"Tableau de moeurs espagnoles," said a Frenchman, raising his shoulders.
"In Peru, where I have seen many bull-fights," he went on, "they use high-spirited and valuable horses, and the _picador_ would be for ever disgraced if he allowed the bull to touch his horse."]
_15th_. [From Valencia to Madrid is 308 miles; the time from 4 P.M. to 6.20 A.M., and our train was pretty punctual.]
_16th_.--Saw Isabella and her Court enter Madrid. She was shot at [by a foolish, half-witted lad, who did not know how to load his pistol, and had no motive for the crime, or rather attempt]. Delighted with the gallery.
[There are a few seats and no visitors; and the wisest thing travellers can do, and by far the pleasantest, is to spend all the hours of all the days they are in Madrid that the gallery is open in contemplating its treasures.]
_17th_.--[Immediately after breakfast, Hopie and I went to the Museum.
Henry joined us presently, and we remained till four o"clock.]
_18th, Thursday_.--[We had intended to make the Toledo excursion to-day, but an undoubted attack of gout confines Henry to the sofa. Hopie and I walked before breakfast to the Church of the Atocha, where we were shown ... in a wardrobe in the vestry, the crimson velvet robe which Isabella had on when the Cure Merino stabbed her. [Footnote: On her way to the church, February 2nd, 1852. The priest, a Franciscan, was garotted in due course.]
It has the stain of blood on the lining; the ma.s.sive embroidery in gold saved her life by turning aside the knife.... After breakfast we took a walk through the unfashionable parts of the town: narrow streets, noisy and crowded, where open stores with bright-coloured scarfs and petticoats collected round them men in the peasant dress--short jackets, breeches, and gaiters partly open. These were picturesque, but the streets and houses were uninteresting enough.
There can be no doubt that Madrid is the least interesting capital in Europe, and that it is only worth the traveller"s while to go there for the sake of the pictures.... It is settled that we leave Madrid on Sat.u.r.day evening, and Henry has therefore consented to our going to Toledo tomorrow without him.]
_19th_,--[Excursion to Toledo, fifty-six miles by rail.]
_20th, Sat.u.r.day_.--[After dinner started for Granada, where, after thirty-six hours (rail and diligence), we arrived on Monday morning.]
_27th, Sat.u.r.day_.--[At 6 P.M. we stow ourselves in the interior of the diligence, and pound along the dusty road towards Santa Fe. It is dusk before we get there, and dark after.]
_28th, Sunday_.--[From Granada to Malaga is seventy-six miles. Guards are not only stationed along the road, but two or three are taken on the diligence. The roads were not good; we seemed to be crossing a series of sierras, and when day dawned, after a fresh, almost cold night, we found ourselves amid ghaut-like hills, and wondered when the topmost point would be gained and the descent to Malaga begun. I think it is at Fuente de la Reina that the magnificent view of the Mediterranean, the port and city of Malaga, and the long perspective of zigzags down spurs of mountains is seen. Neither the French nor English Handbook speaks of this view with the enthusiasm it deserves. It is far finer than the view on the heights looking down on Trieste and the Adriatic.... We entered Malaga about 10 A.M.; the descent had taken about two hours.]
_29th_.--[Very early it was announced that an unexpected boat had come in, and was going on to Cadiz.... At 2 P.M. we went on board... but she did not steam till six. We should have been very irate at the delay but for the remarkably good dinner they gave us.... We made a detour and went very slow at starting, to avoid a vessel sunk in the harbour, on which a provisional pharo is placed. This vessel, the "Genova," had on board sh.e.l.ls and powder for the Morocco war, when it was discovered that spontaneous combustion had broken out in the coal--a defect of Spanish coal--and, fearing she would not only blow up herself but also the city of Malaga, they determined to sink her; and, after a deal of bad practice by the guns of fort and fleet, she went under water, and there she has been eight months.]
_30th_.--[Cadiz. On the 31st crossed over to Puerto Santa Maria; and on November 1st to Seville by rail.]
_November 2nd_.--[Henry has again a threatening of gout, and must have recourse to rest and remedial measures. He sent us out to buy the works of "Fernan Caballero;" but only one volume was to be had, and no explanation was given us of the strange fact that the writings of the most popular novelist in Spain are not to be obtained in the capital of Andalusia, where she lives, and whence all her characters and scenery are taken.
No satisfactory map or guide-book of Seville could be found. I took a catalogue of the books that the shop contained back to Henry. They were chiefly of a religious character. Hopie and I took an exploring walk as far as the Plaza and Church of San Lorenzo, stopping now and then to peep into the cool _patios_ filled with flowers, and a murmuring fountain often in the middle, which you see through the corridor, sometimes with a door of iron trellis, sometimes open. All the windows of the bas.e.m.e.nt have iron gratings and wooden shutters; and the courting and sweethearting is carried on with the lady inside and the lover outside the railing. Not that we saw anything of the kind as it takes place of an evening; but the construction of the houses explains the descriptions as given in these charming tales of "Fernan Caballero."]
_3rd_.--[Hopie and I set out to "do churches"... After breakfast to the Museum.... We then joined Henry, who was better, and had been to call at the Palace, and drove to Alfarache, about four miles" distance.]
_4th_.--[In the afternoon to Cordova (eighty-one miles), returning to Seville on the evening of the 5th.]
_6th_.--[A decidedly grey day, unfortunately for our plans of picture-seeing. We did a little shopping... and then went to the Museum; but, alas! there was not more light than you would have in Trafalgar Square; and those Murillos at a distance from the window were scarcely visible. We were so vexed on Henry"s account. We spent the afternoon in writing letters, bathing our faces with milk, and hoping the mosquito bites, which have driven us well-nigh distracted, will be less conspicuous to-morrow, when we are to spend the morning at the Palace, and be presented to the Infanta.]
_7th_.--[Nine o"clock was the hour named by the Duke, and a few minutes after we were at the Palace of San Telmo (in bonnets and our tidiest dresses). We were shown into a room on the ground floor, and in a few seconds the Duc de Montpensier [Footnote: For the circ.u.mstances of the Duc de Montpensier"s marriage, see _ante_, vol. i. p. 181.] came in attended by an A.D.C. He received us very graciously, asked if we would drive or walk round the grounds, and said he thought we had better see the gardens first, and then the house and pictures.... Our promenade, with an occasional rest, took nearly two hours; and then, returning to the Palace, H.R.H. showed us the state rooms and the pictures, many of great beauty and merit, all very interesting; and then, suggesting we should like to take off our bonnets, desired the A.D.C. to show us rooms.... A servant waiting outside the door showed us into a drawing-room upstairs, where we found two ladies of the Infanta"s suite, and an old marquis, whose gold key showed he was the chamberlain. In a few minutes the double doors of a larger room were thrown open, and "los Duques" and the four Infantas, their daughters, came in....
When the _dejeuner dinatoire_ was announced, the Duke told Henry to offer his arm to the d.u.c.h.ess, then he advanced towards me, the chamberlain took Hopie, the children and the suite followed. We were eighteen at table. ...
Servants stood behind us with paper flappers, whisking away the flies, who swarmed round the sweet dishes on the table; and H.R.H. complaining of _les mouches_, I ventured to complain of _les moustiques_. He smiled, and said, "I noticed that you had been victimised." Breakfast was very gay and agreeable; the Duke has the family talent for conversation, and the d.u.c.h.ess is very amiable, and of course speaks French. She wore a high, plain silk dress of the prevailing colour, and a black chenille net. The Infantas had black silk skirts with a broad piece of black velvet at the bottom, and white pique shirts. We left the table in the same order as before, and, after a few minutes in the salon, the Duke took Henry into his private room. The d.u.c.h.ess requested us to be seated, and asked us questions about our tour, &c.... and then, rising, she said Adieu, and left the room. The Duke took us to the large library on the ground floor, to show us the alb.u.ms and other things of interest.... There was an interesting portrait of an elderly lady in a black dress and mantilla, which H.R.H. pointed out as being that of the lady who writes under the name of "Fernan Caballero;"
and on Henry"s mentioning that we had tried in vain to purchase her novels, he desired the librarian to see whether there were duplicate copies, and, on hearing there were, gave us a set, as well as a coloured lithograph of the Palace and photographs of the d.u.c.h.ess, himself, and the princesses....
It was altogether a most interesting and agreeable morning, and we came away charmed with the courtesy and kindness of "los Duques."]
_9th_.--Back to Cadiz; very stormy voyage to Lisbon. Home to Southampton, November 22nd.
_From Lord Clarendon_
_The Grove, December 6th_.--I was glad to get your letter, as I thought you must be due about this time, and I had not heard of your arrival. I can imagine no change for the worse equal to that of coming from the blue sky and thermometer of Andalusia to the fogs and hydrometer of London, and your impaired respiratory organs must make that change peculiarly pleasant.
I am very glad your impressions of Spain are the same as Granville"s.
He raves of the things he has seen, and of the good hotels and general civility; and says he tasted no garlic since he dined at the Maison Doree at Paris. Spain must indeed be changed since my time!
We returned from Ashridge [Footnote: The seat of Lord Brownlow.] this afternoon, and are off again next week. Paterfamilias is obliged to drink the cup of gaiety to the dregs, which is almost worse than being in office.
Pray remember us very kindly to Mrs. Reeve. As soon as we are free agents, we shall hope for the pleasure of seeing you here.
_To Lord Brougham_
_C. O., December 10th_. I have not the slightest intention of plunging at present into the turbid waters of Indian finance, still less of engaging in the personal controversy of Trevelyan"s merits or grievances.... I am not sure that his view of extensive reduction is not, in reality, more rational and possible than Wilson"s view of extensive taxation. Probably, however, both will be needed before we have done. But I suspend my judgement on the question, and I shall not venture to discuss it in the "Review" at present.
We returned from Spain and Portugal a few days after you had the kindness to call in Rutland Gate. I proceeded immediately to call on you in Grafton Street, but you had already gone north. Since then I have been unceasingly occupied at the Judicial Committee. Our journey was very successful and agreeable. We coasted round the whole peninsula, and went up to Madrid, Grenada, Seville, Cordova, &c.
The changes taking place in France are (if sincere) most remarkable. My friends think that one of L. N."s objects is to have a debate on his foreign policy and his relations with Italy, which--as he well knows--will be extremely adverse to the Italian cause, and afford him a pretext for abandoning Victor Emanuel. There is some idea that when Francis II.
evacuates Gaeta, he will surrender it, not to Victor Emanuel, but to France. I expect this affair in Southern Italy to end by a Muratist demonstration; in other words, the Neapolitans will place themselves under the protection of France to escape from the Piedmontese.... Thank G.o.d, your namesake and my friend, Henry Brougham Loch,[Footnote: Now Lord Loch, then secretary to Lord Elgin, in China. He and Harry Parkes had been treacherously seized by the Chinese on September 18th, and kept in vilest durance and imminent danger of being put to death till October 8th, when, after the capture of the Summer Palace, both the prisoners were released.]
is safe. We have been very uneasy about him, and not without cause. The China war is a slough of despond: the further we advance the more we shall flounder, until we are half ruined by our successes.
_62 Rutland Gate, December 24th_.--I have shut myself up for some days, to try to get rid of an irritation in the larynx, which has troubled me for some time past; but in this weather one"s library is the most secure retreat.
_62 Rutland Gate, January 3rd_.--I see the Court of Queen"s Bench in Canada has decided in favour of the extradition of the fugitive slave who turned and slew his pursuer. This surprises me; for surely, by our law, such an act is not murder. What, however, interests me most is to know whether the case can be brought up to the Privy Council by way of appeal. I do not know what form the proceedings in Canada have taken; but I apprehend the proceedings are civil, not criminal, and therefore appealable. If it does come here, it will be a matter of great interest.
The reference is to the celebrated case of John Anderson--or Jack--a negro of Missouri, who, in 1853, had been met by one Diggs, a white man, thirty miles away from his home. In accordance with the laws of the State, Diggs attempted to seize him. Anderson killed Diggs, and--by "the underground railway"--made good his escape to Canada, where he had lived ever since.
In 1860 he had been recognised, and, on formal application for his extradition, he had been arrested. The Court of Queen"s Bench in Canada accepted the argument that they had to decide only as to the evidence of the commission of the crime, not as to the nature of it, and remanded the prisoner. In England the excitement was very great. The Secretary of State sent out an order that Anderson was not to be given up without instructions from him; and the Court of Queen"s Bench sent out a writ of _habeas corpus_, directing the man to be brought before it. But meanwhile an application for a writ of _habeas corpus_ had been made to the Court of Common Pleas in Canada, and the prisoner had been discharged on the technical ground that he was not charged with any crime included in the Extradition Treaty, as, for instance, murder; for the indictment was that he did "wilfully, maliciously and feloniously stab and kill, &c.," words which meant, inferentially, manslaughter; and manslaughter was not recognised by the treaty.[Footnote: See _Annual Register_, 1831, part ii.
p. 520.]
The Journal here mentions the awfully sudden death of a friend of many years" standing:--
_January 8th_.--The Frederick Elliots and Marochettis dined with us. There was a frost, and torches on the Serpentine. Mrs. F. Elliot drove round to see it, and went home and died in the night [of a spasm of the heart. The news reached Reeve by a note from Mr. Elliot, dated seven o"clock in the morning].
_From Mr. E. Twisleton_
Bonchurch, January 24th.
My dear Reeve,--I am much obliged to you for your letter of the 18th instant, which has been forwarded to me here. I am sorry to say that I have so much on my hands at present that I could not undertake to write an article on American affairs; though I am equally obliged to you for the proposal.
I lament what has taken place in the United States. Although, in a narrow political sense, a disruption may be useful to England, in another point of view it is a misfortune, inasmuch as the maintenance of one confederation during seventy-two years, over such a vast extent of territory, with no civil war, and only two foreign wars, is the greatest thing which the English race has done out of England, and its dissolution is sure to be viewed with pleasure by all who in their hearts hate free inst.i.tutions and the English race.
Since Brown"s attempt to excite an insurrection of the slaves in Virginia, I have thought it impossible to avoid a civil war, if the anti-slavery feeling in the North went on increasing in intensity, as I have known it to increase during the last ten years; but I had not the most distant idea that Lincoln"s election would lead to immediate secession on the part of even a single state. In the north of the Union they have been absolutely taken by surprise, and have hardly yet made up their minds as to the course they will pursue. If Congress had merely to deal with South Carolina, it could easily checkmate that one state; but the difficulty arises from the _number_ of states, which either side with South Carolina or will not act against her.
I have the highest respect for Tocqueville"s opinion; but I do not happen to remember what he has written respecting secession. I well understand the difficulty for a confederation if any one state has a settled permanent determination to secede from it. But, under the const.i.tution, Congress has ample powers to levy the federal revenue and maintain the laws of the Union in South Carolina--and to pa.s.s all laws necessary for this purpose.
Moreover, everyone in the Union who levies war against the United States Government is guilty of treason, and there is no recognition in the const.i.tution of any right in any state to secede from the Union. Under these circ.u.mstances, everyone in South Carolina caught in arms against the federal Government is liable to be hanged. With such laws and powers, an united Congress and a resolute president, like General Jackson, would soon reduce South Carolina to submission; and my belief is that the same might be the case if there were a league against the Union of the cotton states alone. For a time Congress would baffle such a league quite as effectually as the Swiss Confederation put down the Sonderbund.
Pray give my kind regards to Mrs. Reeve. I expect to be in London at the end of next week, and I shall be happy to communicate and receive ideas on American politics. The critical point at present is the course which will be pursued by Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia. Yours very truly,
EDWARD TWISLETON.
The Journal notes:--
_February 26th_.--Dined with the Apponyis, now Austrian amba.s.sador; d.u.c.h.ess of Wellington, Clarendon, Lewis, Lady Westmorland, and Mme. de Bury, who was in great favour at Vienna.
_To Lord Brougham_