We had reach"d Saint _Jago_, a small Village about midway between _Valencia_ and _Requina_, when the Officer, just as he was got without the Town, resolving to take up his Quarters on the Spot, order"d the Mules to be unloaded. The Powder, which consisted of forty-five Barrels, was pil"d up in a Circle, and cover"d with Oil-cloth, to preserve it from the Weather; and though we had agreed to sup together at my Quarters within the Village, yet being weary and fatigu"d, he order"d his Field-Bed to be put up near the Powder, and so lay down to take a short Nap. I had scarce been at my Quarters an Hour, when a sudden Shock attack"d the House so violently, that it threw down Tiles, Windows, Chimneys and all. It presently came into my Head what was the Occasion; and as my Fears suggested so it prov"d: For running to the Door I saw a Cloud ascending from the Spot I left the Powder pitch"d upon. In haste making up to which, nothing was to be seen but the bare Circle upon which it had stood. The Bed was blown quite away, and the poor Lieutenant all to pieces, several of his Limbs being found separate, and at a vast Distance each from the other; and particularly an Arm, with a Ring on one of the Fingers. The Matrosses were, if possible, in a yet worse Condition, that is, as to Manglement and Laceration. All the Soldiers who were standing, and any thing near, were struck dead. Only such as lay sleeping on the Ground escap"d, and of those one a.s.sur"d me, that the Blast remov"d him several Foot from his Place of Repose. In short, enquiring into this deplorable Disaster, I had this Account: That a Pig running out of the Town, the Soldiers endeavour"d to intercept its Return; but driving it upon the Matrosses, one of them, who was jealous of its getting back into the Hands of the Soldiers, drew his Pistol to shoot it, which was the Source of this miserable Catastrophe. The Lieutenant carry"d along with him a Bag of Dollars to pay the Soldiers"
Quarters, of which the People, and the Soldiers that were say"d, found many; but blown to an inconceivable Distance.
With those few Soldiers that remain"d alive, I proceeded, according to my Order, to _Requina_; where, when I arriv"d, I gave General _Windham_ an Account of the Disaster at St. _Jago_. As such it troubled him, and not a little on account of the Disappointment. However, to make the best of a bad Market, he gave Orders for the forming of a Mine under an old Castle, which was part of the Wall. As it was order"d, so it was begun, more _in Terrorem_, than with any Expectation of Success from it as a Mine. Nevertheless, I had scarce began to frame the Oven of the Mine, when those within the Town desir"d to capitulate. This being all we could aim at, under the Miscarriage of our Powder at St. _Jago_ (none being yet arriv"d to supply that Defect) Articles were readily granted them; pursuant to which, that Part of the Garrison, which was compos"d of _Castilian_ Gentry, had Liberty to go wherever they thought best, and the rest were made Prisoners of War. _Requina_ being thus reduc"d to the Obedience of _Charles_ III a new rais"d Regiment of _Spaniards_ was left in Garrison, the Colonel of which was appointed Governor; and our Supply of Powder having at last got safe to us, General _Windham_ march"d his little Army to _Cuenca_.
_CUENCA_ is a considerable City and a Bishop.r.i.c.k; therefore to pretend to sit down before it with such a Company of Forragers, rather than an Army, must be plac"d among the hardy Influences of the Earl of _Peterborow_"s auspicious Administration. On the out Part of _Cuenca_ there stood an old Castle, from which, upon our Approach, they play"d upon us furiously: But as soon as we could bring two Pieces of our Cannon to bear, we answered their Fire with so good Success, that we soon oblig"d them to retire into the Town. We had rais"d a Battery of twelve Guns against the City, on their Rejection of the Summons sent them to come under the Obedience of King _Charles_; going to which from the old Castle last reduc"d, I receiv"d a Shot on the Toe of one of my Shoes, which carry"d that Part of the Shoe intirely away, without any further Damage.
When I came to that Battery we ply"d them warmly (as well as from three Mortars) for the s.p.a.ce of three Days, their Nights included; but observing, that in one particular House, they were remarkably busy; People thronging in and out below; and those above firing perpetually out of the Windows, I was resolv"d to have one Shot at that Window, and made those Officers about me take Notice of it. True it was, the Distance would hardly allow me to hope for Success; yet as the Experiment could only be attended with the Expence of a single Ball, I made it. So soon as the Smoak of my own Cannon would permit it, we could see Clouds of Dust issuing from out of the Window, which, together with the People"s crouding out of Doors, convinc"d the Officers, whom I had desir"d to take Notice of it, that I had been no bad Marksman.
Upon this, two Priests were sent out of the Place with Proposals; but they were so triflingly extravagant, that as soon as ever the General heard them, he order"d their Answer in a fresh Renewal of the Fire of both Cannon and Mortars. And it happen"d to be with so much Havock and Execution, that they were soon taught Reason; and sent back their Divines, with much more moderate Demands. After the General had a little modell"d these last, they were accepted; and according to the Articles of Capitulation, the City was that very Day surrender"d into our Possession. The Earl of _Duncannon"s_ Regiment took Guard of all the Gates; and King _Charles_ was proclaim"d in due Form.
The Earl of _Peterborow_, during this Expedition, had left _Valencia_, and was arriv"d at my Lord _Galway"s_ Camp at _Guadalaxara_; who for the Confederates, and King _Charles_ in particular, unfortunately was order"d from _Portugal_, to take the Command from a General, who had all along been almost miraculously successful, and by his own great Actions pay"d the Way for a safe Pa.s.sage to that his Supplanter.
Yet even in this fatal Place the Earl of _Peterborow_ made some Proposals, which, had they been embrac"d, might, in all Probability, have secur"d _Madrid_ from falling into the Hands of the Enemy; But, in opposition thereto, the Lord _Galway_, and all his _Portugueze_ Officers, were for forcing the next Day the Enemy to Battle. The almost only Person against it was the Earl of _Peterborow_; who then and there took the Liberty to evince the Impossibility of coming to an Engagement.
This the next Morning too evidently made apparent, when upon the first Motion of our Troops towards the River, which they pretended to pa.s.s, and must pa.s.s, before they could engage, they were so warmly saluted from the Batteries of the Enemy, and their small Shot, that our Regiments were forc"d to retire in Confusion to their Camp. By which Rebuff all heroical Imaginations were at present laid aside, to consider how they might make their Retreat to _Valencia_.
The Retreat being at last resolv"d on, and a Multiplicity of Generals rendering our bad Circ.u.mstances much worse, the Earl of _Peterborow_ met with a fortunate Reprieve, by Solicitations from the Queen, and Desires tantamount to Orders, that he would go with the Troops left in _Catalonia_ to the Relief of the Duke of _Savoy_. It is hardly to be doubted that that General was glad to withdraw from those Scenes of Confusion, which were but too visible to Eyes even less discerning than his. However, he forebore to prepare himself to put her Majesty"s Desires in execution, as they were not peremptory, till it had been resolv"d by the unanimous Consent of a Council of War, where the King, all the Generals and Ministers were present. That it was expedient for the Service that the Earl of _Peterborow_, during the Winter Season, should comply with her Majesty"s Desires, and go for _Italy_; since he might return before the opening of the Campaign, if it should be necessary. And return indeed he did, before the Campaign open"d, and brought along with him one hundred thousand Pounds from _Genoa_, to the great Comfort and Support of our Troops, which had neither Money nor Credit. But on his Return, that n.o.ble Earl found the Lord _Galway_ had been near as successful against him, as he had been unsuccessful against the Enemy. Thence was the Earl of _Peterborow_ recall"d to make room for an unfortunate General, who the next Year suffer"d himself to be decoy"d into that fatal Battle of _Almanza_.
The Earl of _Peterborow_, on his leaving _Valencia_, had order"d his Baggage to follow him to the Camp at _Guadalaxara_; and it arriv"d in our little Camp, so far safe in its way to the greater at _Guadalaxara_.
I think it consisted of seven loaded Waggons; and General _Windham_ gave Orders for a small Guard to escorte it; under which they proceeded on their Journey: But about eight Leagues from _Cuenca_, at a pretty Town call"d _Huette_, a Party from the Duke of _Berwick"s_ Army, with Boughs in their Hats, the better to appear what they were not (for the Bough in the Hat is the Badge of the _English_, as white Paper is the Badge of the _French_) came into the Town, crying all the way, _Viva Carlos Tercero, Viva_. With these Acclamations in their Mouths, they advanc"d up to the very Waggons; when attacking the Guards, who had too much deluded themselves with Appearances, they routed "em, and immediately plunder"d the Waggons of all that was valuable, and then march"d off.
The Noise of this soon reach"d the Ears of the Earl of _Peterborow_ at _Guadalaxara_. When leaving my Lord _Galways_ Camp, pursuant to the Resolutions of the Council of War, with a Party only of fourscore of _Killigrew"s_ Dragoons, he met General _Windham"s_ little Army within a League of _Huette_, the Place where his Baggage had been plunder"d. The Earl had strong Motives of Suspicion, that the Inhabitants had given Intelligence to the Enemy; and, as is very natural, giving way to the first Dictates of Resentment, he resolv"d to have lay"d the Town in Ashes: But when he came near it, the Clergy and Magistrates upon their Knees, disavowing the Charge, and a.s.serting their Innocence, prevail"d on the good Nature of that generous Earl, without any great Difficulty, to spare the Town, at least not to burn it.
We march"d however into the Town, and that Night took up our Quarters there; and the Magistrates, under the Dread of our avenging our selves, on their part took Care that we were well supplied. But when they were made sensible of the Value of the Loss, which the Earl had sustain"d; and that on a moderate Computation it amounted to at least eight thousand Pistoles; they voluntarily presented themselves next Morning, and of their own accord offer"d to make his Lordship full Satisfaction, and that, in their own Phrase, _de Contado, in Ready Money_. The Earl was not displeas"d at their Offer; but generously made Answer, That he was just come from my Lord _Galway"s_ Camp at _Chincon_, where he found they were in a likelihood of wanting Bread; and as he imagin"d it might be easier to them to raise the Value in Corn, than in ready Money; if they would send to that Value in Corn to the Lord _Galway"s_ Camp, he would be satisfy"d. This they with Joy embrac"d, and immediately complied with.
I am apt to think the last Century (and I very much fear the Current will be as deficient) can hardly produce a parallel Instance of Generosity and true public Spiritedness; And the World will be of my Opinion, when I have corroborated this with another Pa.s.sage some Years after. The Commissioners for Stating the Debts due to the Army, meeting daily for that Purpose at their House in _Darby_ Court in _Channel Row_, I there mentioned to Mr. _Read_, Gentleman to his Lordship, this very just and honourable Claim upon the Government, as Monies advanced for the Use of the Army. Who told me in a little Time after, that he had mention"d it to his Lordship, but with no other Effect than to have it rejected with a generous Disdain.
While we stayed at _Huette_ there was a little Incident in Life, which gave me great Diversion. The Earl, who had always maintain"d a good Correspondence with the fair s.e.x, hearing from one of the Priests of the Place, That on the Alarm of burning the Town, one of the finest Ladies in all _Spain_ had taken Refuge in the Nunnery, was desirous to speak with her.
The Nunnery stood upon a small rising Hill within the Town; and to obtain the View, the Earl had presently in his Head this Stratagem; he sends for me, as Engineer, to have my Advice, how to raise a proper Fortification upon that Hill out of the Nunnery. I waited upon his Lordship to the Place, where declaring the Intent of our coming, and giving plausible Reasons for it, the Train took, and immediately the Lady Abbess, and the fair Lady, came out to make Intercession, That his Lordship would be pleas"d to lay aside that Design. The divine Oratory of one, and the beautiful Charms of the other, prevail"d; so his Lordship left the Fortification to be the Work of some future Generation.
From _Huette_ the Earl of _Peterborow_ march"d forwards for _Valencia_, with only those fourscore Dragoons, which came with him from _Chincon_, leaving General _Windham_ pursuing his own Orders to join his Forces to the Army then under the Command of the Lord _Galway_. But stopping at _Campilio_, a little Town in our Way, his Lordship had Information of a most barbarous Fact committed that very Morning by the _Spaniards_, at a small _Villa_, about a League distant, upon some _English_ Soldiers.
A Captain of the _English_ Guards (whose Name has slip"d my Memory, tho"
I well knew the Man) marching in order to join the Battalion of the Guards, then under the Command of General _Windham_, with some of his Soldiers, that had been in the Hospital, took up his Quarters in that little _Villa_. But on his marching out of it, next Morning, a Shot in the Back laid that Officer dead upon the Spot: And as it had been before concerted, the _Spaniards_ of the Place at the same Time fell upon the poor, weak Soldiers, killing several; not even sparing their Wives. This was but a Prelude to their Barbarity; their savage Cruelty was only whetted, not glutted. They took the surviving few; hurried and dragg"d them up a Hill, a little without the _Villa_. On the Top of this Hill there was a Hole, or Opening, somewhat like the Mouth of one of our Coal-Pits, down this they cast several, who, with hideous Shrieks and Cries, made more hideous by the Ecchoes of the Chasm, there lost their Lives.
This Relation was thus made to the Earl of _Peterborow_, at his Quarters at _Campilio_; who immediately gave Orders for to sound to Horse. At first we were all surpriz"d; but were soon satisfy"d, that it was to revenge, or rather, do Justice, on this barbarous Action.
As soon as we enter"d the _Villa_ we found that most of the Inhabitants, but especially the most Guilty, had withdrawn themselves on our Approach. We found, however, many of the dead Soldiers Cloaths, which had been convey"d into the Church, and there hid. And a strong Accusation being laid against a Person belonging to the Church, and full Proof made, that he had been singularly Industrious in the Execution of that horrid Piece of Barbarity on the Hill, his Lordship commanded him to be hang"d up at the Knocker of the Door.
After this piece of military Justice, we were led up to the fatal Pit or Hole, down which many had been cast headlong. There we found one poor Soldier alive, who, upon his throwing in, had catch"d fast hold of some impending Bushes, and sav"d himself on a little Jutty within the Concavity. On hearing us talk _English_ he cry"d out; and Ropes being let down, in a little Time he was drawn up; when he gave us an ample Detail of the whole Villany. Among other Particulars, I remember he told me of a very narrow Escape he had in that obscure Recess. A poor Woman, one of the Wives of the Soldiers, who were thrown down after him, struggled, and roared so much, that they could not, without all their Force, throw her cleaverly in the Middle; by which means falling near the Side, in her Fall she almost beat him from his Place of Security.
Upon the Conclusion of this tragical Relation of the Soldier thus saved, his Lordship gave immediate Orders for the Firing of the _Villa_, which was executed with due Severity: After which his Lordship march"d back to his Quarters at _Campilio_; from whence, two Days after, we arriv"d at _Valencia_, Where, the first Thing presented to that n.o.ble Lord, was all the Papers taken in the Plunder of his Baggage, which the Duke of _Berwick_ had generously order"d to be return"d him, without waste or opening.
It was too manifest, after the Earl"s arrival at this City, that the Alteration in the Command of the _English_ Forces, which before was only receiv"d as a Rumour, had deeper Grounds for Belief, than many of his Friends in that City could have wish"d. His Lordship had gain"d the Love of all by a Thousand engaging Condescensions; even his Gallantries being no way prejudicial, were not offensive; and though his Lordships did his utmost to conceal his Chagrin, the Sympathy of those around him made such Discoveries upon him, as would have disappointed a double Portion of his Caution. They had seen him un-elated under Successes, that were so near being unaccountable, that in a Country of less Superst.i.tion than _Spain_, they might almost have pa.s.s"d for miraculous; they knew full well, that nothing, but that Series of Successes had pav"d a Pa.s.sage for the General that was to supersede him; those only having removed all the Difficulties of his March from _Portugal_ to _Madrid_; they knew him the older General; and therefore not knowing, that in the Court he came from, Intrigue was too often the Soul of Merit, they could not but be amazed at a Change, which his Lordship was unwilling any body should perceive by himself.
It was upon this Account, that, as formerly, he treated the Ladies with b.a.l.l.s, and to pursue the Dons in their own Humour, order"d a _Tawridore_ or _Bull-Feast_. In _Spain_ no sort of public Diversions are esteemed equal with this. But the Bulls provided at _Valencia_, not being of the right Breed, nor ever initiated in the Mysteries, did not acquit themselves at all masterly; and consequently, did not give the Diversion, or Satisfaction expected. For which Reason I shall omit giving a Description of this Bull-Feast; and desire my Reader to suspend his Curiosity till I come to some, which, in the _Spanish_ Sense, were much more entertaining; that is, attended with much greater Hazards and Danger.
But though I have said, the Gallantries of the General were mostly political at least very inoffensive; yet there happen"d about this Time, and in this Place, a piece of Gallantry, that gave the Earl a vast deal of Offence and Vexation; as a Matter, that in its Consequences might have been fatal to the Interest of King _Charles_, if not to the _English_ Nation in general; and which I the rather relate, in that it may be of use to young Officers, and others; pointing out to them the Danger, not to say Folly, of inadvertent and precipitate Engagements, under unruly Pa.s.sions.
I have said before, that _Valencia_ is famous for fine Women. It indeed abounds in them; and among those, are great Numbers of Courtezans not inferior in Beauty to any. Nevertheless, two of our _English_ Officers, not caring for the common Road, however safe, resolv"d to launch into the deeper Seas, though attended with much greater Danger. Amours, the common Failing of that fair City, was the Occasion of this Accident, and two Nuns the Objects. It is customary in that Country for young People in an Evening to resort to the Grates of the Nunneries, there to divert themselves, and the Nuns, with a little pleasant and inoffensive Chit-chat. For though I have heard some relate a World of nauseous Pa.s.sages at such Conversations, I must declare, that I never saw, or heard any Thing unseemly; and therefore whenever I have heard any such from such Fabulists, I never so much wrong"d my Judgment as to afford them Credit.
Our two Officers were very a.s.siduous at the Grates of a Nunnery in this Place; and having there pitch"d upon two Nuns, prosecuted their Amours with such Vigour, that, in a little time, they had made a very great Progress in their Affections, without in the least considering the Dangers that must attend themselves and the Fair; they had exchang"d Vows, and prevail"d upon the weaker Vessels to endeavour to get out to their Lovers. To effect which, soon after, a Plot was lay"d; the Means, the Hour, and every thing agreed upon.
It is the Custom of that Nunnery, as of many others, for the Nuns to take their weekly Courses in keeping the Keys of all the Doors. The two Love-sick Ladies giving Notice to their Lovers at the Grate, that one of their Turns was come, the Night and Hour was appointed, which the Officers punctually observing, carry"d off their Prey without either Difficulty or Interruption.
But next Morning, when the Nuns were missing, what an Uproar was there over all the City? The Ladies were both of Quality; and therefore the Tidings were first carry"d to their Relations. They receiv"d the News with Vows of utmost Vengeance; and, as is usual in that Country, put themselves in Arms for that Purpose. There needed no great canva.s.sing for discovering who were the Aggressors: The Officers had been too frequent, and too publick, in their Addresses, to leave any room for question. Accordingly, they were complain"d of and sought for, but sensible at last of their past Temerity, they endeavour"d, and with a great deal of Difficulty perfected their Escape.
Less fortunate were the two fair Nuns; their Lovers, in their utmost Exigence, had forsaken them; and they, poor Creatures, knew not where to fly. Under this sad Dilemma they were taken; and, as in like Offences, condemn"d directly to the Punishment of _immuring_. And what greater Punishment is there on Earth than to be confin"d between four narrow Walls, only open at the Top; and thence to be half supported with Bread and Water, till the Offenders gradually starve to Death?
The Earl of _Peterborow_, though highly exasperated at the Proceedings of his Officers, in compa.s.sion to the unhappy Fair, resolv"d to interpose by all the moderate Means possible. He knew very well, that no one Thing could so much prejudice the _Spaniard_ against him, as the countenancing such an Action; wherefore he inveigh"d against the Officers, at the same time that he endeavour"d to mitigate in favour of the Ladies: But all was in vain; it was urg"d against those charitable Intercessions, that they had broke their Vows; and in that had broke in upon the Laws of the Nunnery and Religion; the Consequence of all which could be nothing less than the Punishment appointed to be inflicted. And which was the hardest of all, the nearest of their Relations most oppos"d all his generous Mediations; and those, who according to the common Course of Nature should have thank"d him for his Endeavours to be instrumental in rescuing them from the impending Danger, grew more and more enrag"d, because he oppos"d them in their Design of a cruel Revenge.
Notwithstanding all which the Earl persever"d; and after a deal of Labour, first got the Penalty suspended; and, soon after, by the Dint of a very considerable Sum of Money (a most powerful Argument, which prevails in every Country) sav"d the poor Nuns from immuring; and at last, though with great Reluctance, he got them receiv"d again into the Nunnery. As to the Warlike Lovers, one of them was the Year after slain at the Battle of _Almanza_; the other is yet living, being a Brigadier in the Army.
While the Earl of _Peterborow_ was here with his little Army of great Hereticks, neither Priests nor People were so open in their superst.i.tious Fopperies, as I at other times found them. For which Reason I will make bold, and by an Antichronism in this Place, a little antic.i.p.ate some Observations that I made some time after the Earl left it. And as I have not often committed such a Transgression, I hope it may be the more excusable now, and no way blemish my Memoirs, that I break in upon the Series of my Journal.
_VALENCIA_ is a handsome City, and a Bishop.r.i.c.k; and is considerable not only for the Pleasantness of its Situation and beautiful Ladies; but (which at some certain Times, and on some Occasions, to them is more valuable than both those put together) for being the Birth-place of Saint _Vincent_, the Patron of the Place; and next for its being the Place where _Santo Domingo_, the first Inst.i.tutor of the _Dominican_ Order had his Education. Here, in honour of the last, is a s.p.a.cious and very splendid Convent of the _Dominicans_. Walking by which, I one Day observ"d over the Gate, a Figure of a man in stone; and near it a Dog with a lighted Torch in his Mouth. The Image I rightly enough took to intend that of the Saint; but inquiring of one of the Order, at the Gate, the Meaning of the Figures near it, he very courteously ask"d me to walk in, and then entertain"d me with the following Relation:
When the Mother of _Santo Domingo_, said that Religious, was with Child of that future Saint, she had a Dream which very much afflicted her. She dreamt that she heard a Dog bark in her Belly; and inquiring (at what Oracle is not said) the Meaning of her Dream, she was told, _That that Child should bark out the Gospel_ (excuse the Bareness of the Expression, it may run better in _Spanish_; tho", if I remember right, _Erasmus_ gives it in _Latin_ much the same Turn) _which should thence shine out like that lighted Torch_. And this is the Reason, that wherever you see the Image of that Saint, a Dog and a lighted Torch is in the Group.
He told me at the same time, that there had been more Popes and Cardinals of that Order than of any, if not all the other. To confirm which, he led me into a large Gallery, on each Side whereof he shew"d me the Pictures of all the Popes and Cardinals that had been of that Order; among which, I particularly took Notice of that of Cardinal _Howard_, great Uncle to the present Duke of _Norfolk_. But after many _Encomiums_ of their Society, with which he interspers"d his Discourse, he added one that I least valu"d it for; That the sole Care and Conduct of the Inquisition was intrusted with them.
Finding me attentive, or not so contradictory as the _English_ Humour generally is, he next brought me into a fair and large Cloister, round which I took several Turns with him; and, indeed, The Place was too delicious to tire, under a Conversation less pertinent or courteous than that he entertain"d me with. In the Middle of the Cloister was a small but pretty and sweet Grove of Orange and Lemon-trees; these bore Fruit ripe and green, and Flowers, all together on one Tree; and their Fruit was so very large and beautiful, and their Flowers so transcendently odoriferous, that all I had ever seen of the like Kind in _England_ could comparatively pa.s.s only for Beauty in Epitome, or Nature imitated in Wax-work. Many Flocks also of pretty little Birds, with their chearful Notes, added not a little to my Delight. In short, in Life I never knew or found three of my Senses at once so exquisitely gratify"d.
Not far from this, Saint _Vincent_, the Patron, as I said before, of this City, has a Chapel dedicated to him. Once a Year they do him Honour in a sumptuous Procession. Then are their Streets all strow"d with Flowers, and their Houses set off with their richest Tapestries, every one strives to excel his Neighbour in distinguishing himself by the Honour he pays to that Saint; and he is the best Catholick, as well as the best Citizen, in the Eye of the _religious_, who most exerts himself on this Occasion.
The Procession begins with a Cavalcade of all the Friars of all the Convents in and about the City. These walk two and two with folded Arms, and Eyes cast down to the very Ground, and with the greatest outward Appearance of Humility imaginable; nor, though the Temptation from the fine Women that fill"d their Windows, or the rich Tapestries that adorn"d the Balconies might be allow"d sufficient to attract, could I observe that any one of them all ever mov"d them upwards.
After the Friars is borne, upon the Shoulders of twenty Men at least, an Imagine of that Saint of solid Silver, large as the Life; It is plac"d in a great Chair of Silver likewise; the Staves that bear him up, and upon which they bear him, being of the same Metal. The whole is a most costly and curious Piece of Workmanship, such as my Eyes never before or since beheld.
The Magistrates follow the Image and its Supporters, dress"d in their richest Apparel, which is always on this Day, and on this Occasion, particularly sumptuous and distinguishing. Thus is the Image, in the greatest Splendor, borne and accompany"d round that fine City; and at last convey"d to the Place from whence it came: And so concludes that annual Ceremony.
The _Valencians_, as to the Exteriors of Religion, are the most devout of any in _Spain_, though in common Life you find them amorous, gallant, and gay, like other People; yet on solemn Occasions there shines out-right such a Spirit as proves them the very Bigots of Bigotry: As a Proof of which a.s.sertion, I will now give some Account of such Observations, as I had time to make upon them, during two _Lent_ Seasons, while I resided there.
The Week before the _Lent_ commences, commonly known by the Name of _Carnaval Time_, the whole City appears a perfect _Bartholomew_ Fair; the Streets are crouded, and the Houses empty; nor is it possible to pa.s.s along without some Gambol or Jack-pudding Trick offer"d to you; Ink, Water, and sometimes Ordure, are sure to be hurl"d at your Face or Cloaths; and if you appear concern"d or angry, they rejoyce at it, pleas"d the more, the more they displease; for all other Resentment is at that time out of Season, though at other times few in the World are fuller of Resentment or more captious.
The younger Gentry, or Dons, to express their Gallantry, carry about them Egg-sh.e.l.ls, fill"d with Orange or other sweet Water, which they cast at Ladies in their Coaches, or such other of the fair s.e.x as they happen to meet in the Streets.
But after all, if you would think them extravagant to Day, as much transgressing the Rules of common Civility, and neither regarding Decency to one another, nor the Duty they owe to Almighty G.o.d; yet when _Ash-Wednesday_ comes you will imagine them more unaccountable in their Conduct, being then as much too excessive in all outwards Indications of Humility and Repentance. Here you shall meet one, bare-footed, with a Cross on his Shoulder, a Burden rather fit for somewhat with four Feet, and which his poor Two are ready to sink under, yet the vain Wretch bears and sweats, and sweats and bears, in hope of finding Merit in an a.s.s"s Labour.
Others you shall see naked to their Wastes, whipping themselves with Scourges made for the Purpose, till the Blood follows every Stroke; and no Man need be at a Loss to follow them by the very Tracks of Gore they shed in this frentick Perambulation. Some, who from the Thickness of their Hides, or other Impediments, have not Power by their Scourgings to fetch Blood of themselves, are follow"d by Surgeons with their Lancets, who at every Turn, make use of them, to evince the Extent of their Patience and Zeal by the Smart of their Folly. While others, mingling Amour with Devotion, take particular Care to present themselves all macerated before the Windows of their Mistresses; and even in that Condition, not satisfy"d with what they have barbarously done to themselves, they have their Operators at hand, to evince their Love by the Number of their Gashes and Wounds; imagining the more Blood they lose, the more Love they shew, and the more they shall gain. These are generally Devoto"s of Quality; though the Tenet is universal, that he that is most b.l.o.o.d.y is most devout.
After these Street-Exercises, these ostentatious Castigations are over, these Self-sacrificers repair to the great Church, the bloodier the better; there they throw themselves, in a Condition too vile for the Eye of a Female, before the Image of the Virgin _Mary_; though I defy all their Race of Fathers, and their infallible holy Father into the Bargain, to produce any Authority to fit it for Belief, that she ever delighted in such sanguinary Holocausts.
During the whole Time of _Lent_, you will see in every Street some Priest or Frier, upon some Stall or Stool, preaching up Repentance to the People; and with violent Blows on his Breast crying aloud, _Mia Culpa, mia maxima Culpa_, till he extract reciprocal Returns from the Hands of his Auditors on their own b.r.e.a.s.t.s.
When _Good Friday_ is come they entertain it with the most profound Show of Reverence and Religion, both in their Streets and in their Churches.
In the last, particularly, they have contriv"d about twelve a-Clock suddenly to darken them, so as to render them quite gloomy. This they do to intimate the Eclipse of the Sun, which at that time happen"d. And to signify the Rending of the Vail of the Temple, you are struck with a strange artificial Noise at the very same Instant.