(8). +A Shroud Knot+ is a method of joining two ropes. Each is unlaid the necessary length, and they are then brought close together. A Wall Knot is formed on each rope with the strands of the other (Fig. 77).
The completed knot is shown in Fig. 78, but to make a neat job the ends should be marled and served as in Fig. 79.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 77. Fig. 78. Fig. 79.]
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(9). +A Spritsail Sheet Knot+.--Unlay both ends of the rope and bring the two standing parts of the rope together as in Fig. 80.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 80.]
Grasping both parts of the rope at _a_, with the six strands form a Wall Knot, that is, by pa.s.sing 1 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 under 5, 5 under 6, and 6 under the loop formed by 1.
This would appear too confusing if shown in a diagram, but the knot is very easily made in practice.
Now lay any opposite two of the strands across the top {42} in an _opposite direction_, and crown by pa.s.sing the other four, each in turn, alternately over and under these two.
Each of the six strands will then come out leading in a downward direction alongside the strands forming the first walling.
Now follow round the walling again, when the strands will come through in an upward direction, each alongside a strand of the first crowning.
Follow through the crowning once more, and cut off the ends short, when a handsome and useful Stopper Knot will result, as shown in Fig. 81.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 81.]
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SPLICES.
(1). +An Eye Splice+ is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a short distance, and then, after closing up the end, to form an eye of the desired size. Lay the three strands upon the standing part, now tuck the middle strand through the strand of the standing part of the rope next to it (against the lay of the rope), then pa.s.s the strand on the left over the strand under which No. 1 strand is tucked, and tuck it under the next, and lastly, put the remaining strand through the third strand on the other side of the rope (Fig. 82.)
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 82.]
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Now tuck each strand again alternately over a strand and under a strand of the rope, and then taper off by halving the strands before tucking the third time, and again halve them before the fourth tuck.
If the strands are tucked with the lay of the rope it is termed a Sailmaker"s Splice.
(2). +A Short Splice+ is used to join two ropes when it is not required to pa.s.s through a block. Unlay the two ropes the required distance, and clutch them together as in Fig. 83, that is, so that the strands of one rope go alternately between the strands of the other.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 83.]
Then tuck the strands of rope a into the rope _b_ in a similar manner to that described in an eye splice, and similarly tuck the strands of _b_ into _a_ (Figs. 84 and 85).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 84. Fig. 85.]
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(3). +A Cut Splice+ is made by laying two ropes in the position indicated in Fig. 86.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 86.]
Leaving the ropes between _a a_ to form an oblong loop, tuck the strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled, and served. Fig. 87 shows the cut splice after this treatment.
A log-line splice is a cut splice, but instead of allowing the loop to appear, the two lines are twisted together.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 87.]
(4). +A Long Splice+ is one of the most useful of splices, as it permits the rope to run through a block just the same as an unspliced rope.
Unlay the ends of two ropes to a distance about four times the length used in a short splice, and then clutch them together as if about to commence a short splice. Now unlay one strand for a considerable distance and fill {46} up the gap thus caused by twisting in the strand opposite to it of the other rope. Then do the same with two more strands. Let the remaining two strands stay as they were first placed.
The ropes will now appear as in Fig. 88.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 88.]
To finish off, tuck the ends as in a short splice, but _with_ the lay of the rope, that is, so that the tuck will continually take place around the same strand, and taper off gradually by reducing the yarns in the strand.
(5). +To Make a Grommet+, cut a strand about three and a half times the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in the form of a ring (Fig. 89), and then pa.s.s the ends round and round in their original lay until all the intervals are filled up (Fig. 90), and then finish off the two ends as in a long splice (Fig. 91).
[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 89. Fig. 90. Fig. 91.]
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WIRE SPLICING.
In splicing wire, great care should be taken to prevent kinks getting in the rope or strands.
With steel wire, always before working it, put a stop on at the place to which you intend to unlay, and also put a good whipping of twine at the end of each strand.
Steel wire is six-stranded right-handed, and has a heart of hemp.
Flexible wire has a heart of hemp in each strand.
Crucible wire is made in the same manner, except that the strands are wire throughout.
Crucible wire is used for standing rigging and flexible wire for purchases, etc.
In splicing wire all tucks are made with the lay of the rope.
In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a convenient position so that when standing up the eye will be at about the level of the chest of the person working.
A long tapering steel marline-spike is required, and after placing it under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the slack of the strand drawn through.