Mission Furniture.
by H. H. Windsor.
AN OAK BUFFET
[Ill.u.s.tration: Finished Buffet]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Buffet]
The accompanying sketch and detail drawing show a design of a buffet wherein refinement of outline and harmony of details are conspicuously regarded. Quarter-sawed oak is the most suitable wood for this handsome piece of mission furniture. The material should be ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Following is a list of the stock needed:
2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 47-3/4 in.
2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 45-1/2 in.
4 rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 50-1/2 in.
2 end rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in.
4 end rails, 3/4 by 4 by 18-1/2 in.
4 pieces for end panel, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21 in.
2 panels, 3/8 by 12 by 21 in.
1 top board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.
1 back board, 3/4 by 11-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.
1 shelf board, 3/4 by 2 by 46 in.
2 brackets, 1 by 2 by 7-3/4 in.
4 pieces for doors, 3/4 by 4 by 11 in.
2 panels, 3/8 by 11 by 17-1/2 in.
1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 8 by 22-1/2 in.
1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in.
1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7 by 22-1/2 in.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 bottom board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.; soft wood.
2 part.i.tions (several pieces), 3/4 by 20 by 24-3/4 in.
2 front pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.
2 back pieces. 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.; soft wood.
2 side pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in.; soft wood.
1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 25 by 46 in.
1 mirror frame (to suit mirror).
X/
Start to work on the four posts by squaring them up to the proper length in pairs and beveling the tops as shown. Clamp all four pieces on a flat surface with the bottom ends even, then lay out the mortises for the rails and panels on all four pieces at once with a try-square. This insures getting the mortises all the same height. The back posts also have a mortise cut in them at the top for the back board as shown. Lay out the tenons on the ends of the front and back rails in the same manner. Cut them to fit the mortises in the posts, also rabbet the back rails for the backing. Cut tenons on the end rails and rabbet them and the side pieces for the panels.
Lay out the top and bottom boards to the proper size and notch the corners to fit about the posts. These boards are fastened to the 1-1/2-in. square rails with dowels and glue. They can now be glued together and set away to dry. The top board is of oak, and be sure to get the best side up, while the bottom one can be made of soft wood if desired.
The part.i.tions are made of several boards glued together. Be careful to get an oak board on the outer edge. The drawer slides are set into the part.i.tions as shown and are fastened in place with screws from the inside.
The top back board has a tenon on each end that fits into the mortises in the back posts and is rounded at the top as shown. The shelf is also rounded at the ends and is fastened to the back with screws.
A plate gla.s.s mirror should be provided for the back. This is fitted to the back board as shown, then the brackets put up at the ends of the mirror frame.
The main parts are now ready to be a.s.sembled and glued together. Before applying any glue, see that all the joints fit together perfectly. The end rails and the panels are glued together first and allowed to dry. Be very careful to get the parts clamped together perfectly square and straight, else you will have trouble later on. When these ends are dry slip them on the tenons on the front and back rails which are already fastened to the top and bottom boards.
The back board and the part.i.tions must be in place when this is done.
Pin and glue the joints and clamp the whole together square and leave to dry.
The doors are now made by mortising the top and bottom pieces to take the 3/8-in. panel which is glued in place. The drawers are made as shown in the sketch. The front board should be oak, but the remainder can be made of soft wood. The joints are nailed and glued. Suitable hinges for the doors and handles for the drawers should be provided. Antique copper tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs look very well with this style of furniture and can be secured at most any hardware store.
The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Sc.r.a.pe all surplus glue from about the joints, as stain will not take where there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper, then apply the stain you like best. This can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.
OAK STAIN
An easy and at the same time a good way to stain oak in imitation of the fumed effect, is to boil catechu in the proportion of 1/4 lb. to 6 lb.
of water, after which cool and strain. Apply this to the wood, and when dry treat with a solution of bichromate of potash in the same proportion as with the catechu. Bichromate of potash alone in water will give a good stain. A solution of 2 oz. of pearl ash and 2 oz. of potash mixed in a quart of water makes a good stain. Potash solution darkens the wood, and when applied very strong will produce an almost ebon hue, due to what we might describe as the burning of the wood fiber.
A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK
The hall clock shown in the ill.u.s.tration should be made of plain oak.
The following pieces will be needed to make it:
2 back posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 81 in., S-4-S.
2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 44 in., S-4-S.
10 front and back horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 15 in., S-4-S.
10 side horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
1 face, 3/8 by 14 by 14 in., S-4-S.
FRONT DOORS
4 rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-4-S.
4 stiles, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 11 in., S-4-S.
4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 15 in., S-4-S.
2 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.
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