Whether or no my Relator guess"d at the Moral, or whether it was Fact, I dare not determine; But to me it seem"d apparent, that it was no otherways intended, than as an emblematical Fable to cover, and preserve the Memory of the Deliverance of _Henry_ the Fourth, then the young King of _Navarr_, at that eternally ignominious Slaughter, the Ma.s.sacre of _Paris_. Many Historians, their own as well as others, agree, that the House of _Guise_ had levell"d the Malice of their Design at that great Prince. They knew him to be the lawful Heir; but as they knew him bred, what they call"d a _Hugonot_, Barbarity and Injustice was easily conceal"d under the Cloak of Religion, and the Good of Mother Church, under the veil of Ambition, was held sufficient to postpone the Laws of G.o.d and Man. Some of those Historians have deliver"d it as Matter of Fact, that the Conspirators, in searching after that young King, press"d into the very Apartments of the Queen his Mother; who having, at the Toll of the Bell, and Cries of the Murder"d, taken the Alarm, on hearing "em coming, plac"d her self in her Chair, and cover"d the young King her Son with her Farthingale, till they were gone. By which means she found an opportunity to convey him to a Place of more Safety; and so preserv"d him from those b.l.o.o.d.y Murderers, and in them from the Paw of the Lyon.
This was only a private Reflection of my own at that Time; but I think carries so great a Face of Probability, that I can see no present Reason to reject it. And to have sought after better Information from the Officer of the Mint, had been to sacrifice my Discretion to my Curiosity.
While I stay"d at _Bayonne_, the Princess _Ursini_ came thither, attended by some of the King of _Spain"s_ Guards. She had been to drink the Waters of some famous Spaw in the Neighbourhood, the Name of which has now slipt my Memory. She was most splendidly entertain"d by the Queen Dowager of _Spain_; and the Mareschal _de Montrevel_ no less signaliz"d himself in his Reception of that great Lady, who was at that Instant the greatest Favourite in the _Spanish_ Court; tho" as I have before related, she was some Time after basely undermined by a Creature of her own advancing.
_BAYONNE_ is esteem"d the third _Emporium_ of Trade in all _France_. It was once, and remain"d long so, in the Possession of the _English_; of which had History been silent, the Cathedral Church had afforded evident Demonstration; being in every respect of the _English_ Model, and quite different to any of their own way of Building in _France_.
_PAMPELONA_ is the Capital City of the _Spanish Navarr_, supposed to have been built by _Pompey_. "Tis situated in a pleasant Valley, surrounded by lofty Hills. This Town, whether famous or infamous, was the Cause of the first Inst.i.tution of the Order of the Jesuits. For at the Siege of this Place _Ignatius Loyola_ being only a private Soldier, receiv"d a shot on his Thigh, which made him uncapable of following that Profession any longer; upon which he set his Brains to work, being a subtle Man, and invented the Order of the Jesuits, which has been so troublesome to the World ever since.
At _Saint Stephen_ near _Lerida_, an Action happened between the _English_ and _Spaniards_, in which Major General _Cunningham_ bravely fighting at the Head of his Men, lost his Life, being extreamly much lamented. He was a Gentleman of a great Estate, yet left it, to serve his Country; _Dulce est pro Patria Mori_.
About two Leagues from _Victoria_, there is a very pleasant Hermitage plac"d upon a small rising Ground, a murmuring Rivulet running at the bottom, and a pretty neat Chapel standing near it, in which I saw _Saint Christopher_ in a Gigantick Shape, having a _Christo_ on his Shoulders.
The Hermit was there at his Devotion, I ask"d him (tho" I knew it before) the reason why he was represented in so large a Shape: The Hermit answered with great Civility, and told me, he had his Name from _Christo Ferendo_, for when our Saviour was young, he had an inclination to pa.s.s a River, so _Saint Christopher_ took him on his Shoulders in order to carry him over, and as the Water grew deeper and deeper, so he grew higher and higher.
At last we received News, that the _Gloucester_ Man of War, with two Transports, was arrived at _Port Pa.s.sage_, in order for the Transporting of all the remaining Prisoners of War into _England_. Accordingly they march"d next Day, and there embark"d. But I having before agreed with a Master of a Vessel, which was loaded with Wine for _Amsterdam_, to set me ash.o.a.r at _Dover_, stay"d behind, waiting for that Ship, as did that for a fair Wind.
In three or four Days" Time, a fine and fair Gale presented; of which the Master taking due Advantage, we sail"d over the Bar into the Bay of _Biscay_. This is with Sailors, to a Proverb, reckon"d the roughest of Seas; and yet on our Entrance into it, nothing appear"d like it. "Twas smooth as Gla.s.s; a Lady"s Face might pa.s.s for young, and in its Bloom, that discover"d no more Wrinkles; Yet scarce had we sail"d three Leagues, before a prodigious Fish presented it self to our View. As near as we could guess, it might be twenty Yards in Length; and it lay sporting it self on the surface of the Sea, a great Part appearing out of the Water. The Sailors, one and all, as soon as they saw it, declar"d it the certain Forerunner of a Storm. However, our Ship kept on its Course, before a fine Gale, till we had near pa.s.sed over half the Bay; when, all on a sudden, there was such a hideous Alteration, as makes Nature recoil on the very Reflection. Those Seas that seem"d before to smile upon us, with the Aspect of a Friend, now in a Moment chang"d their flattering Countenance into that of an open Enemy; and Frowns, the certain Indexes of Wrath, presented us with apparent Danger, of which little on this Side Death could be the Sequel. The angry Waves cast themselves up into Mountains, and scourg"d the Ship on every Side from p.o.o.p to Prow: Such Shocks from the contending Wind and Surges! Such Falls from Precipices of Water, to dismal Caverns of the same uncertain Element! Although the latter seem"d to receive us in Order to skreen us from the Riot of the former, Imagination could offer no other Advantage than that of a Winding-Sheet, presented and prepared for our approaching Fate. But why mention I Imagination? In me "twas wholly dormant. And yet those Sons of stormy Weather, the Sailors, had theirs about them in full Stretch; for seeing the Wind and Seas so very boisterous, they lash"d the Rudder of the Ship, resolv"d to let her drive, and steer herself; since it was past their Skill to steer her. This was our Way of sojourning most Part of that tedious Night; driven where the Winds and Waves thought fit to drive us, with all our Sails quite lower"d and flat upon the Deck. If _Ovid_, in the little _Archipelagian_ Sea, could whine out his _jam jam jacturus_, &c. in this more dismal Scene, and much more dangerous Sea (the Pitch-like Darkness of the Night adding to all our sad Variety of Woes) what Words in Verse or Prose could serve to paint our Pa.s.sions, or our Expectations? Alas! our only Expectation was in the Return of Morning; It came at last; yet even slowly as it came, when come, we thought it come too soon, a new Scene of sudden Death being all the Advantage of its first Appearance. Our Ship was driving full Speed, towards the _Breakers_ on the _Cabritton_ Sh.o.r.e, between _Burdeaux_ and _Bayonne_; which filled us with Ideas more terrible than all before, since those were past, and these seemingly as certain. Beside, to add to our Distress, the Tide was driving in, and consequently must drive us fast to visible Destruction. A State so evident, that one of our Sailors, whom great Experience had render"d more sensible of our present Danger, was preparing to save one, by lashing himself to the main Mast, against the expected Minute of Desolation. He was about that melancholy Work, in utter Despair of any better Fortune, when, as loud as ever he could bawl, he cry"d out, _a Point, a Point of Wind_. To me, who had had too much of it, it appear"d like the Sound of the last Trump; but to the more intelligent Crew, it had a different Sound. With Vigour and Alacrity they started from their Prayers, or their Despair, and with all imaginable Speed, unlash"d the Rudder, and hoisted all their Sails.
Never sure in Nature did one Minute produce a greater Scene of Contraries. The more skilful Sailors took Courage at this happy Presage of Deliverance. And according to their Expectation did it happen; that heavenly Point of Wind deliver"d us from the Jaws of those _Breakers_, ready open to devour us; and carrying us out to the much more wellcome wide Sea, furnished every one in the Ship with Thoughts, as distant as we thought our Danger.
We endeavoured to make _Port Pa.s.sage_; but our Ship became unruly, and would not answer her Helm; for which Reason we were glad to go before the Wind, and make for the Harbour of _Saint Jean de Luz_. This we attain"d without any great Difficulty, and to the Satisfaction of all, Sailors as well as Pa.s.sengers, we there cast Anchor, after the most terrible Storm (as all the oldest Sailors agreed) and as much Danger as ever People escap"d.
Here I took notice, that the Sailors buoy"d up their Cables with Hogsheads; enquiring into the Reason of which, they told me, that the Rocks at the Bottom of the Harbour were by Experience found to be so very sharp, that they would otherwise cut their Cables asunder. Our Ship was obliged to be drawn up into the Dock to be refitted; during which, I lay in the Town, where nothing of Moment, or worth reciting, happen"d.
I beg Pardon for my Errors; the very Movements of Princes must always be considerable, and consequently worth Recital. While the Ship lay in the Dock, I was one Evening walking upon the Bridge, with the little Island near it, (which I have before spoke of) and had a little _Spanish_ Dog along with me, when at the further End I spy"d a Lady, and three or four Gentlemen in Company; I kept on my Pace of Leisure, and so did they; but when I came nearer, I found they as much out number"d me in the Dog, as they did in the human Kind. And I soon experienced to my Sorrow, that their Dogs, by their Fierceness and Ill-humour, were Dogs of Quality; having, without Warning, or the least Declaration of War, fallen upon my little Dog, according to pristine Custom, without any honourable Regard to Size, Interest or Number. However the good Lady, who, by the Privilege of her s.e.x, must be allow"d the most competent Judge of Inequalities, out of an Excess of Condescension and Goodness, came running to the Relief of oppressed poor _Tony_; and, in courtly Language, rated her own oppressive Dogs for their great Incivility to Strangers. The Dogs, in the Middle of their insulting Wrath, obey"d the Lady with a vast deal of profound Submission; which I could not much wonder at, when I understood, that it was a Queen Dowager of _Spain_, who had chid them.
Our Ship being now repaired, and made fit to go out again to Sea, we left the Harbour of _Saint Jean de Luz_, and with a much better Pa.s.sage, as the last Tempest was still dancing in my Imagination, in ten Days"
Sail we reach"d _Dover_. Here I landed on the last Day of _March_, 1713 having not, till then, seen or touch"d _English_ Sh.o.a.r from the Beginning of _May_, 1705.
I took Coach directly for _London_, where, when I arriv"d, I thought my self transported into a Country more foreign, than any I had either fought or pilgrimag"d in. Not foreign, do I mean, in respect to others, so much as to it self. I left it, seemingly, under a perfect Unanimity: The fatal Distinctions of _Whig_ and _Tory_ were then esteemed meerly nominal; and of no more ill Consequence or Danger, than a Bee robb"d of its Sting. The national Concern went on with Vigour, and the prodigious Success of the Queen"s Arms, left every Soul without the least Pretence to a Murmur. But now on my Return, I found them on their old Establishment, perfect Contraries, and as unlikely to be brought to meet as direct Angles. Some arraigning, some extolling of a Peace; in which Time has shown both were wrong, and consequently neither could be right in their Notions of it, however an over prejudic"d Way of thinking might draw them into one or the other. But _Whig_ and _Tory_ are, in my Mind, the compleatest Paradox in Nature, and yet like other Paradoxes, old as I am, I live in Hope to see, before I die, those seeming Contraries perfectly reconcil"d, and reduc"d into one happy Certainty, the Publick Good.
Whilst I stay"d at _Madrid_, I made several Visits to my old Acquaintance General _Mahoni_. I remember that he told me, when the Earl of _Peterborow_ and he held a Conference at _Morvidro_, his Lordship used many Arguments to induce him to leave the _Spanish_ Service.
_Mahoni_ made several Excuses, especially that none of his Religion was suffer"d to serve in the _English_ Army. My Lord reply"d, That he would undertake to get him excepted by an Act of Parliament. I have often heard him speak with great Respect of his Lordship, and was strangely surprized, that after so many glorious Successes he should be sent away.
He was likewise pleased to inform me, that at the Battle of _Saragoza_, "twas his Fortune to make some of our Horse to give way, and he pursued them for a considerable time; but at his Return, he saw the _Spanish_ Army in great Confusion: But it gave him the Opportunity of attacking our Battery of Guns; which he performed with great Slaughter, both of Gunners and Matrosses: He at the same time inquired, who "twas that commanded there in chief. I informed him "twas Col. _Bourguard_, one that understood the Oeconomy of the Train exceeding well. As for that, he knew nothing of; but that he would vouch, he behaved himself with extraordinary Courage, and defended the Battery to the utmost extremity, receiving several Wounds, and deserved the Post in which he acted. A Gentleman who was a Prisoner at _Gualaxara_, informed me, that he saw King _Philip_ riding through that Town, being only attended with one of his Guards.
_Saragoza_, or _Caesar Augusta_, lies upon the River _Ebro_, being the Capital of _Arragon_; "tis a very ancient City, and contains fourteen great Churches, and twelve Convents. The Church of the Lady of the _Pillar_ is frequented by Pilgrims, almost from all Countries; "twas anciently a Roman Colony.
_Tibi laus, tibi honor, tibi sit gloria, O gloriosa Trinitas, quia tu dedisti mihi hanc opportunitatem, omnes has res gestas recordandi. Nomen tuum sit benedictum, per saecula saeculorum. Amen._
_FINIS_