After breakfast, he said to me, "A Highland Chief should now endeavour to do every thing to raise his rents, by means of the industry of his people. Formerly, it was right for him to have his house full of idle fellows; they were his defenders, his servants, his dependants, his friends. Now they may be better employed. The system of things is now so much altered, that the family cannot have influence but by riches, because it has no longer the power of ancient feudal times. An individual of a family may have it; but it cannot now belong to a family, unless you could have a perpetuity of men with the same views.
M"Leod has four times the land that the Duke of Bedford has. I think, with his spirit, he may in time make himself the greatest man in the King"s dominions; for land may always be improved to a certain degree. I would never have any man sell land, to throw money into the funds, as is often done, or to try any other species of trade. Depend upon it, this rage of trade will destroy itself. You and I shall not see it; but the time will come when there will be an end of it. Trade is like gaming. If a whole company are gamesters, play must cease; for there is nothing to be won. When all nations are traders, there is nothing to be gained by trade[635], and it will stop first where it is brought to the greatest perfection. Then the proprietors of land only will be the great men." I observed, it was hard that M"Leod should find ingrat.i.tude in so many of his people. JOHNSON. "Sir, grat.i.tude is a fruit of great cultivation; you do not find it among gross people." I doubt of this. Nature seems to have implanted grat.i.tude in all living creatures[636]. The lion, mentioned by Aulus Gellius, had it[637]. It appears to me that culture, which brings luxury and selfishness with it, has a tendency rather to weaken than promote this affection.
Dr. Johnson said this morning, when talking of our setting out, that he was in the state in which Lord Bacon represents kings. He desired the end, but did not like the means[638]. He wished much to get home, but was unwilling to travel in Sky. "You are like kings too in this, Sir, (said I,) that you must act under the direction of others."
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21.
The uncertainty of our present situation having prevented me from receiving any letters from home for some time, I could not help being uneasy. Dr. Johnson had an advantage over me, in this respect, he having no wife or child to occasion anxious apprehensions in his mind[639]. It was a good morning; so we resolved to set out. But, before quitting this castle, where we have been so well entertained, let me give a short description of it.
Along the edge of the rock, there are the remains of a wall, which is now covered with ivy. A square court is formed by buildings of different ages, particularly some towers, said to be of great antiquity; and at one place there is a row of false cannon of stone[640]. There is a very large unfinished pile, four stories high, which we were told was here when _Leod_, the first of this family, came from the Isle of Man, married the heiress of the M"Crails, the ancient possessors of Dunvegan, and afterwards acquired by conquest as much land as he had got by marriage. He surpa.s.sed the house of Austria; for he was _felix_ both _bella gerere_ et _nubere_[641]. John _Breck_ M"Leod, the grandfather of the late laird, began to repair the castle, or rather to complete it: but he did not live to finish his undertaking[642]. Not doubting, however, that he should do it, he, like those who have had their epitaphs written before they died, ordered the following inscription, composed by the minister of the parish, to be cut upon a broad stone above one of the lower windows, where it still remains to celebrate what was not done, and to serve as a memento of the uncertainty of life, and the presumption of man:--
"Joannes Macleod Beganoduni Dominus gentis suae Philarchus[643], Durinesiae Haraiae Vaternesiae, &c.: Baro D. Florae Macdonald matrimoniali vinculo conjugatus turrem hanc Beganodunensem proavorum habitaculum longe vetustissimum diu penitus labefectatam Anno aerae vulgaris MDCLx.x.xVI. instauravit.
"Quem stabilire juvat proavorum tecta vetusta, Omne scelus fugiat, just.i.tiamque colat.
Vert.i.t in aerias turres magalia virtus, Inque casas humiles tecta superba nefas."
M"Leod and Talisker accompanied us. We pa.s.sed by the parish church of _Durinish_. The church-yard is not inclosed, but a pretty murmuring brook runs along one side of it. In it is a pyramid erected to the memory of Thomas Lord Lovat, by his son Lord Simon, who suffered on Tower-hill[644]. It is of free-stone, and, I suppose, about thirty feet high. There is an inscription on a piece of white marble inserted in it, which I suspect to have been the composition of Lord Lovat himself, being much in his pompous style:--
"This pyramid was erected by SIMON LORD FRASER of LOVAT, in honour of Lord THOMAS his Father, a Peer of Scotland, and Chief of the great and ancient Clan of the FRASERS. Being attacked for his birthright by the family of ATHOLL, then in power and favour with KING WILLIAM, yet, by the valour and fidelity of his clan, and the a.s.sistance of the CAMPBELLS, the old friends and allies of his family, he defended his birthright with such greatness and fermety of soul, and such valour and activity, that he was an honour to his name, and a good pattern to all brave Chiefs of clans. He died in the month of May, 1699, in the 63rd year of his age, in Dunvegan, the house of the LAIRD of MAC LEOD, whose sister he had married: by whom he had the above SIMON LORD FRASER, and several other children. And, for the great love he bore to the family of MAC LEOD, he desired to be buried near his wife"s relations, in the place where two of her uncles lay. And his son LORD SIMON, to shew to posterity his great affection for his mother"s kindred, the brave MAC LEODS, chooses rather to leave his father"s bones with them, than carry them to his own burial-place, near Lovat."
I have preserved this inscription[645], though of no great value, thinking it characteristical of a man who has made some noise in the world. Dr. Johnson said, it was poor stuff, such as Lord Lovat"s butler might have written.
I observed, in this church-yard, a parcel of people a.s.sembled at a funeral, before the grave was dug. The coffin, with the corpse in it, was placed on the ground, while the people alternately a.s.sisted in making a grave. One man, at a little distance, was busy cutting a long turf for it, with the crooked spade which is used in Sky; a very aukward instrument. The iron part of it is like a plough-coulter. It has a rude tree for a handle, in which a wooden pin is placed for the foot to press upon. A traveller might, without further enquiry, have set this down as the mode of burying in Sky. I was told, however, that the usual way is to have a grave previously dug.
I observed to-day, that the common way of carrying home their grain here is in loads on horseback. They have also a few sleds, or _cars_, as we call them in Ayrshire, clumsily made, and rarely used[646].
We got to Ulinish about six o"clock, and found a very good farm-house, of two stories. Mr. M"Leod of Ulinish, the sheriff-subst.i.tute of the island, was a plain honest gentleman, a good deal like an English Justice of peace; not much given to talk, but sufficiently sagacious, and somewhat droll. His daughter, though she was never out of Sky, was a very well-bred woman. Our reverend friend, Mr. Donald M"Queen, kept his appointment, and met us here.
Talking of Phipps"s voyage to the North Pole, Dr. Johnson observed, that it "was conjectured that our former navigators have kept too near land, and so have found the sea frozen far north, because the land hinders the free motion of the tide; but, in the wide ocean, where the waves tumble at their full convenience, it is imagined that the frost does not take effect."[647]
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 22.
In the morning I walked out, and saw a ship, the Margaret of Clyde, pa.s.s by with a number of emigrants on board. It was a melancholy sight. After breakfast, we went to see what was called a subterraneous house, about a mile off. It was upon the side of a rising ground. It was discovered by a fox"s having taken up his abode in it, and in chasing him, they dug into it. It was very narrow and low, and seemed about forty feet in length. Near it, we found the foundations of several small huts, built of stone. Mr. M"Queen, who is always for making every thing as ancient as possible, boasted that it was the dwelling of some of the first inhabitants of the island, and observed, what a curiosity it was to find here a specimen of the houses of the _Aborigines_, which he believed could be found no where else; and it was plain that they lived without fire. Dr. Johnson remarked, that they who made this were not in the rudest state; for that it was more difficult to make _it_ than to build a house; therefore certainly those who made it were in possession of houses, and had this only as a hiding-place. It appeared to me, that the vestiges of houses, just by it, confirmed Dr. Johnson"s opinion.
From an old tower, near this place, is an extensive view of Loch-Braccadil, and, at a distance, of the isles of Barra and South Uist; and on the land-side, the _Cuillin_, a prodigious range of mountains, capped with rocky pinnacles in a strange variety of shapes.
They resemble the mountains near Corte in Corsica, of which there is a very good print. They make part of a great range for deer, which, though entirely devoid of trees, is in these countries called a _forest_.
In the afternoon, Ulinish carried us in his boat to an island possessed by him, where we saw an immense cave, much more deserving the t.i.tle of _antrum immane_[648] than that of the Sybil described by Virgil, which I likewise have visited. It is one hundred and eighty feet long, about thirty feet broad, and at least thirty feet high. This cave, we were told, had a remarkable echo; but we found none[649]. They said it was owing to the great rains having made it damp. Such are the excuses by which the exaggeration of Highland narratives is palliated. There is a plentiful garden at Ulinish, (a great rarity in Sky,) and several trees; and near the house is a hill, which has an Erse name, signifying, _"the hill of strife"_, where, Mr. M"Queen informed us, justice was of old administered. It is like the _mons placiti_ of Scone, or those hills which are called _laws_[650], such as Kelly _law_, North Berwick _law_, and several others. It is singular that this spot should happen now to be the sheriff"s residence.
We had a very cheerful evening, and Dr. Johnson talked a good deal on the subject of literature. Speaking of the n.o.ble family of Boyle, he said, that all the Lord Orrerys, till the present, had been writers.
The first wrote several plays[651]; the second[652] was Bentley"s antagonist; the third[653] wrote the _Life of Swift_, and several other things; his son Hamilton wrote some papers in the _Adventurer_ and _World_. He told us, he was well acquainted with Swift"s Lord Orrery. He said, he was a feebleminded man; that, on the publication of Dr.
Delany"s _Remarks_ on his book, he was so much alarmed that he was afraid to read them. Dr. Johnson comforted him, by telling him they were both in the right; that Delany had seen most of the good side of Swift,--Lord Orrery most of the bad. M"Leod asked, if it was not wrong in Orrery to expose the defects of a man with whom he lived in intimacy.
JOHNSON. "Why no, Sir, after the man is dead; for then it is done historically[654]." He added, "If Lord Orrery had been rich, he would have been a very liberal patron. His conversation was like his writings, neat and elegant, but without strength. He grasped at more than his abilities could reach; tried to pa.s.s for a better talker, a better writer, and a better thinker than he was[655]. There was a quarrel between him and his father, in which his father was to blame; because it arose from the son"s not allowing his wife to keep company with his father"s mistress. The old lord shewed his resentment in his will[656],--leaving his library from his son, and a.s.signing, as his reason, that he could not make use of it."
I mentioned the affectation of Orrery, in ending all his letters on the _Life of Swift_ in studied varieties of phrase[657], and never in the common mode of _"I am"_, &c., an observation which I remember to have been made several years ago by old Mr. Sheridan. This species of affectation in writing, as a foreign lady of distinguished talents once remarked to me, is almost peculiar to the English. I took up a volume of Dryden, containing the CONQUEST of GRANADA, and several other plays, of which all the dedications had such studied conclusions. Dr. Johnson said, such conclusions were more elegant, and in addressing persons of high rank, (as when Dryden dedicated to the Duke of York[658],) they were likewise more respectful. I agreed that _there_ it was much better: it was making his escape from the Royal presence with a genteel sudden timidity, in place of having the resolution to stand still, and make a formal bow.
Lord Orrery"s unkind treatment of his son in his will, led us to talk of the dispositions a man should have when dying. I said, I did not see why a man should act differently with respect to those of whom he thought ill when in health, merely because he was dying. JOHNSON. "I should not scruple to speak against a party, when dying; but should not do it against an individual. It is told of Sixtus Quintus, that on his death-bed, in the intervals of his last pangs, he signed death-warrants[659]." Mr. M"Queen said, he should not do so; he would have more tenderness of heart. JOHNSON. "I believe I should not either; but Mr. M"Queen and I are cowards[660]. It would not be from tenderness of heart; for the heart is as tender when a man is in health as when he is sick, though his resolution may be stronger[661]. Sixtus Quintus was a sovereign as well as a priest; and, if the criminals deserved death, he was doing his duty to the last. You would not think a judge died ill, who should be carried off by an apoplectick fit while p.r.o.nouncing sentence of death. Consider a cla.s.s of men whose business it is to distribute death:--soldiers, who die scattering bullets. n.o.body thinks they die ill on that account."
Talking of Biography, he said, he did not think that the life of any literary man in England had been well written[662]. Beside the common incidents of life, it should tell us his studies, his mode of living, the means by which he attained to excellence, and his opinion of his own works. He told us, he had sent Derrick to Dryden"s relations, to gather materials for his Life[663]; and he believed Derrick[664] had got all that he himself should have got; but it was nothing. He added, he had a kindness for Derrick, and was sorry he was dead.
His notion as to the poems published by Mr. M"Pherson, as the works of Ossian, was not shaken here. Mr. M"Queen always evaded the point of authenticity, saying only that Mr. M"Pherson"s pieces fell far short of those he knew in Erse, which were said to be Ossian"s. JOHNSON. "I hope they do. I am not disputing that you may have poetry of great merit; but that M"Pherson"s is not a translation from ancient poetry. You do not believe it. I say before you, you do not believe it, though you are very willing that the world should believe it." Mr. M"Queen made no answer to this[665]. Dr. Johnson proceeded. "I look upon M"Pherson"s _Fingal_ to be as gross an imposition as ever the world was troubled with. Had it been really an ancient work, a true specimen how men thought at that time, it would have been a curiosity of the first rate. As a modern production, it is nothing." He said, he could never get the meaning of an _Erse_ song explained to him[666]. They told him, the chorus was generally unmeaning. "I take it, (said he,) Erse songs are like a song which I remember: it was composed in Queen Elizabeth"s time, on the Earl of Ess.e.x: and the burthen was
"Radaratoo, radarate, radara tadara tandore.""
"But surely," said Mr. M"Queen, "there were words to it, which had meaning." JOHNSON. "Why, yes, Sir; I recollect a stanza, and you shall have it:--
"O! then bespoke the prentices all, Living in London, both proper and tall, For Ess.e.x"s sake they would fight all.
Radaratoo, radarate, radara, tadara, tandore[667].""
When Mr. M"Queen began again to expatiate on the beauty of Ossian"s poetry, Dr. Johnson entered into no farther controversy, but, with a pleasant smile, only cried, "Ay, ay; _Radaratoo radarate"_.
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 23.
I took _Fingal_ down to the parlour in the morning, and tried a test proposed by Mr. Roderick M"Leod, son to Ulinish. Mr. M"Queen had said he had some of the poem in the original. I desired him to mention any pa.s.sage in the printed book, of which he could repeat the original. He pointed out one in page 50 of the quarto edition, and read the Erse, while Mr. Roderick M"Leod and I looked on the English;--and Mr. M"Leod said, that it was pretty like what Mr. M"Queen had recited. But when Mr.
M"Queen read a description of Cuchullin"s sword in Erse, together with a translation of it in English verse, by Sir James Foulis, Mr. M"Leod said, that was much more like than Mr. M"Pherson"s translation of the former pa.s.sage. Mr. M"Queen then repeated in Erse a description of one of the horses in Cuchillin"s car. Mr. M"Leod said, Mr. M"Pherson"s English was nothing like it.
When Dr. Johnson came down, I told him that I had now obtained some evidence concerning _Fingal_; for that Mr. M"Queen had repeated a pa.s.sage in the original Erse, which Mr. M"Pherson"s translation was pretty like; and reminded him that he himself had once said, he did not require Mr. M"Pherson"s _Ossian_ to be more like the original than Pope"s _Homer_. JOHNSON. "Well, Sir, this is just what I always maintained. He has found names, and stories, and phrases, nay, pa.s.sages in old songs, and with them has blended his own compositions, and so made what he gives to the world as the translation of an ancient poem."
If this was the case, I observed, it was wrong to publish it as a poem in six books. JOHNSON. "Yes, Sir; and to ascribe it to a time too when the Highlanders knew nothing of _books_, and nothing of _six_;--or perhaps were got the length of counting six. We have been told, by Condamine, of a nation that could count no more than four[668]. This should be told to Monboddo; it would help him. There is as much charity in helping a man down-hill, as in helping him up-hill." BOSWELL. "I don"t think there is as much charity." JOHNSON. "Yes, Sir, if his _tendency_ be downwards. Till he is at the bottom he flounders; get him once there, and he is quiet. Swift tells, that Stella had a trick, which she learned from Addison, of encouraging a man in absurdity, instead of endeavouring to extricate him[669]."
Mr. M"Queen"s answers to the inquiries concerning _Ossian_ were so unsatisfactory, that I could not help observing, that, were he examined in a court of justice, he would find himself under a necessity of being more explicit. JOHNSON. "Sir, he has told Blair a little too much, which is published[670]; and he sticks to it. He is so much at the head of things here, that he has never been accustomed to be closely examined; and so he goes on quite smoothly." BOSWELL. "He has never had any body to work[671] him." JOHNSON. "No, Sir; and a man is seldom disposed to work himself; though he ought to work himself, to be sure." Mr. M"Queen made no reply[672].
Having talked of the strictness with which witnesses are examined in courts of justice, Dr. Johnson told us, that Garrick, though accustomed to face mult.i.tudes, when produced as a witness in Westminster-hall, was so disconcerted by a new mode of public appearance, that he could not understand what was asked[673]. It was a cause where an actor claimed a _free benefit_; that is to say, a benefit without paying the expence of the house; but the meaning of the term was disputed. Garrick was asked, "Sir, have you a free benefit?" "Yes." "Upon what terms have you it?"
"Upon-the terms-of-a free benefit." He was dismissed as one from whom no information could be obtained. Dr. Johnson is often too hard on our friend Mr. Garrick. When I asked him why he did not mention him in the Preface to his _Shakspeare_[674] he said, "Garrick has been liberally paid for any thing he has done for Shakspeare. If I should praise him, I should much more praise the nation who paid him. He has not made Shakspeare better known[675]; he cannot ill.u.s.trate Shakspeare; so I have reasons enough against mentioning him, were reasons necessary. There should be reasons _for_ it." I spoke of Mrs. Montague"s very high praises of Garrick[676]. JOHNSON. "Sir, it is fit she should say so much, and I should say nothing. Reynolds is fond of her book, and I wonder at it; for neither I, nor Beauclerk, nor Mrs. Thrale, could get through it[677]." Last night Dr. Johnson gave us an account of the whole process of tanning and of the nature of milk, and the various operations upon it, as making whey, &c. His variety of information is surprizing[678]; and it gives one much satisfaction to find such a man bestowing his attention on the useful arts of life. Ulinish was much struck with his knowledge; and said, "He is a great orator, Sir; it is musick to hear this man speak." A strange thought struck me, to try if he knew any thing of an art, or whatever it should be called, which is no doubt very useful in life, but which lies far out of the way of a philosopher and a poet; I mean the trade of a butcher. I enticed him into the subject, by connecting it with the various researches into the manners and customs of uncivilized nations, that have been made by our late navigators into the South Seas. I began with observing, that Mr.
(now Sir Joseph) Banks tells us, that the art of slaughtering animals was not known in Otaheite, for, instead of bleeding to death their dogs, (a common food with them,) they strangle them. This he told me himself; and I supposed that their hogs were killed in the same way. Dr.
Johnson said, "This must be owing to their not having knives,--though they have sharp stones with which they can cut a carcase in pieces tolerably." By degrees, he shewed that he knew something even of butchery. "Different animals (said he) are killed differently. An ox is knocked down, and a calf stunned; but a sheep has its throat cut, without any thing being done to stupify it. The butchers have no view to the ease of the animals, but only to make them quiet, for their own safety and convenience. A sheep can give them little trouble. Hales[679]
is of opinion, that every animal should be blooded, without having any blow given to it, because it bleeds better." BOSWELL. "That would be cruel." JOHNSON. "No, Sir; there is not much pain, if the jugular vein be properly cut." Pursuing the subject, he said, the kennels of Southwark ran with blood two or three days in the week; that he was afraid there were slaughter-houses in more streets in London than one supposes; (speaking with a kind of horrour of butchering;) and, yet he added, "any of us would kill a cow rather than not have beef." I said we _could_ not. "Yes, (said he,) any one may. The business of a butcher is a trade indeed, that is to say, there is an apprenticeship served to it; but it may be learnt in a month[680]."
I mentioned a club in London at the Boar"s Head in Eastcheap, the very tavern[681] where Falstaff and his joyous companions met; the members of which all a.s.sume Shakspeare"s characters. One is Falstaff, another Prince Henry, another Bardolph, and so on. JOHNSON. "Don"t be of it, Sir. Now that you have a name, you must be careful to avoid many things, not bad in themselves, but which will lessen your character[682]. This every man who has a name must observe. A man who is not publickly known may live in London as he pleases, without any notice being taken of him; but it is wonderful how a person of any consequence is watched. There was a member of parliament, who wanted to prepare himself to speak on a question that was to come on in the House; and he and I were to talk it over together. He did not wish it should be known that he talked with me; so he would not let me come to his house, but came to mine. Some time after he had made his speech in the house, Mrs. Cholmondeley[683], a very airy[684] lady, told me, "Well, you could make nothing of him!"
naming the gentleman; which was a proof that he was watched. I had once some business to do for government, and I went to Lord North"s.
Precaution was taken that it should not be known. It was dark before I went; yet a few days after I was told, "Well, you have been with Lord North." That the door of the prime minister should be watched is not strange; but that a member of parliament should be watched, or that my door should be watched, is wonderful."
We set out this morning on our way to Talisker, in Ulinish"s boat, having taken leave of him and his family. Mr. Donald M"Queen still favoured us with his company, for which we were much obliged to him. As we sailed along Dr. Johnson got into one of his fits of railing at the Scots. He owned that they had been a very learned nation for a hundred years, from about 1550 to about 1650; but that they afforded the only instance of a people among whom the arts of civil life did not advance in proportion with learning; that they had hardly any trade, any money, or any elegance, before the Union; that it was strange that, with all the advantages possessed by other nations, they had not any of those conveniencies and embellishments which are the fruit of industry, till they came in contact with a civilized people. "We have taught you, (said he,) and we"ll do the same in time to all barbarous nations,--to the Cherokees,--and at last to the Ouran-Outangs;" laughing with as much glee as if Monboddo had been present. BOSWELL. "We had wine before the Union." JOHNSON. "No, Sir; you had some weak stuff, the refuse of France, which would not make you drunk." BOSWELL. "I a.s.sure you, Sir, there was a great deal of drunkenness." JOHNSON. "No, Sir; there were people who died of dropsies, which they contracted in trying to get drunk[685]."
I must here glean some of his conversation at Ulinish, which I have omitted. He repeated his remark, that a man in a ship was worse than a man in a jail[686]. "The man in a jail, (said he,) has more room, better food, and commonly better company, and is in safety." "Ay; but, (said Mr. M"Queen,) the man in the ship has the pleasing hope of getting to sh.o.r.e." JOHNSON. "Sir, I am not talking of a man"s getting to sh.o.r.e; but of a man while he is in a ship: and then, I say, he is worse than a man while he is in a jail. A man in a jail _may_ have the _"pleasing hope"_ of getting out. A man confined for only a limited time, actually _has_ it." M"Leod mentioned his schemes for carrying on fisheries with spirit, and that he would wish to understand the construction of boats. I suggested that he might go to a dock-yard and work, as Peter the Great did. JOHNSON. "Nay, Sir, he need not work. Peter the Great had not the sense to see that the mere mechanical work may be done by any body, and that there is the same art in constructing a vessel, whether the boards are well or ill wrought. Sir Christopher Wren might as well have served his time to a bricklayer, and first, indeed, to a brick-maker."
There is a beautiful little island in the Loch of Dunvegan, called _Isa_. M"Leod said, he would give it to Dr. Johnson, on condition of his residing on it three months in the year; nay one month. Dr. Johnson was highly amused with the fancy. I have seen him please himself with little things, even with mere ideas like the present. He talked a great deal of this island;--how he would build a house there,--how he would fortify it,--how he would have cannon,--how he would plant,--how he would sally out, and _take_ the isle of Muck;--and then he laughed with uncommon glee, and could hardly leave off. I have seen him do so at a small matter that struck him, and was a sport to no one else[687]. Mr. Langton told me, that one night he did so while the company were all grave about him:--only Garrick, in his significant smart manner, darting his eyes around, exclaimed, "_Very_ jocose, to be sure!" M"Leod encouraged the fancy of Doctor Johnson"s becoming owner of an island; told him, that it was the practice in this country to name every man by his lands; and begged leave to drink to him in that mode: "_Island Isa_, your health!"
Ulinish, Talisker, Mr. M"Queen, and I, all joined in our different manners, while Dr. Johnson bowed to each, with much good humour.
We had good weather, and a fine sail this day. The sh.o.r.e was varied with hills, and rocks, and corn-fields, and bushes, which are here dignified with the name of natural _wood_. We landed near the house of Ferneley, a farm possessed by another gentleman of the name of M"Leod, who, expecting our arrival, was waiting on the sh.o.r.e, with a horse for Dr.
Johnson. The rest of us walked. At dinner, I expressed to M"Leod the joy which I had in seeing him on such cordial terms with his clan.