble after dinner and a nibble at a bric-a-brac shop, which, however, did not become a bite."
"_July 31._ _Cologne._ A great concourse of people awaited the arrival of a steamer with the Arion Musical Society of New York. Koln choral societies were represented by fine banners and by members in mediaeval costumes, very picturesque. The steamer came alongside with many flags, foremost among them our own dear "Stars and Stripes." We waved handkerchiefs vigorously as these last pa.s.sed by, and were saluted by their bearers."
"_August 2._ Left Cologne by Rhine steamer. I remember these boats as crowded, dirty, and very comfortless, but I found this one as well appointed as need be. Spent the day mostly on deck enjoying the great beauty and romance of the trip.... I chilled myself pretty badly on deck, but stayed up until perhaps half-past seven. A very young Westphalian on board astonished us all by his powers of drinking and of smoking. He talked with me; said, "_Sie sind deutsch,_" which I denied."
"_August 3._ Reached Schwalbach at three. My dear sister [Mrs. Terry]
came out to greet us. The meeting was a little tearful, but also cheerful. Much has pa.s.sed and pa.s.sed away in these eventful years....
Presently Louisa and I were as though we had not been parted at all.
She is little changed, and retains her old grace and charm of manner."
"_August 4._ Out early with my sister. We have a regular and restful plan of living. Meet after dinner, coffee with my sister at half-past four, supper at half-past seven, in the evening reading aloud and conversation. I am miserable with pain, probably rheumatic, in my left hip. Think I must have got a chill on the Rhine boat. I say nothing about this. Daisy and Wintie [Mr. and Mrs. Winthrop Chanler] came this afternoon."
"_August 7._ To Anglican service with my dear sister. A dull sermon. The service indifferently read--just the stereotyped Church of England article. My dreadful hip joint does not ache to-day, and I am ready to skip about with joy at the relief even if it prove but temporary. The pain has been pretty severe and I have said nought about it, fearing treatment."
"_August 9._ Read Aristotle, as I have done all these days. Took up St.
Paul"s Epistle to the Romans, with a more distinct view than heretofore of his att.i.tude relative to them, and theirs to him. Walked out with my sister, and saw at the bric-a-brac booth near the Stahlbrunnen a ring composed of a fine garnet, set with fine diamonds, wonderfully cheap, 136 marks--I foolishly wanted it."
"_August 16._ _Heidelberg._ To the Castle--an endless walk and climb. I was here in 1843, a bride, with dear Chev, my dearest brother Marion, and my cousin, Henry Hall Ward. We went to the Wolfbrunnen to breakfast--went on ponies to the Castle, where we wandered at will, and saw the mighty tun. Some French people were wandering there also, and one of them, a lady with a sweet soprano voice, sang a song of which the refrain was: "_Comme une etoile au firmament_." H. H. Ward long after found this song somewhere. His voice has now been silent for twenty years, dear Marion"s for forty-six, and here I come to-day, with my grown-up granddaughter, whom dear Chev only knew as a baby. How long the time seems, and yet how short! Two generations have grown up since then in our family. My sister Louisa, then a young beauty, is here with me, a grandmother with grandchildren nearly grown. "So teach us to number our days.""
It seemed to the second and third generations that the two sisters could hardly have been lovelier in that far-off springtime than now in the mellow beauty of their autumn. It was a delight to see them together, a high privilege to sit by and listen to the interchange of precious memories:--
"Do you remember--"
"And do you remember again--"
"_August 24._ _Sonnenberg._... At breakfast an elderly lady seemed to look at me and to smile. I supposed her to be one of my Club ladies, or some one who had entertained me, so presently I asked her if she were "one of my acquaintances." She replied that she was not, but would be pleased to make my acquaintance. We met soon after in one of the corridors; having incautiously mentioned my name, I asked for hers, she replied, "Sforza--d.u.c.h.ess Sforza Cesarini." She had been attracted by my Breton caps, and especially by Daisy"s beautiful version of this simple adornment. She is a reader of Rosmini."[116]
[116] Rosmini-Serbati, a noted philosopher and founder of the order of the Brothers of Charity.
The d.u.c.h.ess confessed afterward that she had requested her maid to observe and copy the cap, and had been somewhat troubled in mind lest she had been guilty of a constructive discourtesy.