The town consists of one main street, and some that cross it, which I have not seen. The chief street ascends with a quick rise for a great length: the houses are built, some with rough stone, some with brick, and a few are of timber.
The Castle, with its whole enclosure, has been a prodigious pile; it is now so ruined, that the form of the inhabited part cannot easily be traced.
There are, as in all old buildings, said to be extensive vaults, which the ruins of the upper works cover and conceal, but into which boys sometimes find a way. To clear all pa.s.sages, and trace the whole of what remains, would require much labour and expense. We saw a Church, which was once the Chapel of the Castle, but is used by the town: it is dedicated to St. Hilary, and has an income of about--
At a small distance is the ruin of a Church said to have been begun by the great Earl of Leicester[1194], and left unfinished at his death. One side, and I think the east end, are yet standing. There was a stone in the wall, over the door-way, which it was said would fall and crush the best scholar in the diocese. One Price would not pa.s.s under it[1195].
They have taken it down.
We then saw the Chapel of Lleweney, founded by one of the Salusburies: it is very compleat: the monumental stones lie in the ground. A chimney has been added to it, but it is otherwise not much injured, and might be easily repaired.
We went to the parish Church of Denbigh, which, being near a mile from the town, is only used when the parish officers are chosen.
In the Chapel, on Sundays, the service is read thrice, the second time only in English, the first and third in Welsh. The Bishop came to survey the Castle, and visited likewise St. Hilary"s Chapel, which is that which the town uses. The hay-barn, built with brick pillars from s.p.a.ce to s.p.a.ce, and covered with a roof. A more[1196] elegant and lofty Hovel.
The rivers here, are mere torrents which are suddenly swelled by the rain to great breadth and great violence, but have very little constant stream; such are the Clwyd and the Elwy. There are yet no mountains. The ground is beautifully embellished with woods, and diversified by inequalities.
In the parish church of Denbigh is a bas relief of Lloyd the antiquary, who was before Camden. He is kneeling at his prayers[1197].
AUGUST 2.
We rode to a summer-house of Mr. Cotton, which has a very extensive prospect; it is meanly built, and unskilfully disposed.
We went to Dymerchion Church, where the old clerk acknowledged his Mistress. It is the parish church of Bach y Graig. A mean fabrick: Mr.
Salusbury[1198] was buried in it. Bach y Graig has fourteen seats in it.
As we rode by, I looked at the house again. We saw Llannerch, a house not mean, with a small park very well watered. There was an avenue of oaks, which, in a foolish compliance with the present mode, has been cut down[1199]. A few are yet standing. The owner"s name is Davies.
The way lay through pleasant lanes, and overlooked a region beautifully diversified with trees and gra.s.s[1200].
At Dymerchion Church there is English service only once a month. This is about twenty miles from the English border.
The old clerk had great appearance of joy at the sight of his Mistress, and foolishly said, that he was now willing to die. He had only a crown given him by my Mistress[1201].
At Dymerchion Church the texts on the walls are in Welsh.
AUGUST 3.
We went in the coach to Holywell.
Talk with Mistress about flattery[1202].
Holywell is a market town, neither very small nor mean. The spring called Winifred"s Well is very clear, and so copious, that it yields one hundred tuns of water in a minute. It is all at once a very great stream, which, within perhaps thirty yards of its eruption, turns a mill, and in a course of two miles, eighteen mills more. In descent, it is very quick. It then falls into the sea. The well is covered by a lofty circular arch, supported by pillars; and over this arch is an old chapel, now a school. The chancel is separated by a wall. The bath is completely and indecently open. A woman bathed while we all looked on.
In the Church, which makes a good appearance, and is surrounded by galleries to receive a numerous congregation, we were present while a child was christened in Welsh.
We went down by the stream to see a prospect, in which I had no part. We then saw a bra.s.s work, where the lapis calaminaris[1203] is gathered, broken, washed from the earth and the lead, though how the lead was separated I did not see; then calcined, afterwards ground fine, and then mixed by fire with the copper.
We saw several strong fires with melting pots, but the construction of the fire-places I did not learn.
At a copper-work which receives its pigs of copper, I think, from Warrington, we saw a plate of copper put hot between steel rollers, and spread thin; I know not whether the upper roller was set to a certain distance, as I suppose, or acted only by its weight.
At an iron-work I saw round bars formed by a knotched hammer and anvil.
There I saw a bar of about half an inch, or more, square cut with shears worked by water, and then beaten hot into a thinner bar. The hammers all worked, as they were, by water, acting upon small bodies, moved very quick, as quick as by the hand.
I then saw wire drawn, and gave a shilling. I have enlarged my notions[1204], though not being able to see the movements, and having not time to peep closely, I know less than I might. I was less weary, and had better breath, as I walked farther.
AUGUST 4.
Ruthin Castle is still a very n.o.ble ruin; all the walls still remain, so that a compleat platform, and elevations, not very imperfect, may be taken. It encloses a square of about thirty yards. The middle s.p.a.ce was always open.
The wall is, I believe, about thirty feet high, very thick, flanked with six round towers, each about eighteen feet, or less, in diameter. Only one tower had a chimney, so that there was[1205] commodity of living. It was only a place of strength. The garrison had, perhaps, tents in the area.
Stapylton"s house is pretty[1206]: there are pleasing shades about it, with a constant spring that supplies a cold bath. We then went to see a Cascade.
I trudged unwillingly, and was not sorry to find it dry. The water was, however, turned on, and produced a very striking cataract. They are paid an hundred pounds a year for permission to divert the stream to the mines. The river, for such it may be termed[1207], rises from a single spring, which, like that of Winifred"s, is covered with a building.
We called then at another house belonging to Mr. Lloyd, which made a handsome appearance. This country seems full of very splendid houses.
Mrs. Thrale lost her purse. She expressed so much uneasiness, that I concluded the sum to be very great; but when I heard of only seven guineas, I was glad to find that she had so much sensibility of money.
I could not drink this day either coffee or tea after dinner. I know not when I missed before.
AUGUST 5.
Last night my sleep was remarkably quiet. I know not whether by fatigue in walking, or by forbearance of tea[1208].
I gave the ipecacuanha[1209]. Vin. emet. had failed; so had tartar emet.
I dined at Mr. Myddleton"s, of Gwaynynog. The house was a gentleman"s house, below the second rate, perhaps below the third, built of stone roughly cut. The rooms were low, and the pa.s.sage above stairs gloomy, but the furniture was good. The table was well supplied, except that the fruit was bad. It was truly the dinner of a country gentleman. Two tables were filled with company, not inelegant.
After dinner, the talk was of preserving the Welsh language. I offered them a scheme. Poor Evan Evans was mentioned, as incorrigibly addicted to strong drink. Worthington[1210] was commended. Myddleton is the only man, who, in Wales, has talked to me of literature. I wish he were truly zealous. I recommended the republication of David ap Rhees"s Welsh Grammar.
Two sheets of _Hebrides_ came to me for correction to-day, F.G.[1211]
AUGUST 6.
I corrected the two sheets. My sleep last night was disturbed.
Washing at Chester and here, 5_s_. 1_d_.
I did not read.
I saw to-day more of the out-houses at Lleweney. It is, in the whole, a very s.p.a.cious house.
AUGUST 7.
I was at Church at Bodfari. There was a service used for a sick woman, not canonically, but such as I have heard, I think, formerly at Lichfield, taken out of the visitation.
The Church is mean, but has a square tower for the bells, rather too stately for the Church.