and I have heard Aunt Sarah say, "In old times, the wives of the grave-diggers were always expected to a.s.sist with the extra baking at the house where a funeral was to be held."
It would seem as if Bucks County German housewives did not like a dessert without a crust surrounding it.
The Pennsylvania German farmers" wives, with few exceptions, serve the greatest variety of pies at a meal of any cla.s.s of people I know; not alone as a dessert at twelve o"clock dinner, but frequently serve several different varieties of pie at breakfast and at each meal during the day. No ill effects following the frequent eating of pie I attribute to their active life, the greater part of which, during the day, was usually spent in the open air, and some credit may he due the housewife for having acquired the knack of making _good_ pie crust, which was neither very rich nor indigestible, if such a thing be possible.
The combination of fruit and pastry called pie is thought to be of American invention. Material for pies at a trifling cost were furnished the early settlers in Bucks County by the large supply of fruit and vegetables which their fertile farms produced, and these were utilized by the thrifty German housewives, noted for their wise management and economy.
The Professor"s wife taught Mary to make superior pastry, so flaky and tender as to fairly melt in one"s mouth; but Mary never could learn from her the knack of making a dainty, crimped edge to her pies with thumb and forefinger, although it looked so very simple when she watched "Frau Schmidt" deftly roll over a tiny edge as a finish to the pie.
Mary laughingly told the Professor"s wife (when speaking of pies) of the brilliant remark she made about lard, on first coming to the farm.
Her Aunt Sarah, when baking pies one day, said to her, "Look, Mary, see this can of snowy lard, rendered from pork, obtained from our fat pigs last winter!"
"Why, Aunt Sarah!" exclaimed Mary, "is lard made from pork fat? I always thought lard was made from milk and b.u.t.ter was made from cream."
The Professor"s wife possessed, besides a liking for pies, the German"s fondness for anything pertaining to fritters. She used a set of "wafer and cup irons" for making "Rosen Kuchen," as she called the flat, saucer-like wafer; and the cup used for serving creamed vegetables, salads, etc., was similar to pattie cases.
"The "Wafer and Cup Irons,"" said Frau Schmidt, "were invented by a friend of mine, also a teacher and an excellent cook, besides; she gave me several of her original recipes, all to be served on wafers or in patties. You shall have a set of the irons when you start housekeeping. Mary. You will be surprised at the many uses you will find for them. They are somewhat similar to Rosette Irons, but I think them an improvement. They are pieces of fluted steel fastened to a long handle and one is cup-shaped. This latter is particularly fine for making patties. Then the cup may be filled and served on saucer-like wafers, which I call "Rosen Kuchen," or the "Rosen Kuchen"
may be simply dusted with a mixture consisting of one cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of cinnamon and a quarter teaspoonful of powdered cardamon seed, and served on a plate, as dainty cakes or wafers."
Aunt Sarah, when cooking fritters, always used two-thirds lard and one-third suet for deep frying, but "Frau Schmidt" taught Mary to use a good brand of oil for this purpose, as she thought food fried in oil more digestible and wholesome than when fried in lard. The patties or wafers were easily made. "Frau Schmidt" placed the long-handled iron in hot fat, the right temperature for frying fritters. When the iron was heated she quickly and carefully wiped off any surplus fat, then at once dipped the hot wafer iron into a bowl containing the batter she had prepared (the recipe for which she gave Mary), then dipped the iron into the hot fat; when the batter had lightly browned she gently dropped it from the iron onto brown paper, to absorb any fat which might remain. These are quickly and easily prepared and, after a few trials, one acquires proficiency. Pattie cases or cup-shapes are made in a similar manner. They are not expensive and may be kept several weeks in a cool, dry place. When wanted for table use, place in a hot oven a few minutes to reheat. They make a dainty addition to a luncheon by simply dusting the "Rosen Kuchen" with pulverised sugar.
Creamed vegetables of any variety may be served on them by placing a spoon of cream dressing on top of each, over which grate yolk of hard boiled egg; or use as a foundation on which to serve salads; or serve fruit on them with whipped cream. The patties or cups may be used to serve creamed chicken, oysters, or sweetbreads if no sugar be used in the batter. These pattie cases are exactly like those sold at delicatessen counters, in city stores, and are considered quite an addition to a dainty luncheon. They are rather expensive to buy, and we country housewives cannot always procure them when wanted, and they may be made at home with a small amount of labor and less expense.
"The Germans make fritters of almost everything imaginable," continued the Professor"s wife. "One day in early Spring I saw a German neighbor gathering elderberry blossoms, of which she said she intended making fritters. I asked her how they were made, being curious, I will confess. She sent me a plate of the fritters and they were delicious.
I will give you her recipe should you care for it. Mary, have you ever eaten a small, sweet wafer called "Zimmet Waffle?" My mother made them at Christmas time, in Germany. Should I be able to procure a small "waffle," or I should call it wafer, iron, in the city, I will teach you how they are made. I think them excellent. My mother made a cake dough similar to that of pound cake. To one portion she added cinnamon, to the other chocolate, and the last portion was flavored with vanilla. A piece of dough the size of a small marble was placed in the wafer iron, which was then pressed together and held over the fire in the range, by a long handle, until the wafer was crisp and brown. They are delicious and will keep indefinitely."
The Professor"s wife finished speaking to Mary, and turned to her daughter Elizabeth, saying, "It is time I mix the dough if we are to have "Boova Shenkel" for dinner today. I see the potatoes have steamed tender."
"Oh, goody!" said Pauline, "I just love "Boova Shenkel!""
"Then," said her Mother, "run down into the cellar and get me three eggs for them, and Mary, I"ll write off the recipe for you, if you wish it, as I feel sure you"ll like them as well as Pauline. And Elizabeth, dust powdered sugar over this plate of "Rosen Kuchen," and you, Mary and Pauline, leave this hot kitchen and have lunch out in the "Espalier," as your Father calls it."
"I think," said Mary to Elizabeth, after they were seated in the shade, prepared to enjoy the "Rosen Kuchen," "this little, natural, home-grown summer-house is the oddest and prettiest little place I"ve ever seen."
"Yes," a.s.sented Elizabeth, "Father said he made it as nearly like as possible to a large one at Weisbaden, no great distance from his old home in Germany. He says the "Frauer Esche," meaning Weeping Ash, at Weisbaden, had tables and benches placed beneath spreading branches of the tree, and picnics were frequently held there. This one was made by the larger branches of the Weeping Ash, turning downward, fastened by pieces of leather to a framework nailed to the top of posts in the ground, about two yards apart, surrounding the tree. The posts, you notice, are just a little higher than an ordinary man, and when the leaves thickly cover the tops and sides, protecting one from the sun"s rays, it is an ideal Summer-house. We frequently sit here evenings and afternoons; Mother brings her sewing and Pauline her doll family, which, you know, is quite numerous."
"I never saw a Summer-house at all like it," said Mary.
The Professor"s wife not only taught Mary the making of superior pastry and the cooking of German dishes, but what was of still greater importance, taught her the value of different foods; that cereals of every description, flour and potatoes, are starchy foods; that cream, b.u.t.ter, oil, etc., are fat foods; that all fruits and vegetables contain mineral matter; and that lean meat, eggs, beans, peas and milk are muscle-forming foods. These are things every young housekeeper should have a knowledge of to be able to plan nourishing, wholesome, well-balanced meals for her family. And not to serve at one time a dish of rice, cheese and macaroni, baked beans and potatoes. Serve instead with one of these dishes fruit, a vegetable or salad. She said, "beans have a large percentage of nutriment and should be more commonly used." She also said graham and corn bread are much more nutritious than bread made from fine white flour, which lacks the nutritious elements. Indian corn is said to contain the largest amount of fat of any cereal. It is one of our most important cereal foods and should be more commonly used by housewives; especially should it be used by working men whose occupation requires a great amount of physical exercise. Particularly in cold weather should it be frequently served, being both cheap and wholesome.
The Professor"s wife laughingly remarked to Mary, "When I fry fritters or "Fast Nacht" cakes, Fritz and Pauline usually a.s.sist such a large number of them in disappearing before I have finished baking, I am reminded of "Doughnutting Time," by J.W. Foley. Have you never read the poem? I sometimes feel that it must have been written by me."
[A]"DOUGHNUTTING TIME."
Wunst w"en our girl wuz makin" pies an" doughnuts--"ist a Lot-- We stood around with great, big eyes, "cuz we boys like "em hot; And w"en she dropped "em in the lard, they sizzled "ist like fun, And w"en she takes "em out, it"s hard to keep from takin" one.
And "en she says: "You boys"ll get all spattered up with grease."
And by-um-by she says she"ll let us have "ist one apiece; So I took one for me, and one for little James McBride, The widow"s only orfunt son, "ats waitin" there outside.
An" Henry, he took one "ist for himself an" Nellie Flynn, "At"s waitin" at the kitchen door and da.s.sent to come in, Becuz her Mother told her not; and Johnny, he took two, "Cus Amey Brennan likes "em hot, "ist like we chinnern do.
"En Henry happened "ist to think he didn"t get a one For little Ebenezer Brink, the carpet beater"s son, Who never gets "em home, becuz he says, he ain"t quite sure, But thinks perhaps the reason wuz, his folkeses are too poor.
An "en I give my own away to little Willie Biggs "At fell down his stairs one day, an" give him crooked legs, "Cuz Willie always seems to know w"en our girl"s goin" to bake.
He wouldn"t ast for none. Oh, no! But, my! he"s fond of cake.
So I went back an" "en I got another one for me, Right out the kittle smokin" hot, an" brown as it could be; An" John he got one, too, becuz he give his own to Clare, An" w"en our girl she looked, there wuz "ist two small doughnuts there.
My! she wuz angry w"en she looked an" saw "ist them two there, An" says she knew "at she had cooked a crock full an" to spare; She says it"s awful "scouragin" to bake and fret an" fuss, An" w"en she thinks she"s got "em in the crock, they"re all in us.
[Footnote A: The poem "Doughnutting Time," from "Boys and Girls,"
published by E.P. Dutton, by permission of the author, James W.
Foley.]
The Professor"s wife gave Mary what she called her most useful recipe.
She said, "Mary, this recipe was almost invaluable to me when I was a young housekeeper and the strictest economy was necessary. Sift into a bowl, one cup of flour, one even teaspoonful of baking powder (I use other baking powders occasionally, but prefer "Royal"), then cut through the flour either one tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter or lard, add a pinch of salt, and mix into a soft dough with about one-half cup of sweet milk. Mix dough quickly and lightly, handling as little as possible. Drop large spoonfuls of the batter in m.u.f.fin pans and bake in a quick oven for tea biscuits; or, sift flour thickly over the bread board, turn out the dough, roll several times in the flour, give one quick turn with the rolling-pin to flatten out dough, and cut out with small cake cutter, (I prefer using a small, empty tin, 1/2 pound baking powder can, to cut out cakes.) Place close together in an agate pan and bake, or bake in one cake in a pie tin and for shortcake; or place spoonfuls of the dough over veal or beef stew and potatoes or stewed chicken, and cook, closely covered, about fifteen minutes. Of course, you will have sufficient water in the stew pan to prevent its boiling away before the pot-pie dumplings are cooked, and, of course, you know, Mary, the meat and potatoes must be almost ready to serve when this dough is added. Then I frequently add one teaspoonful of sugar to the batter and place spoonfuls over either freshly stewed or canned sour cherries, plums, rhubarb or apples. In fact, any tart fruit may be used, and steam, closely covered, or place large tablespoonful of any fruit, either canned or stewed, in small custard cups, place tablespoonfuls of batter on top and steam or bake, and serve with either some of the stewed fruit and fruit juice, sugar and cream, or any sauce preferred."
"The varieties of puddings which may be evolved from this one formula," continued the Professor"s wife, "are endless, and, Mary, I should advise you to make a note of it. This quant.i.ty of flour will make enough to serve two at a meal, and the proportions may be easily doubled if you wish to serve a large family."
"Then, Mary, I have a recipe taken from the "Farmers" Bulletin" for dumplings, which I think fine. You must try it some time. Your Aunt Sarah thinks them "dreadfully extravagant." They call for four teaspoonfuls of baking powder to two cups of flour, but they are perfect puff b.a.l.l.s, and this is such a fast age, why not use more baking powder if an advantage? I am always ready to try anything new I hear about."
"Yes," replied Mary, "I just love to try new recipes, I will experiment with the dumplings one of these days. Aunt Sarah says I will never use half the recipes I have; but so many of them have been given me by excellent and reliable old Bucks County cooks, I intend to copy them all in a book, and keep for reference after I leave the farm."
CHAPTER XX.
OLD POTTERIES AND DECORATED DISHES.
One day, looking through the old corner cupboard, Mary exclaimed, "Aunt Sarah, you certainly possess the finest collection of quaint old china dishes I have ever seen. I just love those small saucers and cups without handles; yes, and you have plates to match decorated with pinkish, lavender peac.o.c.k feathers, and those dear little cups and saucers, decorated inside with pink and outside with green flowers, are certainly odd; and this queerly-shaped cream jug, sugar bowl and teapot, with pale green figures, and those homely plates, with dabs of bright red and green, they surely must be very old!"
[Ill.u.s.tration: Old Earthenware Dish]
"Yes, dear, they all belonged to either John"s mother or mine. All except this one large, blue plate, which is greatly valued by me, as it was given me many years ago by a dear old friend, Mary Butler, a descendant of one of the oldest families in Wyoming Valley, whose, forefathers date back to the time of the "Wyoming Ma.s.sacre," about which so much has been written in song and story.
"The very oddest plates in your collection are those two large earthenware dishes, especially that large circular dish, with sloping sides and flat base, decorated with tulips."
[Ill.u.s.tration: SGRAFFITO PLATE Manufactured by One of the Oldest Pennsylvania German Potterers in 1786]
"Yes, Mary, and it is the one I value most highly. It is called sgraffito ware. A tulip decoration surrounds a large red star in the centre of the plate. This belonged to my mother, who said it came from the Headman pottery at Rockhill Township, about the year 1808. I know of only two others in existence at the present time; one is in a museum in the city of Philadelphia and the other one is in the Bucks County Historical Society at Doylestown, Pa. The other earthenware plate you admire, containing marginal inscription in German which when translated is "This plate is made of earth, when it breaks the potter laughs," is the very oldest in my collection, the date on it, you see, is 1786. Those curved, shallow earthenware pie plates, or "Poi Schissel," as they are frequently called in this part of Bucks County, I value, even if they are quite plain and without decoration, as they were always used by my mother when baking pies, and I never thought pies baked in any other shaped dish tasted equally as good as hers.
These pie plates were manufactured at one of the old potteries near her home. All the old potters have pa.s.sed away, and the buildings have crumbled to the ground. Years ago, your mother and I, when visiting the old farm where the earlier years of our childhood were pa.s.sed, stopped with one of our old-time friends, who lived directly opposite the old Herstine pottery, which was then in a very dilapidated condition; it had formerly been operated by Cornelius Herstine (we always called him "Neal" Herstine)."
[Ill.u.s.tration: OLD PLATES FOUND IN AUNT SARAH"S CORNER CUPBOARD]
"Together we crossed the road, forced our way through tangled vines and underbrush, and, peering through windows guiltless of gla.s.s, we saw partly-finished work of the old potters crumbling on the ground.