After a sufficiency of sleep, we a.s.sembled at breakfast. We were just as if in barracks. Every body was master. We went and viewed the old castle of Col, which is not far from the present house, near the sh.o.r.e, and founded on a rock. It has never been a large feudal residence, and has nothing about it that requires a particular description. Like other old inconvenient buildings of the same age, it exemplified Gray"s picturesque lines,
"Huge[796] windows that exclude the light, And pa.s.sages that lead to nothing."
It may however be worth mentioning, that on the second story we saw a vault, which was, and still is, the family prison. There was a woman put into it by the laird, for theft, within these ten years; and any offender would be confined there yet; for, from the necessity of the thing, as the island is remote from any power established by law, the laird must exercise his jurisdiction to a certain degree.
We were shewn, in a corner of this vault, a hole, into which Col said greater criminals used to be put. It was now filled up with rubbish of different kinds. He said, it was of a great depth, "Ay, (said Dr.
Johnson, smiling,) all such places, that _are filled up_, were of a great depth." He is very quick in shewing that he does not give credit to careless or exaggerated accounts of things. After seeing the castle, we looked at a small hut near it. It is called _Teigh Franchich, i.e._ the Frenchman"s House. Col could not tell us the history of it. A poor man with a wife and children now lived in it. We went into it, and Dr.
Johnson gave them some charity. There was but one bed for all the family, and the hut was very smoky. When he came out, he said to me, _"Et hoc secundum sententiam philosophorum est esse beatus_[797]."
BOSWELL. "The philosophers, when they placed happiness in a cottage, supposed cleanliness and no smoke." JOHNSON. "Sir, they did not think about either."
We walked a little in the laird"s garden, in which endeavours have been used to rear some trees; but, as soon as they got above the surrounding wall, they died. Dr. Johnson recommended sowing the seeds of hardy trees, instead of planting.
Col and I rode out this morning, and viewed a part of the island. In the course of our ride, we saw a turnip-field, which he had hoed with his own hands. He first introduced this kind of husbandry into the Western islands[798]. We also looked at an appearance of lead, which seemed very promising. It has been long known; for I found letters to the late laird, from Sir John Areskine and Sir Alexander Murray, respecting it.
After dinner came Mr. M"Lean, of Corneck, brother to Isle of Muck, who is a cadet of the family of Col. He possesses the two ends of Col, which belong to the Duke of Argyll. Corneck had lately taken a lease of them at a very advanced rent, rather than let the Campbells get a footing in the island, one of whom had offered nearly as much as he. Dr. Johnson well observed, that, "landlords err much when they calculate merely what their land _may_ yield. The rent must be in a proportionate ratio of what the land may yield, and of the power of the tenant to make it yield. A tenant cannot make by his land, but according to the corn and cattle which he has. Suppose you should give him twice as much land as he has, it does him no good, unless he gets also more stock. It is clear then, that the Highland landlords, who let their substantial tenants leave them, are infatuated; for the poor small tenants cannot give them good rents, from the very nature of things. They have not the means of raising more from their farms[799]." Corneck, Dr. Johnson said, was the most distinct man that he had met with in these isles: he did not shut his eyes, or put his fingers in his ears, which he seemed to think was a good deal the mode with most of the people whom we have seen of late.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 7.
Captain M"Lean joined us this morning at breakfast. There came on a dreadful storm of wind and rain, which continued all day, and rather increased at night. The wind was directly against our getting to Mull.
We were in a strange state of abstraction from the world: we could neither hear from our friends, nor write to them. Col had brought Daille _on the Fathers_[800], Lucas _on Happiness_[801], and More"s _Dialogues_[802], from the Reverend Mr. M"Lean"s, and Burnet"s _History of his own Times_, from Captain M"Lean"s; and he had of his own some books of farming, and Gregory"s _Geometry_[803]. Dr. Johnson read a good deal of Burnet, and of Gregory, and I observed he made some geometrical notes in the end of his pocket-book. I read a little of Young"s _Six Weeks" Tour through the Southern Counties_; and Ovid"s _Epistles_, which I had bought at Inverness, and which helped to solace many a weary hour.
We were to have gone with Dr. Johnson this morning to see the mine; but were prevented by the storm. While it was raging, he said, "We may be glad we are not _d.a.m.nati ad metalla_."
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 8.
Dr. Johnson appeared to-day very weary of our present confined situation. He said, "I want to be on the main land, and go on with existence. This is a waste of life."
I shall here insert, without regard to chronology, some of his conversation at different times.
"There was a man some time ago, who was well received for two years, among the gentlemen of Northamptonshire, by calling himself my brother.
At last he grew so impudent as by his influence to get tenants turned out of their farms. Allen the Printer[804], who is of that county, came to me, asking, with much appearance of doubtfulness, if I had a brother; and upon being a.s.sured I had none alive, he told me of the imposition, and immediately wrote to the country, and the fellow was dismissed. It pleased me to hear that so much was got by using my name. It is not every name that can carry double; do both for a man"s self and his brother (laughing). I should be glad to see the fellow. However, I could have done nothing against him. A man can have no redress for his name being used, or ridiculous stories being told of him in the newspapers, except he can shew that he has suffered damage. Some years ago a foolish piece was published, said to be written _by S. Johnson_. Some of my friends wanted me to be very angry about this. I said, it would be in vain; for the answer would be, "_S. Johnson_ may be Simon Johnson, or Simeon Johnson, or Solomon Johnson;" and even if the full name, Samuel Johnson, had been used, it might be said; "it is not you; it is a much cleverer fellow."
"Beauclerk and I, and Langton, and Lady Sydney Beauclerk, mother to our friend, were one day driving in a coach by Cuper"s Gardens[805], which were then unoccupied. I, in sport, proposed that Beauclerk and Langton, and myself should take them; and we amused ourselves with scheming how we should all do our parts. Lady Sydney grew angry, and said, "an old man should not put such things in young people"s heads." She had no notion of a joke, Sir; had come late into life, and had a mighty unpliable understanding.
"_Carte"s Life of the Duke of Ormond_ is considered as a book of authority; but it is ill-written. The matter is diffused in too many words; there is no animation, no compression, no vigour. Two good volumes in duodecimo might be made out of the two in folio[806].
Talking of our confinement here, I observed, that our discontent and impatience could not be considered as very unreasonable; for that we were just in the state of which Seneca complains so grievously, while in exile in Corsica[807]. "Yes, (said Dr. Johnson,) and he was not farther from home than we are." The truth is, he was much nearer.
There was a good deal of rain to-day, and the wind was still contrary.
Corneck attended me, while I amused myself in examining a collection of papers belonging to the family of Col. The first laird was a younger son of the Chieftain M"Lean, and got the middle part of Col for his patrimony. Dr. Johnson having given a very particular account[808] of the connection between this family and a branch of the family of Camerons, called M"Lonich, I shall only insert the following doc.u.ment, (which I found in Col"s cabinet,) as a proof of its continuance, even to a late period:--
TO THE LAIRD OF COL.
"DEAR SIR,
"The long-standing tract of firm affectionate friendship "twixt your worthy predecessors and ours affords us such a.s.surance, as that we may have full relyance on your favour and undoubted friendship, in recommending the bearer, Ewen Cameron, our cousin, son to the deceast Dugall M"Connill of Innermaillie, sometime in Glenpean, to your favour and conduct, who is a man of undoubted honesty and discretion, only that he has the misfortune of being alledged to have been accessory to the killing of one of M"Martin"s family about fourteen years ago, upon which alledgeance the M"Martins are now so sanguine on revenging, that they are fully resolved for the deprivation of his life; to the preventing of which you are relyed on by us, as the only fit instrument, and a most capable person. Therefore your favour and protection is expected and intreated, during his good behaviour; and failing of which behaviour, you"ll please to use him as a most insignificant person deserves.
"Sir, he had, upon the alledgeance foresaid, been transported, at Lochiel"s desire, to France, to gratify the M"Martins, and upon his return home, about five years ago, married: But now he is so much threatened by the M"Martins, that he is not secure enough to stay where he is, being Ardmurchan, which occasions this trouble to you. Wishing prosperity and happiness to attend still yourself, worthy Lady, and good family, we are, in the most affectionate manner,
"Dear Sir,
"Your most obliged, affectionate, "And most humble Servants, "DUGALL CAMERON, _of Strone_.
DUGALL CAMERON, _of Barr_.
DUGALL CAMERON, _of Inveriskvouilline_.
DUGALL CAMERON, _of Invinvalie_."
"Strone, 11th March, 1737."
Ewen Cameron was protected, and his son has now a farm from the Laird of Col, in Mull.
The family of Col was very loyal in the time of the great Montrose[809], from whom I found two letters in his own handwriting. The first is as follows:--
FOR MY VERY LOVING FRIEND THE LAIRD OF COALL.
"Sir,
"I must heartily thank you for all your willingness and good affection to his Majesty"s service, and particularly the sending alongs of your son, to who I will heave ane particular respect, hopeing also that you will still continue ane goode instrument for the advanceing ther of the King"s service, for which, and all your former loyal carriages, be confident you shall find the effects of his Ma"s favour, as they can be witnessed you by
"Your very faithful friende, "MONTROSE."
"Strethearne, 20 Jan. 1646."
The other is:--
"FOR THE LAIRD OF COL.
"SIR,
"Having occasion to write to your fields, I cannot be forgetful of your willingness and good affection to his Majesty"s service. I acknowledge to you, and thank you heartily for it, a.s.suring, that in what lies in my power, you shall find the good. Meanwhile, I shall expect that you will continue your loyal endeavours, in wishing those slack people that are about you, to appear more obedient than they do, and loyal in their prince"s service; whereby I a.s.sure you, you shall find me ever
"Your faithful friend, "MONTROSE[810]."
"Petty, 17 April, 1646."
I found some uncouth lines on the death of the present laird"s father, int.i.tuled "Nature"s Elegy upon the death of Donald Maclean of Col." They are not worth insertion. I shall only give what is called his Epitaph, which Dr. Johnson said, "was not so very bad."
"Nature"s minion, Virtue"s wonder, Art"s corrective here lyes under."
I asked, what "Art"s corrective" meant. "Why, Sir, (said he,) that the laird was so exquisite, that he set art right, when she was wrong."
I found several letters to the late Col, from my father"s old companion at Paris, Sir Hector M"Lean, one of which was written at the time of settling the colony in Georgia[811]. It dissuades Col from letting people go there, and a.s.sures him there will soon be an opportunity of employing them better at home. Hence it appears that emigration from the Highlands, though not in such numbers at a time as of late, has always been practised. Dr. Johnson observed that "the Lairds, instead of improving their country, diminished their people."